Constitution Day - København!

A Perfect Day in the Sun

 

On Wednesday Copenhagen's residents went to vote and then surrounded themselves with family and friends. They laid out picnics and shared libations. All while sitting by, floating on or jumping in their precious water.

As a visitor I felt honored to immerse myself in their day of national celebration. 

You see, the symbolism was striking to me. While other nations take a day to celebrate bombs bursting in air and heroic victories in battle, Denmark celebrates their precious symbol of democracy; their constitution.

As many formerly nations of the world willingly surrender civil liberties, the rule of law, democracy, voting rights and constitutional protections in favor of rule by proudly authoritarian despots, Denmark celebrates it's very symbol of democracy.  And to top it off, the ever efficient Dane's, well they threw in Father's Day for good measure!

So, after a glorious jet lag induced afternoon nap ended, as evening arrived, I went for a walk. And as I ventured out I enjoyed the smell of food cooking and the energy of the celebratory crowds. From my hotel I crossed bridges and ventured along the throngs on the waterfront of Copenhagen's vibrant Christianshavn.

 Dane's Filled the Waterfront

 They Gathered to Eat, Drink with Picnics and Food Trucks

Chirstinahavn features a dazzling mix of old and new housing and canals dredged by a king to resemble Amsterdam. 

Christionshavn's Canals

It also features Copenhagen's one-of-a-kind urban anomaly; Freetown Christiana. In 1971 activists moved into a derelict area of Copenhagen and claimed it to be a zone independent of the nation. Operated as a commune. between 750 and 1,100 people live here. Due to the open sale of hash and marijuana the residents forbid any photographs from the colorful commune.  The settlement has had a history of run-ins with police and government officials. There have also been violent attacks by local drug and biker gangs that wanted to sell here.

But, this evening, I walked through a lot of partygoers and seeminlgy high school age pot buyers . Of late the police have not intervened here.

Wall Art Surrounds Freetown Christiana

The Entry to Freetown Christiana 

(the other side of the sign "you are now entering the EU" seen when leaving - in English)

Our Saviour's Church - Christianshavn

Roses Climbing a Residential Doorway

(I just loved the image)

A sunny day of reflection and joy in a truly amazing city.


Roadboy's Travels © 2019 

Grundtvig's Church

It is Official - I Have Fallen Madly in Love with Cøpenhagen! 

Today began with some practical information from the hotel concierge. I learned how to catch and pay for city buses. Google maps then took over and I ventured to the Bispebjerg District of Københaven to visit Grundtvigs Kirke (Church). 

Grundtvigs Kirke

The church is named for the Danish philosopher and hymn writer N.F.S. Grundtvig. The design for the church was secured in 1913 by Architect Peder Vilhelm Jensen-Klint who created a winning design.  The foundation stone however was not laid until 1921 after the close of World War I.  Construction then continued until 1940. Klint's son Kaare completed the final decade of work fro 1930 on.

Kaare Klint

5,000,000 yellow bricks were laid to comprise a church that is described as both Expressionist & Modern Gothic. The facade, framed by a city street, was to me quite startling. It looks like a 160' tall brick Church organ. I found the design to be a bit reminiscent of the forms later adopted by the fascists that would soon unleash terror on Europe.

Yet, after touring it, my initial impressions fell away and I now stand in awe. In its simplicity and it is nothing short of a one-of-kind masterwork.

There are two organs in the church. A smaller organ built in 1940 and designed by Kaare and a huge organ added in 1965 with a facade designed by Kaare's son Esben.  So this church was ultimately designed by three generations of Klint's.

Luckily the church was closed for the noon hour, so it coerced me to go explore the really wonderful Bispebjerg Cemetery across the street.

This cemetery is unlike any I've seen before. It truly felt like a well cared for park. And it was in full bloom.

 

I Love Lilacs

(some of the blooms in the cemetery) 

Now for some images and impressions of Grundtvig's Church.

The First Glimpse is Startling

The Church is the Centerpiece of an Entire

Neighborhood Designed by Klint 

 

Yet, When Framed in the Context of Nature

Its Severe Forms Seem to Rationalize

Inside it is Simple, Orderly and Dignified

 

The 1965 Pipe Organ
(Its Larger Pipes Each Weigh Nearly 1000 Lbs.)

