An Enigma and a Tuna

Japan Day 4

In 1936 in a discussion about Russia Winston Churchill said that it was "a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma". I think today the same could be said about Japan.

Just about every time I think I have garnered some nugget of pure wisdom about the place and its people, I come to realize I have oversimplified both. Japan is the proverbial onion, best peeled a layer at a time.

The fact is that this is a place of immense and rich culture. Its largest City Tokyo is unbelievably densely populated. It took about three days of walking around before I saw examples of graffiti. Its culture stresses conformity, yet its children seem to be pushing the limits of non-conformity in dress and behavior. It has incredible examples of technological splendor, yet a simple custom of washing ones hands before entering a temple is observed by old and young.

Its layers extend to every facet of life. From the entrance to my hotel I can see three different trains. Above me the monorail that goes to the nearby islands, then just above street level is the JR Line and an occasional Shinkanssen Bullet train (the sleek high speed trains that traverse the country at breathtaking speed). Below me are two Metro subway lines. Although it is one of the world's most populous cities, people walk, ride bikes, and really use the clean, cheap, efficient subways. Hence, streets are nowhere near as choked as I would have expected.

Compared to our visit twenty four years ago there are stunning examples of corporate wealth virtually everywhere. Yet, this trip we found many examples of homelessness. In our past visit Japan was poorer, but devoid of homelessness.

Metro Tokyo has over 12,000,000 people (for comparison purposes, thats a little more than a third of the population of the whole state of California - packed into one city!) and there is almost no litter. It is a bitter pill for me to swallow since I routinely pick up a full bag (sometimes two) of litter on my daily morning walks with Rocket and Daisy in Phoenix.

I'm happy to say that one thing has not changed. The Japanese are still generous with their smiles and unfailingly polite. They may be tigers in industry, but they are genuinely kind to lost tourists. They also respond almost immediately at our feeble attempts to say thank you or good morning in Japanese.

So I post another batch of photos. For those who are vegan, beware, this post will most certainly ruin your day.

Herewith, the amazing Tsukiji Fish Market.

Since 1935 the Tokyo Central Wholesale Market (more commonly known as the Tsukiji Fish Market) has been operating every day except Sunday.

Fish sold from its 1700 stalls are served daily in 35,000 restaurants. It starts about 4:30 am with the tuna auction beginning at 5:00 am and the stakes are high. One tuna can easily fetch $10,000 in the bidding. The whole crazy place is winding down by 6:30 am. Nearby are workman cafes with the freshest sushi in the world served up cheap for breakfast. Amazingly, among the noise, glare, rush of LPG powered carts and slicing of fish with 4' long swords, they tolerate an occasional tourist. Rainboots are recommended as the water from melting ice is everywhere. If you get in the way they let you know very directly with a nudge here and a nudge there. If you go, please be courteous, if tourists become too much of a nuisance they have every right to prohibit them, and that would be a darned shame as this is truly an amazing spectacle.

Square Footage is Precious

Stalls After Stall Line the Semi-circular Building

The Glare is Blinding

Thousands of Giant Tuna are Auctioned Every Morning

Tuna is King Here

450 Varieties of Seafood Are Sold

Many of the Tuna's Are More than 6' in Length

When Most of Tokyo is just Opening its Eyes

The Market is Packed Up and Winding Down

So if you visit Tokyo use jet lag to your advantage and experience the Tsukiji Fish Market. It is like Seattle's Pike Place Market on steroids.

Tomorrow Akihabara (Electric City!)

Roadboy's Travels © 2009

Team Roadboy Heads for Japan

The Flight and Days 1-3

After experiencing an international trip or two disrupted by late connector fights, we decided to fly to San Francisco a day early. It was a nice place to overnight. We even had time to venture into The City to enjoy dinner at San Francisco's excellent House of Nanking. The Sesame Chicken resulted in sighs all around. All we sent back to the tiny little kitchen were clean plates. Word of warning no credit cards accepted.

House of Nanking

(We Ate Just Before the Block Long Line Formed)

At SF Int'l Airport

One of the "Hats" from Beach Blanket Babylon

Then it was off to SFO airport and our flight. The flight on ANA was wonderful. Business class had lay-flat beds and movies galore (including a superb Japanese movie called "Departures").

My research paid off and we caught a shuttle that dropped us door to door at the Conrad Tokyo. The hotel can only be described in one word "Breathtaking".

The Conrad is a rooftop sanctuary in one of the world's most noisy and bustling mega cities. The hotel's lobby is on Floor 28 of a new high rise. The guest rooms start on floor 30. We had rooms on Floor 36. When you get out of the car, the Bellman asks your name. Before I could finish saying my last name, he said my first (without looking at his little cheat sheet). I was impressed. The atmosphere of the place is understated and Japanese minimalist. It is drop dead gorgeous.

