Roadboy's Impressions of Lisbon

Hill's and Azure Blue Water

I didn't know much about the history of this beautiful city before my arrival, but this trip will certainly be the catalyst for me learn about Portugal's capital city.   

After two days in Lisbon - here is what I do know.

I know we arrived at a low tech airport that worked fine.

I know the new airport subway station made it a piece of cake to zip from the airport all the way downtown.

I now know this city is filled with amazing Lisboetas whose daily conversations have a lot of "shhh shhh" sounds in them.

I know Lisboetas are working to preserve a unique culture, music, history, cuisine, and language. It is hard to be "me" when you are a relatively small country sharing many traits and a long border with a huge and boisterous neighbor (like Spain!)

Then there is Lisbon itself. Perhaps more than any city I've ever seen, it reminds me of San Francisco. It has hills, a spectacular suspension bridge, old and new pubic transport working side by side, interesting young residents, stunning architecture, tourists everywhere, and breathtaking views of a lovely bay. 

Hills, Castles, and Rio Tejo Beyond 

So far Miss M and I have walked (and walked, and walked). We have gotten quite lost (I did, she figured out where we were). We have slept all the wrong hours and eaten at the wrong times.

In Lisbon things run on their own well choreographed schedules. They get up early, then work, then stop to enjoy a long leisurely lunch. Then it is siesta. Then back up in the late afternoon. Stores reopen, work goes on. Then they stop, call it a day and go get their families. Around 9 or 10 they are back out strolling. They start eating dinner around 9 or 10:00 PM. Most go back to bed. Many go have some wine and party till 3 or 4. 

Lisbon is alive with tourists by day and Lisboetas by night.

Been working pretty good for them for a long time. No rush hour. 9 to 5 looks kind of boring to me now.

Plaza's and Sidewalks 

are Masterworks in Mosiac Pavement 

Art Meets Function

And of course while Mr. Type A architect is looking at sidewalks, Miss M is pointing out all the little lizards and making me look up to see all the bats zipping through the air as the sun sets.

Bright Funiculars

And Ancient Trams

Ply Lisbon's Many Hills 

Lisbon Glistens at Night

Rich in Plaza's "Pracas"

(Notice the Ipanema Beach Walk Paving Motif)

Then there is the food. Fresh, fried, poached, boiled and canned seafood. Yesterday I had a dish of eucalyptus flavored ice cream(!?)

Today we are off to The Oceanario!

I've done the math. Four days = not even close to enough time to experience Lisbon.

More to come!

Roadboy's Travels ©2012

Madrid in August

Where Did Everyone Go?

We are Phoenician's. We are used to thermonuclear summer days and evenings. So when all of the travel guides advise against visiting Madrid in August we laugh. Like Paris, Madrid just empties out in August - Castilians escape by the trainload to all points north or to their beautiful Iberian beaches.

Bear and Madrono Tree 

(The Heraldic Symbol of Madrid)

At the Puerta del Sol

(Madrid's Gate of the Sun)

So what does that leave for a contrarian tourist visiting Madrid in August? Well - super discounted seats in business class and plush hotel rooms at deep discounts.

Works for me.

Anyway, when we arrived we found Madrid's lush green shade trees everywhere in profusion. We found water splashing from its sparkling fountains. The stunning Prado could be visited sans any queue. Ditto the regal Palacio Real de Madrid. And getting anywhere on the Metro? It was easy, cheap and had empty trains at 5:30 PM. Yep, every train, going any direction.

King Philip IV 

Equestrian Fountain

Plaza de Oriente

(Bronze Weight Distribution Engineered by Galileo) 

This trip we took all of our first day to visit The Prado. This is Spain's most important art museum. Nowhere else on earth will you find such a collection of all of the European masters plus the definitive collection of El Greco and Goya.  It deserves a day. But, with jet lag and all we made it about 3 hours and then started to walk into walls. We returned to the hotel, hit the Concierge Lounge, and slept for 13 hours straight.

Today we strolled. I mostly looked up and photographed building tops. Miss M looked out and watched the passing parade of humanity.

Why I Look Up!

We climbed to the new observation deck at the CentroCentro Arts Building. We stopped to watch street performers, enjoyed amazing smoothies at the Mercado San Miguel, and visited Spain's Palacio Real de Madrid.

The largest palace in Europe, containing 2800 rooms and coming in a fuzz under 1.5 Million SF. Many ornate rooms are on display, but the Royal Armoury, with its display of equestrian suits of armor, alone was worth the admission. Alas no photos allowed. The palace is used almost exclusively for state ceremonies.

Our day ended at the old Attoche Rail Station, now home to a huge tropical garden. Great place for a glass of Spanish wine. 

