Seeing Tuscany By Bicycle

So Much To See - So Little Shoulder

Today was a day I had really looked forward to. I jumped on a rented, yet very nice, Scott mountain bike and set out to tour at road level.

The route selected was probably about 14km and wound up including a few hills. But gravity provides the benefit of downhills for every hill climbed.

We pedaled past the town of Stigliano and made a first stop in Torri. There we walked into the amazing and well tended community graveyard. There were numerous loved ones caring for graves. Many graves are protected by extensive marble stonework. Most had photos of the loved one. Some were even equipped with electrically operated "flames".

 

The Well Tended Graves of Torri

We then pedalled up the beautiful cypress lined entrance road leading to the village itself. The cloister and church (and I assume the town itself) dates back to about 1000 AD and was updated in the 13th Century.

The Road to Torri

A Small B&B In Torri

We stopped here first as the lovely little cloister is only available for viewing until noon most days. The interior is designed as a protected arcade with protected views to gardens on two sides.

 

The Cloister's Internal Arcade 

with Stonework Reminiscent of the Siena's Duomo 

 

A View From The Cloister

 The Church in Torri

We then rode to Rosia and risked life and limb from the kamikaze drivers screaming past us on the narrow roads as we left town and began to climb hills.

We spent a little time having cokes in a very nice little restaurant in Sovicille. The stop was very much needed. We then rode down the hill to the flat farm land filled with acres of spent sunflowers waiting to be plowed under 

 

Biking Bliss - Tuscan Style

 

Sunflowers Everywhere

I can't think of a better way to spend a day in this spectacular place. Now if they could just add a few inches on either side of the highways I'd feel much better.

Roadboy's Travels © 2011

A Hike Along The Merse

If These Rocks Could Talk

It is very easy to spend all of ones time in Tuscany visiting the many historic hilltowns, enjoying fine food, terrific winery's, or shopping for local handicrafts.

We took one day to just explore "nowhere". This meant walking along the road just below Villa Donati; the one that leads to the little village of Brenna.

On this route it is a pretty safe bet we would not see other tourists. But how lovely is that!

First we came to one of the various watermill's along the River Merse. It was used until the 1950's to make cotton fabrics. While its wheels no longer spin, the water running to where the millrace used to be is still there and it filled with big rainbow trout.

One of the Mills Near Brenna Along the Merse

We then walked along the river itself. This led to a little bridge. We veered off and walked along the river. We found lots of local families having fun in the river. There were swift spring fed streams feeding the river at various points. Some places the river was pretty deep and the trees had rope swings attached.

Cascades of Cool Water From a Mountain Spring 

Feed the Merse at A Swimming Hole

We enjoyed the geology in and out of the river. In the river we turned rocks over to see what the fish were dining on. Along the trail we enjoyed the granite and sparkling quartz.

 

Wild Figs Growing Out of A Rock Wall

From here we climbed up an old trail that was pretty overgrown and required a little bushwhacking. Everywhere all I could think of was how I wish I could flash back and see this river a hundred years ago, two hundred years ago, etc. There is no question this river valley has been witness to history dating back from the Etruscan's to the GI's in WWII.

 

One of the Endless Little Shrines 

Found Seemingly Everywhere In Tuscany

For now, however, it is peaceful, filled with families, and loaded with big, healthy, trout.

It was now time to make our way back to the villa admiring the rich farmlands along the way. Walking we came across various shrines and hills bright red with iron. We could also hear the wild boars' rooting around in the fields.

Rich Fields Along the RIver

It is not often I get to explore without agenda. This trip I had an amazing guide!

Roadboy's Travels © 2011

A Day Trip to Florence

Living on Reputation

I've visited Florence many times over the past 30 plus years. It has always been an essential stop on any itinerary to Europe.

Florence The Gothic and Renaissance Treasure Chest

Today we had a day trip planned where some of the group would go to the Uffizi, some the Accademia (David), and some both. Since I had just been to the Uffizi two years ago, I passed on the Uffizi and limited my culture stop to the Accademia.

We parked at the incredibly convenient lot at Porta Romana. It is just behind the Roman wall. Here, you can park all day and pay at departure with a credit card. From this lot the Palazzo Pitti, Boboli Gardens and the Ponte Vecchio are a remarkably easy walk.

The Uffizi Gallery and The Arno

Note The Little Square Windows Above the Arcade 

They Identify the Vassari Corridor 

(The Medici's Secure Link Between Palazzo Pitti and Palazzo Vecchio)

Florence is filled with Gothic and Renaissance treasures. It is home to Michelangelo's David, Botticelli's Birth of Venus, Brunelleschi's engineering masterpiece Il Duomo, Palazzo Pitti, and Ghiberti's incredible bronze baptistery doors (which took 27 years to cast and Michelangelo proclaimed "The Gates of Paradise".)

These are amazing sights found nowhere else on earth. Florence's crowds provide some of the finest people watching anywhere.