When we got to our room we found a showcase for every gizmo you could put in a hotel. And, it has to be said, a way cool bathroom.

The Bathroom to End All Bathrooms

The bathtub sort of floats in the middle of the room. For a nice private soak, you can visually separate the tub area from the rest of the guest room by electrically lowering wooden slats that drop down from a slot in the ceiling.

But, nothing prepares a westerner for one of Japan's new fangled toilets. You have to remember the last time Mary and I were here was a quarter century ago. Back then there were still plenty of the traditional Japanese fixtures (and heaven help those who fail to leave red slippers where they belong, in the loo). So anyway I had heard about these new plumbing wonders, but now I confronted one mano a mano. First off, when you sit is starts making masking noise. The sound is like "toilet water running", which is kind of funny since the actual toilet flushes completely stone cold quiet. The point is its sound masks whatever noises you are making.

And when you sit, you realize the seat is warmmmmmmmm (and yes you can adjust the temp).

Then there is the sprayer. This is the feature that a lot of western guys find the hard way. If you reach down to push yourself up off the seat and inadvertently hit the wrong button it activates the tush spritzer!

OK, this is technology gone way too far.

The Toto "Washlet"

The Control "Flight Deck" on the Washlet

(Gotta Love Those Graphics)

The Above Instructional Sign in a Department Store Stall

It Pretty Much Says it all

Every Room Has Conrad the Rubber Ducky

Just Waiting at the Tub

Now Thats a Make-up Mirror!

Tomorrow the Tokyo Fish Market!

Roadboy's Travels © 2009

Wish You Were Here!

June's Gonna Be Busy!

Life never stands still, it just rolls on by. In my life that translated to two graduations in two weeks! Son from Brophy College Preparatory High School in Phoenix and daughter (Summa Cum Laude!) from the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) in Georgia. 

Both challenged themselves. Both kept their noses clean. Both have futures so bright they gotta wear shades.

Mr. B and a Friend

Miss M's Commencement at SCAD

Miss M in Front of "O" House at SCAD

In the next four weeks I'll be traveling to LA, Savannah, and Seattle. Then my family will get together and travel to San Francisco, Tokyo, Kyoto, Kamakura, and Nara Japan.

Whew! Expect lots of posts!

Roadboy's Travels © 2009

Chihuly at the Phoenix Desert Botanical Garden

A Fine Morning Walk

Update June 2009

Enjoy the memories and photos

The exhibit closed May 31, 2009

I have always been impressed with the "Living National Treasures" program in Japan. The Japanese recognize individuals whose lifetime achievements are considered so profound and unique that they designate them as nothing less than national living treasures. 

I guess the closest thing we have is our national Poet Laureate (but that designation changes with each change of political administration). If I had my way the US would also have a living treasures designation. Then my first nominee would be a true American original Dale Chihuly. His stunning glass artwork breaks the mold of "glass for utility". Chihuly's glass art objects are treasured around the world and are displayed in places of honor in the worlds finest museums (my favorite installation is probably the piece in London's Victoria and Albert). Another excellent venue is the museum of glass he created along the Thea Foss Waterway in Tacoma Washington.

For those lucky enough to get the last few tickets, a special installation is open for viewing here in Phoenix at our splendid Desert Botanical Garden. This garden is one of my favorite places in Phoenix anyway, so this morning's visit to see the Chihuly glass installation was a special treat. Being on the road so much, I frequently wind up missing the great stuff that is right under my nose. Thank goodness I did not miss this.

If you go, prepare to be dazzled. The pieces vary in size and shape. Some are small, others are majestic in scale. Some are carefully set among the desert garden's walkways and literally seem to be growing. Others just grab you and demand that you "look over here, now!"

From the very moment you approach the garden there are jaw dropping pieces seemingly everywhere. In this post I gladly used up a bunch of the megapixels blogger allows me. So please click away on these high res photos to get a feel for the arts real intensity.

On the Way to the Garden's Entrance

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Like Some Sort of Magical Agave

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Shimmering in the Morning Sun

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The New Walkways into the Garden

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"Flamingo's" With a Splendid Backdrop

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The Brightest Blues, Reds, Oranges, and Yellows 

Pieces Seem to be Growing  on Their Own

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In Spare Settings

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Some Scaled to be as Large as a Tree

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Vivid

A Nestlike Element Suspended

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And the Blooms of the Garden Are Found Everywhere

This installation closes soon, so if you can, go see this one. Chihuly in the DBG is truly wonderful. 

Roadboy's Travels © 2009

This Is The Summer To Travel!

It Is Crazy Out There!

This will be a short post. Over the past two weeks I have seen absolutely amazing deals pop up in almost every travel related category.