Madrid From the Observation Deck of the 

New CentroCentro Arts Center  

The Palacio Real de Madrid

Olives, 

Summer Fruits,

Fresh Seafood, 

and Fine Spanish Ham

Abound in the Lovely Restored Mercado San Miguel

A headless Human Statue Charms Kids 

at Plaza Mayor

Lots of culture, great food and drink, and a total break from relentless presidential political coverage! News flash! The rest of the world thinks we're dopes for our endless campaigns! Duh!

Tomorrow on to Lisbon!


Roadboy's Travels © 2012

And They're Off!

Ok lets run through it one more time....

Housesitter instructions updated?
Check!

Bills paid?
Check!

Travel Cash?
Check!

Credit card issuers notified?
Check!

Dogs got their meds and especiale food?
Check!

I-phone Euro-enabled?
Check!

Passport copies in the office safe?
Check!

Packing all done?
Check!

I think we are all ready! So dear readers my next few posts will be from Madrid, Lisbon, and Barcelona!


Roadboy's Travels © 2012

Gettysburg - The Northernmost Battle

From Gettysburg to the Death of a President


Updated 3-9-2013 and 1-11-2013

I am certainly no scholar of the Civil War. In fact, prior to visiting the wonderful new visitor center, restored cyclorama and battlefield at the Gettysburg National Battlefield Park last week, my knowledge of the battle was limited to Abraham Lincoln's ten sentence address delivered November 19, 1863 to dedicate a new cemetery.

The Gettysburg Cyclorama

Painted by Paul Philippoteaux in 1883

Fully Restored and Housed at the New Gettysburg Visitor's Center

Architects note: A peek into the trees along Cemetery Ridge reveals the abandoned Cyclorama Theater designed by modernist Richard Neutra

Update 3-9-2013

According to an article posted this morning in the online version of Architectural Record Richard Neutra's Cyclorama building was demolished Saturday March 6. The National Park Service announced that the ridge top site of the building will be restored to its natural configuration before visitors arrive next summer. 

The site was important to Neutra as a symbolic gesture to bring people together in consideration of the cost of battle. His vision clearly did not stand the test of time.

Update 1-11-2013

If you want to see the Neutra buidling better look quick! This morning, after a 14 year battle with preservationists, the National Park Service announced they have budgeted $3.8 million dollars to commence the immediate demolition and removal of the Neutra Cyclorama building restoring the open land on Cemetery Ridge prior to the battle's 150th Anniversary. 

With some irony I note that the now historic modernist building was commissioned and built to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the battle. History is a funny thing. Frequently it is not a question of history, but more of a question of "Whose History?"

After my visit however I find myself humbled.

I am humbled at the magnitude of the battle and its significance to American history. I allowed a couple of hours for my visit. Many hours later I realized my I had just scratched the surface of history. Gettysburg must be revealed a layer at a time. It was really a series of separate battles at Little Round Top, the Peach Orchard, the Wheat field, along Cemetery Ridge, at Culp's Hill and the Devil's Den. 

Why Gettysburg?

With much of the South's industrial, transportation and agricultural infrastructure in ruins (or in the control of Union forces), Lee took the battle North in an attempt to provide an opportunity for the South to start to replant and rebuild its shattered infrastructure. He did not plan to have a battle at Gettysburg, it was just fate that he encountered Union forces there.

Gettysburg was as far north (the "High Water Mark") as Lee got, and the battles of July 2-3, 1863 made it a turning point in the Civil War.

In preparation Union forces assumed a "J" hook formation along Cemetery Ridge. Ignoring General Longstreet's repeated warnings that the strategic high ground of the Union would lead to catastrophic casualties, Lee was convinced he was close to breaking the back of the Union. Unable to verbalize the order, he raised his hand authorizing battle.

The Memorial Where Armistead Fell

Coins Placed Atop for Luck

(The Stone Marks the Northernmost "High Water Mark" of the Confederacy)

Wave after wave of Confederate soldiers crossed open fields falling to Union canons firing canister loads. Finally, at The Angle, Pickett's Charge broke through Union lines resulting in hand-to-hand fighting. Confederate Brigadier General Lewis Armistead led the charge doing battle with forces commanded by his longtime friend, Union General Winfield Hancock. Both were wounded. Armistead perished from his wounds. The battle at The Angle represented the "high water mark" or the farthest point north the Confederate troops battled during the civil war.

The 72nd Pennsylvania Monument at "The Angle"

(A US Supreme Court Decision Was Required to Site This Monument)

A View Into The Devils Den

Seeing the carnage, Lee realized Longstreet was right. He met his retreating soldiers admitting it was "all my fault".