Clowning Around at the Pitti Palace

Nonetheless, two years ago in a visit here I found myself having to make excuses for Florence. I'd explain "Oh, it used to be much cleaner." Or "It didn't use to to be such a tourist trap". or, "They used to take such good care of the Duomo and the Uffizi". And finally "Oh it sure has been getting more and more crowded".

Sadly, my visit today simply confirmed my impressions of two years ago. While I know Florence is (and always will be) the favorite destination for many (and used to be for me as well,) much of Florence today is just inexcusably dirty, poorly maintained, increasingly rude, and wildly expensive. Some examples: The Boboli Gardens - just a hillside of raked rocks and dead plants. The Uffizi - Ill kept, poorly lit, and hot. The food - had restaurants charge $6 for a can of coke and $10 for a cup of gelato.

 A Classic Cappucino Bar

 The Ponte Vecchio

Former Home to Butcher Shops 

Now Home to Gold and Jewelry Shopss

 

A Glimpse Into One of Florence's Private Garden

Perseus Slays Medusa
(What is With The "Holding Up A Head I Chopped Off" Statuary?)   

So, in sum, plan a day trip. Come, sample Florence's incredible treasures. Then leave it.

Stay in Siena or somewhere in the peaceful Tuscan countryside.

Roadboys Travel © 2011  

Pienza and Montepulciano

Extraordinary Tuscan Hilltowns

Monday was unbelievably special. I was lucky enough to visit two of the most incredibly beautiful city's in the Val d'Orcia.

The drive to each was also breathtaking. The hills of Tuscany are incredibly layered with agriculture Typically there will hills filled with vineyards bordered by the precise edges formed by tall slender cypress trees. Other places there will be rows of stalks of corn or sunflowers.

Pope Pius decided to rebuild his hill hugging hometown Corsignano. To undertake the effort he commissioned Bernardo Gambrelli to transform the little village into an ideal Rennaisance city. The finished product would have a main square, cathedral, and pallazzo's. It turned out to be a masterpiece and was renamed Pienza as a tribute to Pius II.

The City has been designated a Unesco World Heritage site and is now equally famous for its peccorino cheese (Sheeps milk.) The wheels of cheese are found in many of the stores throughout the village. I also found exceptional leatherwork and linens.

 

The View From Pienza

 

Pienza's Famous Cheese

The Duomo

 

An Old Bicycle in Pienza

Some of Pienza's Leather Handiworks

After a light lunch and a gelato stop (or two) we went on to Montepulciano. This city is justifiably famous for its magnficent architecture, stunning views and smooth Vino Nobile wines. Similar to Siena Montepulciano is laid out with various neighborhhods called contrade. Where Siena's contrades compete each year in its Il Palio horse race, in Montepulciano residents from each contrade compete the last sunday in August in an annual ritual of racing wine casks uphill.

 A View Looking Up to Montepulciano

The Cask races had just taken place so the City was festooned with contrade flags and a party atmosphere. We stopped for vino and basked in the unbelievable views.

 A Contrade Flag Holder in Montepulciano

A Classic Hilltown

The View from the City 

So there you have it, this is just about the most beautiful place Roadboy has ever visited. Tuesday has been set aside for a hike and a swim. Wednesday it is off for a day trip to Florence.


Roadboy's Travels © 2011

Montestigliano

Living in Villa Donati

This week I am a resident of Italy. For the next 7 days and 6 nights I have a real address living in the Villa Donati on the Montestgiliano estate in Central Tuscany.

Before arriving in the Villa I spent another morning in the historic inner wall area of Siena examining its beautiful Duomo and enjoying a "Gelato for breakfast" day.

It rained a bit

I then went to a huge local supermarket. I can't tell you how wonderful it was to peer into coolers filled with dozens of brands of fresh prosciutto. Then I moved on into the produce aisle and cried at the sight of piles of fresh soft fragrant peaches and nectarines. Nearby there were mountains of plump grapes with seeds. I came to realize that nobody touches produce until they carefully put on gloves. Then there was the cheese (tubs and tubs of fresh mozzarella) and the seafood...... 

I would have been quite happy to spend a couple of very happy hours in that supermarket....

But we had friends to meet and traveled the 12 km from Siena to the Montestigliano estate. This is a working farm in a region that grows sunflowers, olives, corn and grains. On the estate they bottle their own olive oil. 

Sitting on the top of the hill was the oldest of the houses; Villa Donati. Built in the 1700's this home dates back to the days of George Washington and Benjamin Franklin.

Villa Donati

The villa has 6 bedrooms and has been upgraded to five bathrooms. It has a modern kitchen and a big dining room with a lovely back yard with grape arbors with a western view looking west over the rolling hills and rows of cypress trees.

 

Tuscan Hill Country Views From The Estate

 

Huge Grapes on Arbors

Just Out the Back Door 

 There are two lovely swimming pools and the doors and windows of the villa have been left wide open all day to harvest the fresh air after a rain this morning.   

