Roadboys Travels

The Best Views of The Golden Gate

2012-01-30T21:16:00.006-07:00

Profound Ground: Oakland's Mountain View Cemetery and Chapel of the Chimes

Growing up in the East Bay there were certain rituals we observed every year. Watching the fireworks over Lake Merritt. The Alameda County Fair in "P" town (Pleasanton). A bag filled with chiliburgers from a Foster's Freeze. Or, my favorite, an exquisitely rich jersey sundae from Fenton's Creamery.

On New Year's it might be Boz Scagg's concert at the Paramount. At Christmas there was the annual trip to San Francisco to see "The Tree" in the City of Paris department store. In Oakland there were the Christmas lights strung from house to house on Piccardy Lane. Downtown there was the holiday window display at Capwell's.

And we always returned to see the amazing snow filled Christmas tableau presented on the grounds of the Mountain View Cemetery at the end of Piedmont Avenue.

Sadly, many of these traditions now just exist as memories.

This weekend I made a day trip back to Oakland to visit a favored aunt and friends. While there Miss M and I went to have a sandwich and some ice cream at Fenton's Creamery on Piedmont Ave. Well, as usual, there was no parking anywhere nearby, so we drove up Piedmont Ave, and found ourselves parking in front of the Chapel of the Chimes. We figured the walk back to Fenton's would be nice.

We never made it. The amazing smell from the Local Cafe intercepted us instead. We were rewarded with a warm spinach salad filled with black trumpet mushrooms, and topped with crunchy baked proscuito. I may cry.

Since we were already parked, and I have many relatives resting permanently in both the Chapel of the Chimes and the Mountain View Cemetery, I asked Miss M if it would creep her out too much to visit each.

What a nice day it turned out to be. First off, you have to understand that the original Chapel of the Chimes Columbarium was designed in 1926 by Julia Morgan.

Ms. Morgan was the first woman to obtain a degree in civil engineering from Cal Berkeley. She was the first woman to graduate from the Ecole des Beaux-Artes in Paris. And, ultimately, she was the first woman to be licensed as an architect in California. Her most famous commission undoubtedly is William Randolph Hearst's Castle.

While, certainly not among her most famous commissions, the Chapel of the Chimes is certainly one of the loveliest and best preserved. She planned the Columbarium as a series of small, perfectly illuminated, little spaces.

Intimate Moorish Style Spaces

Filled With Natural Light

Many of the Urns Look Like Books

Just next door and climbing the hills behind the Chapel of the Chimes is the Mountain View Cemetery.

The cemetery was planned in 1863 by Frederick Law Olmsted (the father of American Landscape Architecture) whose credits include: New York's Central Park, Golden Gate Park, Stanford University, and Chicago's 1893 Columbian Exposition.

According to the Cemetery website:

"Olmsted took a unique approach to Mountain View Cemetery. His park cemetery integrated the Parisian grand monuments and broad avenues. Olmsted also drew on a popular philosophy of the times, American Transcendentalism, to help shape his vision of the cemetery. American Transcendentalism embodied Asian philosophy, which believed that all of nature flows from the same wellspring, that is, trees and flowers, water and air — and man — are part of nature."

At the base of the hill he placed straight "boulevards". He laced the hills with curved lanes and paths.

Mountain View has arguably has one of the best views of the Golden Gate in the entire Bay Area. It is also the final resting place for many of the most famous families in the Bay Area. In fact one entire section of the cemetery is referred to as Millionaire's Row.

Opened just 14 years after California's Gold Rush, this cemetery is old enough to house marvelous statuary.

An Angel Contemplating Heaven

Midway up the Hill

Offerings Left With The Angel

to Assure Good Luck

Another Angel

Guarding the Bradbury Crypt

on Millionaire's Row

Domingo Ghirardelli

San Francisco's Chocolate King

Warren Bechtel

Founder of the Bechtel Corporation

The Mariner's Guardian

Points To Heaven

Keeping Vigil of the San Francisco Bay

This cemetery is final resting place for Charles Crocker (railroad and banking), James Folger (coffee), Henry J. Kaiser (steel and aluminum), Frances Marion "20 Mule Team Borax" Smith, numerous artists, writers, engineer's, physicians, educators, governor's and civil war generals, and finally Bernard Maybeck and Julia Morgan.

Whether it is The Bonaventure Cemetery in Savannah (former home to The Bird Girl statue from Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil and where John Muir chose to sleep for six nights while passing through Savannah), the Hollywood Forever Cemetery in LA, or the Pere-Lachaise in Paris, a visit to a great city sometime's justifiably includes a slow stroll in a great cemetery.

We eventually got our scoops of Fenton's Ice Cream minus the parking issues at their stand in the Oakland Airport!

Arriving In Style

2012-01-22T01:20:00.009-07:00

The View From the Hood

When I was a kid, nearly every Sunday night included dinner at my grandmothers. After the dishes were cleared, washed and put away I staked out a chunk of the shag carpet in front of her huge RCA console TV. The television was built of real wood. In those days a television was as much a piece of furniture as a china cabinet.

Assuming the vertical hold was working, and the bunny ears were aimed just so, that beast would deliver an hour of The Wonderful World of Disney followed by Bonanza or Gunsmoke.

I would be transfixed whenever Walt Disney described some amazing new attraction being built at his magic kingdom in Anaheim. Then, as I got older, he'd showcase the amazing "world" his imagineers were dreaming up in central Florida. Yeah, I'm old.

Whatever we watched, somewhere between Walt and our weekly fix about the "Old West" Dinah Shore would belt out "Seeeeee The USA In Your Chevrolet!"

Travel, in those days, whether camping, visiting relatives, or going to Disneyland, always involved driving. It was too expensive to fly.

I can remember driving for hours in the back of my dad's 2-door 1960 Impala. I loved that car. It had a real back seat, one that three adults could share without having thighs in a vice. It also extended well beyond the curvature of the back window so when I leaned back I could gaze straight up at the sky. During the day I'd trace the long airplane contrails slicing desert skies. At night I'd soak up the swirls of stars in a jet black sky.

We didn't measure status by personal computers, Dr. Dre headsets, or smart phones. Cars were our primary family status symbols. A Buick was a step up from a Chevrolet. A Mercury was a step up from a Ford. Besides our homes, the family car was our most important possession. Thunderbirds, Corvettes, Imperials, Cadillacs and Lincoln's were the cars rich people drove.

Cars held the key to our freedom. They were trimmed in acres of chrome. They rolled on fat whitewall tires and culminated in increasingly huge tailfins. Inside, they had big bench seats or sculpted buckets (without headrests), the dashboard might be steel or upholstered, but never plastic. We monitored our speed, fuel consumption, and radiator temperature with big gauges set in chrome instrument clusters.

And on their hoods, or "bonnet" if you're an Anglophile, was a hood ornament.

Now a January tradition for Roadboy is a day spent at one of Arizona's big collector car auctions where I join thousands of others in admiration of what cars used to be.

And, this year, I decided to focus on the amazing sculptures that used to grace their hoods.

Here are some for you to enjoy! If you want more detail just click 'em!

I realize that technologically today's cars are much better than the cars of my childhood. They are safer, cleaner, and more efficient. They drive much more precisely, are quiet, and feature symphony hall quality sound systems.

But today's plastic cars are boring. Most look pretty much the same. It is hard to feel any real passion for them.

We reserve passion for cars that touch our souls. Cars like this 1947 Bentley Mark VI....

What will today's and tomorrow's generations eventually gather to admire? Will it be examples of old computers? Old Playtstation's? Nintendo's?

Not.

Roadboy's Travels © 2012

Here's to 2012!

2012-01-10T23:51:00.008-07:00

Another New Year Begins

Every new year ushers in many traditions.

In mid September one of my colleague's used to stop eating at restaurants, going to movies, and participating in virtually anything that was fiscally discretionary. His goal was to assure that he'd begin each new year debt free.

It seems like everyone has made a New Years diet or fitness resolution at least once in their life. Those are frequently found decomposing in life's dumpster a week or two later.

Until this very post only close friends and family knew that I use New Years Day to update a life "timeline". It is (geekily) maintained in Microsoft Excel. It suggests (anticipates) various future key milestones in my life.

Year in and year out graduations, professional goals, and all my major travel aspirations are faithfully entered in the timeline. I also take time to cherish past achievements (such as a family trips all over the globe.)

In the past few years, a number of the milestone's have rearranged themselves. Some milestone's are adjusted by God - like when a baby is born or a loved one passes away. Many of my anticipated milestones ended due to divorce. Yet, like any systemic change, one abrupt ending tends to open doors to something new.

So as I look at my timeline, I see a placeholder for a future 6 month sabbatical to live in Guadalajara. Note I say "live" in Mexico, not merely "visit" it. I want to bask in its cuisine, explore its architecture, enjoy its climate, and immerse myself in Spanish.

As I get older the cynical might deem my timeline a "bucket list" or worse yet, my own personal doomsday clock. But they are simply sad twits.

I know that when I memorialize a goal it is the first step to making it real.

It is sort of like the Childrens's book Oh The Places We Can Go! Please click that title by the way and be prepared for an amazing excursion. It will take you to many of the places I plan to go! Of course then click your back button and come right back here!

This year some of my milestone's moved around a bit. But there is still a slot for Buenos Aires, Mendoza, Iguaszu Falls, Chile and Patagonia. Carnival in Rio. Explorations of Knossos and Santorini are in there. Pompeii is there too, as is the return to Barcelona and a visit to Lisbon. A trip to England during Wimbledon has become very important to me.

A rail voyage on the Royal Scotsman is on the list. A trip from the rainforest treetops to the beaches of Costa Rica is there too.

Oh, and I plan to return to Hong Kong after a quarter century. Then there is Egypt's pyramids, the marvel of Petra, and the holy land.

A few years back I was gifted with the book "A Thousand Things to Do Before You Die". Sometimes I don't know where to start. But I do know better than to ever treat my goals and milestones carelessly.

And, of course, you are welcome to join me on my journey. Life is, after all, a series of single first steps.

May 2012 be a year when you make your own dreams come true.

Feliz Navidad

2011-12-23T12:43:00.010-07:00

Las Noches de las Luminarias

A Night of Candles and Magic

For 34 years Phoenicians have treasured a Christmas tradition of putting on warm coats and hats (yes even in Phoenix) and visiting our cherished Desert Botanical Garden (DBG) on one of a selected few evenings in December for the lighting of the luminarias.

For those not lucky enough to live in the Southwest a luminaria (or farolito) is a brown paper bag with a little sand in the bottom into which is nested a tea candle. We put them along foot paths, along fences and rooftops, down the driveway, and on just about any horizontal surface we can find. The candles replaced the earlier Native American tradition of building a bonfire in front of each home or pueblo on Christmas Eve. Some people cheat and use electrified versions (electrolitos.)

Anyone who has ever visited Santa Fe or Albuquerque's Old Town Plaza at Christmastime will never forget the smell of piñon burning and the soft warm glow of these jewels of the night.

For Phoenicians the tradition is well kept in many of our historic neighborhoods with street after street lined with the little sacks. But, the best place to enjoy them is the Desert Botanical Garden. Tickets for the few luminaria's' nights always sell out so plan well in advance. In years past you parked at Phoenix stadium and rode a bus into the garden after dark. Nowadays the festival illuminates over 3000 farolitos 23 nights in December. 4 nights are reserved for garden members. Although the event grows each year, it is still pure magic.

This year there were haunting Native American flautists, a blues band, handbell choristers, a bluegrass ensemble and traditional chorales throughout the garden. Desert bunnies peek from behind clumps of prickly pears. Dinner is available along with the usual warm holiday beverages.

Cacti are Specially Illuminated

Throughout The Garden

Chihuly's Giant Glass

Glows For Visitors Approaching The Garden

DesertBells Perform

Since the "Big Bugs" that David Rogers has created from found wood are presently on display in the garden, they have also been colorfully illuminated for Luminaria nights.

The Giant Driftwood "Big Bugs" Twinkle

Its beginning to look a lot like Christmas everywhere you go.....even here in the Sonoran Desert!

Best Wishes from Roadboy!

Roadboy's Travels © 2011

Thanksgiving in LA

2011-11-28T23:37:00.006-07:00

Piles of Leaves - Not!

To most of us Thanksgiving evokes recollections of family gatherings and tables full of comfort food. When I was a kid we'd get up, watch the Macy's parade, then pile into dad's buick wildcat and make the road trip to my cousins.

Once there we'd spend the day throwing frisbees and footballs. Then we'd move inside to play some board games. The whole time my uncle's big wooden RCA console TV would be flipping from one sporting event to another.

Then the food took over. It would start with deviled eggs and move on to the serious stuff. Turkey or ham would reside next to mashed potatoes, stuffing and an annual jello experiment (usually loosely interpreted from a recipe in Parade.) The meal would be finished up with syncopation of coffee being perked in a tall chrome percolator soon to be served with the pies; apple, cherry, pumpkin, and mince.

We'd then groan, sleep and wake up to see mountains of leftovers being wrapped in foil.

Nowadays my family has scattered like seeds in the wind. Without a matriarch demanding we all come together, we instead plan alternative holiday adventures with friends from church. This year we spent 3 days in Los Angeles.

Day One:

Thanksgiving itself was spent at Universal Studios. The day was a sunny 70°F. In a word; perfect. Crowds were pretty light netting short waits for even the best attractions.

