$24 Billion in Shame

A Bargain....

Rant Warning....

I always try to avoid politics in my little blog. But, in an era when America suffers from a higher infant mortality rate than many of the far less developed countries I visit, I find sad irony in the focus of many of our elected officials.

Yesterday many of the same senators who still complain bitterly about auto industry loans (now being repaid with interest) eagerly extended $24 Billion dollars in tax breaks (gifts) to the most profitable big oil companies in America.

Gifts to an industry whose CEO's freely admit they no longer need them. Gifts that both President's Bush and Obama agree should be stopped.

As many Americans continue to seek work and families continue to lose their homes, they can take solace in the fact that the senators listed below just gave another $24 billion of your future away. For the curious, it means every family of 4 in the United States just gave big oil (another) $300. 

And, talk about a shrewd investment! It only cost big oil $56,000,000 in political contributions to the folks below to perpetuate this windfall!

Lamar Alexander TN
Kelley Ayotte NH
John Barrasso WY
Mark Begich AK
Roy Blunt MO
John Boozman AR
Scott Brown MA
Richard Burr NC
Saxby Chambliss GA
Daniel Coats IN
Tom Coburn OK
Thad Cochran MS
Bob Corker TN
John Cornyn TX
Mike Crapo ID
Jim DeMint SC
Michael Enzi WY
Lindsey Graham SC
Chuck Grassley IA
Dean Heller NV
John Hoeven ND
Kay Bailey Hutchison TX
James Imhofe OK
Johnny Isakson GA
Mike Johanns NE
Ron Johnson WI
John Kyl AZ
Mary Landrieu LA
Mike Lee UT
Richard Lugar IN
John McCain AZ
Mitch MConnell KY
Jerry Moran KS
Lisa Murkowski AK
Ben Nelson NE
Rand Paul KY
Robert Portman OH
James Risch ID
Pat Roberts KS
Marco Rubio FL
Jeff Sessions AL
Richard Shelby AL
John Thune SD
David Vitter LA
Jim Webb VA
Roger Wicker MS

If you meet one of these folks give them a napkin to wipe the oil off their noses.

Roadboy's Travels © 2012

It's Citrus Blossom Time

The Fragrance of Spring

For those lucky enough to live in or visit The Valley of the Sun in March or April, you will get a lot more than just sunshine and Cactus League baseball, you will get the chance to inhale the true scent of heaven. 

For this is the time of year when all of our abundant citrus trees bloom filling the air with a perfume reminiscent of jasmine.

What makes it even nicer is the temperatures are perfect to leave the windows open all night. So we wake to the house smelling fragrant and refreshed.

I suppose as the citrus orchards recede a little more each year, I must anticipate an end to this annual event. 

But for now...... 

I'll bask in the sensory overload that is spring in Phoenix.

Roadboy's Travels © 2012

Celebrating My Turf

North Central Near Camelback

I normally blog about locales all over the world. This post however features my own North Central Phoenix neighborhood.

First some background. Almost twenty years ago, when relocating to Arizona, our realtor drove us all over Scottsdale. Scottsdale's walled, country club conservative and ethnically monochromatic neighborhoods contained row after row of the same pink house with a new lexus parked in front.

I threw up a little in my mouth.

The notion of raising my kids in a gated community was unthinkable. So I asked our realtor where are the older houses? The houses where people write their kids name in the driveway? Where you can walk to a grocery store and to church.

Perplexed she blurted "I suppose we could look in Phoenix". Happily, that is just what we did. We looked at some wonderful old neighborhoods and bought a 1950's era ranch house in a former citrus orchard right off Central Avenue. From our new home I could ride my bike downtown, to work, to the Phoenix Art Museum, the fabulous new Burton Barr library, or the Heard Museum.

What we didn't realize was that our neighborhood demographics were incompatible with "hip". All the new and fun restaurants opened in Tempe and Scottsdale.

So, aside from some charming and wonderful institutions like Cheese and Stuff, Scotts Generations, Karsh's Bakery and Durants, if we wanted to eat or shop in someplace funky and new, we'd find ourselves going for a drive.

