Thursday, April 26, 2018

Frank Lloyd Wright Legacy Bicycle Ride

Phoenix Architectural Touring on Two Wheels

I ride my bicycle year round in Phoenix. That probably means I'm a bit crazy. 6 months of the year biking is bliss, the other 6 months I just freeze a Camelback® hydration bag overnight before strapping it to my back before a ride. The cold melting ice and ice cold water helps a lot.

The other day I realized that one of my regular rides passes some pretty interesting architectural points of interest. So I thought I'd document it as a bike tour specifically designed to showcase a part of Phoenix's architectural legacy. It also includes some interesting examples by Frank Lloyd Wright.

For visitors to the valley consider beginning at the little strip mall on the S.E corner of 16th Street and Glendale Avenue. 

Here you can rent a high quality bike at the Trailhead Bike Cafe (Stop #1). Maybe make a stop next door at Sprouts (Stop #2) and stock up on a little fruit, some healthy snacks and some fluids. 

Update 6-2021 For Valley Visitors
Covid took its toll on the bike market nationally depleting inventories leaving few shops in Phoenix that currently offer bike rentals. The Trailhead Bike Cafe closed its 16th St. Store. I'd suggest checking in with the family run Grey Matter Bike Shop at 16th Street and Bethany Home where they still advertise that they will rent cruisers. 
 
Here's a link to Grey Matter: Grey Matter Bikes

REI near Paradise Valley Mall also still rents high quality "Coop" bikes. Main thing is if you arrive without a bike, you'll need to figure out where to rent and where you want to start this tour.   
 
Now, to begin the ride just walk up the hill to the Arizona Canal bike trail and begin your trip.

For residents, just grab your bike and start anywhere.

 
Stops #1 Trailhead Bike Cafe
Stop #2 Sprouts

This stretch of the AZ Canal bike trail offers a lot of pedestrian / bicycle underpasses reducing the places where you'll need to stop and cross some busy streets.

And I can't stress enough how important it is to be alert around cars in Phoenix. Actuarial reports are clear, Phoenicians are lousy drivers. So be alert and assume that some drivers here will be rude. Also remember it is Arizona so many will also be armed.

The first cross street you come to (East Maryland) has very little traffic. Here, I'd cross over to the north side of the canal as it offers an underpass at (busy) 24th Street.

When you emerge from the underpass you'll come to start the gravel portion of the trail and arrive at a white bridge leading to the Wrigley Mansion Club. Cross the bridge to the south side of the canal and keep riding east on the canal trail.  You'll be passing beneath the "little mountaintop cottage" William Wrigley built in celebration of his 50th wedding anniversary. The mansion has an amazing story which you can read here: Wrigley Mansion.

The Wrigley Mansion
Viewed From the Arizona Canal

Arriving at Stop #3 
The Arizona Biltmore

Soon you'll glimpse the front view of the mansion on your right and the first of two bridges over the canal that lead to the Arizona Biltmore Resort on your left.

 The Wrigley Mansion 
Just Below Piestawa Peak

The Arizona Biltmore has the distinction of being one of the only Wright "inspired" hotels on planet earth.  It is Stop #3. 

 
A Biltmore Bridge with Wright's Palm Inspired Concrete Masonry

When you come to the second palm motif concrete bridge cross it and ride up to a valet. They can direct you to the resort's bike racks. After locking your bike head into the lobby and ask the concierge for a grounds map with history of the hotel. Then begin your exploration through this massive and remarkable 1929 resort.

If you plan it right (arriving on a Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday at 10:00 am) you can take the official 1.5 hour tour of the hotel.

The Spire Atop the Aztec Room 
At The Arizona Biltmore

Contrary to what many believe, Frank Lloyd Wright was not the architect for the Arizona Biltmore. The architect was Albert Chase MacArthur. MacArthur was an architectural graduate from Harvard. As if that were not enough he was also an engineer and mathematician. Like many architects of the era, MacArthur found inspiration in Wright's work and retained him as a design consultant on the resort.

Wright's contributions to the hotel's design include the unique cast concrete masonry with its distinctive palm motif. Although Wright advised that the blocks should be square, MacArthur, the mathematician, opted instead for a rectangular shape he felt was more proportionately correct.