Pipe Detail

                                            A Simple Candle Rack                                                  

(I loved the play of light and shadow)

No Stained Glass

(only two icons adorn the church -

a Danish looking Christ at crucifiction and a ship)

A Ship Floats Above Parishioners

(perfectly symbolism for a seafaring nation) 

 Even the Seating is Simple & Beautifully Crafted  

 

I returned to the hotel for snacks and a nap. Then I decided I needed to walk a bit. But first I had to inquire why there were (quite literally) thousands of people sunbathing, swimming and relaxing just outside my window on a Wednesday? The answer from the was that everyone was off in Denmark on June 5. It is Denmark's Constitution Day and Father's Day.

Getting very sleepy, so more about the balance of my day in tomorrow's post.

Roadboy's Travels © 2019

Roadboy's Scandinavia

Getting There - Smooth Sailing Mostly

For me half the fun of travel is the planning and building anticipation for the journey itself. Knowing the trip will enable meeting new people, tasting new foods and experiencing new culture is kind of cool.

Of course, there are the unexpected things too.

Well my journey today (yesterday) began with one of those. The easiest leg of my flights should have been my first flight from Phoenix to Denver (where I'd catch my British Airways flight to London).  

But, weather at Denver resulted in our American Airlines pilot having to circle Denver. And all that circling burned up too much fuel. So we had to land and refuel in Pueblo Colorado. Of course Pueblo doesn't serve commercial aviation so we had to sit on the runway to await the news that we could fly the remaining 20 minutes to Denver.

For once I was very glad I had a very long layover planned for this flight!

And, as soon we got to Denver and I boarded BA's 747 I quickly got comfy in my little pod in the "attic".  I appreciate the quiet business class pods in the upper level of BA's 747's. 

I have to say I still love flying on 747's. They are kind of magical to me. These 4-engine whales of the air were the first "jumbo" jets, beginning service when I was still in junior high school. 

Once in my pod I ate well, worked a bit and slept very well.

Life in the Bubble Top 

My 747 At Heathrow 

(my window was the one just above the "d" in "One World") 

Upon landing in Copenhagen it was a quick trip through passport control and on to a smooth as silk $8 commuter train ride from the airport to Copenhagen's lovely old Central Station (located right across the street from Tivoli).  That is what multi-modal transport is all about.  Old and new seamlessly working together.

Arriving at Copenhagen's Gorgeous Central Station 

(with its glorious exposed wood structure) 

After unpacking I decided to take a walk and immediately noticed that there were few cars in the central city but tons of bicycles. And (just like Amsterdam) the bikes have separate drive lanes.  

Just awesome. 

They also have these simple rails installed on public stairs that allow you to roll a bike or scooter effortlessly up and down. 

 Everyone Cycles Here

(note the thoughtful wheel rail installed on every public set of pedestrian stairs)

My walk allowed me to peek into "Tivoli" which I assumed would be overrun with visitors on a summer evening. But it wasn't crowded at all.

Tivoli Gardens 

(Operating since 1843, Walt Disney is said to have found inspiration from Tivoli) 

And just to the side of the Danish Architecture Center I came upon a shimmering new pedestrian bridge under construction. In a city that I found to be illuminated dimly, this bridge just sparkles. 

 

A Striking New Pedestrian Bridge Under Construction

(The "Lille Langebro" pedestrian bridge will open a year late - a section was damaged in Rotterdam)

Well I've stayed up as long as I can. It is officially the end of Day One and it is time for bed. Lets see if Roadboy can beat the jet lag gremlin in just one day!

Roadboy's Travels © 2019

Getting all set for Scandinavia!

A Visit To Copenhagen, Stockholm and Helsinki!

Months of planning for a cycling adventure in Scandinavia will soon be realized!  

I depart Monday June 3 for my flight to Copenhagen via Denver and London. 

I'll enter the European Union via London (for perhaps my last Pre-Brexit time?). Then I'll change planes for my final leg to Copenhagen.  

A zillion frequent flier points evaporated in order to put me seats in Business Class.  I'll fly to Europe via British Air and return home on American's new non-stop London to Phoenix service.

