PaliHotel Melrose

An Upscale Hostel?

Update 2021

The General Manager, nearly decade after I posted my generally less than favorable TripAdvisor review commented back they liked my reference to the hotel being "Cuter Than Kittens".

 

Update 2013
I see that Conde Nast has designated this hotel on their "Hot New Hotels in 2013" list.  

Maybe in the intervening time since writing this it this hotel has improved dramatically. Otherwise, a magazine whose mantra is "Truth in Travel" just dropped a notch in my estimation.

Some background. As an architect I am in the business of creating buildings that exploit the potential of their site within the parameters of my client's budget. It is always a delicate balance. With new construction options are pretty varied. With renovations, we know that the parameters on our options may be more limited.

For many years urban expansion in the US has been characterized by leapfrog development that crept further and further from the historic core of our city's. The result? Soulless suburbs with gated enclaves served by anonymous linear strip malls.

And while capital investment rushed to the suburbs, abandoned urban spaces were left to crumble. This wasted land, isolated communities, and made us 100% dependent on our cars.

LA was the poster kid for this. And, of course, it has never been a sustainable development model.

Now a troubled economy has focused market interest in the re-imagining of older, well placed, and underutilized building stock.

And fun new spaces are emerging via adaptive reuse. Inserting new restaurants, lofts, and retail spaces into old buildings, with modern infrastructure can make them appealing, while being environmentally sensitive. It also frequently allows a new business to launch much faster than if they had to build everything from scratch.

When done right adaptive reuse can be amazing.

So when I saw a teaser ad for LA's newly renovated Palihotel Melrose in the very wonderful Tablet Hotels e-newsletter I figured I'd give it a try.

The PaliHotel Melrose

The hotel is just a block west of Fairfax on Melrose. That is, by any measure, a great location. An energetic walk to the Farmer's Market, close to Canter's 24-hour restaurant, and right in the middle of lots of cool Melrose shops.

But there are some issues.

When I arrived I had to maneuver my rental car into the garage beneath the building. Parking is very limited and costs an extra $20 per night (the in-room hotel data says it should have cost $15). The garage is not served by an elevator, so if anyone in your party requires a wheelchair cross this hotel right off your list.

I know the hotel is new, and staff is getting acclimated, but the desk staff seemed indifferent to being there. The cafe did not appear to be open. There is no bar (yet?).

Maybe my code date is too far past, but for $200-$300 a night (even in LA) here is what I'd like:
1. I'd like a hotel with a fitness room and pool or hydrotherapy unit. None here.
2. I'd like a quiet room with a clock radio in it. Nope and nope.
3. I'd like an in-room coffee maker. Forget it.
4. I'd like to be able to control the heating and cooling in my room (i.e. my very own thermostat). Nada.
5. I'd like a decent work desk with proper lighting and a comfortable chair. No, no, and no.
6. I'd like a closet to hang up my clothes in and somewhere to put my suitcase. No and no.
7. I'd like an in-room phone. Seriously No?
8. I'd like a king sized bed. PaliHotel has never heard of em.

They obviously didn't forget all this stuff, they simply chose to ignore it.

The Bed (Nightstands Are Little Round Metal Stools)

The building has been cosmetically renovated. But, at its heart, it is a wooden structure with thin partitions and doors (without self closers?)

Finishes run the gamut of every possible shade of "too dark". Halls are covered by Tara quality heavy drapes (albeit good for their acoustical value.) Lighting in halls is best described as eerie with big filament bulbs. The designer had a fetish for filament bulbs.

My mattress and bed linens were excellent. The wireless internet worked fine. The TV was great. The mini bar had chocolates by Dean and Delucca! Can't complain there! The shower head was huge with greeat water pressure. Yippie! But......the pressure left me standing in a tub full of water due to a plugged tub drain. Yuk!

There was one plush robe (my romantic side suggests two in a room with a queen bed?) There were fine toiletries.

The Bathroom was Decent Sized

The Work Desk, Filament Light, and Odd Chair

Cute But Total Rubbish to Actually Use

A Ladder to Replace A Real Closet?

The PaliHotel tried too hard to be cool. And traded away basic hotel features. It actually comes off more like a (very) high priced youth hostel.

With some serious tweaking it can be great. But till then, for those who want to stay near The Grove / Farmers Market / CBS Studios, think Farmer's Daughter on Fairfax.


Roadboy's Travels © 2012

When I Grow Up

When I Grow Up I Want to Be....

