Police Chief's, Occupy Chicago, and the Silver Streak

Chicago's Welcome Mat

Everyone that knows me, knows I love Chicago. It is home to great buildings, great food and some of the best people anywhere.

This week I returned to Chicago for the International Association of Chief's Police (IACP) Convention. For law enforcement executives worldwide this is the biggie. They come to think out loud, network, lobby and shop.

IACP originated right here in Chicago when 51 Chief's came together at the famous "White City" World Exhibition in 1893. That was the wildly successful fair that attracted 27 million visitors during its run (for reference purposes - that was half the population of the United States in 1893).

This is the fair that introduced the world to George Ferris's amazing wheel, juicy fruit chewing gum and Pabst Blue Ribbon Beer - Roadboy's favorite "everyday" beer!

Now with 16,000 members from 94 countries, this is the definitive symposia for law enforcement executives from around the world. There are seminars, educational programs and an exhibition hall filled with every conceivable piece of equipment and software imaginable.

Need a Helicopter? Driving Simulator? Road Spikes? Radar Gun? Armored Car?

The culmination of the serious part of the convention was the Police Executive Research Forum's Town Hall Meeting were ideas flow from the most dazzling minds in modern policing. This year the focus was on reducing gun crimes. The discussion was animated, honest and unvarnished. It was also inspiring to hear pure passion from leaders like Commissioner Ramsey of Philadelphia as they focus on ways to make their communities safer.

The most fun part of the convention was the Host Chief's Party held in Chicago's Museum of Science and Industry. Built for the 1933 "Rainbow City" Century of Progress Worlds Fair, the museum is a marvel. It is big enough to house steam locomotives, the Burlington and Quincy Zephyr (otherwise known as the Silver Streak) and now features a new home for the German U505 U-Boat. This is the submarine that we secretly captured. The world, however, was led to believe we sunk it and all aboard were lost. The capture provided the Allie's an enigma machine to use to decode Germany's previously "unbreakable" Atlantic transmissions.

The U505

Hitler's Precious Enigma Coding / Decoding Machine

The First Streamline Zephyr

(Mom treasured the coin it smashed on its initial run behind her Quincy Apartment)

Since the weather was mostly beautiful. Roadboy did what he loves to do - walk. And what a walk it was.

Chicago was still warm and ablaze in flowers. And with winter seemingly minutes away, Chicago's sidewalks were full with people enjoying the last gasp of fall. 

I ogled the fine cars and the historic water tower on the Gold Coast. Then headed south. 

The Water Tower

Along the way was some dazzling window shopping, with stops in the Ted Baker shop and London's very cool AllSaints Spitalfield's clothing emporium. The clothes in this store are made to look old and worn. They look especially good on very slender people about 30 years younger than me and are available in black or grey.

AllSaints Spitalfields

We then came upon J. Seward Johnson's giant Marilyn in front of the Tribune Building. She replaces  his equally huge take on Grant Wood's American Gothic, which resided here last year. While (clearly) no one is going to mistake this for fine art, there is some relevance in a City known for wind.  Oh and for those keeping track (at least in the sculpture) Ms. Monroe has 5 toes on each foot....

The Seven Year Itch

We then made our way to Millennium Park and thousands and thousands of Chicagoans marching to express outrage at the justice system's failure to prosecute some of America's most dangerous criminals; Wall Street's unrepentant banking / brokerage executives. 

Occupy Chicago

Once again, thanks Chicago!

Sunnyslope

Phoenix's Most Eclectic Urban Village Hosts Artwalk

If you ventured north on Central Avenue in Phoenix at the turn of the century you'd run out of city well before Camelback Road. After that you'd pass what would soon become row after row of fragrant citrus orchards. And, if you journeyed much further you'd come to North Mountain.

The Central Avenue Sunnyslope Gateway Pylons

(The North Mountain Preserve is Beyond)

According to the historical timeline published by John C. Lincoln Hospital, residents started coming to North Mountain in 1903 when the city of Phoenix prohibited tent camps within its city limits. 

