Roadboy's Birthday in Santorini

Thank You Aunt Helen!

Buckle up. The following intro is wordy, but I promise it will eventually get to the topic at hand.

Moving through life we come to intersections where our lives rub up to greatness. Of course while it is actually happening, we are frequently clueless.

My father was a wonderful man. He had a long career as a police officer. A job he loved. But, for much of my childhood he worked nights (or "dogwatch"). So he'd arrive home and go to bed right as I left for school.  That meant we didn't have a normal father / son relationship until I hit the age of about 13 when he could bid for day shifts.

So when I was young my routine was to come home from elementary school, eat dinner, chat up mom and then ask to go "next door".

It wasn't to play games or watch TV with neighbor kids. No I went to visit Mr. and Mrs. Hackshaw. They were an extraordinarily well educated, yet childless, couple. And, in retrospect, heaven knows why they put up with me. But they were so much fun to be around and Aubrey became a surrogate dad. 

Aubrey was from the West Indies and owned that elegant "Cola Nut" accent (sorry for those that have no clue). His prized possession was his big console "Hi-Fi".

Sometimes Aubrey and I would chat or play games, other times we'd just watch television. But my favorite activity was when he'd sit on the floor and deejay Harry Belafonte LP's. He'd sing and clap his hands and this (very uptight) six year old white kid would get up and dance to the Banana Boat Song or Matilda. Dancing in that clumsy way only 5 or 6 years olds can. 

DAY-O!

Alvessie cooked me plantains and made guava jelly. OMG! 

It was a turbulent time in America and when the Watt's riots hit (which confused a small kid), Alvessie took the time to gently explain what was happening in a way a small kid could understand. And, her honesty and insight frequently provided me a logical alternative to some of what I heard at home. 

Being around the Hackshaw's taught me that once you come to love people, it becomes hard to hate the "thems" of the world. Such an important lesson.

Years later I came to fully realize how respected they were in Oakland's African American Community. I also discovered that many of the guests I met walking around at their cocktail parties (me looking at kneecaps) were famous sports stars, musicians (Count Basie's Orchestra!) and at least two Presidential cabinet members.....

But that's another story.

Another intersection with greatness involved my own family. I've always adored my Aunt Helen and Uncle Ken. Like the Hackshaw's, only later in life did I fully realize the greatness of their lives. When Uncle Ken passed away last October he was the oldest living member of the NFL. In fact, although drafted by the Pittsburgh Steeler's, he opted to play his two professional NFL seasons for the brand new SF 49'ers at Kezar (think Dirty Harry). 

Mom's sister, Ken's beloved wife of 75+ years (Aunt Helen), was all business. She ran her family like a corporation. Her authoritative voice left no doubt what was going to happen as she dispensed wisdom in a completely matter-of-fact manner.

But that's also another story.

So why do I bring all this up? Well its about learning to trust greatness. 

You see during one of my chats with Aunt Helen (who had seemingly traveled everywhere) I asked her to list her favorite places on earth. Without hesitation she said French Polynesia and Santorini.

In that moment, those places took their place on my must see destinations list.

So fast forward to May 2022. After our departure from Athens our first stop (thanks to Aunt Helen) was the island caldera of Santorini.

Our AirBNB host Antonis met us at the airport where he piled all our luggage in his zippy little all electric Fiat. That allowed us to follow him to his MyBozer Twins (his two lovely AirBNB units). As there are no street signs or addresses on Santorini. Apple Maps is worthless. You have to follow someone.

Till the moment we picked our Volkswagen UP! I had never heard of one. But it became our 3 cylinder freedom machine (complete with a very forgiving clutch).

Antonis proved to be human joy with a heartbeat. He loves life, people, and his adorable adopted pit bull Bella.

He delivered a fresh tray of different warm Greek pastries to us every morning of our stay.

Good Morning from Antonis! 

Our first planned activity was a glorious evening walking tour of the hilltop town of Oía with Jean Sébastien. 

 

Jean Sébastien

We learned the history of the island along with the volcanic legacy of the crescent shaped caldera that forms Santorini and its bay.  

