Cruising Costa Brava's Marine Preserves and Farewells

Cycling Dali's Landscapes in Spain - Day 10

Our final morning of biking began after a beautiful sunrise and a great hotel breakfast followed by a quick shuttle to the nearby docks of L'Escala to enjoy coastal cruise to Port de L'Estartit.

An Ocean Sunrise At Breakfast

Along the way we saw the rugged coast, an arch, fed the gulls and watched lots of scuba activity in the marine sanctuary.

 Boarding Our  Morning Cruise

 Feeding The Gulls

 A Fishing Boat Traverses the Sea Arch

 Isles Medes Marine Sanctuary

 Our Bikes Await At The Docks

Upon arrival at Port de L'Estartit we found our bicycles lined up for us to begin our final 17 miles of cycling. Along the way we had numerous views of the mountaintop Montgri Castle.

 Biking Through Cornfields and Apple Orchards

 The Greek Ruins at Empuries

As we concluded out final ride we passed the ancient Empuries Greek and Roman ruins next to our hotel.

 Returning To Our Hotel

Upon returning to the hotel we all turned in our bicycles for the last time and prepared for our farewell dinner.

The dinner began with the sampling of a variety of excellent local (Emporda) wines and then went on to a three course dinner (including a glorious poached pear desert) that would make any foodie happy. After saying our goodbyes and trading of contact information, it was time to pack our bags and get a good nights sleep before a morning return trip to Barcelona.

Roadboy's Travels © 2016

Cycling From Our Hillside Castle to the Sea

Cycling Dali's Landscapes in Spain's Costa Brava - Day 8 and 9

Day 8:

Today we rode 21 miles from Upper Emporda to Lower Emporda and our seaside spa hotel. 

 Cycling Through Small Villages in Upper Emporda

 Sunflower Fields Upper Emporda

Along the way we stopped in the village of Verges. Every year on Maundy Thursday the residents of Verges carefully perform a macabre dance that dates back to 1666; the Dance of Death. The dance symbolizes the Black Death and includes scythe bearing skeletons that dance while spinning in 360° circles to designate that no one escapes death. 

Verges

The festival celebrates the human triumph over plague.

From here we pedaled to our lunch stop at Mas Pi. In Catalan "Mas" means "home of". Here we had a spectacular family style feast served al fresco. Every dish seemed to eclipse the last, beginning with a sweet cold (frogs back) melon soup to exquisite skewers of lamb. The owner repeatedly came to make sure we were enjoying our feast.    

Our Lunch Host at Mas Pi

 

After Arriving at St. Marti d'Empuries where we checked into our lux oceanfront hotel Hostal Spa Empuries. The rest of the afternoon we were free to take a swim in the Mediterranean, secure a spa treatment or explore adjacent Greek and Roman ruins.

Hostal Spa Empuries

 View from My Hotel Spa Empuries

Day 9:

Today we rode 31 miles through farms and villages with a picnic lunch at the Aiguamolls Natural Reserve. Of all the rides so far today's was (for me) the only disappointment as it included a lot of time spent riding on very busy highways with small shoulders and really not much scenery.

The day however was salvaged by our visit to Salvador Dali's museum in his hometown of Figueres. While I put Dali into the same category as Andy Warhol (i.e. self promoting eccentrics), the museum offered me some additional insight into the artist. 

The museum was created from a theater that was partially destroyed by bombing in the Spanish civil war. The main seating area has become and outdoor forecourt showcasing Dali's raining limousine and lots of assemblage art.

The large stage area is now capped with a dome shaped skylight and features some of Dali's larger canvases. This is where Dali is entombed. 

We spent time in a smaller gallery that houses pieces Dali felt were some of his most important. 

We completed our main museum tour in a gallery featuring a full living room that becomes Mae West and a gallery with a huge ciueling fresco with Dali and Gala arising to heaven. 

The tour then moved to a bank vault gallery showcasing examples of the over-the-top jewelry he designed.