Four years later retired architect (WR Norton) and his concert pianist wife built a house in a greasewood clearing at 8713 N. Central Avenue. They later built a subdivision they called "Sunnyslope" based on a remark their daughter made about how the morning sun washed North Mountain.

My Architectural Office

Resides Almost Directly on the Site of WR Norton's Estate 

By the 1920's Sunnyslope was home to prospectors, beekeepers, and artists. Others were there for health reasons requiring the services of Sunnyslope's Desert Mission. Sunnyslope's role in health services culminated in the John C. Lincoln hospital in 1954. Today it is a superb forward thinking hospital and the major anchor of the Sunnyslope community.

John C. Lincoln - Saving Lives 

Building Neighborhoods

In the meantime Sunnyslope earned a reputation for non-code compliant housing, poverty, ancient trailer parks, and drug dealing. It was written off by its neighbors to the south as just too poor and weird.

But a tireless core of community leaders never gave up on Sunnyslope. They fought every application for a liquor license, they grabbed public art projects right and left, they got drug dens bulldozed, and  nurtured its schools.

Today, those efforts and Sunnyslope's proximity to downtown, great high school, relative affordability, and funkiness attracts families, professionals, teachers, artists, architects and chef's.

It has become an incubator for creativity in art, food and architecture. It is one of the few urban villages in Phoenix with almost no chain restaurants.

Sunnyslope Incubates Design 

Into this mix comes the twice annual Artwalk in October and April. Artwalk now draws thousands of valley residents who walk up and down Central Avenue from the canal to Dunlap enjoying dozens of musicians and viewing the bounty of hundreds of artists.

Artwalk is Sunnyslope's finest hour. This year when the lights went out there were still hundreds of visitors filling Central Avenue. 

Part of Sunnyslope's Artwalk

So come see what is happening at the end of the Bridle Path. The North mountain preserve offers a great place to ride bikes or walk. Its canals are great for blading.

And come hungry! There's amazing quesadillas and burgers at Corbin's. If you want the best sandwich you've ever tasted, its the prosciutto and brie confection at Timo's.

For breakfasts try Scramble. Burgers at the Burger Studio beat Five Guys any day. Arguably Phoenix's largest collection of tequila resides at Via De los Santos, and the hands down best family style Mexican food in Phoenix is served with love 6 days a week by the Tafoya family at El Bravo. For Greek food go to Greektown. It resides in an old Pizza Hut. Just tell George to make you something amazing. Maybe his rack of lamb or sauteed (never fried) calamari.

Oh, and forget Starbucks, we don't have one. We have Grinder's Coffee. Where Dennis roasts and grinds his own beans, and spouts his politics. His politics may be questionable, but his coffee is great. If you ask him for a venti, you'll get his look. His big cup is referred to as "serious". On a friday night he's likely to be on the patio playing the blues.

Great Food and Drink

Perfect Food Served in a Lovely Garden Setting

Some of Sunnyslope's Extensive Public Art Collection

Lots of businesses and services call Sunnyslope home. There's Karl's understated, yet amazing, european bakery and his daughter Christine's artisan chocolate shop is right next door. Looking for something fun to do on a saturday? Try a chocolate making class the first saturday of every month! If you need tires we got em. If you would like a meticulously restored vintage falcon or t-bird, two generations of Dottling's can fix you up. Italian Deli? It's Tony's. You can shop for appliances at B&B. Need a friend? The Humane Society delivers furry rescue's who will unconditionally love you.

B&B's Appliance's Homage to the Maytag Man

Seeking eternal peace? We've got you covered there too....

Really, How Does One Measure This?

It's edgy and funky.

I love edgy and funky.

It's Sunnyslope!

Roadboy's Travels © 2011

Seattle's Olympic Sculpture Park

So Right!

Last week I had the good fortune of spending a couple of days in Seattle. After three months of searing Arizona heat, a day or two spent enjoying blue skies and 78° temperatures was tonic.

While I was grinning at my good fortune, my Seattle friends were complaining bitterly about "just one more Seattle summer that never arrived".