Still Cranking Out Very Good Subs 

And that is pretty much how it remained for a decade. Yeah, we got our own Boston Market, a few Quizno's, and an Applebee's, but when stores and restaurants closed in the little neighborhood malls near us, those malls pretty much stayed empty.

Then one-of-a-kind cafes and businesses started to pop up like the Coronado Cafe on 7th Street and La Grande Orange in Arcadia. In central Phoenix we cheered. Arcadia may be a few miles to the east, but "hip" finally had some Phoenix mailing addresses!

Then artists started opening up studios along Grand Avenue and in the no mans land between the Arizona Center and the new library. Before long the successful "First Friday" gallery hops began.

Not long after that the Lux coffee and Chris Bianco's Pane Bianco opened in an innocuous storefront right on Central Avenue. All the while the historic neighborhoods with their little wonderland houses began gentrification. One by one the houses in Windsor Square and Medlock Place were getting lovingly refurbished.

To cap things off, the sleek, clean, and quiet light rail trains now zip up and down Central Avenue. 

The Delightfully Walkable 

Windsor Square Neighborhood

History Rich Residences in Medlock Place

There is no question about it, Central Phoenix is experiencing its tipping point and becoming an epicenter of urban cool. From downtown's new lofts to its new Medical College. From the funk of Melrose to Portland Place, Willo, and the re-emergence of street friendly shopping plazas at Bethany and 16th Street. Seemingly everything is revamping right on up to the big chalk "S" of Sunnyslope.

For this post I am concentrating on the few blocks near Camelback and Central Avenue. This area boasts Smeeks where you can buy an Abba Zabba or soft Australian licorice, Frances (home of women's clothes and jewelry found nowhere else in the Valley), and Stinkweeds for music. You can get your flesh punched at Halo, or read a comic book at Samurai or All About Comics. There is  "Practical" Art (a unique gallery specializing in one-of-a-kind, artist created, everyday tools), and RED where all those "I Dream of Jeannie" kidney shaped coffee tables live.

Update 5-2013: 
Since initially writing this Smeeks (and a second shop for Frances) have moved to the lovely little "mall within a mall" at the East end of the Biltmore Fashion Park in a zone called "Union" (do check that out!) 

Candy, Fake Mustaches, Tom's Shoes, Cards and Metal Lunch Boxes at Smeeks and Frances

Update 8-2014
Sadly, the Smeeks folks had to leave PHX to return to their former home to care for family. 

And, since the last update we lost our beloved Karsh's Kosher Bakery. But the other local baking institution (Karl's European) reopened a nice little shop in Sunnyslope. And, Urban Cookies / Cupcakes still rocks on 7th St. near Highland. 

I notice that Union is refreshing its tenant mix at the Biltmore once again, and Frances is gone.

BUT! There is a wonderful new Changing Hands Bookstore on Camelback near 3rd Ave. (At the long dead Beef Eater's Steak House (a Beckett's Table is coming there too!) 

Z Tejas opened at 16th St. and Bethany and so did another neat little ice cream shop. I understand a Baby Kay's Cajun and is building there too.  

RED 

Purveyor of Mid-Century Urban Chic

After that we move on to a host of one-of-a-kind restaurants. No chain dreck here. Within just a few blocks you get St. Francis, Maizies, Hula Modern Tiki, Twirl (Yogurt), Windsor, Churn (Ice cream) and Postino's Wine Bar.

Update 5-2013

Due to the wild success of Postinos and Windsor, there is now Federal Pizza in the lovely former Al Beadle designed bank. Tammie Coe has a bakery there too. And the little restaurant in between? Well, it will soon be as yet another restaurant! 

Also do try Zooks (near Maizies for amazing little pocket sandwiches and an amazing Kale salad - but be aware Zooks is only open till 2 PM.)

Update 8-2014

Well Joyride Tacos filled that space in between Postino and Federal Pizza! And it is always crowded. AND they now actually have a real parking lot to serve all of those very busy Uptown Venture restaurants.

Of course a few blocks west Mary Coyle's still reigns as the grande dame of homemade ice cream in Phoenix.