1. What grade are you in?
2. Do you have any brothers or sisters?
3. What do you want to be when you grow up?

The most common questions we pose to children....

Of course questions one and two deliver numerical answers.

Ahh but question 3, it opens up the whole world. A doctor? A police officer? A pilot? A video game designer? A famous actress/actor? A chef?

For me from about age five I said architect. My answer typically drew a patronizing "well isn't that cute" look. 

I hated that look.

But, most of the folks that gave me that look are dead, so all is forgiven.

It is actually an amazing gift to know what you want to be at a young age.

So this leads me to Dorothy. Dorothy is a life-long friend. Dorothy has traveled all over the world. She has worked for famous cooking magazines, owned her own bay area restaurant and catering business. Dorothy always knew what she wanted to be.

And, the fact of the matter is - Dorothy cooks better than anyone I have ever known.

Sorry grandma.

So go read her new blog. I'll make it easy click here!

Come hungry.


Roadboy's Travels © 2012

A Boy From the Dust

Traveling to Survive

Despite decades working as a big city police officer he remained a country boy at heart. He saw things and people as good or bad. He could not be bothered to stew about shades of grey.

When he set out to do something, whether building a house, rebuilding an engine block, or refinishing furniture, he saw his jobs through.

He was totally loyal. He would think nothing of giving the shirt off his back to someone who needed it more. He found money on the ground everywhere we went.

I saw him cry only once.

Despite all the provocation I could muster, I do not recall him ever hitting me. I did, however, witness him lose his temper. Being Irish, it was truly frightening.

Soon after anyone asked where he was we'd smell Swisher Sweet's coming from the garage.

He had a head full of hair till he died. He got his height from his mom.

He was a lifelong Republican. As soon as I reached voting age I took great pride in consistently canceling out his vote.

Almost every female that knew him confided that, at one time or another, they had a crush on him.

His name was Meredith. But everyone (except grandma) called him Mac.

To me he was just dad.

Standing: Dad, John, Grandpa Bev, Vernon

Dale (in Front)

Born in 1923, he was the third son born to Bev Lewis and Alpha Iola in Mullinville Kansas. Mullinville, population 250, is located in Kiowa County about 30 miles east of Dodge City. Today Mullinville's claim to fame is limited to MT Liggett's fantastic folk art lining Route 400 just west of town. 

The family worked Grandpa's farm until the bank sent earth movers in to crush their farmhouse. After gathering whatever they could, the family walked beside their ancient (and overloaded) Ford from Kansas to Pritchett Colorado.

Our family knows what drives the banking industry. The only difference between their reckless behavior leading to the depression and today is their steady declines in integrity.

Upon arrival in Colorado his family of eight dug a hole in the ground, covered it with wood planks and rolled roofing and called it home.

His childhood stories never acknowledged poverty. They were just another dustbowl family working to survive. They ate a lot of beans and he remembered vividly the day a government truck dropped off fresh oranges from California. He said those oranges were the best thing he had ever tasted.

Dad described life in Pritchett as time spent working on Uncle Lester's wheat and broomcorn fields, playing high school basketball and dreaming of how to escape.

Working the Wheat Fields in Pritchett

Eventually his oldest brother (John) moved to California. He took a back breaking job busting scrap iron for transport to Japan. As soon as dad could go he also went to Long Beach to live with his Aunt Elizabeth taking a job at Consolidated Aircraft. He loved California and told me how excited he was to be able to go to the Long Beach waterfront to watch Howard Hughes fly his Spruce Goose. 

When Japan started firing all that scrap iron back at the US John immediately enlisted in the Army. Dad went Navy.

Standing: Waundia, John, Vernon, Dad 

Seated: Maxine, Grandma Alpha Iola, Grandpa Bev Lewis, Dale

Going to War

John was quickly sent to Europe serving under Patton. He survived the Battle of the Bulge. After the war he became withdrawn. He lived in the attic of his sister Waundia's log farmhouse and never talked about the war. After he died we found a cigar box full of medals.

In the Navy dad was a firefighter. He was assigned to San Diego and the Alameda Naval Air Station. In Oakland he met my mom at a dance at Sweet's Ballroom.

Mom At Yosemite 1945

Mom and dad courted in Oakland, in Golden Gate Park and at Yosemite (where she worked each summer.) He was totally smitten, sending mom postcards and saving his gas coupon's until he had enough to drive to Yosemite whenever he could.     

