Cycling Northern Spain: Basque, Navarre & Rioja Wine Regions
Hemingway's Pamplona, Cycling the River Arga and a Vineyard Ride
Days 1-3
When it comes to travel I count myself as very, very lucky. Circumstances have allowed me to circumnavigate our beuatiful planet And, with every journey I discover new insights into our world.
When I was young travel was a rush. We had to move fast to "see" everything. Now, well into my AARP years, my pace is unhurried and I actually "see" the nuances of places I travel with a point of reference that has been enriched by life and decades by the little strands of history now magically knitting together rich stories all reinforced with every new image I encounter along the way.
And these days, the pace of travel spent straddling an "e" bike is perfect.
So, for my second cycling adventure this year (first was Martha's Vineyard / Cape Cod) we chose Northern Spain. This is the trip we missed out on last year when it was cancelled due to covid.
This year we confirmed the trip as soon as Spain reopened to vaccinated US tourists.
Travel in 2021, however required flexibility. We got a call informing us that the particular dates we'd booked were short of guests (so many Americans still timid about international travel) so Vermont Bike Tours (VBT) was only able to run two groups for this itinerary in 2021. And this is an itinerary that in a normal year would sell out. We were offered, and jumped on spots with an earlier group.
And rolling the dice paid off handsomely. We joined some wonderful cyclists from Colorado and Minnesota. The trip began on a shuttle from San Sebaastián into the cloudy nearby mountains to a small village where we met our guides, received our orientation and become acquainted with our bikes.
Then, we set off on a lovely 22 mile downhill "warm-up" ride through the tranquil Laurran and Araquil River Valleys.
Bliss.
After the warm-up ride we shuttled to Pamplona and the same wonderful hotel Earnest Hemingway called home wirting his two famous in two novels set in Pamplona.
The evening was capped by a wonderful welcome dinner at Ábaco. The dinner included veal nigiri, tomato smoked sardine / garlic soup, squid ramen (so good!), pepitoria style chicken and a desert of pistache baklava and petit fours. I found everything both beautiful and delicious.
Hemingway & Pamplona; Inseparable
The very name Pamplona triggers imagery of crazed runners in white pants and red scarves chased through narrow streets by six bulls. The "running" still takes place every July during Pamplona's 9 day festival in tribute to Saint Fermin.
I really tried to discern the legend surrounding Saint Fermin and simply came to realilze the legend really doesn't matter. There are just too many intertwined stories to sort out. People just come to be of the moment; many reckless enough to run with bulls.
There are only three rules to run with the bulls, You Must:
1. Be 18 years old
2. Run in the same direction as the bulls and
3. Be sober
There is no requirement about sanity and every year between 50 and 100 people sustain serious injuries in the 2-1/2 minute run. In fact, 15 runners have died since 1910. One suffocated, the rest were gored to death. 13 fatalities were Spainish nationals, 1 was Mexican, 1 was American.
Gran Hotel La Perla Pamplona
Day two's ride had us cycling loops along the mirror smooth Arga River. This was a liesurely ride on trails with lots of locals. Very nice.
Upon return to Pamplona we had light a light pIntxo lunch and used a little free time to explore Pamplona.
In the evening the hotel offered us a tour of Hemingway's lovingly preserved hotel suite.
Afterwards we were pared with local college students to go sample local wine and beer while "pintxo hopping". Our two students were from Costa Rica. They had a great sense of humor and offered a very honest personal appraisal of thier time living and studying in Spain. They were adorable.
Pintxo Hopping with Local College Students
Pamplona Nightlife Was Relaxed and Fun
Assembling for the Rioja Vineyards Ride
Day three was an exceptional ride. A sunny, cloudless day, calm winds and a 30+ mile mostly downhill ride through the exquisite Temperanillo Vineyards of Rioja. Along the was proud growers encouraged us to stop and sample grapes fresh from harvest. We happily obliged.
Rioja's Tempranillo Harvest was in Full Swing
Perfection
Spain's Scenic Rioja, Navarre Wine Producing Area
The Temperanillo
My ride was made even better when we encountered the Ysios Bodega designed by Spain's master architect (and a very personal hero) Santiago Calatrava.
Calatrava's Ysios Bodega (Winery)
Ysios
We also encountered a number of Dolman sites along our route. We stopped at the most distinctive one known as the "Witches Hut". These are neolithic burial sites date back 3300 and 5000 years. This dolman was discovered in 1935 and houses human remains of 39 along with beads, pendants and arrowheads.
The Witches Hut Dolman (Burial Site)
Our ride ended at the walled hilltop town of Laguardia. Here we had lunch and visited the Bodegas Carlos San Pedro Pérez de Viñaspre (wine cave). This family has been producing exceptional Rioja wines for 300 years.
Lunch and WIne in Laguardia
Wine tasting at Bodegas Carlos San Pedro Pérez de Viñaspre (Wine Cave)
From Laguardia we shuttled to the village of Ezcaray to enjoy a stay at the exquisite Echuarren Gastronomic Hotel.
Roadboy's Travels © 2021
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