Universal's Atlas Fountain and Mandatory Photostop

We found that Universal has a lot of renovation going on right now and some of the popular (but tired) attractions like Backdraft are now gone. Perhaps in recognition of its reduced state, they offered us a 13 month pass for the same price as their normal $77 one-day admission. Hey, that worked for me as Miss M and I can now plan to return in the spring to see the new Transformers attraction.

Inside the park were lots of shows, music, and the new King Kong in 3D attraction. It replaces the elaborate old mechanized King Kong attraction that was destroyed in the backlot fire a few years ago.

We finished up the day amid the lights of CityWalk. I stopped and watched the I-Fly skydivers. Next trip over I am going to fly.

I-Fly!

CityWalk is Ready for Christmas

We then went to have a turkey dinner at Dinah's near the Hughes Center.

Day Two:

After sleeping in on Black Friday the group assembled at the King's Hawaiian Bakery in Torrance for a full-on island style local boy breakfast; Char Sui on rice, Portuguese sweet bread french toast covered in coconut syrup. All washed down with a big glass of POG (passion, orange, guava) juice and Kona coffee. It was soooo good. Breakfast alone made the trip worthwhile.

After breakfast it was off to Hollywood and Highland. We window shopped, checked out all of the star's hand and footprints in the forecourt of the Chinese Theater and enjoyed the endless parade of ambulatory schizophrenia oozing along Hollywood Boulevard.

Sid Grauman's Iconic 1927 Era "Chinese" Theater

One of the 200 Hand and Footprints At Graumans

We stepped across the street to admire the exquisite detailing of the restored El Capitan Theater and the lobby of the oh-so-haunted (and very wilted) Hollywood Roosevelt hotel. We then tried to guess the authors of each of the life stories on the "Road to Hollywood" in the Hollywood and Highland's plaza.

The Ceiling of the Outer Lobby of the El Capitan

The Hollywood Roosevelt

Hollywood and Highland

The Road to Hollywood Snakes Around the Plaza

We were took in a matinee of the dazzling new Hollywood themed Cirque show called IRIS at the gorgeous Kodak Theater. Although we've enjoyed about a dozen Cirque productions over the years, I easily rate IRIS second only to the Beattle's Love at The Mirage.

Day Three:

On Saturday we slept in again (note the trend). After breakfast we made our way to The Grove / Farmer's Market to enjoy the street scene, shop, and have lunch. The Grove was totally decked out for the holidays and filled with families.

The Grove's Huge Tree

From the Farmer's Market we were off to Santa Monica to experience the 3rd Street Promenade at Sunset. It was filled with people. But it has gotten a bit edgy. There are still dozens of street performers (some that were darned good) surrounded by an armada of street people and panhandlers.

We parked at the renovated Santa Monica Place (the roof is now gone and the foodcourt is on three!) Once we found the food court we ate dinner.

Street Violin

Sunset Over the Pacific

From the Roof of Santa Monica Place

We ran out of time and did not get to the Hollywood Forever cemetery. And we found out that Paramount does not operate its VIP tour over Thanksgiving.

Guess we'll just have to return!

Love to all.

The Cosmopolitan

2011-11-22T22:01:00.014-07:00

No Cats, But What A View

A couple of weeks ago I walked through the new Cosmopolitan Hotel / Casino in Las Vegas. Like many mega casino / hotel's it is huge and appears to have been built using no discernable master plan.

But I also found its art collection and decor to be endearing. And I really like it's "Just The Right Amount of Wrong" advertising campaign with its uber cool music the Booty Swing by the Austrian remix artist Parov Stelar.

So this week when a business trip brought me back to Las Vegas, I decided to check in to the Cosmopolitan for a night. What clinched it was a low sunday night rate and finding out that it is now part of the new Marriott Autograph Collection.

The taxi drops you right at the registration lobby, which is nice (many Vegas hotels make you walk miles from cab to registration.) And oh what a lobby it is! It is simply a techno marvel that surrounds guests with lush, constantly changing, electronic imagery. While I was there it was falling leaves.

The Cosmopolitan's Registration Lobby

Is A Visual Knockout

(Click to See Leaves Falling)

It was Sunday so check-in was really quick. My front desk “co-star” (really, that is what they call their staff) immediately offered a handshake. It seemed so "Enterprise" rent-a-car. Note to the service industry; take it from your former Las Vegas resident Howard Hughes - handshakes in flu season = bad idea.

In recognition of my Marriott elite status, my co-star upgraded me to a room with a balcony. That was very nice since many of the Cosmopolitan's rooms have truly breathtaking views.

The View From A Room On The 25th Floor

While in the hotel elevator I found no herds of white cats as featured in their ads, just some nice visitors from Argentina and a very inebriated couple who got on the tower elevator by mistake. When the wife realized her mistake she stepped off. The husband stayed on announcing after the doors closed with a broad smile that "she’ll never find me now.”

Upon opening the door to my room I was dazzled. The room was huge and lovely but not too earth friendly with 16 lights burning and two big flat screen televisions lit to greet me when I walked in. Ironically each TV offered an interactive presentation of the Hotel’s “sustainability” program.

The toiletries were nice. The minibar selections were also awesome, some a bit kinky. My breakfast was comped (Marriott perk). Good thing too since the 2 egg, toast, and bacon breakfast was $29 on the room service card.

I needed to get some work done that required the internet. Alas the techno saavy Cosmopolitan internet was down. To determine that I had to figure out the surprisingly complex phone system. “Help” at the Cosmopolitan is obtained from a button labeled “Beck and Call”. Touching “Beck and Call” resulted in me being put on hold. When my nice “Beck and Call” co-star came on she relayed that they had no idea when the internet would actually work again.

With no internet, I went for a walk through the adjacent Crystals mall. Home to names like Balenciega, Harry Winston, Fendi, Kiton, Hermes, Prada, Van Clef / Arpels, and Jimmy Choo, buyers here define wretched excess.

Some of Crystal's Artwork

Crystal's Colorful Tornadoes

Just out the back door was the Aria Hotel. I was stunned by the elegance of this hotel. You enter it past a three story curving wall of cascading water. Inside, I found a hotel and casino that was very clearly organized.

Imagine that.

The Aria Hotel and Casino

Have a Happy Thanksgiving everyone! Roadboy is off to LA to see the new Cirque show in Hollywood.

The Eagles 35 Years Later

2011-11-10T04:50:00.010-07:00

The Long Road Out of Eden

On August 6, 1976 I led a car caravan of friends from Coeur d'Alene Idaho to Seattle Washington. We had tickets to see The Eagles and Linda Ronstadt perform at Seattle's (now imploded) Kingdome.

In retrospect it is amazing we all lived through the trip. I mean Dennis drove a Ford Pinto (no explosions thank goodness). I drove my dad's supercab pick-up with its homemade camper.

Most of my friends were just out of high school. We all worked together at Pete Clausen's new McDonalds in Coeur d'Alene. Many had never driven further than Spokane. Some had never been given permission to go more than 20 miles any direction.

The concert tickets were $14. The interior of the Kingdome was filled with reefer smoke. When the lights went down everyone lit and gently waived matches. The opening act was Linda Ronstadt. Her voice was angelic. After Linda there was a long gap and then The Eagles came out and were pumped. They played long, hard, and loud. The acoustics in the Kingdome were so bad I actually left the arena to listen from the outer walk ramps.

We didn't have money for motels, so after the show we simply started to drive back to Idaho. Somewhere near Snoqualmie Summit we pulled off the interstate and slept under an overpass in our cars and the camper.

When the sun came up we were cold and (most of us) smelled bad. But everyone knew we'd had a great adventure.

I miss everyone from that trip. Three weeks later I left Coeur d'Alene for college and never saw them again.

Fast forward.

This past weekend I joined friends from church that wanted to go see The Eagles at the MGM in Las Vegas. The show is the second to last stop on their 2011 "Long Road Out of Eden" tour.

In the cab driving to the MGM I noticed a fine white Rolls Royce stopped at the light next to our cab. I laughed at the old dude driving it. He was older than Methuselah, yet was sporting shoulder length white long hair. His face that left no doubt that he had inhaled over the years. And, just like our cab driver, Mr. Rolls was clearly upset at being stalled in traffic.

It was a reminder that no matter the price of your tires, everyone in life gets the green light at the same time.

When we got to the arena most of the audience was pretty old. We were mostly bald or grey haired. Some had walkers. Many rolled oxygen tanks.

The arena was (of course) smoke free. The Eagles started right on time. There was no Linda this time ;-(. The acoustics at the MGM were fine. I did not need the foam earplugs I brought.

As the concert began I realized the old dude driving the Rolls was Joe Walsh.

Voices were clear and strong. The music was tight. They played without a break for a little over 2 hours. They did two encores.

The concert was awesome.

Hotel California

One Hit After Another

Before the show I took my usual Vegas stroll. This time through the new Cosmopolitan Hotel (I love their current TV ads.) The exterior of the hotel was downright boring. The entrances are oddly placed. The roofline can only be described as peculiar. Signage is lame. The interior layout displays no coordinated planning at all.

But once inside the interior finishes, artwork, and overall vibe and "attitude" of the hotel is way cool. Staff is an eclectic mix of old and young all wearing black sportcoats. The place is fun. The Wicked Spoon buffet was also quite good.

A Cocktail Bar Resides Inside the Three Story Chandelier

Some of the Cosmopolitan's Art Collection

Cosmo is Home to Another Amazing All Saints Store

After the show I walked some more. When I reached the Ballagio its waters were choreographed to Frank Sinatra crooning "Luck Be A Lady Tonight". Life rarely offers 3 minutes of anything more perfect than that.

Luck Be A Lady Tonight

So, I offer thanks to the Eagles. You were wonderful. And this many years later, I extend a toast to all my friends in Cd'A, wherever life has taken you; "Salut"!

Roadboy's Travels © 2011

A Walk In Downtown Los Angeles

2011-11-04T23:46:00.008-07:00

From Blade Runner to a Flight of Angels

When someone says "Los Angeles" it always conjures up images of beaches and long rows of tall wispy palm trees. Some think Hollywood, to others its shopping on Melrose or people watching on Venice beach.

"LA" means something different to everyone.

Over the years I've returned to Los Angeles and its suburbs many times, mostly for business, frequently for fun. Rarely, however, have I spent much time downtown. I've made the occasional trip to Olvera Street and visited Little Tokyo for some mochi and once visited the Museum of Contemporary Art. But I've never really just walked around.

Yet, when I do explore downtown, I seem to find surprises everywhere. It is filled with wonderful places to sightsee, eat, absorb culture, even pray. And of course it is home to some wonderful architectural icons.

This week I attended a three day conference downtown. The conference was a tired rehash of uninspired thinking (I had to fight off sleep). But before, between, and after my conference I explored downtown Los Angeles.

My starting place was the conference hotel itself; the Los Angeles Biltmore Hotel (now part of the Millennium chain). Facing onto Pershing Square, the Biltmore opened in 1923 with 1500 guest rooms making it the largest hotel west of Chicago. It hosted the first eight Oscar ceremonies. It's Gold Room has hidden compartments where elite guests concealed their liquor during prohibition. It has been featured in dozens of movies including Hitchcock's Vertigo. President Kennedy accepted his presidential nomination here. Paramahansa Yogananda passed to the next world here.

Although its entrance now is kind of an ugly car tunnel, thankfully, most of its magnificent public spaces are intact.

The Spectacular Original Lobby

Facing Pershing Square

Next stop was the wonderful Los Angeles Public Library designed by Bertram Goodhue. LA Central is a mashup of Egyptian and Moorish styles that somehow works just fine. It is another of Goodhue's successful collaborations with architectural sculptor Lee Lawrie. The library opened in 1926 and is the third largest library in the US based on book and periodical holdings.

A Roadboy hint: Central has one of the best little gift shops in LA. It features a constantly changing selection of one-of-a-kind stuff at great prices. It is simply the perfect place to shop if you want to be a hero at Christmas.

LA's Downtown Library

Lee Lawrie's One Ton Globe Chandelier

Surrounded by 48 "State" Lights

From the library I was off to absorb perhaps America's most "noir" building; the 1893 Bradbury Building.

Here are some of the reasons to love this building:

1. The architect George Wyman, after repeatedly turning down the job, changed his mind after he had a "conversation" with his brother Mark. Slight wrinkle; his brother had been dead six years and the conversation took place using a planchette.

2. The French wrought iron work in the building was so wonderful it was chosen for display at Chicago's (White City) World's Fair before its installation.

3. The building has served as a set for countless movies, videos and television shows. The most famous probably being the rooftop climax in 1982's movie Blade Runner.

4. For years one of the doors upstairs had "Sam Spade Private Detective" etched in it.

5. In the telelvision show 77 Sunset Strip Efrem Zimbalist Jr. (yeah, I am that old...) had his office in the Bradbury.

6. Both Marvel and DC Comics have comics featuring the Bradbury (Marvel: The Order, DC: Human Target.) Marvel actually has offices in the building.

7. I'm a pushover for cage elevators. This building has two of them....

The Flanking Cage Elevators

A Huge Atrium

Perfect Terra Cotta

Amazing Wrought Iron

Upon leaving the Bradbury it was getting dark, so we opted to ride the 109 year old Angel's Flight Railway up Bunker Hill. Jack Webb in Dragnet once opined "for five cents, ride the shortest railway in the world". Well a few items to mention. It is now one block south of its original location and it now costs a quarter. It is short, but it is sweet and Jack Webb was always a stick in the mud.

The Top of Angel's Flight Railway

At the top of the railway we had a wonderful view of one of LA's most distinctive skyscrapers; formerly the Interstate Bank building, now it is the US Bank building.