As you stroll the building and grounds Wright's inspiration is in evidence everywhere; the low ceilings, rooftop spires and slender steel columns.

The resort has been a coveted winter getaway for celebrities since the day it opened. Check out the little side hallway near Frank and Albert's restaurant for some great photos.

The timing of the hotel's opening, though could not have been worse due to the 1929 stock market crash. Just one year after construction, William Wrigley Jr. bought out the interests of all other investors and the Wrigley family became the hotel's sole owner for the next 43 years.

With Wrigley's ownership came the hotel's famed Catalina pool (reportedly Marilyn Monroe's favorite pool and the site where Irving Berlin penned White Christmas).

While touring the building, peek into the Gold Room (specifically to see its two magnificent tapestry / murals) and the star shaped Aztec Room with its deep fireplaces and gold ceiling.

Inspired? Good, get back on your bike and continue riding east along on the canal as it bisects the The Adobe and the Links golf courses. You might even see (nearby resident) Alice Cooper roll up to play a round at The Adobe.

When you reach 32nd street stop. Do not cross it. Instead turn left and head north (up the hill) for just a short ride to San Miguel Drive. Turn left (west) on San Miguel stopping at the crest of the little rise where you'll see a marker for "Alta Vista Estates".

 
Alta Vista Park Estates

Just above "Alta Vista" entry marker was the site of the Wright's stunning 1939 Rose Pauson House. Stop #4. Tragically, the Pauson house survived just 4 years before burning to the ground when an ember from the fireplace ignited drapes in 1943. Its "Shiprock" chimney (the only remaining fragment of the house) stood here until it finally crumbled in 2012. The site was considered so significant that N. 32nd St. was diverted in design to preserve the Pauson site.

 
The Rose Pauson Residence

Now proceed further west along San Miguel to N. 30th Street where you'll arrive at Stops #5 and #6 (Wright's 1952 Benjamin Adelman House at 5802 and the Jorgine Boomer Cottage at 5808 N. 30th Street). Both residences are privately owned so be respectful and view them from a distance.

Now retrace your steps back to N. 32nd street and cross at the crosswalk light onto Stanford Drive.

You've now crossed into Paradise Valley. Locals refer to it as "PV". PV is home to many of Arizona's wealthiest residents.

 
 "Welcome" Sorta
 
Be extra careful in PV as the police are notorious for citing bike riders for really stupid stuff. A police officer from a neighboring city told me even he got cited on his bike in PV for not "stopping at a stop sign".

Of course he had stopped (as recorded by both his Go Pro® and his gps). Despite that the citing PV officer informed him that "a full stop requires the cyclist step off a pedal and touch the pavement with one foot". Since that is total bunk, the ticket was voided. But just be aware.

Coming up pretty quickly will be The Hermosa (Stop #7). I've been known to stop in here for a drink on the patio or in The Hermosa's cozy bar.

While the Hermosa Inn has no connection with Frank Lloyd Wright, it is still pretty interesting in its own right. The Inn was created from the estate of Arizona's Cowboy artist Lon Megargee. Megargee's work includes 18 murals in the Arizona Capital. His famous sketch of a cowboy watering his horse is still found in finer Stetson hats.

Ask a server if you may poke into the the library as that is where Megargee's True West magazine covers are all carefully framed.

When you are ready head back to the bikes. Continue riding east on Stanford Drive toward Camelback Mountain. Along the was you'll roll past some very nice mid-century modern homes before the street ends at N. 44th street. 


Mid-Century Moderns

Starting Up The Hills

At the "T" interwsection light turn left up the hill on N. 44th St. As the road curves N. 44th Street becomes N. Tatum Drive. Stay on Tatum until you reach Lincoln Drive. N. Tatum can get busy so ride with care.  Cross Lincoln and take a water break at the Goldwater Memorial (Stop #8). While I find the proportions of Barry's statue to be odd, the landscaping here is lovely and there is a water fountain, so it is a good place to stop amd refill a water bottle.

When ready continue pedaling up Tatum to the crest of the hill.