Oía and Fira are the islands two big towns. Both cling to the steep cliffs of the caldera. Both offer iconic guest rooms created from caves. 

Jean Sébastien, however, alerted us to the seismically unstable "Red Zone" on which some of Santorini's hotels and guest lodgings reside. 

If you plan to visit Santorini ask if your lodgings are in the red zone. If they are, stay somewhere else. The last cataclysmic earthquake was July 7, 1956 and experts believe they are due for another.  When it arrives a lot of lovely white structures will tumble down Santorini's steep cliffs into the sea.

Oía is the quiet and romantic "honeymoon" town. Fira is the boisterous party town. Happily our AirBNB was not in either. It was just down the hill from Oía nestled in some wonderfully quiet vineyards. We enjoyed views of the ocean and the donkey that arrived every morning to graze just outside our window.

Our Morning Visitor

While in Athens we asked Ms. Kochilas for some recommendations on places to eat on Santorini. Top of her list was the Sigalis Winery. Which turned out to be literally a few steps from our AirBNB.

Truly Joss!

So here are some photos of our time on Santorini.

Ms. M and the Crystal Blue Aegean Waters of the Caldera

The hilltowns of Oía and Fira are hopelessly picturesque. The white "paint" is actually a limestone slurry applied annually to seal the buildings, reflect heat, and keep mosquitos away. Some say the domes were painted blue to thumb their nose to the Ottoman occupiers as it made the whole city into a Greek Flag.

Jean Sébastien warned us to avoid Red Beach (where deadly rock slides are a high probability). He also advised against white swim attire as some beaches release sulfur leaving unfortunate swimmers with potentially embarrassing (and permanent) yellow stains.

 

There are Lots of Cats

Many Caves Come With Private Pools and Spas

Our visit included my 66th birthday. So when the day came Antonis booked lunch reservations at Fratzeskos on the beach in Perissa. The fish was caught that morning. I had a fresh grilled Scorpionfish. It was sublime. Dorothy introduced us to taramasalata (a meze made from the salted roe mixed with olive oil, lemon juice and a starchy base of bread or potatoes). It was wonderful.   

Perusing the Menu at Fratzeskos

Scorpionfish

One of the more popular activities on the island is the 7 KM ridge hike from Fira to Oía. It is well marked and offers spectacular views. Take lots of water.

Looking From Fira to Oía

Sadly our time on Santorini finally came to an end. We turned in our UP! at the airport, said our goodbyes to Antonis (and Bella) and shuttled to the port to catch a high speed SeaJets ferry for the 90 minute crossing to Heraklion Crete.

On Our Way to Crete

Thank you Aunt Helen!

Roadboy's Travels © 2022

Roadboy's Rendezvous in Athens

Sightseeing and Diane Kochilas' Taste Athens Tour 

My first visit to Athens confirmed that this city needs a much better PR team. 

Before arriving former travelers warned me Athens would be dirty. Well, compared to many cities I've visited it was actually tidy. 

They warned I would find a city choked with traffic and smog. We enjoyed glorious days with sparkling, clear skies 🙂. Traffic, who cares, we walked and took Metro.

I was counseled it is overcrowded and stiflingly hot. Well here they are probably right. Locals confirmed Athen's summers are hot and muggy. And like swallows to Capistrano the summer heat arrives with hordes of international tourists. 

So, DUH, don't go to Athens in June, July or August!

I guess I do sort of empathize a bit as I live in the blast furnace that is Phoenix Arizona in summer. But, the difference is our heat is pretty dry and coincides with tourists leaving, not arriving. So Phoenicians (acclimated to surface-of-the-sun summer temperatures) are left with a hot, yet gloriously empty, city.   

Anyway, Athens offered friendly people, great sights, amazing food, spectacular art and cultural treasures all topped off with a clean and modern subway (that provides efficient transfers from the airport to city center).

For us Athens served as sort of a travel bookend. We arrived from London, spent a couple of days sightseeing before flying to explore two Greek Islands. Then we returned to Athens for a couple of more days prior to flying home.

Here are some highlights from this first timer's visit to Athens.