The US Bank Building and it's Trademark "Crown"

With that I must catch some shuteye.

Day Two:
The next destinations downtown were new buildings - the curvalicious Disney Hall and the new Catholic Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels.

The Walt Disney Concert Hall is the new home to Los Angeles Philharmonic orchestra. The building, designed by Frank Gehry, took about 12 years to design and build. It rang up a breathtaking price - approaching $300,000,000. And that price was after the project was scaled back to be clad in metal instead of stone.

After all the noise and fury, the hall has been universally praised by performers and audiences for its superb acoustics. Disney Hall replaces Welton Becket's stately Dorothy Chandler Pavilion which was always plagued by poor acoustics.

Walt Disney Concert Hall

(2003)

The Dorothy Chandler Pavilion

(1964)

From the Music Center it was a short walk to the new Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels. New home of the Catholic Diocese of Los Angeles. It was built as a modern replacement the Cathedral of Saint Vibiana which was heavily damaged in the 1994 Northridge earthquake. Designed by Rafael Moneo it cost $250,000,000, unearthed a stunning amount of alabaster, and opened in 2002.

As with any monumental architecture, I found parts much to be admired (the interior and the stunning wall tapestries) and parts that were lacking (the lackluster exterior color, its hulking fortresslike mass, and its very confusing and totally unwelcome entry.)

The Interior

With its Amazing Pipe Organ

and Beautiful Wall Tapestries

One of John Nava's Stunning Tapestries

(This One is About 4 Stories High)

From here we toured LA's New Police Administration Building. The Building is filled with light and replaces the earthquake vulnerable Parker Center a few blocks east. Surprisingly we were told it could not be called the "Headquarters" since it was not built to California's stringent earthquake standards for Essential Service buildings. Lets see they replaced the old building because it was seismically vulnerable, then exploited a loophole in the building code to build the replacement building to a lessor standard? Odd priorities in my book.

When one reached the upper floors of the new Police Administration Building they are afforded perhaps the best view possible of LA's iconic City Hall.

Los Angeles City Hall

1928

Parkinson, Austin, and Albert C. Martin Sr.

Now pretty hungry our last stop was lunch at LA's Grand Central Market. It reminded me of Seattle's Pike Place Public Market, it has been serving fresh meat, produce, baked goods, and ice cream since 1917. It has sawdust floors and lots of neon. I love it.

The Grand Central Market

I had an awesome carne asada combo plate.

I know any trip to Southern California poses many options to compete for your time. If you have an afternoon, I suggest donning some comfy shoes and taking a walk around its amazing downtown.

Police Chief's, Occupy Chicago, and the Silver Streak

2011-10-25T22:19:00.008-07:00

Chicago's Welcome Mat

Everyone that knows me, knows I love Chicago. It is home to great buildings, great food and some of the best people anywhere.

This week I returned to Chicago for the International Association of Chief's Police (IACP) Convention. For law enforcement executives worldwide this is the biggie. They come to think out loud, network, lobby and shop.

IACP originated right here in Chicago when 51 Chief's came together at the famous "White City" World Exhibition in 1893. That was the wildly successful fair that attracted 27 million visitors during its run (for reference purposes - that was half the population of the United States in 1893).

This is the fair that introduced the world to George Ferris's amazing wheel, juicy fruit chewing gum and Pabst Blue Ribbon Beer - Roadboy's favorite "everyday" beer!

Now with 16,000 members from 94 countries, this is the definitive symposia for law enforcement executives from around the world. There are seminars, educational programs and an exhibition hall filled with every conceivable piece of equipment and software imaginable.

Need a Helicopter? Driving Simulator? Road Spikes? Radar Gun? Armored Car?

The culmination of the serious part of the convention was the Police Executive Research Forum's Town Hall Meeting were ideas flow from the most dazzling minds in modern policing. This year the focus was on reducing gun crimes. The discussion was animated, honest and unvarnished. It was also inspiring to hear pure passion from leaders like Commissioner Ramsey of Philadelphia as they focus on ways to make their communities safer.

The most fun part of the convention was the Host Chief's Party held in Chicago's Museum of Science and Industry. Built for the 1933 "Rainbow City" Century of Progress Worlds Fair, the museum is a marvel. It is big enough to house steam locomotives, the Burlington and Quincy Zephyr (otherwise known as the Silver Streak) and now features a new home for the German U505 U-Boat. This is the submarine that we secretly captured. The world, however, was led to believe we sunk it and all aboard were lost. The capture provided the Allie's an enigma machine to use to decode Germany's previously "unbreakable" Atlantic transmissions.

The U505

Hitler's Precious Enigma Coding / Decoding Machine

The First Streamline Zephyr

(Mom treasured the coin it smashed on its initial run behind her Quincy Apartment)

Since the weather was mostly beautiful. Roadboy did what he loves to do - walk. And what a walk it was.

Chicago was still warm and ablaze in flowers. And with winter seemingly minutes away, Chicago's sidewalks were full with people enjoying the last gasp of fall.

I ogled the fine cars and the historic water tower on the Gold Coast. Then headed south.

The Water Tower

Along the way was some dazzling window shopping, with stops in the Ted Baker shop and London's very cool AllSaints Spitalfield's clothing emporium. The clothes in this store are made to look old and worn. They look especially good on very slender people about 30 years younger than me and are available in black or grey.

AllSaints Spitalfields

We then came upon J. Seward Johnson's giant Marilyn in front of the Tribune Building. She replaces his equally huge take on Grant Wood's American Gothic, which resided here last year. While (clearly) no one is going to mistake this for fine art, there is some relevance in a City known for wind. Oh and for those keeping track (at least in the sculpture) Ms. Monroe has 5 toes on each foot....

The Seven Year Itch

We then made our way to Millennium Park and thousands and thousands of Chicagoans marching to express outrage at the justice system's failure to prosecute some of America's most dangerous criminals; Wall Street's unrepentant banking / brokerage executives.

Occupy Chicago

Once again, thanks Chicago!

Sunnyslope

2011-10-08T20:06:00.021-07:00

Phoenix's Most Eclectic Urban Village Hosts Artwalk

If you ventured north on Central Avenue in Phoenix at the turn of the century you'd run out of city well before Camelback Road. After that you'd pass what would soon become row after row of fragrant citrus orchards. And, if you journeyed much further you'd come to North Mountain.

The Central Avenue Sunnyslope Gateway Pylons

(The North Mountain Preserve is Beyond)

According to the historical timeline published by John C. Lincoln Hospital, residents started coming to North Mountain in 1903 when the city of Phoenix prohibited tent camps within its city limits.

Four years later retired architect (WR Norton) and his concert pianist wife built a house in a greasewood clearing at 8713 N. Central Avenue. They later built a subdivision they called "Sunnyslope" based on a remark their daughter made about how the morning sun washed North Mountain.

My Architectural Office

Resides Almost Directly on the Site of WR Norton's Estate

By the 1920's Sunnyslope was home to prospectors, beekeepers, and artists. Others were there for health reasons requiring the services of Sunnyslope's Desert Mission. Sunnyslope's role in health services culminated in the John C. Lincoln hospital in 1954. Today it is a superb forward thinking hospital and the major anchor of the Sunnyslope community.

John C. Lincoln - Saving Lives

Building Neighborhoods

In the meantime Sunnyslope earned a reputation for non-code compliant housing, poverty, ancient trailer parks, and drug dealing. It was written off by its neighbors to the south as just too poor and weird.

But a tireless core of community leaders never gave up on Sunnyslope. They fought every application for a liquor license, they grabbed public art projects right and left, they got drug dens bulldozed, and nurtured its schools.

Today, those efforts and Sunnyslope's proximity to downtown, great high school, relative affordability, and funkiness attracts families, professionals, teachers, artists, architects and chef's.

It has become an incubator for creativity in art, food and architecture. It is one of the few urban villages in Phoenix with almost no chain restaurants.

Sunnyslope Incubates Design

Into this mix comes the twice annual Artwalk in October and April. Artwalk now draws thousands of valley residents who walk up and down Central Avenue from the canal to Dunlap enjoying dozens of musicians and viewing the bounty of hundreds of artists.

Artwalk is Sunnyslope's finest hour. This year when the lights went out there were still hundreds of visitors filling Central Avenue.

Part of Sunnyslope's Artwalk

So come see what is happening at the end of the Bridle Path. The North mountain preserve offers a great place to ride bikes or walk. Its canals are great for blading.

And come hungry! There's amazing quesadillas and burgers at Corbin's. If you want the best sandwich you've ever tasted, its the prosciutto and brie confection at Timo's.

For breakfasts try Scramble. Burgers at the Burger Studio beat Five Guys any day. Arguably Phoenix's largest collection of tequila resides at Via De los Santos, and the hands down best family style Mexican food in Phoenix is served with love 6 days a week by the Tafoya family at El Bravo. For Greek food go to Greektown. It resides in an old Pizza Hut. Just tell George to make you something amazing. Maybe his rack of lamb or sauteed (never fried) calamari.

Oh, and forget Starbucks, we don't have one. We have Grinder's Coffee. Where Dennis roasts and grinds his own beans, and spouts his politics. His politics may be questionable, but his coffee is great. If you ask him for a venti, you'll get his look. His big cup is referred to as "serious". On a friday night he's likely to be on the patio playing the blues.

Great Food and Drink

Perfect Food Served in a Lovely Garden Setting

Some of Sunnyslope's Extensive Public Art Collection

Lots of businesses and services call Sunnyslope home. There's Karl's understated, yet amazing, european bakery and his daughter Christine's artisan chocolate shop is right next door. Looking for something fun to do on a saturday? Try a chocolate making class the first saturday of every month! If you need tires we got em. If you would like a meticulously restored vintage falcon or t-bird, two generations of Dottling's can fix you up. Italian Deli? It's Tony's. You can shop for appliances at B&B. Need a friend? The Humane Society delivers furry rescue's who will unconditionally love you.

B&B's Appliance's Homage to the Maytag Man

Seeking eternal peace? We've got you covered there too....

Really, How Does One Measure This?

It's edgy and funky.

I love edgy and funky.

It's Sunnyslope!

Seattle's Olympic Sculpture Park

2011-09-14T20:11:00.005-07:00

So Right!

Last week I had the good fortune of spending a couple of days in Seattle. After three months of searing Arizona heat, a day or two spent enjoying blue skies and 78° temperatures was tonic.

While I was grinning at my good fortune, my Seattle friends were complaining bitterly about "just one more Seattle summer that never arrived".

Since the parking for my rental car was paid for in the hotel, I decided to walk to my meetings. The walk was lovely. I walked from Lower Queen Anne, through the gentrification of Belltown, the eccentricity that is the Pike Place Public Market (including the original Starbucks,) and on to Pioneer Square.

After a full productive day as I retraced my steps back to my hotel, I passed the Seattle Art Museum's (SAM) Olympic Sculpture Park just as the sun was setting.

I don't know why, but I had never explored this park before. Shame on me.

It is another example of the Puget Sound's most famous computer bazillionaire's (Paul and Bill) being philanthropic.

The Park Neatly Knits Together Scraps of Post Industrial Land

Zig Zagging Over Busy Roads and Rail Lines

Successfully Joining the Regrade With The Waterfront

As I explored the free (yes I said free) park I found the whole experience marvelous. Sadly, I was still "without camera" as my old Olympus croaked last week in Venice. So my pictures here are the best I could muster with my I-Phone.

The park itself spans over a major highway and the waterfront rail spurs all the way down to the waterfront. Along the way there are many sculptures and lots of red chairs (that you can pick up and move wherever you want!)

As I entered the park I passed many families setting out blankets for picnic dinners. Some brought food, others were buying dinner from the various food wagons in the park.

This Pig Can Party!

Me, I snagged a red chair, securing a spot next to "The Eagle" (Alexander Calder's 1971 giant orange steel sculpture) which graciously shielded me from the setting sun,) while affording a perfect venue to people watch as the sun drifted away.

A Perfect Place to Watch People and Soak Up A Sunset

Some of Seattle's Avionic Handiwork

Emerges From Behind a Giant Sculpture

Thirty years ago I lived on the south slope of Queen Anne, just a few blocks from my hotel. In those formative (code: financially broke) days, I walked (rain or shine) to work. In 1979 this area was filled with sailor bars, barf, and plenty of squalor. Now it is filled with yuppies and art.

Go figure.

Blue Skies and Seattle's Most Famous Icon

The Scale of Some Of The Sculptures Was Astounding

Well I guess timing is indeed everything. And I honestly cannot think of anywhere I would have rather spent the waning hours of September 8th, 2011.

So, after an invigorating walk I ventured on to Kidd Valley in lower Queen Anne for a big old cheeseburger and bag of deep fried battered mushrooms.

Probobaly ingested a sufficient amount of grease to trim at least a year off my life.

Totally worth it!

Italian Door Knockers

2011-09-10T14:40:00.006-07:00

Elegant Arrivals!

Over the past couple of weeks I had the pleasure of doing a little vacationing in Italy. For an architect, Italy is a total sensory overload. Heck, for anyone with a heartbeat, Italy is a sensory overload. There's the food, vibrant countryside, history, music, fashion, you name it.

For some reason this trip I found myself fixated on the incredible door pulls and knockers found on seemingly every door from the most humble to the most lavish.

Some of them were very old, some I'm sure were replicas and fairly new. I didn't really care. I just shot a lot of photos of them in Venice, Florence, Sienna, Montepulciano, and Pienza. Enjoy!