All of these restaurants provide lots of parking for your fat tire cruiser bike and all feature flower filled all-season outdoor dining with heaters in the winter and misters in the summer.

We, the lucky residents of North Central, are now covered for breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner and everything in between.

 

 

So Many Choices

All of Them Great!

Update 5-2013
In addition to all of the action on Central, We now have the incredible "Yard" in the old Ducati motorcycle showroom on 7th Street (just north of Missouri). inside is a new edition of the "Culinary School Dropout" and (just recently) "Little Clementines" serving great New Orleans inspired seafood (the Po Boy - Yum!) 

While waiting there are lots of ping ping tables and other games for kids of all ages under the big old steel shade structure out front. The Yard has proven way too popular and parking is a nightmare. If possible arrive on a bicycle!

Nearby up 7th street also don't forget the new Otro (serving locally sourced and very inspired Mexican cuisine) and Fuego Bistro (with it's lovely courtyard and tasty empanadas.)  

Update 8-2014
Lola has joined Little Clementine and the Culinary Dropout. A new Spinato's Pizza opened  at Missouri and 7th St. (with great gluten-free pizza's). 

And if you are tired of staying in those big soulless hotels downtown, stay in one of the suites in the lovely and historic 1928 era Maricopa Manor Bed and Breakfast. From there you can easily walk to the light rail for a meeting downtown, a connection to the airport, or a symposia at ASU. And the Inn is just a few steps from many of the shops and restaurants listed above!

Maricopa Manor Bed and Breakfast

Welcoming Guests Since 1989

www.maricopamanor.com

Sorry Scottsdale, you can keep your overpriced chain store glitz, North Central is fast becoming the place to be for one-of-a-kind dining and shopping.

Damned Skippy!

Roadboy's Travels © 2012 2013 2014

A Couple of Nights in The Mansion

Bliss on Forsyth Park

What do you get when you renovate an 18,000 SF Victorian Romanesque mansion built in 1888, seamlessly add on 126 oversized modern hotel rooms, take off the top and pour in art, then stir nicely with views of Savannah's lovely 22 acre Forsyth Park? 

Savannah's Exquisite Forsyth Park

You get the Mansion on Forsyth.

The Mansion On Forsyth

The Mansion is part of the Richard Kessler's collection of unique hotels and has joined the Marriott Autograph Collection, which is sort of a hotel "codeshare"arrangement of unique hotel properties.

This week the partners from my architectural firm decided to make this our home base for our annual retreat. It turned out to be a great choice.

The hotel defines eclectic. History slams into modern art in every hallway. There is even an uber cool collection of lovely millinary lining a hallway.

Half of the Hat Collection

Each Hat - A Work of Art

My Favorite Hat 

The Beehive

You can see the pink marble swim area from the reception area. I also loved the huge model ship over the bar at the lobby. 

The Lobby Bar

In many Yelp reviews you will see visitors grousing about the Mansion's location on the edge of the historic district. Well I've stayed in many of the downtown hotels and am frankly delighted to have a lovely and quiet alternative to listening to loud partiers on the street at two in the morning evacuating their tummies.

The rooms are spacious, plush, and pretty darned romantic. I especially loved the large hydro tubs set smack in the middle of the room.

A Typical Guestroom

Bring comfortable shoes, and a pair of expand-o-matic slacks, the Mansion just a few blocks from the Wilkes House for a lunch never to be forgotten. 

And before you leave do stop at the Market for some warm pecan pralines.

Dearest Savannah, cheers, till we meet again!

Roadboy's Travels © 2012

Whats In Your Netflix Cue?

Bill Cunningham New York
He Who Seeks Beauty......Will Find it!

The ability to travel allows us opportunities to go to new places, experience different cultures, view beauty and fall even more madly in love with our amazing world each day.

I just finished watching a documentary profiling Bill Cunningham. Before viewing this film I was not aware of this 82 year old, bicycle riding, fashion photographer and New York Times icon.

Bill Cunningham New York follows him as he roams the streets of New York City on the prowl for new fashion trends to photograph. He snaps pictures of both everyday people and the glitterati.