Lee Receiving His Returning Troops

Yet the war continued.

Lincoln was narrowly re-elected.

Lincoln's March 4, 1865 inaugural address stressed reconciliation:
"With malice toward none; with charity for all; with firmness in the right, as God gives us to see the right, let us strive on to finish the work we are in; to bind up the nation's wounds, to care for him who shall have borne the battle, and for his widow, and his orphan - to do all which may achieve and cherish a just and lasting peace, among ourselves, and with all nations".

Five months later Lee surrendered at Appomattox.

Five days after Lee's surrender Abraham Lincoln was assassinated at Ford's Theater.

For me, after Gettysburg it seemed important to visit the Lincoln Memorial and Ford's Theater.

President Lincoln's Box at Fords Theater

Inside The Lincoln Memorial

The Lincoln Memorial

So instead of Lincoln being able to fulfill his aspirations for a peaceful national re-unification, his assassination soured public opinion and paved the way for the election of Ulysses S Grant. Grant delivered one of our most flawed and wretchedly corrupt presidencies.

History derailed Lincoln an his plans.

History pivots this way and that.

We just go along for the ride.

Roadboy's Travels © 2012
  

Colorado

Enduring Tragedy at a Movie Theater in Aurora

Most of my dad's family hale from Colorado. Over the years I have spent many happy summer's (and a few Christmas') there. 

It is always beautiful. 

It is filled with independent thinking, hearty, hard working, and artistic people. Many of whom are deeply in love with nature. I have been lucky enough to return there over and over for work and pleasure.

So today when a senseless tragedy exacts a terrible price with innocents purposely harmed, as a traveler I urge everyone to carefully disassociate tragedy with place. 

Norway is not at fault any more than Virginia Tech, or Columbine, or Tucson, or Oklahoma City, or Ground Zero. 

So at least for today lets all agree...

We are not from one nation or another. 

  We are not from one state or another. 

    We are not from one political affiliation or another. 

      We are not from one religion or another. 

        We are simply brothers and sisters...

          Who grieve.

Roadboy's Travels © 2012

The Grand Canyon Railway

A Very Civilized Journey Indeed

Somewhere in Arlington National Cemetery rests the remains of Bucky O'Neill.

O'Neill was an Irish immigrant who ventured west becoming a leader in territorial Arizona. He served as Mayor of Prescott, Sheriff of Yavapai County, and one of Teddy Rosevelt's original Rough Riders. He was also an energetic advocate for the development of a rail line to the Grand Canyon.

His death in Cuba in 1898 deprived him from realizing the fulfillment of his railroad dream with the completion in 1901 of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Grand Canyon railroad.

The railway was the key to the mass access of the Grand Canyon, opening some 7 years before the Grand Canyon's designation as a National Monument (now a National Park.)

The rail service served miners, explorers and tourists alike for 67 years smoothly connecting with daily rail service from Chicago to Los Angeles. 

A View From The Dome

In 1968, on its final run, carrying just 3 passengers, the Grand Canyon railway quietly ceased service. 

It lay dormant for two decades, until in 1989 efforts began to re-establish service. And, in 1990, rail service was resumed.

Today the Grand Canyon railway reduces 40,000 auto trips into the park annually.

The rolling stock is all meticulously maintained. Our "Grand View" vista dome car was renovated in 2011 and originally served as part of the legendary California Zephyr.

There are four comfortable classes of service. Coach has big bench seats. First Class has recliners and includes refreshments. The Vista Dome and Parlor cars are limited to Adults.

If you are a member of AAA (and can snake your way through a convoluted website to find the discount) you can save 10% on your fares.

The train departs Williams for a relaxing 2 hours trip to the South Rim. Northbound there are singing cowboys onboard. Southbound there are desperado's who hold up the train.

I have always wanted to enjoy a meal in the El Tovar historic dining room. So at 11:30 AM as soon as the train doors opened at the Grand Canyon Station (which is just below the historic El Tovar hotel), I sprinted up and booked tables.

Lunch, service and atmosphere were perfect.

El Tovar

An El Tovar Dining Room Mural

A Fourth of July 

Chocolate Taco!

After lunch we still had plenty of time to gasp at views of the Canyon itself. I've returned to the Canyon many times, yet nothing prepares me for that view. 

The Seventh Wonder of the World

Everchanging Colors

For those not staying on at the park, the train departs at 3:30 for its return to Williams.

The train does offer its own "hotel" in Williams, but it is overly priced and devoid of any real genuine character.

This rail trip isn't for everyone. It is not the way to visit the Grand Canyon if you are in a hurry or find no particular allure in rail travel.

For me it was a joy.

I vowed to make the trip again in the middle of winter when the ground is frosted and the desert trees are dusted with snow.


