The St. Regis Deer Valley

A Luxe Mountaintop Retreat 

I travel almost every week for business. Since my clients are government agencies, my hotel stays are usually in modest hotels (yeah I'm a taxpayer too!)

Now and then, however, I take a vacation day and splurge on something special. This week I joined some old friends for a stay in the new St. Regis in Deer Valley Utah.

In winter Deer Valley is the luxe end of American skiing. Snowboards are not allowed, mountain dress codes are enforced, valets assist with parking and carrying your ski gear. Multi-million dollar residences line its runs offering the 1% ski-in / ski-out accommodations. This is where the flared nostril set skis. 

In summer Park City and Deer Valley become lovely oases of calm graced with blue skies and alpine flora. Many nights are finished by gentle little storms. In summer mountain bikes take over the cat tracks.

For 30 years the prestige address at Deer Valley has been the sublime 5-Star, 5-Diamond Stein Eriksen lodge. In the past few years it has been joined by The Montage and the St. Regis.

Over at the family friendly Canyons Resort, a new Waldorf Astoria has joined the Grand Summit and Miners Club offering luxury ski-in / ski-out accommodations.

The St. Regis

To reach the St. Regis you drop off your car at the hotel's big stone porte cochere, then ride a leather upholstered funicular up the mountain to the hotel itself. The reason is because the hotel is actually located in a residential community that lies behind two sets of guard gates. Note however, when your car is delivered to you at check out it will be at the hotel itself. This allows you to take a drive in neighborhoods and enjoy breathtaking views that would otherwise be impossible for mere mortals to gain access to.  

The View From the Hotel Funicular

The Funicular Arrives at the Hotel

Once you arrive at the hotel, the journey leading to reception desk is tortured. Lots of walking up and down stairs. There is just way too much "sense of arrival."

As with many of the newer luxury resort accommodations, the St. Regis offers hotel rooms plus ultra-luxe 2-3 and 4 bedroom private residences (complete with private elevators and butler service).

My check-in / check-out was smooth and my room, being one of the smallest and most modest lodgings in the hotel, was just off the lobby on the first floor.

Albeit small, my room was lovely and filled with nice touches. The shower was cavernous. The soaking tub was perfect. The wardrobe contained an umbrella and there was a dock for my I-phone.

Large Well Appointed Bathrooms

The Bathroom Mirror Conceals a Cute Little TV  

Perfect Nightly Turndown Service

The grounds are especially beautiful. There is a two level play pool and 2 spas. The hotel offers a complementary evening champagne reception. Also, each evening at the outdoor fire pits, you'll find all the makings you need to create smores.  ;-)

Cozy Fire Pits

The Pool Area

Chaises on the Mountaintop

Otherwise Inaccessible Views From the Mountaintop

The main restaurant delivered friendly and competent service. My steamed mussels were tasty. But my tiny $36 slice of halibut was as dry as the Sahara; heresy to a former Alaskan.

Another pet peave. When room rates approach $400 / night charging extra for internet service is absurd. The fact that the St. Regis internet was crap ground more salt into that wound.

The St. Regis is part of Starwood hotels. There are a few shops, a fitness area and the Remede spa. Evenings in summer you may find yoga classes and free concerts at the base lodge. 

Roadboy's evening at the St. Regis Deer Valley was much enjoyed.

But.....my next visit to Park City will likely find me checking back into the Stein Eriksen Lodge or perhaps giving the new Montage on Empire Pass a try.

Roadboy's Travels © 2013

From Sundance to Olympic Dreams

Park City, Utah

OK, Lets just admit it, Park City is perfect.  

It has world class skiing in Winter and perfect dry, not-too-hot weather in summer. It is also a breeze to get to via a beautiful all weather freeway from the Salt Lake Airport. 

While I have enjoyed family winter breaks to ski in winter, I must admit I enjoy it most as a break from hot old Phoenix in the summer.

I really like renting mountain bikes and riding the abandoned railway corridor. Although the altitude can sure sneak up on you (my poor daughter found that out the hard way). Another option is to carry the bike up the mountain on a chair lift and then ride it down a cat track.  

In the fall, just before the snow descends, the aspen trees lining the mountains around the city just twinkle.

For the skier there is something for everyone.  From the family oriented ski hills: The Canyons and Park City Mountain Resort, to the elegant snowboard free "skis only" runs at Deer Valley Resort where ticket sales are monitored to assure that there will never be any lift lines. Deer Valley valets take you your skis from car to mountain and will inform you if the condition of your favorite ski attire is inappropriate to the resort.

At the complete other end of the spectrum is Park City itself. This is a town where the Town Lift allows you to ski to and from the very foot of Main Street. In fact when the town lift starts each day the power in businesses on Main Street flickers. School children in Park City go straight from school to the lift. 

When you mention its role in the 2002 Olympics to a resident they turn very wistful. It was a life affirming and unforgettable event that they obviously took great pride in hosting.

As one would imagine, there are world class lodgings in each of the various ski venues and lots of condos for rent (as long as you don't try to come over a the Christmas/New Year holiday or during the Sundance Film Festival).

Park City started life as a mining town so Brigham Young advised his followers to avoid it. This has given Park City a different character from the rest of the state. It is still a work in progress. From the ski-in multi-million dollar estates emerging at Empire Pass at Deer Valley to the mixed use hotel, condo, retail, entertainment developments near Kimball Junction. So far development has not gotten as tacky the way many Colorado ski areas have gone. So I have high hopes that it will remain livable and beautiful.

As for favorites. For a hotel, the best is the Stein Erickson Lodge. Its huge comfortable rooms offer views, fireplaces and big soaking tubs. While the lodge is starting to show the signs of its age, the staff here is first rate. Its rates are as breathtaking as its altitude in winter and it is a complete bargain in the off season.  Its layout makes it feel intimate. 

The Hotel Park City is also first rate. It lacks the mountain hugging location of Stein Erickson but has direct access to golf in summer. 

The incredible new kid on the block will soon be the amazing new Saint Regis presently under construction in Deer Valley. This hotel will actually be two large european style chalet style hotels connected by an elaborate funicular railway.  

For families their are two very nice ski-in Marriott timeshare / hotel properties in Park City itself. I have stayed in both and appreciate their abundant features, but I find the rooms in both suffer from really poor sound isolation. The lock-out feature for the timeshare function means you get to hear EVERY noise created in the adjoining unit.  The full service Marriott hotel itself is pretty tired. 

At The Canyons the Miners Club is the by far best place to stay. It has its own lift and offers huge, ranch elegance, condo units. The Grand Summit Hotel is a big timeshare resort and is way overrated and way overpriced. The Sundial Lodge is a bit more modest, but actually much more family friendly.

Restaurants change with the seasons.  Most all of the restaurants on Main Street will empty your wallet and leave you feeling ripped off.  They are trendy, over priced and marginal. The exception is the Wasatch Brewery that serves fairly priced, hearty food and great beer. Yes they do sell Polygamy Porter..........

I really like the Windy Ridge Cafe. Don't let its industrial park locale put you off. The Mexican food at El Chubasco is first rate. It is in a strip mall not far from Windy Ridge. The best restaurant in Park City is probably the Middle Eastern fare at Reefs Kitchen. A small family run cafe where everything on the menu is an adventure that tastes wonderful.  Frankly, when we get to the end of our rope in Another option is to just graze the Whole Foods Market deli in Kimball Junction. 

When I win the lotto I will buy a house here.

Roadboys Travels © 2008