Last week there was a 12 night cruise (during summer) on Celebrity (superb cruise line) from Amsterdam through every major port in Scandinavia all the way to St. Petersburg for $799 with a $100 on board credit. That works out to $58.25 per night for travel, food, and hotel!  

Marriott is giving 3 nights for every 2 nights in points that are cashed in for their resorts this summer. If you register Marriott is also currently awarding double credit and points for staying in their hotels. They also nuked their blackout periods and announced rollover nights for road warriors that exceed platinum this year.

I just went back and rebooked hotels tonight for my families' upcoming trip to Japan this June. The savings in hotel costs from my original reservations netted about $700.

There was a $799 deal at Sceptre Travel recently for travel IN SUMMER to Ireland for $799. It includes the five star Adare Manor, airfare, and a rental car. 

In the past few weeks there have been sales for coast to coast trips on every major airline for $69 - $99.

Not to downplay the human tragedy of the situation in Mexico, but for a country that desperately needs our travel dollars for its very survival, this spring and summer travel season has been decimated by the perception of a "Pandemic" that has so far claimed fewer lives than one day of auto fatalities in the US. After talking to travelers that recently returned from Cancun, I was told there is no one on the beach, the hotels are empty, and the staff of the resorts are literally spending their entire days sterilizing every surface a human can come in contact with.

I know the economy is bad. I know everyone is scared of getting swine flu. I know, I know, I know.

All I'm telling you is the dollar is up, prices are down, and gas is cheaper than anytime in three years. If there was ever a summer to hit the road, this is it. For goodness sakes, Go Travel!

Roadboy's Travels © 2009

Sunshine and Coasters

2009 Youth Group LA Trip!

Over the years it has been my pleasure to accompany your sons and daughters on about 8 trips to California. Sometimes we go on buses, sometimes planes, yet while the mode of travel changes each time I am always impressed with how totally wonderful the kids in our life truly are. They are bright, articulate, and pretty darned considerate.

This year's spring All Saint's Youth trip to Magic Mountain and Universal Studio's Hollywood was especially nice. Travel plans went flawlessly and once again we enjoyed spectacular Southern California weather.

Day One:

After gathering at the crack-o-dawn we flew from Phoenix to LAX. The air was clear and the plane was on time. Once we arrived we all climbed aboard our big van for the drive up to Magic Mountain.

For those that may not know it, Magic Mountain is California's thrill ride central. It is home to 15 of the worlds highest, fastest, and loopiest roller coasters.

Once there we slathered on sunscreen and crossed into the park. Some went straight to ride "Tatsu" the tallest (17 stories), fastest (62 MPH), and longest "flying" coaster in the World. With its unique overhead support it literally holds passengers (victims) in a manner that simulates flying.

Others ran off to ride the perennial favorite X2 (which features a straight 90° plunge to the earth with passengers facing straight at the ground).

Still others went to (my favorite) Goliath. Goliath is the coaster you see from miles and miles away. It is wicked tall (26 stories) and holds the records as the fastest coaster in the park roaring along at speeds of 85 MPH.

Aboard Our Big Enterprise Van

In Front of Goliath

A milestone - This year no one from our group got stuck on Goliath!

Traveling Up the 26 Story Goliath

This is the place where second thoughts are born

Just Before the Initial Drop

Look at how puny the colossus coaster looks from the top of Goliath!

A Great Year for Water Rides

Trophy Time

Admiring a temporary henna tattoo

The gorgeous weather did have a drawback, as it resulted in big crowds and long lines. But we stayed and played till the park closed and then poured into big comfy beds at the LAX Hilton.

Day Two:

On the morning of day two we assembled in the hotel lobby and drove toward the "Hollywood" sign and Universal Studios. Once there many started their day with a big crepe breakfast on the Universal Citywalk. The weather was beautiful again, but luckily, the crowds from Magic Mountain did not reappear for a Sunday at Universal. This made for short lines and access to any and all of its rides and shows.

At The Gates to Universal Studios Hollywood

A Group Shot with Bart and Homer

Doh Doh Doh

A Welcome from Universal's Big NY Cop

Once inside Universal nearly everyone started by riding the new Simpson's ride. It is a hurky jerky ride through Krustyland. We then followed that with a spin on the (cell phone eating) Curse of the Mummy, and then a cruise on our old favorite Jurassic Park. The group then went their own separate ways, but many went on the backlot tour.

The backlot tour was very different this year as a result of the huge 2008 fire. Sadly, the original King Kong with his banana breath and Marty McFly's Back-to-the-future courthouse square are gone forever. But, like everything else in the movies, Universal is rebuilding (updating) both and, newer and better versions will be soon appear.

Construction on The New Backlot was in Full Force

Work crews were everywhere despite it being a Sunday

We reassembled at 3:30 on Sunday afternoon and made our way back to LAX. Everyone simultaneously jammed I-pod earphones in their ears and then slept all the flight home.