Bike gear, check

Woolite, check

Bike helmet, check

Activate travel insurance, check

Passport, check

Credit card notifications, check

Upgrade cell service, check

Roadboy is eager to meet the world's happiest people!

Roadboy's Travels © 2019

Day Tripping from Phoenix

Sedona, Jerome and Prescott

I had one of my oldest friends visit Phoenix for a conference recently.  I was lucky that she was able to add an extra Sunday / Monday giving us some precious time to reminisce.

Sunday we visited Phoenix' truly wonderful Musical Instrument Museum.  Monday we took a day trip out of Phoenix.

Phoenix's central location is perfect for day trips in any direction. My favorites include Tucson with stops at St. Xavier Del Bac, the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum and (in summer) a drive to cool off on the top of Mt. Lemmon.

Another big favorite is a day trip to Bisbee / Karchner Caverns. 

This time we made a loop from Phoenix to the red rocks of Sedona. And, being a Monday, we avoided Sedona's ridiculous weekend traffic and the throngs of Phoenicians returning back from a weekend in Flagstaff.

Friends Since Junior High

After a year filled with lots of rain, our drive was through a desert verdant green with wildflowers exploding in spring color.

We first made a stop at Sedona's striking Chapel of the Holy Cross.  Funded by a local rancher Marguerite Brunswig Staude, who commissioned San Francisco's Anshen and Allen as the architect. It's site required a special use permit that was obtained with the help of Senator Barry Goldwater.  The chapel completed in 1956 at a cost of $300,000. The chapel won the American Institute of Architect's Award of Honor in 1957.

Chapel of The Holy Cross

From there we went for a casual lunch at Sedona's Wildfower Bakery (it has seating that affords a red-rock views).

 

Leaving Sedona we drove through Cottonwood and then up Cleopatra Hill for a visit to the once abandoned mining town of Jerome.

Fragments of Jerome's Past Cling to Cleopatra Hill

In Jerome there was time for window shopping and a visit to see the magical kaleidoscopes at Nellie Bly's art glass shop. If you don't love the little optical treasures found here, you lack a beating heart.

Nellie Bly's Kaleidoscopes

The Jerome Grand

(Home of The Asylum Restaurant)

From there my old green jag XJ-6 (happy to get out of the city) purred its way through the windy mountain roads over Mingus Mountain and on to Prescott (for a dinner stop at El Gato Azul).

 

After dinner it was an easy trip home.

A perfect day.

Roadboy's Travels © 2019

A Return to Chicago and Oak Park

Roadboy's Long Weekend in the Windy City

A few months back a friend expressed a desire to make a first visit to Chicago.

Well, no one has to ask me twice when it comes to visiting the Windy City!

We scheduled a trip for the last weekend in March when prices for hotels and flights are a bargain and the number of tourists is light. While March still delivers chilly temps all the fine museums are open, restaurants are welcoming and locals are happily emerging from the grasp of another long winter.      

At O'Hare our first stop was a CTA ticket kiosk to buy $20 multi-day unlimited passes. The pass (called a "Ventra") enables unlimited transport - including the journey from the airport to downtown via the Blue Line.

Google transit identified a route with only a single bus transfer that delivered us within 1 block of our hotel; the venerable 1927 era Gold Coast icon Millennium Knickerbocker (just north of the Water Tower).

This hotel has a lot of history. Hotel lore has it that Al Capone's brother operated a casino and speakeasy on the 14th floor during prohibition. Later, in the 1970's, Hugh Hefner bought it renaming it the Playboy Towers.

Today the hotel has been updated, but still retains lots little of the cool original touches that remind you of its age and history. There are the tiny elevators, the copper mail chute, the horseshoe shaped martini bar in the lobby and its spectacular ballroom.

The Knickerbocker Ballroom

For our purposes, the Knickerbocker turned out to be a great choice. The rooms are getting a little dated, but they were clean and quiet. WiFi was free (if a little sluggish). But any negativity was more than offset by the terrific rate we snagged on a Travelzoo Top 20® deal.

After dropping off our luggage we were off to the bean at Millennium Park and the Art Institute of Chicago (open late on Thursdays!) The Art Institute is one of those museums that offers surprise and delight at every turn.

This trip I was able to capture a first glimpse of the newish Deering Family Arms and Armor collection (opened in 2017).