The Door To The Murano Glass Showroom in Venice

There is something wonderful in transforming the most mundane everyday things in our lives into something magical!

Think about these next time you reach for boring smooth modern chrome door pull at the bank........

Farewell Venice

2011-09-08T21:56:00.007-07:00

A Quiet Sunday Stroll - An Historic Sea Regatta

Written September 4, 2011

This morning when I looked out of my hotel window I produced an involuntary sigh. Tomorrow I fly home and rejoin my "normal" life, so today is bittersweet.

I enjoyed a nice big breakfast then stepped out of my hotel room with no specific destination in mind. Being my last day I thought I’d generally start walking to places I’ve yet to fully explore.

The View From My Hotel Room at The Molino Stucky

I had been notified that the hotel’s motor launch service to Piazza San Marco would be curtailed much of the afternoon. When asked the concierge was not sure why. However, once aboard the launch I was told today was Venice's annual regatta of historic oared sea craft. Cool!

So I rode just across the Guidecca Canal to Zattere. From there I started walking toward the Punta della Dogana.

The prominence of the Punta della Dogana is important. It is where the Giudecca Canal splits from the Grand Canal. Hence, it is the location of Venice's historic Customs House (now one of Venice's many art museums.) The location is superb as it is easy walking distance to the Guggenheim collection of modern art.

Since it was a Sunday morning Venice was still quiet. Initially my walk took me past all of the old Customs House warehouses. Many have been re-purposed to showcase art installations. I stepped into two; one featuring modern Arab art and the other student art. Some of the warehouses are used by Venice's various rowing clubs, which were all abuzz gearing up for the regatta.

As I came to the very tip of the Punta I could not help but notice Charles Ray's 8' tall stark white sculpture of a boy holding up a dead frog. Apparently, this was supposed to be a temporary installation (in 2009.) So I have to assume it is becoming more permanent. I also couldn't help but notice that a guard remained inches from the sculpture complicating my photo efforts.

However, when I reached my room and read about a madman vandalizing the fountain of the Moors in Rome's Piazza Navona, the guard made sense.

Boy With Frog is striking in size, siting, and stark white finish. Also it stands at the just below the 1677 era tower capped with the magical swirling weathervane Fortuna perched on a gilded globe supported by two atlases.

Boy With Frog

Charles Ray 2009 - Los Angeles

(Across the Canal is San Giorgio Maggiore)

The Globe With Fortuna

Fortuna From San Marco

Much of the Punta della Dogana museum is scaffolded due to a major redesign by Tadao Ando. As I understand it his design respects the form of the original building. Guess I'll just have to come back and see that someday.....

I then turned the corner and there was the lovely Basilica Santa Maria della Salute. This is the cathedral built to thank the Virgin for the end of plague. The last time I was in Venice in 2008 it was covered by elaborate scaffolding, so it was wonderful to now see it complete. I ran the gauntlet of gypsy beggars and entered the Basilica. Being Sunday mass was underway inside. The Basilica is as breathtaking inside as it is outside.

Santa Maria della Salute

Mass in Session

I then crossed the canal aiming toward the Guggenheim. Before getting there I encountered another Biennale exhibit featuring modern (berserk?) works of art from China. Many of them featured imagery from American popular culture. One sculpture was a large Mickey Mouse in a state of arousal that would not be suitable for children. If artwork is a window to a culture's soul, well China has joined the rest of the industrial world's level of ambulatory schizophrenia........

Some of Biennale's Modern Chinese Art

I then walked by Peggy Guggenheim's Museum and found it easy to resist the costly admission price. In reality much of the art she collected is the 70-'s era "plop art" I don't appreciate.

Up till now my stroll had been as quiet as one would expect on a Sunday. But as I made my way toward the Academia bridge I found the crowds.

A Quiet Sunday Morning

As well as finding the crowds I also noted that everywhere I went the Venetian flag was being raised in support of the regatta.

The Venetian Flag Being Raised

I made my way to the Academia Bridge and enjoyed the views of the Grand Canal and the flowers blooming on the grounds of the Institute of Science Letters and Art.

The Grand Canal

From here the crowds started to develop and remained that way for the rest of the day (despite it raining a bit later in the afternoon.) As I walked I realized how much I love the gondola's and wooden water taxis' that are all over Venice. They, in my opinion, are true works of art.

A Typical Venetian Water Taxi

From here I enjoyed some window shopping. Venice has superb shops of every sort, but I love the leather, paper, superb Murano glass, and lush Fortuny fabrics.

Amazing Leatherwork

At this point my little Olympus Stylis camera bit the dust. As it is my second Olympus to die prematurely (usually minutes after the warranty expires,) I guess my affection for Olympus is officially over.

As I made my way back to the Grand Canal I got to see the amazing Regatta and snpped a few photos with my I-phone. Hence the quality of the photo's is lowwwwwww.

Regatta Splendor

More Eye Candy

From here is was a stroll back to Zaterre to catch a lift back to the Molino. Like all good things, this visit to Italy is drawing to a close. Time to start packing.

Arrivederci Montestigliano

2011-09-03T09:16:00.007-07:00

Leaving A Perfect Place

This post is a bookend. I posted when we arrived at Montestigliano, so it seemd appropriate to post again as we left.

Roadboy spends more than 140 nights a year in a hotel.

Just roll that around in your head a bit - more than 140 nights a year in hotel rooms.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining since most of my travel is work related and a hotel stay equals gainful employment.

And travel means I see new places and constantly meet new people. I love that.

The downside, well I miss my loved ones, friends, and uber cute pups waiting for me at home in Phoenix.

Once in awhile when traveling for fun or work I get to stay in amazing places and this trip to Italy has been one of those times. My friend Robert arranged it all (for which I am very grateful as the organizing part normally falls to me.)

For this trip he rented a villa on the Montestigliano Estate in Tuscany (just outside of Siena.) The villa we stayed in was the oldest and largest on the estate; Villa Donati. It is hundreds of years old. It is spacious and all the beds are new. Everyone shares bathrooms. At night we had a few bees and mosquito's that ventured in. We also had a black cat that found her way in almost every night.

There was no television. There was no microwave. There was a washer, but clothes had to be line dried outside.

Yet despite a few inconveniences, the stay was just wonderful. There were two magnificent swimming pools. There were delicious meals cooked by the resident chef using the Montestigiano Estate's own olive oil. There were views every direction. And everywhere you look were the colors of Tuscany ever changing as the sun rose or set.

This place was amazingly relaxing. I highly recommend it. In fact, I'm doing something I've never done before - adding a weblink to a specific property on this blog.

The estate only books for one week stays and there are numerous villa's of differing sizes, but for a family, special event, or reunion of special friends, this is a place that cannot be beat.

Montestigliano Eco-Agricultural Tourist Lodging

A few more more photos of Montestigliano.

The Donati Family Villa
(Guarded Meticulously by a Grey Striped Tabby)

A Tree Lined Road On The Estate

A View From The Courtyard

The Sun Rises Over the Surrounding Hills

The Courtyard And Estate Offices

(Where Check-in and Cooking Classes Take Place)

A Fantasy of Tuscan Colors

Our Host and Chef Discuss The Superb Villa Dinner

It was so hard to leave Montestigliano this morning to make my way back to Venice. But, I have a lovely free day Sunday to explore at leisure one of the world's most amazing cities. Monday I make my way to Marco Polo airport to start my journey home.

To my friends from the villa. Godspeed till we meet again!

Seeing Tuscany By Bicycle

2011-09-02T15:55:00.002-07:00

So Much To See - So Little Shoulder

Today was a day I had really looked forward to. I jumped on a rented, yet very nice, Scott mountain bike and set out to tour at road level.

The route selected was probably about 14km and wound up including a few hills. But gravity provides the benefit of downhills for every hill climbed.

We pedaled past the town of Stigliano and made a first stop in Torri. There we walked into the amazing and well tended community graveyard. There were numerous loved ones caring for graves. Many graves are protected by extensive marble stonework. Most had photos of the loved one. Some were even equipped with electrically operated "flames".

The Well Tended Graves of Torri

We then pedalled up the beautiful cypress lined entrance road leading to the village itself. The cloister and church (and I assume the town itself) dates back to about 1000 AD and was updated in the 13th Century.

The Road to Torri

A Small B&B In Torri

We stopped here first as the lovely little cloister is only available for viewing until noon most days. The interior is designed as a protected arcade with protected views to gardens on two sides.

The Cloister's Internal Arcade

with Stonework Reminiscent of the Siena's Duomo

A View From The Cloister

The Church in Torri

We then rode to Rosia and risked life and limb from the kamikaze drivers screaming past us on the narrow roads as we left town and began to climb hills.

We spent a little time having cokes in a very nice little restaurant in Sovicille. The stop was very much needed. We then rode down the hill to the flat farm land filled with acres of spent sunflowers waiting to be plowed under

Biking Bliss - Tuscan Style

Sunflowers Everywhere

I can't think of a better way to spend a day in this spectacular place. Now if they could just add a few inches on either side of the highways I'd feel much better.

A Hike Along The Merse

2011-09-01T14:13:00.009-07:00

If These Rocks Could Talk

It is very easy to spend all of ones time in Tuscany visiting the many historic hilltowns, enjoying fine food, terrific winery's, or shopping for local handicrafts.

We took one day to just explore "nowhere". This meant walking along the road just below Villa Donati; the one that leads to the little village of Brenna.

On this route it is a pretty safe bet we would not see other tourists. But how lovely is that!

First we came to one of the various watermill's along the River Merse. It was used until the 1950's to make cotton fabrics. While its wheels no longer spin, the water running to where the millrace used to be is still there and it filled with big rainbow trout.

One of the Mills Near Brenna Along the Merse

We then walked along the river itself. This led to a little bridge. We veered off and walked along the river. We found lots of local families having fun in the river. There were swift spring fed streams feeding the river at various points. Some places the river was pretty deep and the trees had rope swings attached.

Cascades of Cool Water From a Mountain Spring

Feed the Merse at A Swimming Hole

We enjoyed the geology in and out of the river. In the river we turned rocks over to see what the fish were dining on. Along the trail we enjoyed the granite and sparkling quartz.

Wild Figs Growing Out of A Rock Wall

From here we climbed up an old trail that was pretty overgrown and required a little bushwhacking. Everywhere all I could think of was how I wish I could flash back and see this river a hundred years ago, two hundred years ago, etc. There is no question this river valley has been witness to history dating back from the Etruscan's to the GI's in WWII.

One of the Endless Little Shrines

Found Seemingly Everywhere In Tuscany

For now, however, it is peaceful, filled with families, and loaded with big, healthy, trout.

It was now time to make our way back to the villa admiring the rich farmlands along the way. Walking we came across various shrines and hills bright red with iron. We could also hear the wild boars' rooting around in the fields.

Rich Fields Along the RIver

It is not often I get to explore without agenda. This trip I had an amazing guide!

A Day Trip to Florence

2011-08-31T16:06:00.006-07:00

Living on Reputation

I've visited Florence many times over the past 30 plus years. It has always been an essential stop on any itinerary to Europe.

Florence The Gothic and Renaissance Treasure Chest

Today we had a day trip planned where some of the group would go to the Uffizi, some the Accademia (David), and some both. Since I had just been to the Uffizi two years ago, I passed on the Uffizi and limited my culture stop to the Accademia.

We parked at the incredibly convenient lot at Porta Romana. It is just behind the Roman wall. Here, you can park all day and pay at departure with a credit card. From this lot the Palazzo Pitti, Boboli Gardens and the Ponte Vecchio are a remarkably easy walk.

The Uffizi Gallery and The Arno

Note The Little Square Windows Above the Arcade

They Identify the Vassari Corridor

(The Medici's Secure Link Between Palazzo Pitti and Palazzo Vecchio)

Florence is filled with Gothic and Renaissance treasures. It is home to Michelangelo's David, Botticelli's Birth of Venus, Brunelleschi's engineering masterpiece Il Duomo, Palazzo Pitti, and Ghiberti's incredible bronze baptistery doors (which took 27 years to cast and Michelangelo proclaimed "The Gates of Paradise".)

These are amazing sights found nowhere else on earth. Florence's crowds provide some of the finest people watching anywhere.

Clowning Around at the Pitti Palace

Nonetheless, two years ago in a visit here I found myself having to make excuses for Florence. I'd explain "Oh, it used to be much cleaner." Or "It didn't use to to be such a tourist trap". or, "They used to take such good care of the Duomo and the Uffizi". And finally "Oh it sure has been getting more and more crowded".

Sadly, my visit today simply confirmed my impressions of two years ago. While I know Florence is (and always will be) the favorite destination for many (and used to be for me as well,) much of Florence today is just inexcusably dirty, poorly maintained, increasingly rude, and wildly expensive. Some examples: The Boboli Gardens - just a hillside of raked rocks and dead plants. The Uffizi - Ill kept, poorly lit, and hot. The food - had restaurants charge $6 for a can of coke and $10 for a cup of gelato.

A Classic Cappucino Bar

The Ponte Vecchio

Former Home to Butcher Shops

Now Home to Gold and Jewelry Shopss

A Glimpse Into One of Florence's Private Garden

Perseus Slays Medusa
(What is With The "Holding Up A Head I Chopped Off" Statuary?)

So, in sum, plan a day trip. Come, sample Florence's incredible treasures. Then leave it.

Stay in Siena or somewhere in the peaceful Tuscan countryside.