The Dali Museum

Ceiling Fresco - Dali and Gala

(Dali is identifiable by his moustache)

The Dali Museum 

(Covered in bread and capped with eggs)

Dali's Muse and Wife Gala

Dali Jewelry

The Eye of Time (1949)

Our day with Dali was capped with a wonderful dinner in a village near our hotel.

Roadboy's Travels © 2016

Gala's Castle (Pubol), Castell d'Empordaria, Paratallada and Pals

Cycling Dali's Landscapes in Spain's Costa Brava - Day 6 and 7

Day 7 began with a shuttle trip to Pubol; home of the caslte Salvador Dali gave to his wife Gala. After our tour we saddled up to ride through some lovely Catalan countryside.

"I give you a gothic castle"
       Salvador Dali

"I accept on one condition, that you only come to visit me by written invitation"
       Gala Dali

At the age of 66 (in 1970) surrealist artist Salvador Dali purchased and restored a castle in Pubol for his wife and muse Gala. 

Russian born Elena Ivanovna Diakonova was 10 years older than Dali. She was given the name Gala  to by her first husband Paul Eluard.

Dali's Muse and Wife Gala

At the time of the gift Dali and Gala had been married to for 36 years. In order to enable their marriage they sought (and received) a special Papal dispensation due to Gala's had previous marriage with Eluard (with whom she had a daughter Cecille). Gala hated motherhood ultimately abandoning Cecille (who passed away in 2016).

Throughout their marriage Dali and Gala engaged in a series of affairs (her lovers included Max Ernst, Andre Breton and her former husband Eluard). Dali encouraged her affairs. 

Gala was fond of entertaining young male "friends" in her castle.

Gala Entertained by a Friend

(Re-photo of a photograph on display in Gala's castle)

Gala appears in numerous works by Dali and he signed her name along with his  own to much of his art. Gala managed the wildly lucrative finances of Dali's artistic empire and died in 1982. She is buried in the crypt below the castle.

Gala's Main Hall

The first space a visitor experiences is a grand hall. The hall is ccomplete with a throne where Dali met the media. His crown (made of of forks) sits near the crown.

The Coffee Table Horse

Like much of Dali's life things are never quite what they seem. A closer inspection of the glass top coffee table in the living room reveals a stuffed full size horse in hte room below..

Dali Touches Are Added Everywhere

Warrior Medallion

Dali 

Seated In Front of the Warrior Medallion

(Photo from the web, attributed to Alan Warren)

Original Pool

Gala's swimming pool has been converted into a reflection pool. It is fed by trickling water from the mouth of a pretty scary looking Monkfish Dali designed. Dali was fascinated by certain animals (giraffes; which he deemed a mistake of nature for example).

Gala's Crypt

The side-by-side second crypt (with a hole between them to hold hands in death) was for Dali. He was instead entombed in his museum. 

Visiting the castle provides a unique window into the souls of two of the world's most prolific and eccentric humans of any era.

From Gala's Castel we completed our 19 mile bike ride to our spectacular hilltop Hotel Castell d'Empordaria. This spectacular hotel has just 38 rooms all with amazing views over the farmlands of Costa Brava. Interestingly Dali also tried to purchase this castle from previous owner's. 

He offered his artwork as payment. 

The owners declined. 

Approaching the hotel from the River Daro.

 

The current owner has restored and added on to the castle creating a spectacular property. On days when Tramontane winds rush from the Pyrenees the hotels outdoor spaces are protected by elaborately placed wind screens. Our visit included warm, sunny and calm wind days.

The Hotel and its Outdoor Pavilions 

Day 7

Today we rode 26 miles through the lovely medieval villages of Paratallada and Pals (where we lunched).

 The Medieval Village of Pals

Our Bikes in Pals

A Street Scene From Parratalada

So far our days have been blessed with abundant sunshine accompanied by perfect temperatures for biking.

Roadboy's Travels © 2016

Lake Centenys, Girona and The Game of Thrones

 Cycling Spain's Costa Brava - Day 4 and 5

Spending the weekend in Barcelona during its biggest festival of the year was pretty wonderful, but I was ready on Day 4 to board our shuttle for the City of Girona to meet our cycle guides and commence the bicycle part of our tour.