Here, at the top on the right is Stop #9 Wright's 1954 Harold Price Sr. residence. Price is the same Oklahoma oilman who commissioned Wright's only constructed "highrise"; the 19-story Price Tower in Bartlesville Oklahoma.Which now, coincidentally has been repurposed into a boutique hotel.

Just 4 years before his death Wright designed this sprawling 5,000 square foot residence for Price with a roof that seems to float above the home itself.I believe it is now owned by the family "that owned the U-Haul" trailer rental company. Again this home is in private usage so be respectful.

After viewing the Price house from the street turn around and retrace your ride Tatum to Stanford (now all downhill!). Ride west on Stanford to N. 40th Street and turn left (south) back to link back up to the AZ Canal. If you are hungry consider stopping at Chelsea's Kitchen. With its big patio and lots of bike parking CK is always a good choice.

Chelsea's Kitchen

From here rejoin the south side of the AZ Canal trail and retrace your ride west along the canal back to the Trailhead Bike Cafe to turn in the bikes.

More by Car....
Although there are many other Wright buildings throughout Metro Phoenix, I recommend the following 3-4. Sadly, they are not bike friendly, so consider driving to see these.

1959 Norman Lykes Residence
Head out of the Sprouts parking lot driving east on Glendale Road (which will soon become Lincoln Drive). When you arrive at N. 36th Street turn left (north) and drive up into the little slot canyon where you may enjoy a nice view of the Norman Lykes house. This is one of the last homes designed by Wright, construction was actually deferred until 1967. It is a really special home with a stunning view.

The First Christian Church
Now head back to Lincoln Drive and drive west. Continue past Central Ave. to N. 7th Avenue. Note that any N/S street west of Central Avenue is a numbered "Avenue" and any N/S street east of Central Avenue is a numbered "Street".

Turn left (south) on N. 7th Avenue and you'll soon see the tall concrete bell tower on your right. This is Wright's First Christian Church (6750 N. 7th Avenue). This church was faithfully built in 1972 using the plans Wright created in 1949 for the (unbuilt) Southwest Christian Seminary.

1951 David and Gladys Wright Residence
This very special residence is only open for special events, so plan accordingly.  It was designed by Wright for his son David and his wife Gladys. The couple lived in the house until their death (David passing in 1997 at 102 and Gladys passing in 2008 at the age of 104).

The very vocal and wealthy Arcadia neighbors have forced access to the house (when it is open) from an obscure little gate in the back parking lot of the Camelback Church of Christ. Truly absurd.

You can see photos of it here: David and Gladys Wright House.

And....
Many visitors plan to see Wright's Taliesin West studio in North Scottsdale and/or Wright's 1959 Grady Gammage Auditorium on the ASU campus in Tempe.

Taliesin offers a variety of tours. Tours there are sort of dense in the "Cult of Frank" so I'm not a big fan. Gammage is open for performances but in this architect's opinion it is a hot mess architecturally. While some rave about it, I am not a fan of the slavish circular forms, steep balconies and odd sight lines. The design was actually created for a site in the Middle East, but then was site adapted for Tempe.

Even geniuses must be forgiven for an off day.


Roadboy's Travels © 2018
 

Saturday, March 31, 2018

A Weekend in Austin

And An Open Mash Note to Austin's New Library

Roadboy just finished a weekend trip to Austin Texas. Timing was good; nice spring weather and the South by Southwest (SXSW) crowds had all left.

Sadly, in the days before the trip Austin had suffered from a series of random bombings.  As it turned out the psycho bomber self-destructed just before I arrived and city folks were venturing out with confidence again.

I've visited Texas' Music City many times over the years (mainly for work) and admit to having a soft spot for the City and it's boundless energy.

With each visit however, I find Austin a little less "Weird" and a bit more "Manhattan". But, it is still danged cool in my book.

My visit had no particular agenda other than to spend time with a friend, eat some good food, listen to some music (of which there is no shortage in the Capital of Texas) and go visit its new main library.

I met my friend at the larger than life sculpture of US Representative Barbara Jordan (a personal hero). We traveled directly from Bergstrom Airport to a casual dinner under the trees at Austin's hipster Central Market. Dinner was accompanied by some great Cuban inspired band. And, the evening progressed some pretty good dancers (and some energetic tykes) were inspired to avail themselves of the music and the lovely evening.