Deering Family Arms and Armor Gallery

I also revisited some of my old friends by Thomas Hart Benton, Charles Singer Sargent and Edward Hopper.

 

 The Cotton Pickers

Thomas Hart Benton 1945

Pan of Rohalion (Cast after 1894)

I particularly enjoyed examining the exemplary building fragments displayed in the main atrium space in the original wing.

Cornice Angel
 Title Guarantee Building 1898
Saint Louis, MO
 (Recovered from Demolition 1983)


Stylized Ornamental Building Sculptures

 
 Terra-cotta and Stone Interior Lantern 
Imperial Hotel Tokyo
Frank Lloyd Wright 1923
  (Recovered from Demolition 1968)
 

Friday, after a great breakfast at the Original Pancake House near our hotel (yum), we boarded the CTA with Oak Park as our destination. Here we could explore the design incubator space for Frank Lloyd Wright's earliest signature structures.

The visit to Oak Park was especially fun for me. In 1976 my mom and I spent a day here. My mom was born in Chicago and played in Wright's Avery Coonley Playhouse at the age of 6 or 7 when it was owned by the Kroehler (Furniture) family. Immediately after that trip I began my own architectural studies at the University of Idaho.

On this trip we began with a guided tour of Wright's 1906 masterwork Unity Temple. I'm very happy to report that Unity Temple actually looks much better today than it did when I visited it more than 40 years ago. The congregants still make full use their jewel box structure exactly as it was intended by Wright over 100 years ago.

Model of Unity Temple 

Oak Park Illinois 1906

Frank Lloyd Wright Architect

With a budget of $45,000, Wright (a neighbor and Unitarian himself) was commissioned to design the building. It was completed in 1908. Wright's design for Unity temple broke almost every rule for church design at the time and was deemed a masterwork almost immediately.

Sanctuary Unity Temple

The Double Balcony Sanctuary Design Seats 400

Unity Temple, Oak Park, Illinois

After our tour we walked just a few blocks, past no less than five examples of Wright's early residential Prairie Style architecture, en route to his original home and studio.

In 1889, when Wright was just 22, he borrowed $5000 ($153,000 in today's dollars) from his employer and mentor Louis Sullivan to build a small home for his future family.

This home afforded him the complete freedom to explore his design ideas. It became a work in progress, that he went on to expand, renovate and rework continuously for the next twenty years. In 1898 he added his studio, where for the next 11 years in collaboration with his architects and allied artists he developed America's Prairie School of architecture.

In 1909, after 20 years of marriage and six children, he abandoned his wife, family and studio departing for Germany with Mamah Borthwick Cheney (the wife of a client) to create portfolio's of his work for a German publisher.

Wright would never live or work in the Oak Park home and studio again.

 Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio

 "Speak No Evil Word of Any Creature"
Above the Fireplace

 Master Bedroom Mural

Children's Playroom Mural

Playroom Windowbox

Stork Sculpture at the Entrance to Wright's Oak Park Studio
Richard Bock 1898 

Mankind Rising From the Earth to Transcend Earthly Bonds
Richard Bock 1898

 Wright's Studio

Light Detail in Wright Office / Library 

 Business Office in the Wright Studio

In 1911 he returned to the US and attempted an unsuccessful reconciliation with Catherine. At that time he converted his former studio into a home for Catherine and his children, subdividing the original home into apartments to provide Catherine income.  Catherine went on to work in Women's suffrage and with the Jane Addams Hull House in Chicago. Catherine eventually granted Wright a divorce in 1922.

In 1913 Wright began work on a dazzling new home and studio he called Taliesin (shining brow) in Spring Green Wisconsin. Horrifically, one year later, while Taliesin was still under construction and Wright was away on a business trip, a mentally unstable servant killed Mamah, her children and carpenters attempting to rescue them.

With enough Wright under our belt for one trip. we devoted Saturday and Sunday in pilgrimages to the Hull House and Chicago's City History Museum.

Each day ended with wonderful dinners provided by Lou Malnati and Stephanie Izard (The Little Goat Diner). Needless to say, we ate well.

On Sunday we departed with a vow for a future visit in summertime.

Roadboy's Travels © 2019