A Couple of Nights in The Mansion

Bliss on Forsyth Park

What do you get when you renovate an 18,000 SF Victorian Romanesque mansion built in 1888, seamlessly add on 126 oversized modern hotel rooms, take off the top and pour in art, then stir nicely with views of Savannah's lovely 22 acre Forsyth Park? 

Savannah's Exquisite Forsyth Park

You get the Mansion on Forsyth.

The Mansion On Forsyth

The Mansion is part of the Richard Kessler's collection of unique hotels and has joined the Marriott Autograph Collection, which is sort of a hotel "codeshare"arrangement of unique hotel properties.

This week the partners from my architectural firm decided to make this our home base for our annual retreat. It turned out to be a great choice.

The hotel defines eclectic. History slams into modern art in every hallway. There is even an uber cool collection of lovely millinary lining a hallway.

Half of the Hat Collection

Each Hat - A Work of Art

My Favorite Hat 

The Beehive

You can see the pink marble swim area from the reception area. I also loved the huge model ship over the bar at the lobby. 

The Lobby Bar

In many Yelp reviews you will see visitors grousing about the Mansion's location on the edge of the historic district. Well I've stayed in many of the downtown hotels and am frankly delighted to have a lovely and quiet alternative to listening to loud partiers on the street at two in the morning evacuating their tummies.

The rooms are spacious, plush, and pretty darned romantic. I especially loved the large hydro tubs set smack in the middle of the room.

A Typical Guestroom

Bring comfortable shoes, and a pair of expand-o-matic slacks, the Mansion just a few blocks from the Wilkes House for a lunch never to be forgotten. 

And before you leave do stop at the Market for some warm pecan pralines.

Dearest Savannah, cheers, till we meet again!

Roadboy's Travels © 2012

Treasures From The Low Country

Dodging Tornadoes, Dedicating Buildings, and Lunch at The Wilkes House

I'm not sure what it is about the Low Country of South Carolina and Georgia, but it is a drug. Once you visit this place you can't ever really get it out of your system.

Many come annually to wear funny shoes, stay in gated luxury resorts, and play golf. 

Me I come to explore a place infused with history and enjoy a complete sensory overload. 

The first thing I always notice when I get off the plane is the air. This is not wimpy air. It is deliciously humid dense air. It is scented with the earthy fragrance of mud after the tides recede. It is air filled with birds and the sound of insects.

After the air comes the visuals. As you drive you are rewarded with views of tall grass marshlands that undulate with every breeze.

There are trees of every description dripping with spanish moss. Once you reach the ocean, you are rewarded with spectacular beaches with warm waters and turtles that return to nest.

Miss M and Low Country Marshlands

Then there is the food. With its diverse population and embarrassment of riches in fresh seafood, meat and produce, it is too wonderful for words. Whether it is a shrimp boil, a sweet peach, onions or pralines, this is a fine place to eat. 

But perhaps most wonderful are the people. They set a pace that is measured. They talk to each other, not just trade abrupt pleasantries. This is where courtesy is respected.

The main reason for my trip this week was to witness the dedication of a fine new police station for the Town of Bluffton SC. We had the honor of collaborating in the planning of this facility and it turned out to be marvelous. The building is technologically advanced, yet features a deceptively simple open plan that encourages staff to work together. It incorporates the work of local artists and utilizes new ideas in sustainable design.

Bluffton's New Police Station

Lobby Mural

Staff Space

Open Bright Workspaces

Surface Water is Cleaned Naturally Using Bio-Swales 

Bluffton's Seal

After the ceremony there was enough time for me to take a leisurely drive on two lane roads to Savannah. 

The Road to Savannah

My target was lunch at my favorite restaurant in Savannah. The venerable Mrs. Wilkes Boarding House (now simply referred to as The Wilke's House.)

This was not my first time here, nor Lord willing, will it be my last. After an hour or so wait in line chatting with some spirited visitors from Toronto, I was seated with 10-12 new friends at a big table that was already set with dozens of bowls filled with steaming southern cooking. Aside from the famous fried chicken (which is always served,) offerings vary from visit to visit. This time there was red beans and rice, collards, stew, pulled pork, black-eyed peas, flat green beans, okra, rice, mashed potatoes / gravy, marinated cucumbers, potato salad, cornbread, macaroni and cheese, and about a dozen other dishes. Dessert was banana pudding or a blueberry crumble.

Tears. Yes, I'm shedding some tears.

This is one of very few American restaurants to be included in the "1000 Things To Do Before You Die" book.

Just remember a few rules: It is only open weekdays from 11-2 PM. There is no parking lot, so bring lots of quarters for the meters (or take the trolley.) Reservations? Get the heck out of here. There is always a line. So rather than bitch about it enjoy it. Bask in the smell of rolls baking and make some new friends. The price is an incredible bargain at just $16 / person (half price for kids). But bring cash, as they do not accept plastic. There is no menu, but you don't need one. If you feel the need to discuss gluten, butter, lactose issues, your aversion to sweet tea, or any other unique dietary problems you may have - please, do us all a favor, and go someplace else!

It is not uncommon for someone at the table to suggest beginning the meal with a prayer. When the meal is complete tradition requires you bus your own plate, glass and utensils to the kitchen.

Come to the Low Country when you are in no hurry. Pack shorts and loose fitting clothes, a few comfortable cotton tees, toss in a pair of flip-flops.

Then slow down, enjoy the views, the food, the culture, and, most of all, the amazing people who call this magic place home.