Saturday the big "A" architect in me opted for visit to Austin's newly opened downtown library. We rode the bus downtown enjoying some spirited conversation with fellow riders excited to offer sightseeing advice.

The New Austin Public Library

Architects are mercilous detail freaks. We scrutinize every detail of any building we visit. Sadly, we usually find more to fault than to admire. 

Well, after a whole lot more time spent poking around this building than I'd planned, I found myself just in awe of this new civic masterpiece by the Joint Venture of Lake Flato and Shepley Bullfinch. This design team just didn't miss much of anything.

The View Through The Central Atrium

The library is filled with art and comfy furnishings for every mood. There is a roof terrace with great views, acoustics are great and finishes are perfect.

Everywhere I looked there were electrical outlets and my phone indicated robust free WiFi from rooftop to the quiet reading rooms.

The Rooftop Terrace

I also offer admiration to the builders. They delivered a level of quality and finesse Austin residents should really be proud of. 

Attention To Detail is Exhibited Everywhere

From what I understand the building suffered from months of delays and a series of budget increases, but the value of the extra time and money is on display for everyone to see; truly a new civic treasure.

New Streetscape, Bridges and Pedestrian Walks Surround the Library


The exhibition galleries (that had a great show featuring Singapore's green / living wall buildings) was very nice and I noted a new cafe is in the works as well.

The Living Wall Sky Garden's Exhibition

Our visit with the library ended and led us to the nearby revamped streamlined deco Seaholm powerstation for a quick lunch and it was off to walk to South Congress.

 Seaholm

From Seaholm our walk intersected with a portion of the 20,000 participating in Austin's March of Our Lives on our way to cross the Congress Bridge.   

The walk included window shopping, some perfect tacos al carbon, street art, people watching and some creative street performers.

Spring inAustin

Energetic Street Performer(s)

Willie!

The trip was a perfect vaccination for the end of winter! 

Keep it weird.  

Roadboy's Travels © 2018

Sunday, March 11, 2018

Frank Lloyd Wright's "Tiny" House

The Seth C. Peterson Cottage 
Mirror Lake Wisconsin

Close your eyes and imagine a tiny cottage perched on the side of a steep woodsy hillside with views of a shimmering lake below.

Mirror Lake

Now open them and find yourself in one of Frank Lloyd Wright's smallest, most intimate creations.

The Seth C. Peterson Cottage

In 1958 Seth Peterson (after numerous attempts) was able to convince Wright to design a small getaway cottage for himself and his future bride. 

Wright completed the commission, but passed away the following year in 1959, before the cottage was complete. 

 The Centerpiece of the Cottage is its Massive Fireplace

This makes the cottage one of Wright's last residences and the last commission in his home state of Wisconsin. Sadly, Peterson also died before his cottage was complete at the age of 24.

The cottage was subsequently purchased and eventually absorbed into Mirror Lake State Park. It fell into severe disrepair. In 1989 the Seth C. Peterson Cottage Conservancy began a complete restoration effort. The restoration was completed in 1992 and the 880 square foot cottage has been self-supporting ever since. It is available for tours, special events and for rent to overnight guests.

Construction is local limestone and pine. Floors are flagstone. Above the expansive windows are additional windows with a pine motif. 

Despite its small size, Wright's traditional "Compression and Relief" design principal (small intimate spaces opening to large spaces) is expressed perfectly.

 

The cottage design is organized around a core that features a large fireplace, compact kitchen and mechanical/utility room. The living room is surprisingly spacious with a built-in sofa (with hideaway bed). There is one bedroom that is afforded privacy by opening a hinged door to the linen closet. There is one modernized bathroom.

 Looking into the Bedroom

 Updated Bathroom


The rental rate for the one-of-a-kind cottage currently runs $300-$325 a night. A minimum 2-night stay is required. For information about renting the cottage click here.


Roadboy's Travels © 2018
         

Thursday, March 8, 2018

Roadboy Tries Tru

Refined Minimalism

With the strength in the hospitality industry of late, chains are expending incredible energy to precisely target various market segments. So whenever I can I try out new hotel concepts to spot trends.