Pienza and Montepulciano

2011-08-30T14:21:00.006-07:00

Extraordinary Tuscan Hilltowns

Monday was unbelievably special. I was lucky enough to visit two of the most incredibly beautiful city's in the Val d'Orcia.

The drive to each was also breathtaking. The hills of Tuscany are incredibly layered with agriculture Typically there will hills filled with vineyards bordered by the precise edges formed by tall slender cypress trees. Other places there will be rows of stalks of corn or sunflowers.

Pope Pius decided to rebuild his hill hugging hometown Corsignano. To undertake the effort he commissioned Bernardo Gambrelli to transform the little village into an ideal Rennaisance city. The finished product would have a main square, cathedral, and pallazzo's. It turned out to be a masterpiece and was renamed Pienza as a tribute to Pius II.

The City has been designated a Unesco World Heritagesite and is now equally famous for its peccorino cheese (Sheeps milk.) The wheels of cheese are found in many of the stores throughout the village. I also found exceptional leatherwork and linens.

The View From Pienza

Pienza's Famous Cheese

The Duomo

An Old Bicycle in Pienza

Some of Pienza's Leather Handiworks

After a light lunch and a gelato stop (or two) we went on to Montepulciano. This city is justifiably famous for its magnficent architecture, stunning views and smooth Vino Nobile wines. Similar to Siena Montepulciano is laid out with various neighborhhods called contrade. Where Siena's contrades compete each year in its Il Palio horse race, in Montepulciano residents from each contrade compete the last sunday in August in an annual ritual of racing wine casks uphill.

A View Looking Up to Montepulciano

The Cask races had just taken place so the City was festooned with contrade flags and a party atmosphere. We stopped for vino and basked in the unbelievable views.

A Contrade Flag Holder in Montepulciano

A Classic Hilltown

The View from the City

So there you have it, this is just about the most beautiful place Roadboy has ever visited. Tuesday has been set aside for a hike and a swim. Wednesday it is off for a day trip to Florence.

Roadboy's Travels © 2011

Montestigliano

2011-08-27T17:06:00.013-07:00

Living in Villa Donati

This week I am a resident of Italy. For the next 7 days and 6 nights I have a real address living in the Villa Donati on the Montestgiliano estate in Central Tuscany.

Before arriving in the Villa I spent another morning in the historic inner wall area of Siena examining its beautiful Duomo and enjoying a "Gelato for breakfast" day.

It rained a bit

I then went to a huge local supermarket. I can't tell you how wonderful it was to peer into coolers filled with dozens of brands of fresh prosciutto. Then I moved on into the produce aisle and cried at the sight of piles of fresh soft fragrant peaches and nectarines. Nearby there were mountains of plump grapes with seeds. I came to realize that nobody touches produce until they carefully put on gloves. Then there was the cheese (tubs and tubs of fresh mozzarella) and the seafood......

I would have been quite happy to spend a couple of very happy hours in that supermarket....

But we had friends to meet and traveled the 12 km from Siena to the Montestigliano estate. This is a working farm in a region that grows sunflowers, olives, corn and grains. On the estate they bottle their own olive oil.

Sitting on the top of the hill was the oldest of the houses; Villa Donati. Built the 1700's this home dates back to the days of George Washington and Benjamin Franklin.

Villa Donati

The villa has 6 bedrooms and has been upgraded to five bathrooms. It has a modern kitchen and a big dining roomwith a lovely back yard with grape arbors with a western view looking west over the rolling hills and rows of cypress trees.

Tuscan Hill Country Views From The Estate

Huge Grapes on Arbors

Just Out the Back Door

There are two lovely swimming pools and the doors and windows of the villa have been left wide open all day to harvest the fresh air after a rain this morning.

One of Two Swimming Pools At Montestigliano

I settled in, grabbed my camera and took a easy walk down the long rows of cypress tree. It was quiet and lovely.

The Trademark Italian Cypress Trees

Seemingly Define Every Ancient and Current Roadway

I'm never going to want to leave.....

Ahh Siena!

2011-08-26T15:22:00.013-07:00

Italy's Hilltop Treasure

This isn't my first trip to Siena. And, God willing, it won't be my last. It is a complete delight. The summer edition of the famous Il Palio was run a week or so ago, and the streets and Campo still bear the trappings of the world's only true horse race. No offense meant to Santa Anita or Churchill Downs, but in those venues for a horse to win there has to be a rider on it's back.

In Il Palio the first horse to cross the line - with or without a rider - wins.

Now that is truly a "horse" race!

I arrived by train from Venice via Florence. The 1 hour 28 minute train trip from Florence costs all of 6.3 euros. But, unless you know this medieval town like the back of your hand, flag down a cab between the train station and your hotel.

I met up with old friends and before dinner we enjoyed a Bellini al fresco on the Campo. From there we watched the recently wed emerge from City Hall and get covered in rice (nice to know that there is a place where you can still throw rice!)

A Wedding Party in Siena

There was a free band concert on the Campo featuring a well volumed and eclectic mix of music.

From there we descended into the brick basement of Guidoriccio for an amazing dinner. Since we were early, the owner fawned. He started us out with pureed veggies and bruschetta (I’m serious the bread was part of the puree). He then poured the best chianti I have ever tasted (a 2007 Rietine). That was followed with prosciutto and melon, risotto with saffron, pappardelle with wild boar, and pork tenderloins marinated in balsamic vinegar (I know it sounds odd, but was great). Desert was fig, raspberry, and blueberry (the best ever) sorbet from Grom. I loved it so much I did a total face plant in the blueberry sorbet. Took numerous napkins to fix that.

Siena's Center of Community Life

The Campo

And Home to A Magnificent City Hall!

Rant Warning!

I came away realizing that Siena offers a timeless lesson to elected officials and city planners. Yet, it is a lesson completely ignored in virtually all modern North American car centric cities.

Any real city needs some sort of vibrant center of community life. Sorry, shopping malls rarely suffice.

And vibrant centers of community life should include fine, timeless, durable public buildings that a community can point to as a source of pride for the ages.

After sitting though endless City Council meetings all over North America - I can tell you in most places any decision where to locate a new public building will almost always descend to selecting land that is cheap, poisoned, behind something, hard to build on, and incapable of ever providing any tax revenue.

Our priorities have become fiscal and strictly short term.

Siena elegantly proves the deep flaw in embracing short term goals, rather than a more timeless vision.

Conversely, could it be that we have unconsciously come to view our modern cities as disposable?

Venice My Way

2011-08-25T14:28:00.010-07:00

A Day for Meandering

Well despite a long day of flying from Arizona to Venice, I arrived feeling pretty darned good. So I checked into my hotel, showered, took a couple hours of nap and then bought my 1.20 Euro ticket from the (exceptionally nice) Hilton Garden Inn to Venice.

Despite waiting for the mid-day sun to subside I still wound up walking for almost 5 hours. Bliss....

The Grand Canal Looking Towards The Rialto Bridge

I had only one firm destination and that was Ottica Carraro; Venice's home for one-of-kind, yet affordable, eyeglass frames. They aren't for everyone, but I love 'em.

The Glasses from Ottica Carrraro

Sooo Italian

The rest of the time I only had a general inclination where I was. Which, for Roadboy, is heaven. Cause thats when I stumble on stuff.

First off the Bridge of Sighs is in the middle of refurbishment and has been wrapped up in clouds. So, at least for now, it sort of has a Disneyland feel.

The Bridge of Sighs Has Been Seemingly Set Adrift

I then spent lots of time people watching, especially the kids (of all ages) feeding the pigeons on Piazza San Marco. Piazza San Marco joins Trafalgar Square in London and Plaza Catalunya in Barcelona as premiere pigeon / human play venues.

A Lot of The Best Stuff in Travel is Free

Like all Italian cities there were folks that were dressed like supermodels, mixed in with pure elegance, and a whole bunch of "What Not To Wear".

Wow!

Wow?

The Music

The Food

The Art

David Slays......

Some Street Art

I can now verify that the Love Locks Craze I saw in Paris last winter has reached Venice. At least on the Accademia Bridge!

A Kiss, A Lock, A Key Is Tossed in The Canal

I finished off my movable feast with street food. A magnificent fresh mozzarella panini, a tall bottle of beer, and some cool mojito sorbet.

Time for bed!

Tomorrow it is all day on the train to Florence and on to Siena, but I'll spend a couple of more days in Venice before I leave.

Off To Tuscany

2011-08-20T07:14:00.004-07:00

Gonna Live In A Villa

Next week I'm doing something I rarely do, travel relatively unplanned.

A few weeks back a friend from college called to let me know a trip he was planning with about 15 friends had an extra slot. When he explained that he rented a villa about 12 km from Siena, and I found out mountain bikes were available, I decided I wanted to go.

After a little checking I found out that (amazingly) this late in the summer there was still a reduced point frequent flier business class seat to Venice available a day or two either side of when I'd need to be there. Total price (incl. taxes) $49!

I'm oughta here.

Not totally sure what the internet situation will be each night, but I'll post when I can.

Ciao!

Roadboy's Travels © 2011

Roadboy's Santa Fe

2011-08-15T23:50:00.009-07:00

Pure Bliss

Anyone that knows Roadboy is well aware of my penchant for one-of-a-kind places. I despise modern American cities carefully designed by sadistic civil engineers to maximize pavement. While great for cars, 6 lane wide streets, divided by huge medians are completely anti-pedestrain and efficient in the destruction of anyone who dares to ride a bicycle. These are roads bordered by the urban vomit of cookie cutter Applebee's, Burger Kings, Starbucks, or Panera's.

To me there is nothing more heartbreaking than the slow "Strip Malling" of America.

So, lets just put it out there that I prefer places with history. Places that embrace art. Places with distinctive architecture. Places that serve up unique food. Place's that are unabashedly spiritual. Places with narrow streets. Places with distinctive colors and smells.

This weekend I had the good fortune to revisit one of those special places - Santa Fe.

So here is a quick post to throw a little happy on a place that leaves no doubt why New Mexico truly is America's "Land of Enchantment".

Moonrise Over Santa Fe

Santa Fe is the oldest capital city in North America. It is also the site of the oldest public building in North America - the 401 year old Santa Fe Palace of Governor's.

Indian Artisan's at the Palace of the Governor's

Coming from a typical Phoenix summer day of 108° F, the weather in Santa Fe was a delight; bright sunshine followed by big splashes of cool drops of rain!

Man's Best Friend Carry's the Umbrella

This is a city where there is seemingly a church and three art galleries on every corner. The art varies from traditional to cutting edge. The church's are sublime, with perhaps the Loretto Chapel and it's miraculous staircase being my favorite.

The Stairs of Loretto

To this day there is no record of the mysterious craftsman who came, built the stair tower in the Loretto Chapel, and then was never seen again. The stair has two complete 360° coils and was built solely using wooden pegs. There is no glue, nails, or steel in its construction. It rises without any center support. It was originally built without handrails. It is quite simply a marvel.

Contemporary Native Art

At the Institute of the American Indian

Santa Fe inspired luminaries like Gerogia O'Keefe and is home to the renowned Santa Fe Opera Company.

If you need lodging consider the funky El Rey Motel. For Dinner Lan's Vietnamese was tasty. Oh, but for Breakfast go early and grab a table at The Pantry where (since 1948) portions and flavors have been big, rich, and spicy and the staff and clientele ever friendly.

And if you come or go via the Albuquerque Sunport, plan to stop long enough to enjoy an amazing meal at The Standard Diner on Central SE. It began life as a gas station, but now it deliver's creative cuisine with flair and finesse.

Albuquerque's Standard Diner - Nothin Standard About it!

For my money, a visit to Santa Fe is pure magic any time of the year.

A Walk in Santa Barbara

2011-07-21T15:29:00.009-07:00

California's Most Beautiful City

Update
Two days after this visit one of the local architects I met while there passed away unexpectedly. He spent much of his professional life creating architecture in Santa Barbara. So I dedicate this to Jorge Machin.

When you ask almost anyone to pick their favorite place in California, people tend to list a city like San Francisco or maybe San Diego. Some might select a general area like Lake Tahoe, The Redwoods, The Wine Country, or Yosemite.

When you change the question and ask them to name California's most beautiful city, then a whole different list emerges. It will usually include Coronado, Carmel, Monterey, Napa, Mendocino, and Santa Barbara.

Santa Barbara - America's Riviera

For my money the loveliest of them all is Santa Barbara. It has a great beach, lovely harbor, a superb mediterranean climate, great restaurants, great shops, great cultural amenities, and wonderful examples of mission style and andalusian architecture.

First inhabited by Chumash Indians and later visited twice by Padre Serra, (once in 1769 and again in 1782 to establish the Presidio and California's most beautiful mission - which was dedicated in 1786.)

Less than 50 years later the large land tracts secured by Serra and held by the Franciscan Order were distributed to wealthy cattle ranching families commencing California's Rancho period. The rancho period ended about thirty years later when many of those cattle died during a severe drought.

With the construction of Stearn's wharf in 1872, and the development of rail service to Los Angeles and San Francisco around the turn of the century, Santa Barbara was very accessible and development boomed. The discovery of oil locally and a burgeoning motion picture industry furthered the local economy.

Nowadays the area is home to high tech companies, a University of California campus and some of the wealthiest people in North America.

I was lucky enough to spend a day in Santa Barbara this week for business. I was even luckier when my business ended early enough in the day for me to take a two hour walk. I had no agenda and just meandered. Everywhere I ventured was wonderful.