A Post Card From Agua Caliente 

On the back: "There is 3 Jackasses Here - the One With the Hat is the Biggest"

At Golden Gate Park

Dad After Proposing At Yosemite

He proposed to mom on one of his trips to Yosemite. They were married in a Lutheran Church in Reno.

The Wedding Photo's

With the war drawing to a close dad became a police officer. Being a police officer defined my dad from that time on. Dad loved helping people.

Dad Working Radio

While still in his twenties he was diagnosed with Type 1 diabetes. One generation earlier this would have been a death sentence, but the development of injectible insulin allowed for him to live a full life. It probably is the reason I am here to write this blog post today.

In fact, after witnessing many of his fellow officers fall to alcoholism, depression and suicide, he concluded that diabetes saved his life by forcing him to grow up, eat right and pass on the booze.

After raising a family, my parents moved to the country. He could once again fish and hunt and heat his house with wood.

Dad passed in 1998.

I guess if five of life's character defining events are:

1. Facing hunger

2. Being homeless

3. Overcoming serious illness

4. Shouldering a weapon in wartime
5. Working in a profession where you put your life on the line everyday

I score zero.

Dad scores five for five

Whenever we made family road trips if we heard Bobby Darin croon: "Oh, the shark, babe, has such teeth dear...." dad would smile broadly and sing along.

Nowadays I do the same thing.

Mack the Knife was dad's favorite song.

Roadboy's Travels © 2012

$24 Billion in Shame

A Bargain....

Rant Warning....

I always try to avoid politics in my little blog. But, in an era when America suffers from a higher infant mortality rate than many of the far less developed countries I visit, I find sad irony in the focus of many of our elected officials.

Yesterday many of the same senators who still complain bitterly about auto industry loans (now being repaid with interest) eagerly extended $24 Billion dollars in tax breaks (gifts) to the most profitable big oil companies in America.

Gifts to an industry whose CEO's freely admit they no longer need them. Gifts that both President's Bush and Obama agree should be stopped.

As many Americans continue to seek work and families continue to lose their homes, they can take solace in the fact that the senators listed below just gave another $24 billion of your future away. For the curious, it means every family of 4 in the United States just gave big oil (another) $300. 

And, talk about a shrewd investment! It only cost big oil $56,000,000 in political contributions to the folks below to perpetuate this windfall!

Lamar Alexander TN
Kelley Ayotte NH
John Barrasso WY
Mark Begich AK
Roy Blunt MO
John Boozman AR
Scott Brown MA
Richard Burr NC
Saxby Chambliss GA
Daniel Coats IN
Tom Coburn OK
Thad Cochran MS
Bob Corker TN
John Cornyn TX
Mike Crapo ID
Jim DeMint SC
Michael Enzi WY
Lindsey Graham SC
Chuck Grassley IA
Dean Heller NV
John Hoeven ND
Kay Bailey Hutchison TX
James Imhofe OK
Johnny Isakson GA
Mike Johanns NE
Ron Johnson WI
John Kyl AZ
Mary Landrieu LA
Mike Lee UT
Richard Lugar IN
John McCain AZ
Mitch MConnell KY
Jerry Moran KS
Lisa Murkowski AK
Ben Nelson NE
Rand Paul KY
Robert Portman OH
James Risch ID
Pat Roberts KS
Marco Rubio FL
Jeff Sessions AL
Richard Shelby AL
John Thune SD
David Vitter LA
Jim Webb VA
Roger Wicker MS

If you meet one of these folks give them a napkin to wipe the oil off their noses.

Roadboy's Travels © 2012

It's Citrus Blossom Time

The Fragrance of Spring

For those lucky enough to live in or visit The Valley of the Sun in March or April, you will get a lot more than just sunshine and Cactus League baseball, you will get the chance to inhale the true scent of heaven. 

For this is the time of year when all of our abundant citrus trees bloom filling the air with a perfume reminiscent of jasmine.

What makes it even nicer is the temperatures are perfect to leave the windows open all night. So we wake to the house smelling fragrant and refreshed.

I suppose as the citrus orchards recede a little more each year, I must anticipate an end to this annual event. 

But for now...... 

I'll bask in the sensory overload that is spring in Phoenix.

Roadboy's Travels © 2012

Celebrating My Turf

North Central Near Camelback

I normally blog about locales all over the world. This post however features my own North Central Phoenix neighborhood.