So, first off, lets review a little Greek travel etiquette. Before drinking tap water verify it is safe (its a Yes in Athens and a No in Santorini and Crete). Second, be aware ancient cities have ancient plumbing. Used toilet paper does NOT get flushed down the toilet (put it only in the waste receptacle that will always be near the toilet). Finally, be nice. The Greeks we met were warm and caring. Please don't skimp on sincere smiles and learn to say thank you! "Efcharistó" (Eff Care Iss Toe). 

To begin our time in Athens my traveling companions humored my request to began with a visit to the Acropolis Museum (completed in September 2007). For this architect, this stunningly designed and engineered museum was a total geek out. 

 The Acropolis and its Nearby Neighborhoods

For those unaware, the massive Acropolis Museum is truly an engineering marvel. The whole museum sort of floats above an excavated archeological dig. In fact, the entrance is a bridge with sections of glass to afford views of the ruins below.

The Entrance to the Acropolis Museum

 

As you enter the building it offers very intuitive wayfinding that leads visitors to the center of the building and up a gentle inclined ramp presided over by 5 of the original caryatids (missing the one Lord Elgin ripped off and hauled back to London).

The Five Original Caryatids

Other treasures include an array of sculptures that demonstrate the ancient Greeks understanding of human form in contrappostos.

Female Head

(a marble copy of a gold and ivory statue from the 4th or 5th century BC. The color that streams from her eyes is a product of oxidation from the statues original bronze eyelashes)

The Blond Boy

 

One of the most treasured items in the museum is this bust entitled Blond Boy. When found its hair retained traces of yellow pigment. I found it interesting that these beautiful Greek sculptures we traditionally think of as white stone were originally painted.

As you rise in the building its direction shifts with its highest level parallel to the acropolis. The building was of international significance because of the care used in seismic engineering. It is designed to (and should) someday rightfully house the frieze of the Parthenon.

But of course the frieze currently resides in the British Museum (yep Elgin "purchased" it too). I find it hugely ironic that the frieze is now referred to as the "Elgin Marbles". Such dark humor to name them after an international crook. In my perfect world the British Museum should create and display copies of the frieze panels while returning the originals to Greece. But more on this later.

PS Egypt would appreciate their mummy's back  too.         

The next event for us was a wonderful (and tasty) stroll. My chef friend organized a tour organized by PBS's renowned host of My Greek Table, Diane Kochilas. Her 4.5 hour Athen's culinary began near Syntagma Square and led us on a blissful meander through bakeries, the bustling main central market, and cheese shops. We made lots of stops to sample local food, Greek coffee, and wine.

Our tour guide was Lida who was an effervescent source of information and warmth. Our group was lucky enough to be joined by Ms. Kochilas herself for a couple of hours. She walked with us answering questions and also joined us for coffee (cooked in hot sand). I enjoyed her insights. She and Lida also gave us great recommendations on places to eat on Santorini and Crete.

First Stop A Multi-Generationally Owned Bakery 

 

A Coffee and Plant Shop

In This Cafe The Barista Crafts Drinks Among the Customers

The Fresh Seafood was Dazzling in Athen's Central Market

While passing a cafe the owner came bursting out to chat up Ms. Kochilas. So we all were invited in to see their specialty (soups). They had an extensive brag wall filled with photos from Guy Fieri to Anthony Bourdain (and among them was a photo of Diane). 

Our next stop was a break to enjoy some classically brewed Greek Coffee.

Coffee Warmed in Hot Sand

The coffee led to a session of fortune telling by reading the coffee grounds. So much family tradition is found in every facet of Greek cooking.

Reading Our Fortune

We finished off the tour in a lovely little wine bar where we all sat at the bar sampling a variety of Greek wines (whites). It was such a great way to spend a lovely spring day in Athens.

The next day was spent in transit to Santorini where we would meet Antonis our amazing AirBNB host met us at the airport. But I'll cover that in the next Post. 

After spending the next 10 days on Santorini and Crete we returned to Athens for our last couple of days in Greece before returning home. 

First up on my agenda was to eat a great breakfast (eggs scrambled with feta, fresh fruit, coffee, toast and some Greek yogurt drizzled with honey). 