Since the parking for my rental car was paid for in the hotel, I decided to walk to my meetings. The walk was lovely. I walked from Lower Queen Anne, through the gentrification of Belltown, the eccentricity that is the Pike Place Public Market (including the original Starbucks,) and on to Pioneer Square. 

After a full productive day as I retraced my steps back to my hotel, I passed the Seattle Art Museum's (SAM) Olympic Sculpture Park just as the sun was setting. 

I don't know why, but I had never explored this park before. Shame on me.

It is another example of the Puget Sound's most famous computer bazillionaire's (Paul and Bill) being philanthropic.

The Park Neatly Knits Together Scraps of Post Industrial Land 

Zig Zagging Over Busy Roads and Rail Lines

Successfully Joining the Regrade With The Waterfront

As I explored the free (yes I said free) park I found the whole experience marvelous. Sadly, I was still "without camera" as my old Olympus croaked last week in Venice. So my pictures here are the best I could muster with my I-Phone.

The park itself spans over a major highway and the waterfront rail spurs all the way down to the waterfront. Along the way there are many sculptures and lots of red chairs (that you can pick up and move wherever you want!)

As I entered the park I passed many families setting out blankets for picnic dinners. Some brought food, others were buying dinner from the various food wagons in the park.

This Pig Can Party!

Me, I snagged a red chair, securing a spot next to "The Eagle" (Alexander Calder's 1971 giant orange steel sculpture) which graciously shielded me from the setting sun,) while affording a perfect venue to people watch as the sun drifted away.

A Perfect Place to Watch People and Soak Up A Sunset

Some of Seattle's Avionic Handiwork 

Emerges From Behind a Giant Sculpture

Thirty years ago I lived on the south slope of Queen Anne, just a few blocks from my hotel. In those formative (code: financially broke) days, I walked (rain or shine) to work. In 1979 this area was filled with sailor bars, barf, and plenty of squalor. Now it is filled with yuppies and art.

Go figure.

Blue Skies and Seattle's Most Famous Icon

The Scale of Some Of The Sculptures Was Astounding

Well I guess timing is indeed everything. And I honestly cannot think of anywhere I would have rather spent the waning hours of September 8th, 2011.

So, after an invigorating walk I ventured on to Kidd Valley in lower Queen Anne for a big old cheeseburger and bag of deep fried battered mushrooms.

Probobaly ingested a sufficient amount of grease to trim at least a year off my life.

Totally worth it!

Roadboy's Travel's © 2011

Italian Door Knockers

Elegant Arrivals!

Over the past couple of weeks I had the pleasure of doing a little vacationing in Italy. For an architect, Italy is a total sensory overload. Heck, for anyone with a heartbeat, Italy is a sensory overload. There's the food, vibrant countryside, history, music, fashion, you name it. 

For some reason this trip I found myself fixated on the incredible door pulls and knockers found on seemingly every door from the most humble to the most lavish. 

Some of them were very old, some I'm sure were replicas and fairly new. I didn't really care. I just shot a lot of photos of them in Venice, Florence, Sienna, Montepulciano, and Pienza. Enjoy!

 

The Door To The Murano Glass Showroom in Venice

 

There is something wonderful in transforming the most mundane everyday things in our lives into something magical!

Think about these next time you reach for boring smooth modern chrome door pull at the bank........

Roadboy's Travels © 2011   

Farewell Venice

A Quiet Sunday Stroll -  An Historic Sea Regatta

Written September 4, 2011

This morning when I looked out of my hotel window I produced an involuntary sigh. Tomorrow I fly home and rejoin my "normal" life, so today is bittersweet.

I enjoyed a nice big breakfast then stepped out of my hotel room with no specific destination in mind. Being my last day I thought I’d generally start walking to places I’ve yet to fully explore.

The View From My Hotel Room at The Molino Stucky

I had been notified that the hotel’s motor launch service to Piazza San Marco would be curtailed much of the afternoon. When asked the concierge was not sure why. However, once aboard the launch I was told today was Venice's annual regatta of historic oared sea craft. Cool! 

So I rode just across the Guidecca Canal to Zattere. From there I started walking toward the Punta della Dogana. 

