Friday, July 6, 2012

The People Without Water



Sunset Crater, Wupatki and Walnut Canyon

I briefly escaped the summer heat of Phoenix this week with a mini visit to spectacular Northern Arizona.

I had three goals, find temps in the 70's, revisit some national monuments and ride the train to the Grand Canyon (which will be a separate post).

To those who have visited the four corners region, the history of its ancient people is fascinating. They had advanced cultures, built elaborate pueblo's and cliff dwellings and developed various farming techniques.


Wupatki Pueblo
(Click to Enlarge Any of These Photos)

Most of the tourists visiting the region go to the Grand Canyon, zip up to Las Vegas, maybe loop back to Mesa Verde or Sedona. Few will venture just outside of Flagstaff to the three fascinating and easy to reach destinations showcasing the power of nature and the remarkable engineering skill of Arizona's first residents.

Wupatki and Sunset Crater National Monuments are just north of town and Walnut Canyon National Monument is just east.


Wupatki National Monnument
Wupatki was established by President Calvin Coolidge in 1924 to preserve the Citadel and Wupatki Pueblo's. Years of vandalism and theft had taken a stiff toll.

Pueblo Detail

Access to the site was enhanced when in 1933 some of the 2 million men working in the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps) began working throughout the Grand Canyon region. At Wupatki they stabilized the pueblo's themselves, built roads, trails, and much of the facilities and infrastructure that serve the monument's today.

According to National Monument literature:
"For its time and place, there was no other pueblo like Wupatki. Less than 800 years ago, it was the tallest, largest, and perhaps the richest and most influential pueblo around. It was home to 85-100 people, and several thousand more lived within a day’s walk. And it was built in one of the lowest, warmest, and driest places on the Colorado Plateau."  

Although human history in the region spans 10,000 years, settlement at Wupatki was the direct result of the volcanic activities of Sunset Crater a hundred years earlier which forced inhabitants near the present day crater to abandon their pithouses near the volcano zone.

The location of the new pueblo's were suited for the trade networks of the time (copper, turquoise, shell jewelry and parrots.) Wupatki residents arrived around 1100. By 1250 they were gone.

Fragments of The Wupatki Community Pueblo

The pueblo's are easy to reach by foot and offer a rare glimpse into an amazing society.



Sunset Crater
In 1930, 6 years after Wupatki National Monument was established, President Herbert Hoover (spurred by local pressure) designated Sunset Crater as a National Monument to protect its geological formations. His protective efforts were triggered by the 1928 attempt of a movie company to blow up the crater.

In year 900 Sunset Crater literally emerged before the eyes of the inhabitants of the region. They had lived in pithouses and farmed amidst the rich pine forests and meadows of the region. After the eruption they moved on to Wupatki and Walnut Canyon. Their descendants are now the Zuni, Hopi and Navajo tribes.

Anyone walking the trails at Sunset Crater is rewarded by views of its moonscape lava fields and the  deep colors of the cinders lining the banks of the crater itself.


The Lava Fields

Sunset Crater's Cinder Fields Appear Almost Like Water


Walnut Canyon
My favorite stop of the day was Walnut Canyon National Monument. The oldest of the three National Monuments, Walnut Canyon was established by President Woodrow Wilson in 1915.

In 1125, at the very same time the Wupatki Pueblo was being constructed, the Sinagua (Spanish for "People Without Water") people were creating elaborate cliff dwellings in Walnut Canyon where they farmed, hunted, traded, and gathered useful plants

Similar to Wupatki, Walnut Canyon was abandoned in 1250 with the Sinagua relocating southwest to new villages along the Anderson Mesa (eventually assimilating into the Hopi culture.)

The key to a visit here is walking the Island Trail (also created by the CCC) into the Canyon itself. The trail requires some effort (240 stairs) but amply rewards visitors with direct access to cliff dwellings, views of amazing rock formations and wildlife sighting.

The "Island" of Walnut Canyon

A Typical Cliff Dwelling Formation

Along The Island Trail

Swirling Rock Formations

As I walked through the cliff dwellings and considered how its residents had to continuously climb up and down the canyon itself (at 7,000 feet in altitude) to accomplish all of their daily activities, I found myself stunned at their tenacity. 

Also as I walked I witnessed hapless souls staring at their smartphones complaining that they could not get enough coverage in the canyon to text while hiking. 

I stopped and actually had a good laugh. We have become a society of such jerks.

For those that want to visit there is a special "Flagstaff" pass available to allow a years of access to all three sites.

So, grow up! Leave the smartphone in the glovebox and spend a day experiencing real life while hiking in these three national treasures!


Roadboy's Travels 2012

Saturday, June 23, 2012

Travel Fragments


Just Some Stuff Along The Way.......


When I travel I always find myself snapping photos of things that catch my eye. Can't figure a theme to post 'em, but hate them to just languish in I-Photo!


WPA Era Post Office
Visalia, California


Love Me 
Graffiti
Los Angeles, California


Hope
Sticks on a Fence
Phoenix, Arizona


American Indian 
Terra Cotta Cartouche
The Cobb Building (1910)
Seattle, Washington


Boat in a Salvage Yard
Salt Lake City, Utah


"God Could Not Be Everywhere
So He Created Mothers"
Headstone
Oakland, California


Rio Grande!
Union Station
Salt Lake City, Utah


In Context
Union Station
Salt Lake City, Utah


"Life Takes Time" 
Graffiti
Savannah, Georgia


Eagle at Stairway
Federal Building
Salt Lake City, Utah



A Kiss From the K-9
El Cajon Police Department Photo Collection
El Cajon, California


There is a Vacancy at the Fun City Motel
Las Vegas, Nevada


Candle Sconce
Our Lady of the Angels
Los Angeles, California


Zephyr
The Burlington Route
Sometimes Known as "The Silver Streak" 
Chicago, Illinois


Mary 
Adoring 
Jim Morrison
Venice, Italy


"Wait Your Turn"
Airport Floor Medallion
Barcelona, Spain

I'll keep snapping!