Now it was time to climb the Acropolis. 

Although the climb appears daunting it is actually a glorious walk through history. The trail is gentle and passes two theaters before reaching the Temple of Athena Nike and the Propylaia. There is a glass elevator for those that need it.

Just be very careful as the steps, worn smooth by millions of tourists, are slippery even when dry. After a rain, damn!

Now I know it sounds absurd. But wear good shoes. We actually saw visitors wearing high heals. No synapses firing there.

  Soooo Slippery

Once you clear the Propylaia the view of the Parthenon is breathtaking. This is the building whose architects and engineers considered proportions to be everything. It delivered slightly inclined doric columns and added a slight curvature to the pediment to make it appear flat. 

The building is currently scaffolded to enable repairs from some ill advised prior restoration efforts.

Imagine how beautiful the building would be if so many successive insults to it had been avoided. First there was the destruction of its (nude) sculptures by the Christians seeking to convert it into a Christian church.

Then the Ottoman Turks used the Parthenon as an ammo dump (what could go wrong?). That answer came explosively in 1687 when Venetian invaders knew right where to send their bombs to destroy the Turk's armory. 

The final insult came in 1801 when Lord Elgin's workers arrived to hack away at the pediment to remove the last remaining intact frieze panels for transport back to London. He displayed them as a curiosity until the British Government purchased them for installation in The British Museum. The museum asserts they were stolen fair and square and will never be returned. Kind of smacks of the Galerie Belvedere's unwillingness to return art the Nazi's stole from Viennese Jews in WWII. 

I think the Greeks should buy Stonehenge from the Scots. Who cares if the Scots don't actually own it? After all Elgin "bought" the marbles from occupying Turks who had no legitimate claim to the Parthenon. 

Stonehenge might look good on Crete? It might last longer out of the rain too.

The Parthenon

After our visit we enjoyed lunch at a restaurant recommended by Lida. I had risotto with wild mushrooms followed by a desert of poached pears with pistachio ice cream. Color me happy.

Our return to the AirBNB was hastened by some huge raindrops ushering in a wild overnight storm.

The Illuminated Acropolis

Next post will be Santorini.

Roadboy's Travels © 2022

Roadboy's Visit / The V&A

Arts & Theater Plus Sublime Industrial Photos

As many of my past posts confirm, the venerable Victoria and Albert Museum is one of my favorite haunts whenever I visit London.  My last visit was in 2017. 

On this trip I found many exhibits fully refreshed, and happily, many of my favorites remain wonderfully intact.

This free 170 year old museum is huge, like 12.5 acres huge. It is the largest museum in the world devoted to applied arts, decorative arts, and design. Yet despite its size, it has a remarkably curated and ever changing array of fascinating temporary exhibits. 

Currently it has an exhibit showcasing the art of men's fashion (Fashioning Masculinities), the art of Beatrix Potter and a photographic exhibition of the stunning industrial photography of Maurice Broomfield.

So here are just a few snaps of things I found interesting in my all too brief visit. PS: I'm returning in September and plan additional time to explore this wonderful museum.

 

First up the Industrial Photographs of Maurice Broomfield

The entrance features walls of vintage cameras. Seeing them it occurred to me that many (most?) visitors to the exhibit have no clue as to the elaborate technical skill that was needed to capture pre-digital photographs. Photographer's had to measure light, consider the specific characteristics and properties of the film products available, decide on flash units, and then carefully measure chemicals and timing to correctly develop the photos.

The Broomfield photos, many captured in low light or at night, demonstrate a tour de force of photographic expertise. They also immortalize the heroic skills of post WWII industrial workers in Great Britain. At the time these photo's were captured England was a country capable of building incredibly high quality ships, airplanes, automobiles, appliances and textiles. 

Whether shoes or televisions, in the 1950's and 1960's, what you bought in England was probably made in England. 

Sadly these photos essentially immortalize the demise of UK industrial capacity.

Much of the text to the exhibit includes recollections of family members as to the joy Mr. Broomfield found in his craft (which is clearly reflected in the images he captured). These images are so wonderful I've purposely loaded them extra large.

