Days 1-2 Chatham
In all my years of travel, I'd never been to Cape Cod or Martha's Vineyard. So when my bike buddies decided to make it a cycling destination this year, I was all in.
Spoiler alert, I really loved it.
Whether it was the morning mists over the water, the incredible courtesy shown to cyclists by local drivers, our amazing hotels, or the food, I was smitten.
There is a Timeless Allure to Cape Cod
Getting from Boston to the Cape however was not to occur without tribulation. The tour was to provide us a direct shuttle, but in researching how to get there without a rental car I came to realize it takes some real perseverance and logistical skill.
So Sunday morning our fellow cycle tourists all started to assemble at the designated Logan Airport shuttle stop. It was a nice chance to meet each other and chat.
Well it was nice until it became clear that no shuttle was coming.
That realization came after standing (sweating) next to piles of luggage for two very hot hours.
Next came the realization that Vermont Bike Tours omits any contact information allowing a guest to seek help when stranded on a weekend. VBT's phone banks in Williston are closed on weekends and the only link they include in our handbook is for the travel insurance provider (to assist travelers with missed flight connections).
But, our group consisted of insistent and veteran travelers. No shrinking violets here. And the flurry (and fury) of calling began in earnest.
We called the hotel.
We called the insurance carrier.
We called pretty much anyone we could think of.
Eventually contact was made with guides at the hotel and a shuttle was ordered.
Note to VBT, the oversight in providing guide names and contact data resulted in the crappiest possible way of starting a vacation.
I am willing to give VBT one "accident forgiveness pass" however, as this, my seventh VBT tour, was the first where they left travelers without recourse.
The much delayed shuttle finally delivered us to the lovely Chatham Bars Inn where we met our guides Jason and Tøril who had been busy adapting plans. They quickly set about fitting us to our bikes.
Hydrangeas Were Blazing at the Chatham Bars
A Classic Coastal Resort
After the bike fitting a few tired riders went off to nap, a few went sightseeing and a few ventured out for the seven mile warm-up ride. I was one of the warm-up riders and was so glad I did. The ride was a sunny little ramble past still coves filled with anchored sailboats, lighthouses, and elegant summer "cottages". It finished with a ride down Chatham's picturesque main street.
Sunset: The Warmup Ride
Now it was time for a welcome dinner and a good night sleep. Cycling was to begin in earnest Monday morning.
We mounted our bikes on a misty Monday morning setting out for a doozy of a fifty seven mile ride. But, as we pedaled it began to sprinkle, then came full on rain. Then the rain came even down harder. Then the heavens simply opened.
We were soaked to the bone.
The positive side was we still had great green scenery and our rail to trail cycle trail was empty.
Stops along the way included the recently reopened Cape Cod National Seashore Salt Pond Interpretive Center and the iconic Nauset Light (immortalized on every bag of Cape Cod potato chips and on state commemorative license plates).
The Nauset Light
The Nauset Light on Every Package of Chips
The Nauset Light(house) is a red and white 1925 steel and brick surround built over the 1877 Chatham Light Tower.
It replaced the three sisters (three small wooden lighthouses that used to reside in the same location). An adjoining oil house stored the fuel used to power and rotate the beacon. The original fresnal lens is now on display at the Salt Pond Visitor Center after being replaced in 1981 with aerobeacons.
By the 1990's the Coast Guard set about to decommission the Nauset Light as it was 50' from toppling down a 70' cliff due to erosion.
At this point a private organization was formed to move the 48' Light 330 feet west. Ownership of the light was then transferred in 1997 to the National Park Service and the light now operates as a private aid to navigation.
Surprisingly, after many in the group opted to take the shuttle back to the hotel, those that rode the 28 mile return enjoyed clearing skies and a really nice ride.
We explored Chatham that evening finding respective dinner spots. I indulged in a warm bowl of clam chowder and a huge Irish coffee. Kind of a perfect night in my book.
Back in the room we all started the process to drying cycle gear (particularly our shoes) with room hair dryers. I then slept like a pup.
In the morning we assembled for a (very punctual) shuttle to the ferry to Oak Bluffs on Martha's Vineyard.
Vaxed, Masked, and Ready to Sail for Oak Bluffs
The crossing to Oak Bluff was short and we all set off to have lunch and stretch a bit. Then it was time to collect our bikes and begin exploration of the Island.
Next Post: Martha's Vineyard.
Roadboy's Travels © 2021
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