The prominence of the Punta della Dogana is important. It is where the Giudecca Canal splits from the Grand Canal. Hence, it is the location of Venice's historic Customs House (now one of Venice's many art museums.) The location is superb as it is easy walking distance to the Guggenheim collection of modern art.

Since it was a Sunday morning Venice was still quiet. Initially my walk took me past all of the old Customs House warehouses. Many have been re-purposed to showcase art installations. I stepped into two; one featuring modern Arab art and the other student art. Some of the warehouses are used by Venice's various rowing clubs, which were all abuzz gearing up for the regatta.

As I came to the very tip of the Punta I could not help but notice Charles Ray's 8' tall stark white sculpture of a boy holding up a dead frog. Apparently, this was supposed to be a temporary installation (in 2009.) So I have to assume it is becoming more permanent. I also couldn't help but notice that a guard remained inches from the sculpture complicating my photo efforts.

However, when I reached my room and read about a madman vandalizing the fountain of the Moors in Rome's Piazza Navona, the guard made sense.

Boy With Frog is striking in size, siting, and stark white finish. Also it stands at the just below the 1677 era tower capped with the magical swirling weathervane Fortuna perched on a gilded globe supported by two atlases. 

Boy With Frog

Charles Ray 2009 - Los Angeles

(Across the Canal is San Giorgio Maggiore)

The Globe With Fortuna

Fortuna From San Marco

Much of the Punta della Dogana museum is scaffolded due to a major redesign by Tadao Ando. As I understand it his design respects the form of the original building. Guess I'll just have to come back and see that someday.....

I then turned the corner and there was the lovely Basilica Santa Maria della Salute. This is the cathedral built to thank the Virgin for the end of plague. The last time I was in Venice in 2008 it was covered by elaborate scaffolding, so it was wonderful to now see it complete. I ran the gauntlet of gypsy beggars and entered the Basilica. Being Sunday mass was underway inside. The Basilica is as breathtaking inside as it is outside.

Santa Maria della Salute

Mass in Session

I then crossed the canal aiming toward the Guggenheim. Before getting there I encountered another Biennale exhibit featuring modern (berserk?) works of art from China. Many of them featured imagery from American popular culture. One sculpture was a large Mickey Mouse in a state of arousal that would not be suitable for children. If artwork is a window to a culture's soul, well China has joined the rest of the industrial world's level of ambulatory schizophrenia........

Some of Biennale's Modern Chinese Art 

I then walked by Peggy Guggenheim's Museum. This is a must-see for anyone who appreciates the  modernist art she devoted her life to collecting.

Up till now my stroll had been as quiet as one would expect on a Sunday. But as I made my way toward the Academia bridge I found the crowds.

A Quiet Sunday Morning

As well as finding the crowds I also noted that everywhere I went the Venetian flag was being raised in support of the regatta.

The Venetian Flag Being Raised

I made my way to the Academia Bridge and enjoyed the views of the Grand Canal and the flowers blooming on the grounds of the Institute of Science Letters and Art.

The Grand Canal 

From here the crowds started to develop and remained that way for the rest of the day (despite it raining a bit later in the afternoon.) As I walked I realized how much I love the gondola's and wooden water taxis' that are all over Venice. They, in my opinion, are true works of art. 

A Typical Venetian Water Taxi

From here I enjoyed some window shopping. Venice has superb shops of every sort, but I love the leather, paper, superb Murano glass, and lush Fortuny fabrics.

Amazing Leatherwork

At this point my little Olympus Stylis camera bit the dust. As it is my second Olympus to die prematurely (usually minutes after the warranty expires,) I guess my affection for Olympus is officially over.

As I made my way back to the Grand Canal I got to see the amazing Regatta and snapped a few photos with my old I-phone. Hence, the quality of the photo's is lowwwwwww.

Regatta Splendor

More Eye Candy

From here is was a stroll back to Zaterre to catch a lift back to the Molino. Like all good things, this visit to Italy is drawing to a close. Time to start packing. 

Roadboy's Travels © 2011