In a time when our broadcast media and journalism dial up ever noisier and brutal ways to provoke us via cynicism and hate, this film was a joy.

I love the fact that the New York Times still hires this guy to find those willing to express their own personal style. And, what makes it even more wonderful is, he does it with genuine affection and kindness.

Please, do Roadboy a favor. Put this one in your Netflix cue!

Cause the world could use a few more Bill Cunningham's.

Roadboy's Travels © 2012

Profound Ground With Views of The Golden Gate

Oakland's Mountain View Cemetery and Chapel of the Chimes

A Statue at Mountain View

Ever Pointing To Heaven

Vigilant of Mariners on the Bay

Growing up in the East Bay there were certain rituals we observed every year. Watching fireworks over Lake Merritt on the fourth. Annual treks to the County and State fairs. A bag filled with chili burgers from a Foster's Freeze. Or, my favorite, an exquisitely rich jersey sundae from Fenton's Creamery.

On New Year's it might be Boz Scagg's annual black tie concert at the Paramount. At Christmas there was the yearly visit to San Francisco to see "The Tree" in the City of Paris department store. In Oakland there were the Christmas lights strung from house to house on Piccardy Lane. Downtown there was the elaborate holiday window at Capwell's.

And we always returned to hear the carols and see the amazing snow filled Christmas tableau presented on the grounds of the Mountain View Cemetery.

Mountain View When it Used to be Decorated at Christmas 

(From the Official Postcard)

Sadly, many of these traditions now just exist as memories.

This weekend I made a day trip back to Oakland to visit a favored aunt and friends. While there Miss M and I went to have a sandwich and some ice cream at Fenton's Creamery. Well, as usual, there was no parking anywhere nearby, so we drove up Piedmont Ave, and found ourselves parking in front of the Chapel of the Chimes. We figured the walk back to Fenton's would be nice. 

We never made it. The amazing smell from the Local Cafe intercepted us instead. We were rewarded with a warm spinach salad filled with black trumpet mushrooms, and topped with crunchy baked proscuito. I may cry.

Since we were already parked, and I have many relatives resting permanently in both the Chapel of the Chimes and the Mountain View Cemetery, I asked Miss M if it would creep her out too much to visit each. She was OK with it, so visit we did.

What a nice day it turned out to be. First off, you have to understand that the original Chapel of the Chimes Columbarium was designed in 1926 by Julia Morgan. 

Ms. Morgan was the first woman to obtain a degree in civil engineering from Cal Berkeley. She was the first woman to graduate from the Ecole des Beaux-Artes in Paris. And, ultimately, she was the first woman to be licensed as an architect in California. Her most famous commission undoubtedly is William Randolph Hearst's Castle.

While, certainly not among her most famous commissions, the Chapel of the Chimes is certainly one of the loveliest and best preserved. She planned the Columbarium as a series of small, perfectly illuminated, little spaces.

Intimate Moorish Style Spaces 

Filled With Natural Light 

Many of the Urns Look Like Books

Just next door and climbing the hills behind the Chapel of the Chimes is the stately Mountain View Cemetery.

This is a cemetery planned in 1863 by Frederick Law Olmsted (the father of American Landscape Architecture.) Olmsted's credits include: New York's Central Park, Golden Gate Park, Stanford University, and Chicago's 1893 Columbian Exposition.

According to the Cemetery website: 

"Olmsted took a unique approach to Mountain View Cemetery. His park cemetery integrated the Parisian grand monuments and broad avenues. Olmsted also drew on a popular philosophy of the times, American Transcendentalism, to help shape his vision of the cemetery. American Transcendentalism embodied Asian philosophy, which believed that all of nature flows from the same wellspring, that is, trees and flowers, water and air — and man — are part of nature."

At the base of the hill he placed straight "boulevards". He laced the hills with curved lanes and paths.

Mountain View has arguably some of the best views of the Golden Gate in the entire Bay Area. It is also the final resting place for many of the most famous families in the Bay Area. In fact one entire section of the cemetery is referred to as Millionaire's Row.

Opened just 14 years after California's Gold Rush, this cemetery is old enough to house marvelous statuary.