First some background. Almost twenty years ago, when relocating to Arizona, our realtor drove us all over Scottsdale. Scottsdale's walled, country club conservative and ethnically monochromatic neighborhoods contained row after row of the same pink house with a new lexus parked in front.

I threw up a little in my mouth.

The notion of raising my kids in a gated community was unthinkable. So I asked our realtor where are the older houses? The houses where people write their kids name in the driveway? Where you can walk to a grocery store and to church.

Perplexed she blurted "I suppose we could look in Phoenix". Happily, that is just what we did. We looked at some wonderful old neighborhoods and bought a 1950's era ranch house in a former citrus orchard right off Central Avenue. From our new home I could ride my bike downtown, to work, to the Phoenix Art Museum, the fabulous new Burton Barr library, or the Heard Museum.

What we didn't realize was that our neighborhood demographics were incompatible with "hip". All the new and fun restaurants opened in Tempe and Scottsdale.

So, aside from some charming and wonderful institutions like Cheese and Stuff, Scotts Generations, Karsh's Bakery and Durants, if we wanted to eat or shop in someplace funky and new, we'd find ourselves going for a drive.

Still Cranking Out Very Good Subs 

And that is pretty much how it remained for a decade. Yeah, we got our own Boston Market, a few Quizno's, and an Applebee's, but when stores and restaurants closed in the little neighborhood malls near us, those malls pretty much stayed empty.

Then one-of-a-kind cafes and businesses started to pop up like the Coronado Cafe on 7th Street and La Grande Orange in Arcadia. In central Phoenix we cheered. Arcadia may be a few miles to the east, but "hip" finally had some Phoenix mailing addresses!

Then artists started opening up studios along Grand Avenue and in the no mans land between the Arizona Center and the new library. Before long the successful "First Friday" gallery hops began.

Not long after that the Lux coffee and Chris Bianco's Pane Bianco opened in an innocuous storefront right on Central Avenue. All the while the historic neighborhoods with their little wonderland houses began gentrification. One by one the houses in Windsor Square and Medlock Place were getting lovingly refurbished.

To cap things off, the sleek, clean, and quiet light rail trains now zip up and down Central Avenue. 

The Delightfully Walkable 

Windsor Square Neighborhood

History Rich Residences in Medlock Place

There is no question about it, Central Phoenix is experiencing its tipping point and becoming an epicenter of urban cool. From downtown's new lofts to its new Medical College. From the funk of Melrose to Portland Place, Willo, and the re-emergence of street friendly shopping plazas at Bethany and 16th Street. Seemingly everything is revamping right on up to the big chalk "S" of Sunnyslope.

For this post I am concentrating on the few blocks near Camelback and Central Avenue. This area boasts Smeeks where you can buy an Abba Zabba or soft Australian licorice, Frances (home of women's clothes and jewelry found nowhere else in the Valley), and Stinkweeds for music. You can get your flesh punched at Halo, or read a comic book at Samurai or All About Comics. There is  "Practical" Art (a unique gallery specializing in one-of-a-kind, artist created, everyday tools), and RED where all those "I Dream of Jeannie" kidney shaped coffee tables live.

Update 5-2013: 
Since initially writing this Smeeks (and a second shop for Frances) have moved to the lovely little "mall within a mall" at the East end of the Biltmore Fashion Park in a zone called "Union" (do check that out!) 

Candy, Fake Mustaches, Tom's Shoes, Cards and Metal Lunch Boxes at Smeeks and Frances

Update 8-2014
Sadly, the Smeeks folks had to leave PHX to return to their former home to care for family. 

And, since the last update we lost our beloved Karsh's Kosher Bakery. But the other local baking institution (Karl's European) reopened a nice little shop in Sunnyslope. And, Urban Cookies / Cupcakes still rocks on 7th St. near Highland. 

I notice that Union is refreshing its tenant mix at the Biltmore once again, and Frances is gone.

BUT! There is a wonderful new Changing Hands Bookstore on Camelback near 3rd Ave. (At the long dead Beef Eater's Steak House (a Beckett's Table is coming there too!) 

Z Tejas opened at 16th St. and Bethany and so did another neat little ice cream shop. I understand a Baby Kay's Cajun and is building there too.  