PS: If you plan it right, you might be able to catch The Lady Chablis at Club One!

Roadboy's Travels © 2011

Savannah Images

The Beautiful Forsyth Park Fountain

One of Savannah's Squares

A Fish Shaped Cast Iron Rain Leader

Savannah's Rowhouses

Private Courtyard Garden

Savannah

Georgia's First City

When you ask people to identify their favorite North American cities they always identify a few big cities. Places like San Francisco, Seattle, Vancouver, Boston, Toronto, Chicago, New York, Montreal, and New York.

When I list my personal favorites most of the above certainly end up on the list. But, I tend to also gravitate to the wonderful smallish to mid-sized cities in North America; places like Santa Fe New Mexico, Revelstoke BC, Sandpoint Idaho, Colorado Springs, Banff Alberta, Napa California, Reno Nevada, Missoula Montana, Park City Utah, and a personal favorite, Savannah Georgia.

Savannah's Largest Square Forsyth Park

Part of the reason I am so fond of Savannah is because, besides being beautiful, it is so completely steeped in history and lore. There is a story about every square, every statue, and every structure. Even its cemetaries are good for an afternoon of sightseeing. In the downtown cemetary the Union troops were actually billeted during the Civil War (permanently vandalizing many of its graves). Across town the magnificent Bonaventure Cemetary is the final resting place of Johnny Mercer. In fact, the Mercer grave is complete with a bench that lists his seemingly endless string of academy award winning music from the Atchison, Topeka, and the Santa Fe right up to Moon River. Don't go to Bonaventure looking for the famous Bird Girl sculpture, it had to be moved to Telfair.

Spanish Moss and Typical Historic District Housing

Savannah is where Forrest Gump sat on a bench (it also had to be moved) and offered up wisdom and chocolates. It was birthplace to the founder of the American Girl Scouts, Juliette Gordan Low. It is Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil (the Bird Girl). It is "kickin chicken" and The Lady Chablis performing at Club One. It is were tutti frutti ice cream was invented at Leopold's and where the sweet buttery smell of hot pralines being poured lazily drifts through the City Market nearly every night of the week. It is home base to everyone's favorite celebrity mom/cook Paula Deen (buy her cook books, skip her tacky greasy spoon restaurant). It is the elegance of Garibaldi's dining room.  It is a Hopple Popple breakfast at Clary's, wonderful sandwiches at the Soho South, and terrific take-out at Zunzi's. It is where I will happily line up, chat with other tourists, and wait an hour or more to eat at our national treasure of southern cooking, The Wilkes House (Mrs. Wilkes Boarding House).

On a more personal note it is where my daughter attended the wonderful Savannah College of Art and Design (lovingly referred to by all as just SCAD).

Savannah is in Georgia's low country. It is essentially part of that broad swath of America's Mid-Atlantic resting halfway between swamp and dry land. It waits in the sweltering, sticky heat, for hurricanes, and is best completely avoided in summer. In the winter it is lovely, and even on hot days relief may be found a short drive away at either Tybee or Hilton Head Islands.

Savannah is home to lovely bed and breakfasts and a few historic hotels such as the Mansion on Forsyth. Sadly, it is also home to some of the most disappointing examples of chain hotels in America. The Savannah Marriott is almost near things and was built during their "icky bricky" phase (which I personally consider the dark ages of American hotel design, just after Gugi, and just before the return of chic). Anyone merely driving by the Hyatt will readily agree it is blight and would join in tearing it down. Ah, but the Desoto Hilton, that one is the most truly hideous of them all. It is out of scale (lets just call it what it is - butt ugly!), and it features surly service and poor maintenance. Why Hilton has not pulled its name off this one is a complete mystery to me. The more modern, feels-like-it-should-be-a-casino, Westin is actually on the other side of the river from Savannah next to the gargantuan conference center. Therefore, it has a great view but requires a water taxi or a drive over the beautiful Talmadge Memorial bridge to do anything.  

Mid-size hotels in the historic district run from very well run (the Marriott Courtyard and new Hampton Inn and Suites) to perfectly located, but marginally managed, hotels like the Doubletree and Hilton Garden Inn (both chains would normally rest on my list of favorite mid-priced hotels!)

With its numerous, elegant, spanish moss clad tree lined squares, cars in the historic district have to slow down to a crawl. This results in the historic district of Savannah being a perfect place to stroll or ride a cruiser bike. This allows for window shopping along River Street, the City Market, the French Market, Shop SCAD, or even the stylish Marc Jacobs Boutique. 

From an urban planning and architectural perspective Savannah is an embarassment of riches. Distinctive rowhouses surround beautiful private courtyards. Amazing cathedrals grace many of its squares and many of Savannah's buildings feature little touches of whimsy. Everything from cast iron fish rain leaders to the ornamental bass relief of the architect on the old Post Office. Most of the structures that house SCAD are glowing examples of how successful adaptive reuse of historic buildings can be. Check out the SCAD operated Gryphon Tea Room or its Ex Libris bookstore.

Sadly, as good as Savannah's old buildings are, the new / modern ones are pretty tragic. Examples include the awful Civic Center / Mercer Theater, the latrine tile clad Army Corps building, and, of course Safdie's completely freezer burned addition to the otherwise incredible Telfair Academy of Art. That is always the problem when a place reaches the point of being so special; history intimidates the future.

So grab those golf clubs, reserve a spot on a Haunted Savannah walking tour, toss in binoculars (wonderful bird watching at Wormsloe Plantation), and come hungry!

Roadboys Travels © 2008