I credit Starwood for kicking this all into high gear when it hit a home run with its "W" chain. W introduced a brash, irreverent and high energy vibe to the stodgy tired American hotel industry. They followed it up with "W Lite" (Aloft) and the Element brands.

Lately Marriott and Hilton have erupted in a frenzy of new concepts. Edition, H, Curio, Tru....

Some of the branding has been internally concepted, some has emerged via acquisition (i.e. Marriott's acquisition of Europe's AC Hotels) and some by curation (Marriott's Autograph and Design or Hilton's Tapestry properties).

I've been sampling a number of the new offerings and some have left me invigorated (France's Citizen M) others completely unimpressed (Marriott's Moxy).

Last night I tried my first Tru by Hilton in Murfreesboro Tennessee. And, after a 2 night stay, I'm happy to report they got a lot right in this new, economy priced, brand.

Public Space / Fitness
The Tru lobby feels more like a college student union than a hotel lobby. The round reception / registration desk is a convenience store. 

Fido will find bowls with welcome biscuits and fresh water.

 Tru's Welcome Island

There was a pool table, popcorn machine and a big variety of colorful seating options. Some seating is configured to encourage conversation the rest to discourage it. The overall vibe is colorful and unabashedly trendy in a mid-century modern retro kind of way. I predict a short shelf life.

Tru's fitness room was well equipped (compared to other hotels in this price range).

Guest Rooms
Rooms are compact and close to perfect for a single or couple.

Room Finishes
Surfaces are hard. Floors are wood grain laminate (clean, doggie friendly, noisy). Walls are vinyl. Ceiling is gyp board. The room would benefit greatly from the addition of an acoustical ceiling treatment to soften room noise.

Bed
The bed and linens were perfect. 

Room Furniture
No space consuming desk in this little room, instead you get a curvy chair with swing-out tablet surface for writing or eating.

 The Rolly Chair

No dresser either. There is just a long narrow wall hung counter with shelf below. It holds the huge TV and offers a place for your wallet and rooms key. Next to the bed is a little red bongo table for your glass of water and hovering over the AC unit is a metal and lattice strap thingie. Space under the pedestal bed is configured for a suitcase or computer bag.

Closet
Nope. Closets are disappearing all over. Here there is a pipe rail with some hangers. Below the pipe is a flat laminate surface where you can set a suitcase. And under that is a small refrigerator (like it). 

 The "Closette"

Lighting and Power
Tru's Electrical Engineer gets an A+. The room had ample lighting placed exactly where it was needed. It was easy to figure out too. Outlets were plentiful and placed above counters (no moving the bed to find the one overburdened outlet).

Bathroom / Shower
The bathroom is just right. It offers a decent, well lit mirror. The shower is prefab (fine with me - no mildew in grout joints). The shower temp valve is placed so you can turn on shower water without stepping into the shower.

 Bathroom

Hooks
Lots of big hooks to hang stuff.

 Hooks!

Noise
The one negative is noise. Both in the room (hard surfaces and the noisy through wall AC unit) and between the rooms (energetic amorous neighbors equaled a steep volume increase on HBO last night).

Tru Minimalism - No more - No less


Roadboy's Travels © 2018   

Wednesday, February 21, 2018

Roadboy's Long Weekend in LA

The Best Time of the Year!

Roadboy just finished a really enjoyable long weekend in Los Angeles. The leisurely trip included a return to Disneyland, a day sent at Gene Autry's Western Heritage Museum and a dim sum / Peking duck brunch on The Terrace at Pasadena's venerable Langham Huntington Hotel.


Day One: Mrs. Knotts Fried Chicken Dinner
After landing at LAX Thursday evening, our first stop was Knott's Berry Farm for dinner. Mrs. Knotts Fried Chicken Dinner is an Orange County institution.  The dinner is now supersized and includes 4 pieces of chicken, salad, soup, sides and lots of hot biscuits and boysenberry preserves. Also included with dinner is choice of apple or boysenberry pie. The price? A little over $20.

