The Emerald City - Post Riot + Pandemic
"You're life will always include Seattle"
anonymous psychic - 1981
In 1962 my father decided we needed to make a family visit to the Century 21 Worlds Fair in Seattle. At the time I was 6 years old. I made the whole trip looking backward from the "way way back" seat of a red '58 Plymouth Suburban station wagon festooned with epic tail fins. Although pretty, the Plymouth was a complete piece of crap (we were fortunate in making it up and back without any severe mechanical breakdown.)
A '58 Plymouth Suburban
Our time at the fair and the city of Seattle made a hell of an impression on me. Here was a city that built airplanes, America's first urban monorail, a Space Needle all surrounded by stunning views in any direction.
The Century 21 World's Exposition
After the fair I vowed to return to live in Seattle and become an architect.
Over the next two decades I accomplished both. After graduating from the University of Idaho I rented my first apartment (a funky attic loft in a 1920's era house - now lost to condos) on the South Slope of Queen Anne Hill (before Queen Anne became too expensive for mere mortals).
In Seattle I met new friends. I fell in love. I began a professional career. I hiked in the Cascades and chased rabbits on Orcas Island. And, on May 18, 1980 I got buried in ash from Mt. St. Helen's.
But soon I was enticed to begin a new chapter in my life in Alaska. But that's another story.
The anxiety associated with the decision to leave Seattle actually resulted in me developing an ulcer. And finalizing my decision was, in part, the result of a chance encounter with a psychic who literally knocked on my door doing product research.
After our session (determining my pill size preferences for a famous cold remedy), she quietly said that I seemed troubled. Hearing her say that left me pretty gobsmacked and I admitted I was. I explained I was trying to decide if I wanted accept a job in Alaska when I really was not sure I wanted to leave Seattle.
She closed her eyes and when she eventually spoke she told me that I would miss out on some of the best parts of my life if I stayed in Seattle. She went on to assure me that Seattle "would always remain a part of my life". And she was so right. Despite leaving I have returned to work on projects continuously nearly every year for three decades planning dozens of new civic buildings all over the Puget Sound.
But this trip was simply for fun.
And, I was lucky enough to be traveling with a friend that had never visited Seattle before. I love showing off favorite places to people that have never been there. Yet, visiting Seattle in its post riot and injured state, left me with some heartache.
We tried to look past that. We visited my favorite quirky places and took in its crystalline blue skies, endless views, wonderful food and mild temperatures.
Here's Roadboy's long post riot, pandemic weekend in the Emerald City.
Day One (Thursday): Normally I travel from the airport to downtown via light rail. The rail line runs from the Airport to downtown via the Rainier Valley and the International District. It now continues on to the University (or as locals call it "The U"). Seattle light rail tickets allow transfers to its city buses and electric trolleys, so it is easy to get almost anywhere.
This trip, with a global pandemic raging, I instead opted for a rental car and our first stop was SeaTac's newish consolidated car rental facility. There we found our car rental company closed (staff tested positive for Covid).
So we punted to a different car rental company and made our way to check in to our AirBNB. "Ole Dan's" AirBNB was on a quiet, woodsy street on the Northwest slope of Queen Anne Hill. It was part of a comfy family home and came complete with urban chickens in the yard and a shady street with free parking.
We dropped bags and my nature loving traveling companion and I set out for a scenic drive to the North tip of Whidbey Island and Deception Pass. Here, we crossed over the pair of Depression era bridges that link the Island to the mainland. And, from the middle of the bridge, we could watch seals below in the narrow pass intercepting dinner.
Glorious Depression Era Steel Below the Span at Deception Pass
After the drive it was off to see the Fremont Troll, drink some local beer and eat some hearty pub food.
Day Two (Friday): The weather forecast included a little rain, so we opted for a trip to a favorite Gallery (Stonington in Pioneer Square), the Pike Place Market and dinner on Lake Union.
The Market was pretty nice to visit without the usual summer mobs. Sadly, there were no Flying Fish, but there were halibut cheeks (Yum!) for sale.
Friday at the Market
While at Pike Place we ate some amazing crumpets, perused some of the specialty shops (I even found some replacement Fiestaware® I needed), watched the big cheese making machines in action and bought some sour cherry preserves from Chukar Cherries.
We also descended below the market to Post Alley and the infamous "wall of gum". The gum wall fills a little tunnel with a peppermint smelling oddity that is unique to Seattle.
The Post Alley Gum Walls
Perhaps Seattle's quirkiest (and likely germiest) attraction, the Post Alley gum wall began when patrons to the Market Theater started depositing gum with coins pressed in for good luck on the alley walls. It collected until 2015 when it had to be removed for some sort of repairs. The harvest netted over 2,000 lbs of gum. Today, there is another 5 years of accumulated gum.
Best not to ask "Why?"
Some things simply defy answers.
Ms. C. at the Wall-O-Gum
Pandemic Statement
The alley is also a great place for street art as well with this paste up pretty much summing up my feelings about 2020.
Deal With This
From the Market we made a stop back to our apartment and then set off to meet friends for alder smoked
salmon on Lake Union at Ivar Haglund's venerable Salmon House. This trip
seating inside was limited to immediate family members, so we sat on
Ivar's dock and watched the aquatic parade moving between Lake Union and
Portage Bay. Although its location and views can't be beat The Salmon
House seems to have lots its soul a bit over the years. It's focus now
includes ribs (?) and now just feels off. Nothing lasts forever I guess.
I did confirm that the neighbor's vintage travel trailer bird houses (which I love) still fly high at the office next door.
Trailers for Migratory Avian Tenants
Day Three (Saturday): Today seemed like a perfect day to venture up to Capital Hill to visit Elliott Bay Books. When I lived in Seattle Capital Hill was the epicenter of Seattle's gay life. It had lots of nightclubs, a high crime rate and a QFC supermarket that was arguably the "crusiest" grocery store on planet earth "Leathermen on Aisle 3".
In the years since, Capital Hill has gentrified. It has a much more diverse population and has experienced a big drop in crime. However, when tension boiled over recently, Capital Hill turned out to be the place where the rage erupted.
The result is lots of plywood on businesses and the once lovingly restored Cal Anderson Park is a heartbreaking wreck of graffiti, broken lights, homeless encampments and piles of trash.
But like everything in Seattle, I'm confident Capital Hill will reinvent itself once again and come back better than before.
A Capital Hill Merchant Weighs In
Before leaving Capital Hill we veered off course a little to see the Jimi Hendrix Statue on Broadway across from Seattle Central College (his alma mater).
The Electric Lady Studio Guitar
(Commonly known as the Jimi Hendrix Sculpture at Seattle Central College)
Saturday's weather was glorious so it seemed like a perfect day for a ferry boat to Bainbridge Island. What I did not realize was that Covid has reduced the ferry schedule dramatically. So we had a bit of a wait before our passage. Once on Bainbridge we visited a favorite restaurant where we could get a beer and (for me) a dungeness crab louie.
Such a Simple Perfect Meal
After dinner we made our way back to the ferry along with a bunch of cycling daytrippers. As the sun was starting to drop into the western sky we returned to Seattle.
I contend there is no better view of the Seattle skyline than what is experienced from the deck of a Washington State Ferry. Tonight was no exception.
Returning to The Emerald City
Tonight there was time to relax, chat and get packed for the return to the airport on Sunday morning. I can't imagine a better way to emerge from months of Covid seclusion. The return home delivered me (in my N95 mask) feeling recharged and happy.
My psychic was right again. I'll always return to Seattle.
In fact, it will always be a part of me.
Roadboy's Travels © 2020