The first stop was to see the magnificent Santa Barbara County Courthouse. Pronounced the best building in California by no less than architect Charles Moore, this 1929 masterpiece is amazing. Built as a tangible symbol of the rebirth of Santa Barbara from its devastating 1925 earthquake, much of the building blurs the line between indoors and outdoors. It is composed of essentially three parts, its focal point being the lovely understated bell tower (that the public may still visit to enjoy 360° views.)

The Santa Barbara County Courts Building

In a city where land is now sold by the square inch, this building has a huge magnificent open landscaped forecourt.

Looking From the Bell Tower Toward the Sheriff's Wing

Mermaids and Triton Adorn the Building

I stayed at Fess Parker's Doubletree Resort. This property is directly across the street from the beach and is lushly landscaped. It suffers from poor planning, slipshod construction, some very indifferent staff. And, despite room rates that start at $300 per night, its spacious, but very tired rooms, only rate "nice" in my book. I guess location is everything.

An Ocean View From My Room

Hibiscus Blooming on My Balcony

The beach was wonderfully uncrowded, beautifully open, and very easily accessible. With staffed lifeguard stations, this is a great section of beach for families. I ventured to the harbor and ate at Brophy's. This busy cafe offers excellent chowder and a (very) lively bar scene.

The Harbor

Uncrowded Beaches

I turned to head up State Street (Downtown's major thoroughfare.) State Street and the blocks extending both directions from it are home to galleries, restaurants, designer boutiques, jewelry stores, and theaters.

Santa Barbara's Shops Cater to Every Taste

From a Rolex to Skin Art

It is also a movable feast for people watching. People move in waves, students, tourists, backpackers, homeless, along with the very well heeled from around the world.

Santa Barbara is famous (or infamous) for its rigid architectural design and development. While the standards make it difficult and excruciatingly expensive to build anything at all, what finally emerges is assured to be lovely and in perfect harmony with Santa Barbara's mission style heritage.

A Detail From the Public Library

Ficus Trees Line Many Streets and

Bougainvillea Vines Adorn Many Buildings

Much like other California beach communities, the contrast between rich and poor here is profound, panhandling and homelessness are the norm. And, judging by the amazing number of private jets stacked three deep at the airport, many residents here have more money than they will ever need.

Next trip here, I will rent a room in one of the impeccably maintained 1950's era motel's on upper State St. and use the savings to rent a bicycle. Then I'll go for a ride along the coast to the University.

Roadboy's Travels © 2011

PS For those that love the catalog clothing from Santa Barbara's own "The Territory Ahead", There is a retail store and an outlet store on State Street. I'm more of the "Outlet Store" kind of guy. I found a pair of silk and linen slacks, a pair of chinos, and a polo that I really loved. Retail would have been about $240. The Outlet price (including tax) rang out at $56. Roadboy is still smilin.....

10,000!

2011-07-04T07:06:00.002-07:00

A Milestone for Independence Day!

Sometime last night Roadboy's Travels recorded its 10,000th page view.

I know that this is actually a modest number relative to many blogs, but it is a heck of a lot more than I ever dreamed of when I started it!

So I wanted to offer my sincere thanks everyone that has ever visited!

All the best from Roadboy!

Roadboy's Travel's © 2011

A Walk In The Desert Botanical Garden

2011-06-19T21:46:00.011-07:00

A Perfect Father's Day

I had the day all planned; church, brunch, then go off to the office and get caught up while it is quiet. I, like many business owners, frequently view Saturday and Sunday as just two working days before Monday.

Well Miss M had a different idea. Sort of a garden intervention. It worked.

Instead of more office time, We took a walk in Phoenix's Desert Botanical Garden. It was about 5 PM when we arrived, (which was fine as it was open till 8 PM.) There were maybe 10 cars in the lot.

The entrance pavilion and and visitor services facilities have all been relocated and upgraded since the last time I was there. And all the new facilities have been very sensitively designed and are just beautiful.

As you approach the entry plaza you cannot help but notice the tall sparkling glass pieces by Dale Chihuly from the 2009 blockbuster "Glass In The Garden" show.

For a blog post that showcases the Chihuly show see: 2009 Chihuly Show

The Chihuly art remains thanks to a thoughtful group of corporate and individual sponsors who are raising funds to buy these pieces to keep them permanently in Phoenix.

The temperatures were not all that bad. Yet, while walking we encountered maybe 15 people in the whole garden.

And since the sun was starting to wane, the critters were all busy. Cactus Wrens, quail, lizards, jackrabbits and regular rabbits were everywhere. But what I loved were the dazzling butterflies and darting hummingbirds. It was wonderful.

Chihuly Sculptures

At The Entry To The Garden

The Queen Butterflies Are Back

Saguaro's The Desert Sentinals

Miss M Inspecting A Birds Nest

Terrific Use of Water

Beautiful Landscaped Planter beds

Some Of The Succulents

This is one place where if you leave anything but refreshed, well then I advise sitting down to check your pulse!

If I had worked my day would have just been another forgotten Father's Day. Going to the garden made it a day I won't ever forget.

Riding The Canals in Phoenix

2011-06-16T19:06:00.013-07:00

Roadboy's Favorite Bicycle Ride

Friends of Roadboy are well aware that I am challenged in nearly all athletic endeavors. It defies logic, but there you go. I'm tall so I should be able to play basketball right? Nope. I have long arms, baseball? Nope. Long legs, tennis? Are you kidding, that requires grace! Swimming? I sink like a big chunk of concrete.

The exception? I love riding bicycles. Some days, I ride my skinny wheel road bike, others seem best suited my big fat tire mountain bike. It all depends upon the weather and how adventurous I feel. Whatever bike I select bicycling always puts me in "the zone". Sometimes too much so (who else do you know that has actually fallen asleep while riding?) A severe case of mangled wheel and some heavy road rash confirm that sleeping and riding a bike are incompatible. Go Figure!

So when life is too much, I simply strap on my helmet, slip on my gel pad gloves and go.

And Phoenix is sort of "the" perfect place for any cyclist. With our sinful oversupply of sunshine and miles and miles of bike lanes and bike trails, Metro Phoenix is truly a cyclists dream. Just be careful, with our wide roads, drivers tend to really speed, and bikes are no match when up against grandma's big Buick or junior's rice rocket.

So if you come to the valley your riding options are amazing. You can ride all day in either the North or South Mountain Preserve's. If you visit the NE valley there are the McDowell Mountains. The West valley has the White Tanks. The beginner has the Hayden green belt, any canal, or the gentle trails that lace Papago Park. The adrenaline junkie has the sphincter testing double diamond National trail (that runs the ridge top of South Mountain Park.) For my money the best list of trails (along with his accurate sphincter pucker ratings - I am not making that up!) can be found in Cosmic Ray's Arizona Bike Trails book. Ray covers the whole state and has provided me with awesome rides from Flagstaff to Mexico.

I suppose every cyclist has their favorite "regular ride", and I am no exception. So I thought I'd describe my favorite in Metro Phoenix.

I live in North Central so I start by heading north along Central Avenue's 100+ year old Murphy Bridle Path. I ride that all the way to where it intersects the SRP canal in Sunnyslope. There I turn east and start riding the canal. A little digression: Central Avenue is Phoenix's Avenue / Street Zero. What I mean by that is all NS streets west of Central Ave are numbered avenues; first avenue, second avenue etc. Similarly all NS streets east of Central Ave are numbered streets; first street, second street etc.

Along this stretch of canal there are tunnels under all the numbered streets till you get to 40th Street. So for those keeping track that is 40 solid blocks of zero automobile interface! Nice!

Biking the Canals (Looking Toward Camelback)

Now here's why the architect in me loves this ride. In this stretch there are wonderful buildings lining the canal. Not to mention great views of Piestawa Peak. Which I've been told holds the most popular urban trail in the nation.

Off in The Distance Piestewa Peak

The Arizona Biltmore Hotel and Resort

The Sprites
(From Frank Lloyd Wright's Midway Gardens)

My ride then passes the regal Arizona Biltmore. Built and owned originally by William Wrigley Jr. The Biltmore opened in 1929. It was designed by Albert Chase McArthur who studied under Frank Lloyd Wright from 1907 - 1909. That makes the Biltmore the last intact Wright inspired hotel remaining in the world.

Its has welcomed nearly every sitting president since it was built and is surrounded by lovely golf courses and zillion dollar homes. Celebrity guests have always loved its grounds and pools. Irving Berlin composed White Christmas here by the pool. And Marilyn Monroe frequently told people that the pool at the Biltmore was her favorite.

On the hill overlooking the Biltmore Mr. Wrigley built what for many decades was the largest home in Arizona. Built from 1929 - 1930 "La Colina Solana" The Sunny Hill was Mr. Wrigley's 50th wedding anniversary gift to his wife Ada. And at almost 17,000 SF (and equipped with 12 bathrooms), it was Mr. Wrigley's smallest residence.

From the Biltmore we cross into Paradise Valley (which we simply call "PV"). This is perhaps Arizona's toniest neighborhood and has always been home to celebrities, Doctors, Lawyers, an occasional weapons merchant, sports stars, and politicians.

My favorite spot in PV is The Hermosa. Former home to Cowboy artist Lon Megargee, it is now a fine Inn and one of Arizona's most beautiful restaurants.

The Courtyard at Lon's

Lon's

Lon's artwork includes the Cowboy on the Bucking Bronco found inside every Stetson hat!

From here I head north up Tatum past the PV Country Club. From Tatum I turn off at the (very easy to miss) east entry to the North Phoenix Mountain Preserve. Having truly saved the best for last I pedal the singletrack Trail 100. Here, despite being completely surrounded by the 6th largest city in America, you can find stretches where absolutely no development may be seen in any direction. I have encountered roadrunners, millipedes, javalinas and rattlesnakes (only once) along this trail.

Trail 100

Singletrack Bliss

But of course the most dangerous predators here are the out-of-control fellow cyclists trying to set some new personal best riding time.

Me, I ride west to Dreamy Draw Park where I can refill my long empty water bottle.

At that point it is time to ride home and put my feet up.

Roadboy's Travels © 2011

The Tuna Boat Turns 50

2011-06-11T10:44:00.007-07:00

My 1961 Bullet Bird

This is a repost. I felt compelled to put it out there again now that my old Thunderbird can officially celebrate its 50th birthday.

When I first saw it I knew it was something special. It was low to the ground. It was uber curvy. It was the color of desert sand. I had to look to find the door handles (they were sculpted right into the door). It was just plain bodacious.

To a 16 year old boy, in an era of boxy 70's era mustangs, it was love at first sight.

The Thunderbird was already 11 years old and had a little over 34,000 miles on it. It was in darned good shape except for missing a back seat.

When I asked about the seat the little old lady who was selling it told me she raised show dogs and had the back seat removed (and filled with plywood to better accommodate the cages she used for transporting them). I had visions of the back seat resting in perfect shape covered up in her garage.

Nope, she had thrown it out.

My 1961 Thunderbird

(Cars from the Era of Sputnik)

When I asked about the missing jack she wistfully said "Oh, I have triple AAA, I don't need a jack!"

There's some logic in there somewhere.

When I asked where I might find a back seat to replace the one she threw away, she rolled her eyes to let me know I was really starting to annoy her. She just said "these are sports cars, they get wrecked every day, go to a junk yard!"

It also needed tires. I also knew full well that (powered by Ford's legendary 390 V8 with a 4 barrel carb) it would pass anything on the road except a gas station. But, back then gas was 34¢ a gallon, came with a free box of dishwasher detergent, and a complimentary car wash.

I took it.

Ahhhh! Fins and Chrome

First stop was a junk yard and I'll be damned if the first T-Bird I came to had a back seat in the right color and the jack. It was pure joss.

The Famous Back Seat

While most of my travels today are by plane, in those days Roadboy's ticket to freedom was this very car. I drove it to high school every day. I drove it to Lake Tahoe about once a month. I drove it camping in the Redwoods. I drove it to Death Valley.

This is the car that moved me to Coeur d'Alene Idaho and then saw me through all of my college years. In fact it was at college in Moscow Idaho where my friend Darryl christened it the "Tuna Boat". A title that stuck.

I spent the stupidest night of my life in it, driving drunk. That was the same night I rolled it right over a couple of those fold-up signs with flashers. Never saw em. But I dragged them for blocks and only decided something was wrong when my car sounded like a North Idaho logging truck. Yep those signs had ripped off both mufflers.

We made quite an impression on all the diners at Moscow's Country Kitchen that night.

I was lucky. No one got hurt and the noise my car now made affirmed one of the most important lessons of my life. Never mix alcohol with driving. Period.

The Very First Swing-A-Way Steering Wheel

When I graduated from college, it drove me to Seattle (right through the fallout from the eruption of Mount Saint Helens - there is still that grey ash under every panel).

The Invisible Door Handles

But when I moved to Alaska the Thunderbird went off to live with mom and dad back in Idaho. Dad took good care of the Tuna Boat for me. After my five years in Alaska she was waiting for me in Seattle.

Amazingly, after a few minor fixes it drove like a champ all the way back to where it started - California. Over the next decade I finally had to have it painted and was only able to drove it once in awhile.

Sixteen years ago when we moved to Arizona, the tuna boat carried me, my then 4 year old son, and our huge golden retriever Charlie. My son sat in the passenger seat with Charlie carefully straddling the space between our seats looking out the big windshield and panting the whole way. Charlie was a big gentle soul with an epic case of doggie halitosis.