My other usual stop would normally be Kings Hawaiian Bakery / Restaurant in Torrance for a KalBi plate followed by a slice of guava chiffon cake - OMG! My reverence for King's began when I lived in Honolulu. It was our Sunday tradition to brunch at the King's Bakery that used to be next to Star Market in Kaimuki. Alas no time for King's this trip.

Day Two: Disneyland
I know people that view Southern California almost solely as that place where Disneyland exists. And, some of them make trips to Disneyland with alarming regularity. As for me I love a whole bunch of things about LA. Disneyland is just one of them.

And, maybe a sign of getting old, but I have come to limit trips to The Magic Kingdom to the off season and preferably not on weekends.

 The Line Wait Time at The Haunted Mansion
(Why I go in the off season) 

And, like many Disney veterans, when I return I start by revisiting favorite attractions, then go off exploring.

Roadboy's 3 Disney favorites......

1. The Enchanted Tiki Room (always accompanied by a dole whip)!
I first experienced this attraction when when it debuted in 1963 and I was seven years old. The Tiki Room was the first of Disney's high tech audio-animatronic "Dark" attractions that have since come to characterize modern theme parks. It is still pure magic.

2. The Pirates of the Caribbean
This was the last attraction whose development and construction was personally overseen by Walt Disney (who even had a family apartment included above the ride itself). It opened in 1967 three months after Walt Disney's death. It has evolved over the years to be politically correct and add audio-animatronic Johnny Depp characters.
 
3. Haunted Mansion (Hurry Baaack, Hurry Baaack)!
Opened in 1969 this attraction was also conceived by Walt Disney who visited the Winchester Mystery House for inspiration. Developed after his death the attraction ushers guests through the mansion on "doom buggies". Love it.

The Tiki Room
(Where the Birdies Sing and the Flower's Croon)

Roadboy scrupulously tries to avoid.....
1. It's A Small World (this was created as a ride for the 1964 New York World's Fair. It was sponsored by Pepsi and proceeds from it were given to UNICEF. Now Roadboy views it as a cheap  aquatic, plywood and glitter earworm factory)

2. Star Tours (a gussied up shopping mall flight simulator ride. Ugh.)

3. The Mad Teaparty (this is one of Disneyland's original attractions, but Roadboy just flashbacks to a grad night in 1974 where about 2:45 am Roadboy and centrifugal force joined to create some epic projectile vomit)

This year the park is full of (much needed) repair and construction work. Splash Mountain is totally ripped up, Main Street has a big ugly wall running right down the middle of it to conceal repairs to the trolley tracks and huge cranes herald the massive new Star Wars "Galaxies Edge" addition scheduled to open in 2019. Hopefully they will turn some imagineer attention to a serious renovation of the skanky old "Tomorrowland".

Cranes from Galaxies Edge Under Construction

 Little Jedi's in Tomorrowland

It turns out timing our timing was perfect. We toured on Friday and Disney announced another hike in admission prices the very next day. 

And yet, we will always return....

Here's Why

Day Three: The Autry in Griffith Park
Although Roadboy knows many visitors to LA have never even heard of Gene Autry's Museum of the American West (now simply referred to as The Autry), you really should put it on your list to see. 

The permanent galleries have tributes to all things "Cowboy" including: art, history, movies and popular culture. Whoever curates this museum IMHO is wonderful.

 Every Kids Dream Bedroom Circa 1959

 Lesaka Waken
Maynard Dixon 1922
 
 Bridges
James Doolin 1989

We were lucky enough to visit the day The Autry debuted its spectacular 2018 Master's Western Art show.  What a joy to view such glorious art in the presence their creator's.

 Santa Fe Plaza
Roseta Santiago


 Silent Shadow
(Bronze)
Tim Cherry

Shadow Catcher
Jeremy Lipking

 Native American Nouveau
Thomas Blackshear

 West of the Rio Grande
Mark Maggiori

Day Four: Bottomless Mimosa's and Peking Duck - The Brunch at Pasadena's Langham Huntington. Yum!

We tried to visit the Griffith Park Observatory, but met way too many Los Angelino's with the same idea.

Alas, with the sun starting to set on a Sunday evening it was time to fly home.


Roadboy's Travels © 2018