 

One of Two Swimming Pools At Montestigliano

I settled in, grabbed my camera and took a easy walk down the long rows of cypress tree. It was quiet and lovely.

The Trademark Italian Cypress Trees

Seemingly Define Every Ancient and Current Roadway

I'm never going to want to leave.....

Roadboy's Travels © 2011

Ahh Siena!

Italy's Hilltop Treasure

This isn't my first trip to Siena. And, God willing, it won't be my last. It is a complete delight. The summer edition of the famous Il Palio was run a week or so ago, and the streets and Campo still bear the trappings of the world's only true horse race. No offense meant to Santa Anita or Churchill Downs, but in those venues for a horse to win there has to be a rider on it's back. 

In Il Palio the first horse to cross the line - with or without a rider - wins.

Now that is truly a "horse" race!

I arrived into Siena by train from Venice (via Florence.) The 1 hour 28 minute trip from Florence costs all of 6.3 euros. But, unless you know this medieval town like the back of your hand, flag down a cab between the train station and your hotel.  

I then met up with old friends to enjoy a Bellini al fresco on the Campo before dinner. From there we watched a recently wed emerge from City Hall and get showered in rice (nice to know that there is a place where you can still throw rice!)

A Wedding Party in Siena

There was a free band concert on the Campo featuring a well volumed and eclectic mix of music.

From dinner we descended into the ancient brick basement of Guidoriccio for an amazing dinner. Since we were early, the owner fawned on us. He started us out with pureed veggies and bruschetta (I’m serious the bread was part of the puree). He then poured the best chianti I have ever tasted (a 2007 Rietine). That was followed with prosciutto and melon, risotto with saffron, pappardelle with wild boar, and pork tenderloins marinated in balsamic vinegar (I know it sounds odd, but was great). Desert was fig, raspberry, and blueberry (the best ever) sorbet from Grom. I loved it so much I did a total face plant in my blueberry sorbet. Took numerous napkins to fix that.

Siena's Center of Community Life

The Campo

And Home to A Magnificent City Hall!

Rant Warning!

I came away realizing that Siena offers a timeless lesson to elected officials and city planners. Yet, it is a lesson completely ignored in virtually all modern North American car centric cities.

Any real city needs some sort of vibrant center of community life. Sorry, shopping malls rarely suffice. 

And vibrant centers of community life should include fine, timeless, durable public buildings that a community can point to as a source of pride for the ages.

After sitting though endless City Council meetings all over North America - I can tell you in most places any decision where to locate a new public building will almost always descend to selecting land that is cheap, poisoned, behind something, hard to build on, and incapable of ever providing any tax revenue. 

Our priorities have become fiscal and strictly short term. 

Siena elegantly proves the deep flaw in embracing short term goals, rather than a more timeless vision. 


Conversely, could it be that we have unconsciously come to view our modern cities as disposable?

Roadboy's Travels © 2011

Venice My Way

A Day for Meandering

Well despite a long day of flying from Arizona to Venice, I arrived feeling pretty darned good. So I checked into my hotel, showered, took a couple hours of nap and then bought my 1.20 Euro ticket from the (exceptionally nice) Hilton Garden Inn to Venice.

Despite waiting for the mid-day sun to subside I still wound up walking for almost 5 hours. Bliss....

The Grand Canal Looking Towards The Rialto Bridge

I had only one firm destination and that was Ottica Carraro; Venice's home for one-of-kind, yet affordable, eyeglass frames. They aren't for everyone, but I love 'em.

The Glasses from Ottica Carrraro

Sooo Italian

The rest of the time I only had a general inclination where I was. Which, for Roadboy, is heaven. Cause thats when I stumble on stuff.

First off the Bridge of Sighs is in the middle of refurbishment and has been wrapped up in clouds. So, at least for now, it sort of has a Disneyland feel.

The Bridge of Sighs Has Been Seemingly Set Adrift

I then spent lots of time people watching, especially the kids (of all ages) feeding the pigeons on Piazza San Marco. Piazza San Marco joins Trafalgar Square in London and Plaza Catalunya in Barcelona as premiere pigeon / human play venues.

A Lot of The Best Stuff in Travel is Free

Like all Italian cities there were folks that were dressed like supermodels, mixed in with pure elegance, and a whole bunch of "What Not To Wear". 

Wow!

Wow?

The Music

The Food

The Art

David Slays......

Some Street Art

I can now verify that the Love Locks Craze I saw in Paris last winter has reached Venice. At least on the Accademia Bridge!

A Kiss, A Lock, A Key Is Tossed in The Canal

I finished off my movable feast with street food. A magnificent fresh mozzarella panini, a tall bottle of beer, and some cool mojito sorbet. 

Time for bed!

Tomorrow it is all day on the train to Florence and on to Siena, but I'll spend a couple of more days in Venice before I leave. 

Roadboy's Travels © 2011