Bessemer Platform

Corby, Northhamptonshire 1957

The Bessemer Convertor was the breakthrough process that allowed for the economical mass manufacture of quality steel. It was widely used from the mod 1800's until about 1968.

The Fettler

Ford Motor Comapny Ltd. Dagenham, Essex 1953

The fettler smoothed rough edges for crankshafts going into car engines. Fettler's were paid by the piece and Broomfield commented this fettler did not appear happy about the photographic distraction.

Taper Roller Bearing

British Timken Works, Daventry, Horthhamptonshire 1957

This is my favorite image in the exhibit. The photo notes say that Broomfield sometimes asked workers to return at night in order to better control lighting. He'd bring electricians to set up specialized lighting and then underexpose his image. This image showcases his extraordinary skill. 

Tapping a Furnace

Ford, Degenham, Essex 1954

Image notes state that broomfield was awed by the skill of the workers he photographed. In this case a single figure in silhouette controls the river of molten metal used for making steel. Tapping was a process for removing impurities from the steel.

Wire Manufacture 

Somerset Wire Company, Pengam Moors, Cardiff, Wales 1964

 

Then came the Theater Arts Exhibits

With limited time this year I made a beeline to the theater arts exhibits. Here props, set models, and costumes are constantly exhibited in rotations. Last time my favorite was Dame Edna's Food Dress. This time I marveled at the tuxedo and dress worn by Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers.

Astaire's Tux From Shall We Dance

Anderson and Sheppard, Saville Row 1937

Ginger Rogers Costume From Lady in the Dark

Edith Head / Mitchell Leisen 1944

Astaire preferred Anderson and Sheppard as his tailors and always tested the seams in his suits for strength. The notes said his preference was dark blue as it photographed better in black and white.  

Ms. Roger's mink overskirt dress was designed by the amazing Edith Head. And, at $35,000 in 1944 ($697,000 adjusted to 2022 dollars), it was the most expensive costume in Hollywood history. They created two versions; one for singing and close ups, plus a lighter version for dance.

Pure Fluid Elegance

Harlequin

Albert Gilbert

I was drawn immediately to this graceful figurine. It is said to be the logo for The Production Club (not sure about that club) in 1942. In reading the text accompanying it I realized that it was created by the same artist of the exquisite Eros Sculpture in Piccadilly Circus.   

On my way to the Industrial Design Exhibit I ran through the jewelry vault. Talk about a dazzling collection of gems and precious metals.

The Vault

Jewelry and Gems 

As the museum began to announce its upcoming closure I literally ran through the industrial arts exhibit where this magnificent molded plywood chair was prominently displayed.    

Plywood Chair

Greta Jalk, Copenhagen, 1963

With the encouragement of the nearby docent I made my way to exit the museum stopping at this photo of three young Mariupol police officers. Taken 2 years ago, they stand in front of Mariupol's, now infamous, steel works in their now largely destroyed city.  

Words fail me.

Policewomen 

Mariupol 2019

V&A WWII Building Damage

After seeing the policewomen photo, I noted upon exit the walls of the museum complete with scars still evident from WWII. 

All I could think of was lyrics to War

War, huh, yeah, what is it good for? 

Absolutely nothing...

Edwin Starr 1970

 

 

Posts from Greece will soon follow.

Roadboys Travels © 2022 

Tea in London at Sketch!

What is More Perfect Than English Tea?

I am not really a tea drinker. For me I'd rather go with a good cup of java with some cream. 

But when in London you are gonna be invited to share a "cuppa". 

And, of course, the only correct answer to an offered cup of tea is an emphatic "that sounds great!"

So when my daughter suggested one of London's current hipster hangouts for taking afternoon "Tea" I sort of winced a little bit. The image of afternoon Tea for me is drinking from little cups with pinkies extended. 

But of course taking a proper English "Tea" is much more than that, it is a complete event with sweet and savory finger foods. So I figured heck lets do it.  

The locale Ms. M identified was called Sketch. I visited it's website and found it both crazy and captivating. 

She secured a reservation.