It was another great trip where everyone came away with new, or even better, friends.

Roadboy's Travels © 2009

Ghosts of the West

Who Ya Gonna Call?

When I was a kid America was still watching television westerns. We had Bonanza and Gunsmoke. Ronald Reagan hosted for Death Valley Days and Roy Rogers and Dale Evans crooned "Happy Trails to You" every week. It was magic.

It was the time of John Wayne and Gary Cooper. Well before the onslaught of gritty Spaghetti Westerns and the snear of Clint Eastwood.

When I grew up people actually bought wagon wheel furniture and every boy on the block had a cowboy hat, and a holster complete with a six shooter. Of course all the toy guns used caps. The smell of exploded caps was great wasn't it?

While the campfires of the television cowboys have all been snuffed, ghost towns in the west still exist and they still conjure up images of stagecoaches, miners, clanky spur clad sheriff's walking on wood plank sidewalks, and the fearless riders of the Pony Express.

Nowadays if you want to see the best ghost towns you'll have to take a little time and drive well out of your way, cause the best ones are a long way from population centers.  I'm not talking about tourist traps like Boothill in Dodge City, Kansas or the OK Corral in Tombstone Arizona. I'm talking about the amazing condition of Bodie, California, the Independence Mine in Alaska, or the ruins of Rhyolite, Nevada.

Ghost towns exist in various states from fully restored (i.e. like Calico or Columbia in California) to "arrested decay" like Bodie.   

                                                                                             

Rhyolite Nevada

At the Edge of Death Valley

Rhyolite, Nevada is one of my favorites because of its location near Death Valley. I happen to love Death Valley. Its geology is stunning and I love the lore of everything from its mining days to its camel races. It is just 23 miles from Skidoo and home to a magnificent unfinished mediterranean castle (Death Valley Scottie's Castle) at the extreme north end of the park. I'm saving a separate blog for America's eccentric's and their castles.

Just outside the east end of the park is Rhyolite, Nevada. Built to support the Bullfrog Mining District it faded away fast with the collapse of San Francisco's financial markets after the earthquake of 1906.

When the sun sets each day in Rhyolite it takes very little imagination to believe that ghosts still own the night in its skeletal structures.  One of its buildings was made from thousands of green beer bottles. 

If you get a chance take a detour to nearby Death Valley Junction and the Amargosa Opera House. The Opera House was built between 1923-1925 by the Pacific Coast Borax Company. It survives today because in 1968 Marta Becket, a former dancer for the Radio City Music Hall, restored the little opera house. At first she performed to small crowds and had to paint an entire audience to keep her company. She has now been at it for over 4 decades. The curtain still rises at Amargosa.

 

Rhyolite's Bank

Virginia City, Nevada

Queen of the Comstock

As a result of the Comstock Lode gold and silver strikes in 1859 Virginia City Nevada literally appeared overnight. It grew to boast a population of 30,000 making it one of the largest City's west of the Mississippi. It had the first elevator in the west. This is where Samuel Clemens first used the pen name "Mark Twain" while working as a reporter at the Virginia City Territorial Enterprise. In fact when there wasn't any news in Virginia City Twain observed that "The seemingly tranquil Enterprise office became a ghastly factory of slaughter, mutilation, and general destruction".

Money flowed from Virginia City's mines till about 1898. The treasures of the Comstock built the mansions on Nob Hill in San Francisco and helped finance the Civil War.

The Comstock mines were so productive that San Francisco's Adolph Sutro invested in the construction of elaborate tunnels to drain them. Alas his timing was off and the mines played out just about the same time his amazing feats of civil engineering were completed. Virginia City is touristy, but it has good bones.

Jerome, Arizona

In Arizona we have Jerome and Bisbee. While Jerome's miner's sought gold, they found copper instead. As far as being a ghost town it is a relative newcomer with its mines finally closing in 1953. Its allure is the way it clings tenaciously to the side of Cleopatra Hill.

 

The Jail 

Jerome, Arizona

A House in Bodie

Bodie, California

Ah, Bodie. This one gets my vote for the coolest of western ghost towns.  It is about 12 miles off the road about halfway between Reno and Death Valley on the quiet side of the Sierra's. So in point of fact it is dead flat in the middle of glorious nowhere.  It has been protected by the State of California since the early 1960's and its condition makes you wonder why everyone just got up one day and simply walked away. There is furniture in the houses and canned goods on the shelves in its stores.   

Arrested Decay

Bodie, CA

Bodie Hillside

Bodie California

Bodie's Church

Commercial Street

Bodie, California

These towns are the desolate, windy, dusty, homes for the west's hardiest ghosts.

Roadboy's Travels © 2009