Upon arrival we checked into our hotel and had a cava reception, history briefing followed by a tapas dinner with our guides.

Our Guides Oriol and Carlos 

Present an Overview of the Costa Brava

Girona From a Hike on the Roman Walls

A Morning Tour of Girona

Our tour of Girona began in the historic Jewish Quarter. We went on the pass the Church of St. Felix and Girona's Cathedral. The newer portions of the city are separated from the historic core by a river spanned by a metal bridge designed by Gustav Eiffel (yes, that Eiffel). It is a hub for world class bicylists to train as it has perfect training terrain, a great year round climate and is near the sea and snow skiing in winter. Lance Armstrong owned a home here when training in Europe. 

It is home to the Michelin 3 star restaurant dubbed 2015's best restaurant of the year and replaced Dubrovnik as 2015's filming location for HBO's Game of Thrones.

Girona's Jewish Quarter  

 Stairs to Girona's Cathedral

After the tour of Girona it was time to be fitted on our bikes and take a warm up ride to Lake Centenys where we ate a picnic lunch.

Lake Centenys 

(Site of the 1992 Barcelona Summer Olympic Rowing Competitions) 

 Lunch at Lake Centenys

Prickly Pear Cactus Adorn a Mansion Near the Lake

My first impressions of the region fired happy on every front. Perfect weather, stunning scenery and Cactus that made a Phoenician feel right at home!

Tomorrow we begin with a tour of the castle Salvadore Dali purchased for his Russian wife Gala.

Roadboy's Travels © 2016

Fireworks, Human Pyramids and Dancing in the Street

Day 3 Sunday - A Day to Crash a Party in Barcelona

When my biological-clock awakened me early Sunday morning I decided to get up (rather than submit to a strong desire to roll over and try to catch a few more zzz's). I then used the time to wander around the area near the hotel.

For locals, Sunday's in Spain are reserved for family and many smaller stores remain closed until Monday. Even during La Merce, Barcelona kicks down a notch or two in the morning. And, instead of the usual throngs, there was just me, City trash crews and police officers on Las Ramblas.

Upon reaching the Plaza Reial I found a pervasive smell of sidewalk bleach, an iconic fountain (still switched off in night mode) and a whole bunch of sellers setting up for a Sunday Flea Market.

The Sunday Flea Market Begins

 The Paza Reial Fountain Hadn't Begun Operating

Now it was time to return to the hotel to enjoy a (pretty darned wonderful) Sunday Champagne brunch buffet. 

Rested and (very) well fed, it was time to begin a full day of exploring Barcelona during La Merce. And, now contrary to my early morning walk, Barcelona's  streets were beginning to get crowded.

First stop was the Cathedral where teams of all ages were performing traditional dance in large circles accompanied by a full band.

Dance Groups at the Cathedral

Then, we made our way (with seemingly everyone in the city) to Plaza Sant Jaume where there were teams creating human pyramids.  

 Crowds at Arriving to See The Human Stacks

 The Human Stacks

With crowds now reaching "overwhelming", we opted for some creative meandering to window shop, see the "giants" (the big iconic statues and beasts that are essential to La Merce parades) eventually arriving at the waterfront that afforded a chance to rest and watch the crowds from an outdoor cafe. 

 The Giants

More Giants

One of Many Human Sculptures

We returned to the hotel for a swim in the hotels almost ethereal basement spa pool. Recharged we sought out dinner (awesome hamburgers). We watched the crowds heading to the Fire Runs in their goggles and hats (I decided I was prepared enough to safely participate in that).

Finally, after sunset, La Merce 2016 ended with a spectacular pyrotechnical display at the Plaza De Espana which we were able to see from the hotel's roof top bar.

Fireworks Illuminating MontJuc's National Art Museum

It would be hard to have a more wonderful day in one of the world's best cities.

Roadboy's Travels © 2016