Roadboy's Travels © 2012

The People Without Water

Sunset Crater, Wupatki and Walnut Canyon

I briefly escaped the summer heat of Phoenix this week with a mini visit to spectacular Northern Arizona.

I had three goals, find temps in the 70's, revisit some national monuments and ride the train to the Grand Canyon (which will be a separate post).

To those who have visited the four corners region, the history of its ancient people is fascinating. They had advanced cultures, built elaborate pueblo's and cliff dwellings and developed various farming techniques.

Wupatki Pueblo

(Click to Enlarge Any of These Photos)

Most of the tourists visiting the region go to the Grand Canyon, zip up to Las Vegas, maybe loop back to Mesa Verde or Sedona. Few will venture just outside of Flagstaff to the three fascinating and easy to reach destinations showcasing the power of nature and the remarkable engineering skill of Arizona's first residents.

Wupatki and Sunset Crater National Monuments are just north of town and Walnut Canyon National Monument is just east.

Wupatki National Monnument

Wupatki was established by President Calvin Coolidge in 1924 to preserve the Citadel and Wupatki Pueblo's. Years of vandalism and theft had taken a stiff toll.

Pueblo Detail

Access to the site was enhanced when in 1933 some of the 2 million men working in the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps) began working throughout the Grand Canyon region. At Wupatki they stabilized the pueblo's themselves, built roads, trails, and much of the facilities and infrastructure that serve the monument's today.

According to National Monument literature:

"For its time and place, there was no other pueblo like Wupatki. Less than 800 years ago, it was the tallest, largest, and perhaps the richest and most influential pueblo around. It was home to 85-100 people, and several thousand more lived within a day’s walk. And it was built in one of the lowest, warmest, and driest places on the Colorado Plateau."  

Although human history in the region spans 10,000 years, settlement at Wupatki was the direct result of the volcanic activities of Sunset Crater a hundred years earlier which forced inhabitants near the present day crater to abandon their pithouses near the volcano zone.

The location of the new pueblo's were suited for the trade networks of the time (copper, turquoise, shell jewelry and parrots.) Wupatki residents arrived around 1100. By 1250 they were gone.

Fragments of The Wupatki Community Pueblo

The pueblo's are easy to reach by foot and offer a rare glimpse into an amazing society.



Sunset Crater

In 1930, 6 years after Wupatki National Monument was established, President Herbert Hoover (spurred by local pressure) designated Sunset Crater as a National Monument to protect its geological formations. His protective efforts were triggered by the 1928 attempt of a movie company to blow up the crater.

In year 900 Sunset Crater literally emerged before the eyes of the inhabitants of the region. They had lived in pithouses and farmed amidst the rich pine forests and meadows of the region. After the eruption they moved on to Wupatki and Walnut Canyon. Their descendants are now the Zuni, Hopi and Navajo tribes.

Anyone walking the trails at Sunset Crater is rewarded by views of its moonscape lava fields and the  deep colors of the cinders lining the banks of the crater itself.

The Lava Fields

Sunset Crater's Cinder Fields Appear Almost Like Water

Walnut Canyon

My favorite stop of the day was Walnut Canyon National Monument. The oldest of the three National Monuments, Walnut Canyon was established by President Woodrow Wilson in 1915.

In 1125, at the very same time the Wupatki Pueblo was being constructed, the Sinagua (Spanish for "People Without Water") people were creating elaborate cliff dwellings in Walnut Canyon where they farmed, hunted, traded, and gathered useful plants

Similar to Wupatki, Walnut Canyon was abandoned in 1250 with the Sinagua relocating southwest to new villages along the Anderson Mesa (eventually assimilating into the Hopi culture.)

The key to a visit here is walking the Island Trail (also created by the CCC) into the Canyon itself. The trail requires some effort (240 stairs) but amply rewards visitors with direct access to cliff dwellings, views of amazing rock formations and wildlife sighting.

The "Island" of Walnut Canyon

A Typical Cliff Dwelling Formation

Along The Island Trail

Swirling Rock Formations

As I walked through the cliff dwellings and considered how its residents had to continuously climb up and down the canyon itself (at 7,000 feet in altitude) to accomplish all of their daily activities, I found myself stunned at their tenacity. 

Also as I walked I witnessed hapless souls staring at their smartphones complaining that they could not get enough coverage in the canyon to text while hiking. 

I stopped and actually had a good laugh. We have become a society of such jerks.

For those that want to visit there is a special "Flagstaff" pass available to allow a years of access to all three sites.

So, grow up! Leave the smartphone in the glovebox and spend a day experiencing real life while hiking in these three national treasures!

Roadboy's Travels 2012