Soon after our chef friend texted saying that she'd gotten strong recommendations from family / friends to visit a restaurant in London named Sketch. Her friends also advised that a reservation made well in advance was a necessity.

Thanks to Ms. M we already had that reservation.  

It turns out Sketch is a collection of eating environments all with artistic themes. However, being a Sunday, only some of the venues were open. Tea was served in "The Gallery".

Sketch, like all "cool for the minute" places, is pricey. Tea with champagne is priced at about $110/person (although I suspect that is modest in comparison to other Sketch offerings). So enjoying Tea was a good middle ground to experience Sketch. 

 

The Full Sketch

The ground floor has a main reception and The Parlor (which actually fronts the street). Down a half flight is a second reception station for The Glade, the East Bar, and The Gallery. Up a half flight is the Lecture Room & Library. The East Bar location is accessed through The Gallery. All, the East Bar is crowned by the "Pods" (more on The Pods later).

 

 Reception Station for The Gallery, The East Bar, and The Glade

 

To the Left is The Glade 

(with its gorgeous bar)

 

 

To the Right is the Elegant "Gallery" 

Settling in for Tea

 

First Course: Caviar with Mornay  

 

I happen to be a caviar fan and this combination was just a perfect way to set taste buds on fire. We also made our initial choices for tea. For my first tea I chose Jasmine as I love how it is so beautifully aromatic. 

 

Next came The Tower.  Top rows were sweet courses. The table level tray held the savory items: Truffle Brioche. Salmon and Ricotta Sandwich, Cucumber Sandwich, Coronation Chicken (my favorite) Sandwich, and Egg Gougère. 

The sweet courses included: Pear and Ginger Cheesecake, Pineapple Marshmallows, Lemon Battenberg, Chocolate Yuzu Strawberry Entremets, Rhubarb & Strawberry Choux, and Jasmine & Raspberry Macarons. 

 

Final course (of course), was scones with Raspberry or Fig Preserves followed by desert course of  Blood Orange Sponge Cake.

The Tea Tower

 

Now lets discuss the East Bar. The East Bar is a cozy space capped by a white domed igloo. Above the domed is a sci-fi forest filled shiny white pods that feel like something directly out of an alien encounter movie. 

 

The pods are accessed by two circular stairways circling up and around the white dome. The pod space is actually Sketch's gender-free restroom. It is filled with a forest of pods and classic porcelain pedestal hand wash sinks. Each pod is a private individual toilet stall that feels like an elegant porta potty. 

Needless to say no one that comes for food or beverage at Sketch resists the chance to visit the Pods. Some (like me) also sneak some photos. Admittedly, my first time taking photos inside a public loo.     

The "Pods"

The Dome Over the East Bar

 

As we left I snapped photos of the stairway from the ground floor up to the Library with its stylized portrait of her majesty at the top. The stairs are coated with series of paint spills running from stair to stair. I suspect buckets of paint were very carefully spilled to create this staircase.

Stairs to The Library

So there is my summary of our visit to Sketch for English Tea. Who knows what will be hot next time I arrive in London, but for now, Tea at Sketch was a truly delightful way to spend a Sunday afternoon!

Next Up - Whats on at The V&A!

Roadboy's Travels © 2022

 

Roadboy Has Missed London

Mind The Gap

While nitwits blather about life "Returning to Normal" (please define "normal" anymore?) after Covid, our theme for this trip is not about returning to anything, it is about celebrating that "Life Goes On"!

 

The Back Story

My long-time (since age 13!) friend, and amazing chef, Dorothy and I have talked for years about making a trip to her beloved Greece. For her it as all about family memories. For me, Greece has always had a spot on my bucket list. 

Now, finally our planets have aligned.

Planning in earnest began more than a year ago. And trip planning these days consists of a lot of wet fingers held to the wind. First there is timing. When will countries be able to reduce Covid restrictions? When is the weather good, yet not overly crowded? 

Everything these days requires hope and a lot of luck. But perhaps, more than anything, timing this year stands firmly atop the hard work of healthcare workers and the scientists who developed a miracle vaccine.

Additional good luck came when my daughter was also able to join us (after making a publishing deadline on her newest graphic novel). 