RED 

Purveyor of Mid-Century Urban Chic

After that we move on to a host of one-of-a-kind restaurants. No chain dreck here. Within just a few blocks you get St. Francis, Maizies, Hula Modern Tiki, Twirl (Yogurt), Windsor, Churn (Ice cream) and Postino's Wine Bar.

Update 5-2013

Due to the wild success of Postinos and Windsor, there is now Federal Pizza in the lovely former Al Beadle designed bank. Tammie Coe has a bakery there too. And the little restaurant in between? Well, it will soon be as yet another restaurant! 

Also do try Zooks (near Maizies for amazing little pocket sandwiches and an amazing Kale salad - but be aware Zooks is only open till 2 PM.)

Update 8-2014

Well Joyride Tacos filled that space in between Postino and Federal Pizza! And it is always crowded. AND they now actually have a real parking lot to serve all of those very busy Uptown Venture restaurants.

Of course a few blocks west Mary Coyle's still reigns as the grande dame of homemade ice cream in Phoenix.

All of these restaurants provide lots of parking for your fat tire cruiser bike and all feature flower filled all-season outdoor dining with heaters in the winter and misters in the summer.

We, the lucky residents of North Central, are now covered for breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner and everything in between.

 

 

So Many Choices

All of Them Great!

Update 5-2013
In addition to all of the action on Central, We now have the incredible "Yard" in the old Ducati motorcycle showroom on 7th Street (just north of Missouri). inside is a new edition of the "Culinary School Dropout" and (just recently) "Little Clementines" serving great New Orleans inspired seafood (the Po Boy - Yum!) 

While waiting there are lots of ping ping tables and other games for kids of all ages under the big old steel shade structure out front. The Yard has proven way too popular and parking is a nightmare. If possible arrive on a bicycle!

Nearby up 7th street also don't forget the new Otro (serving locally sourced and very inspired Mexican cuisine) and Fuego Bistro (with it's lovely courtyard and tasty empanadas.)  

Update 8-2014
Lola has joined Little Clementine and the Culinary Dropout. A new Spinato's Pizza opened  at Missouri and 7th St. (with great gluten-free pizza's). 

And if you are tired of staying in those big soulless hotels downtown, stay in one of the suites in the lovely and historic 1928 era Maricopa Manor Bed and Breakfast. From there you can easily walk to the light rail for a meeting downtown, a connection to the airport, or a symposia at ASU. And the Inn is just a few steps from many of the shops and restaurants listed above!

Maricopa Manor Bed and Breakfast

Welcoming Guests Since 1989

www.maricopamanor.com

Sorry Scottsdale, you can keep your overpriced chain store glitz, North Central is fast becoming the place to be for one-of-a-kind dining and shopping.

Damned Skippy!

Roadboy's Travels © 2012 2013 2014

A Couple of Nights in The Mansion

Bliss on Forsyth Park

What do you get when you renovate an 18,000 SF Victorian Romanesque mansion built in 1888, seamlessly add on 126 oversized modern hotel rooms, take off the top and pour in art, then stir nicely with views of Savannah's lovely 22 acre Forsyth Park? 

Savannah's Exquisite Forsyth Park

You get the Mansion on Forsyth.

The Mansion On Forsyth

The Mansion is part of the Richard Kessler's collection of unique hotels and has joined the Marriott Autograph Collection, which is sort of a hotel "codeshare"arrangement of unique hotel properties.

This week the partners from my architectural firm decided to make this our home base for our annual retreat. It turned out to be a great choice.

The hotel defines eclectic. History slams into modern art in every hallway. There is even an uber cool collection of lovely millinary lining a hallway.

Half of the Hat Collection

Each Hat - A Work of Art

My Favorite Hat 

The Beehive

You can see the pink marble swim area from the reception area. I also loved the huge model ship over the bar at the lobby. 

The Lobby Bar

In many Yelp reviews you will see visitors grousing about the Mansion's location on the edge of the historic district. Well I've stayed in many of the downtown hotels and am frankly delighted to have a lovely and quiet alternative to listening to loud partiers on the street at two in the morning evacuating their tummies.

The rooms are spacious, plush, and pretty darned romantic. I especially loved the large hydro tubs set smack in the middle of the room.

A Typical Guestroom

Bring comfortable shoes, and a pair of expand-o-matic slacks, the Mansion just a few blocks from the Wilkes House for a lunch never to be forgotten. 

And before you leave do stop at the Market for some warm pecan pralines.

Dearest Savannah, cheers, till we meet again!

Roadboy's Travels © 2012