An Angel Contemplating Heaven 

Midway up the Hill

Offerings Left With The Angel

to Assure Good Luck

Another Angel 

Guarding the Bradbury Crypt 

Also on Millionaire's Row

Domingo Ghirardelli 

San Francisco's Chocolate King

Warren Bechtel

Founder of the Bechtel Corporation

This cemetery is final resting place for Charles Crocker (railroad and banking), James Folger (coffee), Henry J. Kaiser (steel and aluminum), Frances Marion "20 Mule Team Borax" Smith, numerous artists, writers, engineer's, physicians, educators, governor's and civil war generals, and finally Bernard Maybeck and Julia Morgan.

Whether it is the Bonaventure Cemetery in Savannah (former home to The Bird Girl statue from Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil and where John Muir camped for six nights while passing through Savannah), LA's Hollywood Forever Cemetery, or the Pere-Lachaise in Paris, a visit to a great city sometime's justifiably includes a slow stroll in a great cemetery.

We eventually got scoops of Fenton's Ice Cream (minus any parking issues) at their stand in the Oakland Airport!

Roadboy's Travels © 2012

Arriving In Style

The View From the Hood

When I was a kid, nearly every Sunday night included dinner at my grandmothers. After the dishes were cleared, washed and put away I staked out a chunk of the shag carpet in front of her huge RCA console TV. The television was built of real wood. In those days a television was as much a piece of furniture as a china cabinet.

Assuming the vertical hold was working, and the bunny ears were aimed just so, that beast would deliver an hour of The Wonderful World of Disney followed by Bonanza or Gunsmoke. 

I would be transfixed whenever Walt Disney described some amazing new attraction being built at his magic kingdom in Anaheim. Then, as I got older, he'd showcase the amazing "world" his imagineers were dreaming up in central Florida. Yeah, I'm old.

Whatever we watched, somewhere between Walt and our weekly fix about the "Old West" Dinah Shore would belt out "Seeeeee The USA In Your Chevrolet!" 

Travel, in those days, whether camping, visiting relatives, or going to Disneyland, always involved driving. It was too expensive to fly.

I can remember driving for hours in the back of my dad's 2-door 1960 Impala. I loved that car. It had a real back seat, one that three adults could share without having thighs in a vice. It also extended well beyond the curvature of the back window so when I leaned back I could gaze straight up at the sky. During the day I'd trace the long airplane contrails slicing desert skies. At night I'd soak up the swirls of stars in a jet black sky.

We didn't measure status by personal computers, Dr. Dre headsets, or smart phones. Cars were our primary family status symbols. A Buick was a step up from a Chevrolet. A Mercury was a step up from a Ford. Besides our homes, the family car was our most important possession. Thunderbirds, Corvettes, Imperials, Cadillacs and Lincoln's were the cars rich people drove.

Cars held the key to our freedom. They were trimmed in acres of chrome. They rolled on fat whitewall tires and culminated in increasingly huge tailfins. Inside, they had big bench seats or sculpted buckets (without headrests), the dashboard might be steel or upholstered, but never plastic. We monitored our speed, fuel consumption, and radiator temperature with big gauges set in chrome instrument clusters.

And on their hoods, or "bonnet" if you're an Anglophile, was a hood ornament.

Now a January tradition for Roadboy is a day spent at one of Arizona's big collector car auctions where I join thousands of others in admiration of what cars used to be.

And, this year, I decided to focus on the amazing sculptures that used to grace their hoods.

Here are some for you to enjoy! If you want more detail just click 'em!

 

I realize that technologically today's cars are much better than the cars of my childhood. They are safer, cleaner, and more efficient. They drive much more precisely, are quiet, and feature symphony hall quality sound systems.

But today's plastic cars are boring. Most look pretty much the same. It is hard to feel any real passion for them.

We reserve passion for cars that touch our souls. Cars like this 1947 Bentley Mark VI....

What will today's and tomorrow's generations eventually gather to admire? Will it be examples of old computers? Old Playtstation's? Nintendo's?

Not.


Roadboy's Travels © 2012