In Arizona the car had a proverbial melt down one day losing all of its ability to cool itself and, me being cash strapped, I had to leave it parked for about three years. Then I met the god of Big Birds and old Falcons, Jim Dottling. Jim took my car for about a month into his Thunderbird Connection shop in Sunnyslope. There in his old car spa he methodically brought her back to life. Over the years he rebuilt the transmission, replaced all of the rubber parts, added an AC, new upholstery, new dash, and a modern sound system. While Jim has since retired, his son Darren now runs the T-Bird Connection and provides the same thoughtful TLC.

In many ways she looks better now than when I was in high school. The engine has never needed to be rebuilt and (at the present rate of usage) probably never will.

Except for one night when I played jackass, it has safely carried me and my loved ones, friends, and canine buddies for 39 of its 50 years.

Now when I drive it I get lots of honks, big smiles, and a whole bunch of thumbs up. Mostly from old guys without teeth driving old beaters.

My son ducks down and tries to hide.

Best $700 I ever spent.

Raising The Bar

2011-05-22T20:51:00.008-07:00

A New Public Safety Center for Utah's Capital City

Being an architect sometimes feels like being a movie producer. If a movie producer is only as good as their last movie, then an architect is only as good as his or her last building.

The bar is constantly being raised. As technology and tastes change, client and public expectations always go up.

But isn't that kind of cool?

Makes you always reach forward, climbing up to the next plateau.

Lately my clients have been increasingly interested in green architecture. I find that wonderful. I just wish society was as interested in pursuing sustainability when it comes to their own increasingly huge homes and gargantuan cars.

My current project is the planning of the new Public Safety Center for Salt Lake City. The building is being designed to house Salt Lake's Police and Fire Headquarters. It will also house a state-of-the-art communications center and an Emergency Operations Center.

The Entry Plaza

The building will be a true wonder of technology. It is being designed using a new structural dampening technique to resist earthquake forces. It will house the Salt Lake Information Center (which is a multi-media space allowing emergency services staff to monitor highway cameras, television stations, and related information sources to allow for the logical coordination of available data.)

The building is also being designed to meet / exceed the US Green Building Council's LEED Gold standard. Part of its sustainability features includes the ability to generate much of its own power using a vast array of rooftop photovoltaic panels. The goal is a "Net Zero" building.

Besides being a great place to work, the public will be very welcome here. They will have access to superb public meeting rooms, a first rate police museum, a beautiful festival plaza, even a small shop selling logo items.

The Main Public Lobby

The front plaza is being designed to allow places to eat, read, even a fountain designed for kids to play in during warm summer months.

The Entry Plaza Is Designed To Host Festivals

This one is exciting. It will be a fun energizing place to work. It will be easy on the environment and darned easy on the eyes as well!

PS: Hope you like the new logo. It was time to spiff up a bit. Miss M created the new artwork!!!

Double Nickels

2011-05-10T07:04:00.005-07:00

Another Birthday!

Roadboy is now officially 55. I guess that means (since I plan to live to be 110) that I've just hit the midpoint of my life!

My beautiful (and talented) daughter created the card below.

Had to share.

Thanks Kiddo!

PS you can see more of her great artwork (and buy her books - shameless plug!) by clicking the Iniquitous Fish or Scraps buttons conveniently located just over there to your right....

Treasures From The Low Country

2011-04-30T00:40:00.013-07:00

Dodging Tornadoes, Dedicating Buildings, and Lunch at The Wilkes House

I'm not sure what it is about the Low Country of South Carolina and Georgia, but it is a drug. Once you visit this place you can't ever really get it out of your system.

Many come annually to wear funny shoes, stay in gated luxury resorts, and play golf.

Me I come to explore a place infused with history and enjoy a complete sensory overload.

The first thing I always notice when I get off the plane is the air. This is not wimpy air. It is deliciously humid dense air. It is scented with the earthy fragrance of mud after the tides recede. It is air filled with birds and the sound of insects.

After the air comes the visuals. As you drive you are rewarded with views of tall grass marshlands that undulate with every breeze.

There are trees of every description dripping with spanish moss. Once you reach the ocean, you are rewarded with spectacular beaches with warm waters and turtles that return to nest.

Miss M and Low Country Marshlands

Then there is the food. With its diverse population and embarrassment of riches in fresh seafood, meat and produce, it is too wonderful for words. Whether it is a shrimp boil, a sweet peach, onions or pralines, this is a fine place to eat.

But perhaps most wonderful are the people. They set a pace that is measured. They talk to each other, not just trade abrupt pleasantries. This is where courtesy is respected.

The main reason for my trip this week was to witness the dedication of a fine new police station for the Town of Bluffton SC. We had the honor of collaborating in the planning of this facility and it turned out to be marvelous. The building is technologically advanced, yet features a deceptively simple open plan that encourages staff to work together. It incorporates the work of local artists and utilizes new ideas in sustainable design.

Bluffton's New Police Station

Lobby Mural

Staff Space

Open Bright Workspaces

Surface Water is Cleaned Naturally Using Bio-Swales

Bluffton's Seal

After the ceremony there was enough time for me to take a leisurely drive on two lane roads to Savannah.

The Road to Savannah

My target was lunch at my favorite restaurant in Savannah. The venerable Mrs. Wilkes Boarding House (now simply referred to as The Wilke's House.)

This was not my first time here, nor Lord willing, will it be my last. After an hour or so wait in line chatting with some spirited visitors from Toronto, I was seated with 10-12 new friends at a big table that was already set with dozens of bowls filled with steaming southern cooking. Aside from the famous fried chicken (which is always served,) offerings vary from visit to visit. This time there was red beans and rice, collards, stew, pulled pork, black-eyed peas, flat green beans, okra, rice, mashed potatoes / gravy, marinated cucumbers, potato salad, cornbread, macaroni and cheese, and about a dozen other dishes. Dessert was banana pudding or a blueberry crumble.

Tears. Yes, I'm shedding some tears.

This is one of very few American restaurants to be included in the "1000 Things To Do Before You Die" book.

Just remember a few rules: It is only open weekdays from 11-2 PM. There is no parking lot, so bring lots of quarters for the meters (or take the trolley.) Reservations? Get the heck out of here. There is always a line. So rather than bitch about it enjoy it. Bask in the smell of rolls baking and make some new friends. The price is an incredible bargain at just $16 / person (half price for kids). But bring cash, as they do not accept plastic. There is no menu, but you don't need one. If you feel the need to discuss gluten, butter, lactose issues, your aversion to sweet tea, or any other unique dietary problems you may have - please, do us all a favor, and go someplace else!

It is not uncommon for someone at the table to suggest beginning the meal with a prayer. When the meal is complete tradition requires you bus your own plate, glass and utensils to the kitchen.

Come to the Low Country when you are in no hurry. Pack shorts and loose fitting clothes, a few comfortable cotton tees, toss in a pair of flip-flops.

Then slow down, enjoy the views, the food, the culture, and, most of all, the amazing people who call this magic place home.

PS: If you plan it right, you might be able to catch The Lady Chablis at Club One!

The Marche in Toronto

2011-04-13T10:23:00.009-07:00

The Marche - Fresh as Ever Almost Two Decades Later

So you are visiting Toronto and have a big group of business colleagues or a picky family in tow.

Everyone wants something different; be it Asian, red meat, vegan, Italian or Greek. With Toronto's incredibly diverse population, it is one of the best places to eat in North America. So your choices are varied and all of them are good.

I have a solution worthy of Solomon. Let everyone have what they want. Head straight to the Santiago Calatrava designed Albert Lambert Galleria (formerly the BCE Place) and The Marche!

You will be deemed a hero by all.

First off, the architect part of me must speak. I am a big fan of Santiago Calatrava. He is a true original. He reads no one else's mail.

Much like America's Fay Jones, Calatrava's work has a definite signature, yet it remains distinctive. One look and you see his mastery of how structure works. You also can't help but notice how effortlessly he seems to create exuberant, light-filled places. The finished product takes a formerly leftover space and makes it feel almost ecclesiastic.

In this case the facility creates a year round space seamlessly knitting together buildings of many era's.

The Albert Lambert Galleria

By Valencia Born Architect Santiago Calatrava

(IMHO Old Alley's Don't Get Much Better Than This!)

In perfect "urban chic meets the knit cap crowd," the Galleria is also home to Toronto's Hockey Hall of Fame. Go figure!

Now on the The Marche.

This concept was developed by the Movenpick multi-national food conglomerate. The idea behind the Marche was to create a series of show kitchens around an almost indoor winter garden theme. You enter and are given a credit card. You then stroll past the stations to check out the paella stand, the rosti bar, the grille, the sushi chef, the wood fired pizza baker, the vegetarian bar, the pasta bar, the Seafood bar, the gelato bar, the fruit bar, or the baker. The choices are wide and varied. It feels like the food courts in various department stores in Europe. Everything is presented in dazzling colors and served up in more than ample portions.

Anywhere you select food you hand them your card. They scan the card to put in the price of whatever you select. You then find a comfortable place to sit and eat. Seems almost like a picnic.

After you've eaten your fill, you go to the check-out station where your card is scanned and you settle up.

Everyone gets hot fresh food while maybe getting to sample what everyone else opted for. The concept is truly all things for all people.

I love it.

I first ate here almost 18 years ago when it was new and loved the concept. I was a little scared of going back to see if it was still there. We all know that the half-life of restaurants is pretty short in hyper-competitive markets like Toronto. The Marche was still there and it still felt fresh.

Oh, and the food was wonderful. I snapped a few pictures before the photo police came up and threatened bodily harm (I had missed the oh-so aesthetically embedded "no photos" sign.)

The Vegetarian Bar

Paella Getting Served

The Beautiful Paella Up Close

Focaccia's

The Creperie

The Bakery

So put The Marche on your "fun places for a casual lunch or dinner" list whenever you are lucky enough to visit Toronto!

Pull out a camera at your own risk......

The New Hoover Dam Bridge

2011-04-07T07:36:00.016-07:00

OK I Love Bridges

Perhaps it was growing up with an unobstructed view of both the Golden Gate and Bay Bridges from our living room window. It might have come from knowing that many of the places I wanted to see would require crossing a bridge. Maybe it was just seeing the elegance of the structures in bridges. I am not totally sure why. But for whatever reason I love bridges.

Lion's Gate Vancouver BC

When I see a bridge like Calatrava's Alamillo bridge near Sevilla, or the perfectly counterbalanced elegance of the Newcastle Gateshead Bridge in England I swoon.

To see the Newcastle bridge in action click here.

I love the grace of the Sunshine Skyway cable supports. Then there are the Lion's Gate and Capilano suspension bridges in Vancouver. Oh, and what about the Tower Bridge in London, the Ponte Vecchio in Florence, or the Rialto Bridge or Bridge of Sighs in Venice?

Ponte Vecchio

The Rialto Bridge

The Bridge of "Sighs"

On the Left The Doges Palace On the Right Dungeons

Well this weekend I made a point of seeing, driving over, and walking over the new Mike O'Callaghan - Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge, rather unceremoniously known as the new Hoover Dam Bypass.

Being a Phoenician to me it will forever be simply The Tillman Bridge.

The Tillman Bridge

The bridge is a classic concrete arch design. It is 1900 Feet Long and soars 900 feet above the Colorado River. An average of 14,000 vehicles cross it each day. The bridge cost $240 million and took five and a half years to build. For those keeping track, this means it took slightly longer to build and cost about $200 million more than the Hoover Dam. Now, before I get pinged, I know that the budget comparison is not remotely fair since the dollars aren't adjusted for time.

To walk over the bridge you must go to the Nevada side and take the Hoover Dam off ramp. You'll go though the vehicle security checkpoint and then make your way to the free parking lot providing bridge access. There are porta-johns if you are in need. To get to the bridge requires climbing a few sets of stairs or zig zagging up the (seemingly endless) ADA ramps.

Once you reach bridge level there are some interpretive displays and access to the bridge itself. Being able to walk across the bridge was very cool, but certainly not for anyone with vertigo. And the views of the Hoover Dam from the bridge are breathtaking.

Hoover Dam Viewed From Mid-Span

Perhaps I am just a wimp, but I also found walking across a bit terrifying. The walk surface is 64 stories above the Colorado. Between the wind and the vibrations of every semi-truck rolling across I found myself pretty creeped out.

I was very surprised by the lack of a suicide barrier. The last thing we need is for Pat Tillman's legacy to become linked to suicides.

The Bridge's Reflection in The Colorado River

The Apex Medallion

Walkway and Guardrails

From a practical point of view, the bridge is wonderful. It cuts about 45 minutes off the drive time to Las Vegas. All traffic on US 93 no longer bogs down and crawls across the dam. The security of the dam in enhanced now that traffic is safely diverted away from it. Also with the heavy traffic from US 93 elsewhere, the actual touring of the dam itself is much safer.

While the bridge is toll free, visiting Hoover Dam itself has suddenly gotten very expensive. They now charge $7 to park in the garage, $30 / person for the tour of the Dam, and $8 / person just to get into the Visitor Center. So it will cost a family of four $159 to park, take the tour, and visit the Visitor Center. Wow!

Is it worth it? You bet. But Wow! Nonetheless.

The Scaler Sculpture With The Bridge Beyond

(This Sculpture Was Added in 1995)

Oskar J.W. Hansen's 30' Tall Bronze Winged Figures of the Republic

(Polishing the Toes Brings Good Luck)

OK, so when one walks the length of the new bridge and then drives back to visit Hoover Dam, one observation becomes very apparent - a jarring lack of art. The bridge aesthetic is limited solely to its structure. There was no attempt to integrate art into its materials of construction, physical shape, and the displays and interpretive materials are pretty weak.