Timing also synched with removal of UK and Greek access restrictions.

Although our destination is Greece, I suggested that our first leg be a flight from Phoenix to London. This prompts a reader's logical question "Why begin a trip to in Greece via London?"

Short answer: to support American's new non-stop Phoenix to Heathrow service and reduce our jet lag. Despite our position as fifth largest population center in the nation, the Valley of the Sun has only one other flight to Europe. We need more. 

I am happy to report the flight was smooth and punctual. American flew equipment that was spacious, modern, and clean. But, it did come with a (nearly unforgivable?) sin. On a 10 hour long-haul flight the in-flight entertainment system has to work. Period. Full Stop.

Anyway, the plan was to enjoy a few days in London and burn some jet lag before flying on to Athens. The time difference from Phoenix to London is 8 hours. From Phoenix to Greece it is 10 hours. Plus, anyone that knows me knows I need no excuse to visit the UK.

We booked a London AirBNB hosted by John and (his trusty dachsund) Biscuit. Our hosts and accommodations were perfect.

After many visits to London our itinerary was purposely loose: a little exploring, a visit to Harrod's food halls, a trip to the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A), Tea at Sketch, and hopefully a west end play. 

Happy to report all were accomplished! On the sightseeing front we began with a purchase of an Oyster card and a double decker bus ride to Trafalger Square. At TS we contemplated the fourth plinth (now adorned by Heather Phillipson's "The End"). This twisted little confection is a big dollop of whipped cream crowned with a big old cherry on top. But, as you walk around it, you note a drone and huge fly in the cream of dystopia. The End also video records all visitors. What is it with the Brits and cameras EVERYWHERE?

Choosing to ignore the intentional symbolism that will have art scholars contemplating forever, we marched on.

The End

Heather Phillipson 2020

Our walks over the days in London took us up The Mall, on to Westminster Abby and into Harrods (to introduce our chef companion the Food Halls). I was surprised to see that Harrods has spent the past four years (and $421M) upgrading the halls. The new digs are now all on the ground floor now. The newest to open is the new Chocolate Hall. While still over the top, I admit to missing Harrods venerable old basement food halls. 

Here are some photos captured on our strolls (I'll edit separate posts on our tea at Sketch and the visit to the V&A).

  The Updated Harrods Food Halls

 Caviar Anyone?

Endless Pastry Options

The West End is Back

Come From Away

Having been mesmerized by the AppleTV+ presentation of Come From Away, I knew I wanted to experience it live. So we selected it as our play to see this trip and it turned out to be a joyous celebration of human triumph over adversity. The show brought the whole house to its feet for multiple ovations. If you have not experienced this wonderful event, do it. 

Harry Potter and the Cursed Child

Clearly a lot of of production dollars went into staging the Harry Potter play! I'll put it on the "maybe next trip category". 

I always love walking The Mall and St. James Park. And it is just a leafy joy in springtime. The little whimsy garden at Duck Island is a pretty magical spot in the heart of such a bustling City. Having a place of delusion and fantasy such a short walk from number 10 Downing Street seems sort of symbiotic.

St James Park

The Elegantly Understated National Police Officer's Memorial

Having a father in law enforcement and working with many police officers over the years, I am always interested to see how valor is memorialized around the world. London's memorial is particularly good. Here a book with names of officers killed in the line of duty is displayed near a lit pylon. Pages in the book are turned each day memorializing the names of officers that perished that specific day. It is just off The Mall (you can see the horse parade grounds just beyond).

Electric Car Charging 

(located in curbside parking bollards)

Loved these electric car charging stations. So subtle and efficient. Much nicer than those awful Tesla tombstone charging stations we see in the US. Bring your own cord and top off your charge while parked.

Oligarch Row

Three cars parallel parked in a row. A Porsche in front of a Bentley, in front of a Ferrari. Across the street was perhaps the ugly stepsister to the lot; a primer black (I kid you not) Rolls Royce SUV. In my book, despite the pitiful wails of the 1%, here is conclusive proof the rich do not pay their fair share in taxes.

Roadboy's Travels © 2022