Conversely, the design of the dam was halted by Harold Ickes (head of the Bureau of Reclamation) when he felt that the initial designs were not successful in integrating art into the planning effort.

This led to Los Angeles architect Gordon B. Kaufmann being brought in to recompose the dam's overall aesthetic.

As a result a new deco modern shape was created for the dam. It is the shape recognized and admired around the world today. It carefully integrated bass relief and dynamic sculptures into dam planning. Artwork included themes of water conservation, power, along with Native American influences.

Extreme Drought Has Resulted in Exposing the Dam's Stunning Intake Towers

Keep in mind this passion for design in the Hoover Dam project was all carried out during the Great Depression. In direct contradiction to today when artwork is frequently vilified in public projects as being wasteful, during the depression the incorporation of art in public projects for the WPA was viewed as an essential way to inspire the American public.

Despite all odds, the design of the dam demonstrated then and now the collective national will to succeed and prevail, not merely endure. It proves that society never has to apologize for incorporating beauty into its great public works projects.

Allen Tupper True's Swirling Terrazzo Designs

Featured Navajo and Pueblo Motif's

So, despite being an engineering marvel and a tribute to the resourcefulness of its builders, the bridge clearly suffers from a tragic lack of imagination in its overall form and design.

The bridge left me with the overwhelming sense that it lacks soul. In my opinion, it represents an opportunity not fully realized.

The Valley of Fire

2011-04-04T22:14:00.022-07:00

Something Wonderful To Do Near Sin City

OK so let me get this over with. Pardon me whilst I clear my throat. Here goes.

I am the only guy on planet earth that doesn't "get" Las Vegas.

The Vegas Philosophy - "Come here, get stupid."
Roadboy's Philosophy - "Blow a paycheck at a casino that uses supercomputers to assure a minimum 3% take! Are you crazy?"

Think of it. How much must people really be losing when just 3%, skimmed off the top, pays for all of those mega casino's?

With my strict $5 limit, I am officially a casino's worst nightmare.

I don't buy any of that "what happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas" stuff. Not when every other billboard is for an attorney to aid you with your DUI.

What I do "get" are the amazing Cirque shows, airplane contrails trailing across an azure blue desert sky, buffets, big swimming pools, tours of Hoover Dam, mesmerizing lights at night, and neon clad drive-through wedding chapels.

There are even guided tours of the boneyard where all of the old neon signs from dead casino's go! I know. I tried to reserve a tour, only to find out that tours are always sold out two weeks in advance.

Truly, and my loved ones will vouch for this, if you give me a folding chair I'd sit happily for an entire evening in front of the Bellagio watching its fountain whilst singing "Luck Be A Lady Tonight" (or whatever tune the water happens to be dancing to.)

And no place on earth matches Las Vegas for Olympic Class people watching. Where else do you see guys wearing a sport coat over straight leg Lee's secured by a big moon hubcap arm in arm with a bimbette with platinum hair made seemingly of fiberglass?

Then every morning a fresh dawn brings the saddest time of the day in Vegas; broad daylight.

What to do?

I'll tell you what to do. If you are visiting in spring or fall, point that rented red mustang convertible east! Drive an easy 35 miles to Nevada's first state park; the Valley of Fire. Go there on the freeway, exit out the other end returning via the freshly paved Northshore Road (NV 167) in the Lake Mead Recreation Area.

Oh how I wished I had another day to spend and my road bike. Another time for sure.

My Kind of Road

Smooth, Lonely, 2-Lane Bliss

The Valley of Fire was founded in 1935 and was almost lost in during hard times in the 1950's.

Kids Exploring the Rocks

The park is simply a treasure. It has starred in many films. It is filled with petroglyphs, intense soft coral colored sand, and amazing piles of red rocks. It is home to lots of antelope ground squirrels, zippy lizards, roadrunners, and an occasional sidewinder.

The Red Rocks Dwarf Our Chariot

What A Pallette

Geology Sculpted By The Wind

Anasazi "Texting"

More Petroglyphs

My Beloved Contrails Slicing The Sky

A day in The Valley of Fire left me completely renewed.

Ready to go back and stare down Sin City.

Oh, and it is true, Liberace's Museum is indeed now closed.

Miracle Innovations in Travel

2011-03-29T00:36:00.013-07:00

Milestones in Modern Travel

In our daily lives we are surrounded by spectacular technological marvels. So much so that we simply yawn and take them for granted. I put hybrid automobiles, IMAX 3-D movies and central air-conditioning solidly into the category of "almost magic!"

Travel related marvels include the development of steamships, transcontinental railroads, and modern jets.

But there are those "other" achievements that are so deserving of recognition.

Herewith are the travel related Innovations I feel deserve hall of fame status:

1. Roll-a-board Luggage

Yep this is it. IMHO wheeled luggage constitutes the seminal innovation in travel during my lifetime.

After a decade spent lugging a fold-over Samsonite Silhouette II garment bag all over the planet, I know that wheeled luggage is the bomb.

Now, having said that, I am a purist and hate the new spinner models. They are kind of like my pound pups, cute, but sorta goofy.

2. Woolite

Yep. Woolite.

For years I resisted the urge to take those little packets on long trips. Then, on a trip to London, I found myself paying a couple hundred bucks to launder about 6 items.

Now, to be fair, the Marriott County Hall did fold everything with exceptional care, slipping little tissues between every fold. And they delivered it in a lovely wicker basket. Despite that the feeling that “I have been soooo ripped off “ did not diminish.

Nowadays, I bring a handful of woolite packets and wash everything in the bathroom sink of my hotel room. On a two-week trip the money I save using Woolite easily covers a couple of very nice Parisian dinners (with wine.)

3. The Euro

I love the Euro.

I remember my first trip to Europe and all the little skirmishes I had with my mom trying to figure out what things really cost in crowns, schillings, francs, guilders and lire. What a nightmare.

At every border you had to visit a little bulletproof kiosk to convert money from one currency to another, losing epic amounts of value in every transaction.

Heck, on that first trip to Italy, I remember the whole nation was simply “out” of change. To a kid from America, this was completely inconceivable. How could a nation simply not have the resources to make coins?

The situation was so dire that Italian phone companies issued their own coinage. They simply had no choice since government issued coins were virtually extinct and the ones you did come in contact with were aluminum and far too light to trigger the mechanisms in an Italian payphone.

As a result telephone tokens became Italy’s defacto national currency. When a shopkeeper ran out of telephone tokens they would offer a piece of fresh fruit, or even zots (cute little hard candies).

The coin thing provided me with my first “a-ha” moment as I lifted the veil and peered into the confusing soul of 1970's Italy.

Now, when we travel throughout the EU (except Britain) there is the Euro. For that I offer my profound gratitude.

4. The Lay-Flat Business Class Seat / Bed

Oh how I love Business Class. I remember my first trip in the upstairs business class bubble of a British Airways 747 that featured lay-flat beds.

Over the course of our 11-hour flight from Seattle to Heathrow I reveled in comfort. The situation was reinforced when I ventured down to visit my children seated in steerage. They had seats just inches from the doors to a couple of busy restrooms scented with that fragrant “magic blue water”. Making matters worse, my daughter had lost a contact and was squinting at her malfunctioning little TV screen. My son shot me a “daggers-to-the-heart” look that conveyed without a single word his evaluation of the state of transcontinental air travel.

Shaken, I slinked back upstairs to "the bubble" advising my spouse that “you don’t want to go down there”.

These days, I jealously guard frequent flier miles until I have enough to go Business Class. If I can’t go BC, I don’t go.

5. Grey Hair

On most domestic flights these days many flight attendants are eligible for AARP. That suits me just fine. If something goes wrong, I like knowing that this ain’t their first rodeo.

When other passengers (usually fat troll businessmen) moan about not having a twenty something trophy babe to ogle, I shoot them my best "Eat Feces and Die" look (I took notes from my son.)

6. Noise Cancelling Headphones

Oh yeah. They may be pricey, but noise-cancelling headsets are so worth it.

From my first flight using a pair of Bose headphones there was no turning back. I have lost two sets of the Bose units and now when I lose a pair I google "refurbished noise canceling headphones" to see what comes up. That is how I found my current Sennheiser’s at Amazon. Personal note, I actually prefer the Sennheiser's to my former pair of Bose.

Now, when that baby behind me starts sucking in the air needed to drive out an ear splitting shriek, I just flip the “Go Away” switch on my headphones and all is well with the world.

Now if someone can devise a way to eliminate seat kickers they will join my list…

7. In Room Coffee, Refrigerators, Safes, Irons and Microwaves

When I was a kid all I cared about was whether the hotel / motel dad picked had a swimming pool. If it had a pool it was cool. If not, it sucked.

As an adult, I look back and chuckle remembering all of those motel rooms with lumpy beds, wall hung lavatories, and tiny little bars of soap with names like “Lisa” or "Sweatheart" or "Cashmere Bouquet".

Lets agree that the hospitality industry has come a long way in a single generation.

8. Decent Airport Food

I realize this isn’t universal, but putting local food into airports is an emerging (and most welcome) trend. Now I actually plan trips through certain terminals just to grab some regional fare.

If I need to change planes in Cincinnati? No problem-O, a bowl of 5-way chili waits for me. In Oakland there is Fenton’s ice cream (and they dish up very generous scoops.) In Phoenix, Carmen Tafoya’s tamales await you at El Bravo in Terminal 4.

9. Frequent Flier Points

OK I admit it, I am a point hound.

I squeeze points out of every credit card. I know the deadlines for Marriott’s annual “Mega Bonus”. I keep track of my stays to make sure I retain my Diamond and Platinum hotel status each year.

You see, when I travel for fun, I love being able to take my friends, colleagues and family to the Concierge Lounge for breakfast, drinks and evening snacks.

Concierge breakfasts are usually pretty awesome. Some, like the Hilton Molino Stuckey in Venice or the Cavalieri in Rome, are downright sublime. But more importantly, they save the family bank account in places like Rome where restaurant waiters (with a straight face) present you with a $40 per head tariff after delivering a couple of eggs, toast, and juice.

I believe that certain prices (see laundry above) are so absurd that any traveler not related to the Saudi royal family, is obligated to “just say no”.

10. Free Airport WiFi

Oh to the airports with it I say “You Go!”

To those that pimp overpriced Boingo hotspots (like O’Hare), I say shame on you.

There are many many other modern innovations I am thankful for: web enabled travel planning, intermodal mass transit connections, the list goes on.

And, of course, there are slip-on shoes......

Dependable?

2011-03-11T19:06:00.207-07:00

Terra Firma
Latin for "Solid Ground"

There are things we count on no matter what. The sun will rise in the morning. Tides will come and go. Seasons will change.

Unfortunately, we err when we rely on the stability of the earth beneath our feet. We simply expect it to stay put. We assume it will provide a solid place to build our buildings and carry out our lives. Sometimes, however, the earth shirks its responsibility to stay put, with horrifying consequences.

This week Japan was violently reminded that the ground we live on is nothing more than a series of eggshells floating around the surface of our planet.

For me, earthquakes have always been just a part of life. One of my very earliest memories is jiggling in a high chair during an earthquake. My mom reaching out to hold on to its tray with a smile.

Numerous times during my childhood she would whisper in my ear "its OK, its just a little earthquake".

After high school I started moving around the country a lot. And until my final move here to Phoenix, I have always lived in earthquake country.

The house my dad built was just a few feet from the Hayward fault.

When I lived in Anchorage we had earthquakes all the time. Two of them were actually pretty good jolts (7.0 and 7.1 respectively.) The difference was that Alaska, after the huge Good Friday quake, rebuilt itself to modern structural and geotechnical standards. Those quakes would have caused total mayhem in less prepared parts of the world. But in Anchorage we shrugged, checked to make sure the power was not flickering, then headed home like any other day.

In 1987, while living in the picturesque Town of Los Gatos, the Loma Prieta quake struck. While it was not California's dreaded "Big One", it was certainly a "Pretty Big One". It rolled out of the Santa Cruz mountains collapsing freeways, a section of the Bay Bridge, and jolting the World Series to a halt.

I guess we are just cockeyed optimists. Every few years without fail some Southern California mansions along the PCH will be washed away in a big Pacific storm. Similarly, along the Outer Banks every other season homes are destroyed by Atlantic hurricanes. But, as soon as the lots are cleared, a for sale sign goes up, and soon someone else starts drawing up plans for their next disposable bazillion dollar dream home. Even in Anchorage pricey homes pop up every day all over the Turnagain bluffs. This land will simply collapse into a mud pile in the next big Alaskan quake.

The most recent disaster will certainly result in travelers taking Japan off of their bucket list of destinations to visit.

It shouldn't.

Japan, like San Francisco or Istanbul, is simply a place where people live with the inevitability of earthquakes.

In Japan we know the industrious residents will put their shoulders to the yoke and come back better for it. They always do. The fact of the matter is, no place in the world is better prepared to address the consequences of earthquakes than Japan.

As for Roadboy. My family has always loved Japan. Among us, we have made many, many visits to experience its amazing people, sparkling cities, wonderful food and rich culture.

So, for now we pray for the people of Japan.

"At your command all things came to be: the vast universe of interstellar space, galaxies, suns, the planets in their courses, and this fragile earth, our island home"

Excerpt of Eucharistic Prayer C
The Episcopal Book of Common Prayer

Roadboy's Travels © 2011