Enjoy your summer!


Roadboy's Travels 2012

Saturday, June 16, 2012

Issey Miyake in San Francisco


and Steve Job's Black Turtlenecks....

Update August 5, 2022
The world lost Mr. Miyake to Liver Cancer
 
Architects take their inspiration from everyday life. We interpret popular culture, spot trends in color and materials and, if we are any good at all, absorb the shards of whatever is good about our world.

For me personally, just in my course of travel, or work - whatever, some things just stop me dead in my tracks.

As a teen seeing Kevin Roche's new Oakland Museum for the first time was one of those moments. I literally walked to a quiet place and just tried to process it all. The realization that space could be crafted like color or music left me stunned. The same thing happened at the former VC Morris' art glass shop on Maiden Lane in San Francisco. This tiny Frank Lloyd Wright gem from 1940 was clearly his dry run for his eventual design of the Guggenheim Museum in New York City. I remember walking in and sensing something profound.

While most of my posts are about the places I visit as I go about my life and work, I thought I'd share some photos from a very special exhibit. One that changed me.

It was the "Bodyworks" exhibition by Issey Miyake in San Francisco nearly 40 years ago at the original Museum of Modern Art. My apologies. In those days I photographed everything using an old German Kodak Retina. In more skilled hands that fine camera could have delivered better photographs.

Masterworks in Pleats

Born in Hiroshima in 1938 Miyake, when this show was staged, was reaching his creative zenith. He would withdraw from day-to-day management of his studio to pursue research activities a little more than a decade later.

Even today these garments of feathers, wetsuit material, wires and fanned pleats appear both timeless and futuristic.

Yet these pieces clearly whisper of Miyake's heritage; coming of age creatively as post war Japan emerged on the world stage as an industrial powerhouse.

This exhibit was astounding in 1984. It was simply decades ahead of its time. It literally took my breath away.

Feathers

Presentation

Grace

All Displayed in a Nearly Perfect Venue

History Referenced

I'm not sure if it came about as a result of this exhibition, but the timing of this show parallels the point where Miyake and computer maker Steve Jobs met. A meeting that resulted in Miyake making him a seemingly endless supply of those trademark black turtlenecks.

It doesn't seem possible to me now, but this exhibit was staged at a time before my children were born.

They are now creative adults themselves.

Time is as elusive as a breeze.


Roadboy's Travels © 2012

Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Priorities



Go For The Lemonade


Sunday my normal routine is get up, get ready for church, go to church. 

After church lifelong friends assemble and go to brunch. Usually we talk about what is new with our extended families. Then we trash our local politicians. News flash in AZ trashing politicians is almost too easy; few demonstrate any humanity, almost none suggest any grey matter. 

This sunday was different. First came a knock on my bedroom door. Miss M had missed her alarm and needed a ride to light rail to go to PHX ComicCon where she had a booth.

I said not a problem and we got into the car and drove down the street. 

At the end of our street a kid had set up a lemonade stand. Classic stand. The table with a pitcher of ice, plastic glasses. He was rocking his cardboard sign up and down to get our attention. Miss M informed me  he was there yesterday too.

It was too late to stop, we mushed on to her trolley stop.

She ran off and I turned the car around to head back to church.

As I drove there, I realized that I was hopelessly late for church. 

Yet, it all seemed to be right for some reason. 

I simply retraced my steps and pulled up to a very surprised kid. Who then proceeded to sell me a glass of very good, very cold, lemonade.

I said my prayer for the day. Thank you Lord! Thank you for kids. Thank you for blind optimism. And, of course, thank you for cold lemonade on a hot day.


Roadboy's Travels © 2012



Saturday, May 26, 2012

Spain and Portugal - Its On!



To The Contrary

OK I'll admit it I've been gnashing about trying to decide where to go for my summer vacation. And this year, with lots and lots and lots of exceptional travel deals out there, the decision has been harder than ever.

I carefully studied TravelZoo's Top 20 every wednesday focusing on Costa Rica, European cruises, and packages to Ireland.

But when I pinged my favorite airline's frequent flier site and found two business class tickets from Phoenix to Madrid at only 50K each way, I grabbed them.

I visited Spain in 2010 and loved it. I've never visited Portugal but have heard wonderful things about it. And, knowing that both countries are suffering economically and could well use tourist dollars, sealed the deal.

So, August 19 to September 1 Roadboy is off to Spain and Portugal!

Barcelona! Gaudi!

Regal Madrid

Anybody want to house sit mi casa this August?


Roadboy's Travels © 2012

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Entitled



What Rules?


Rant Alert!
As readers of this little blog well know I frankly adore most of the folks who devote their careers to the travel and hospitality industry. It has to be difficult to keep a positive outlook when working with an increasingly rude, almost pathetically juvenile, and frequently openly defiant public.

Over my thirty plus years of travel I have lost count of the amazing examples of thoughtfulness demonstrated by flight crews, hotel employees, rail stewards, even some taxi drivers.

A whole bunch of these folks start work at the crack of dawn, some remaining throughout the whole night to make sure that families, our armed forces, lost souls, and road warriors alike all arrive and thrive in frequently unfamiliar settings.

So with the preface above, and based solely on one little round trip today, I find myself offering up a few troubling observations.


Bag limits, big bottles, and trips to the backscatter.....

When the public approaches any TSA checkpoint we ticket buyers are held to rigid numbers of bags, limits on travel fluids, and unless pregnant or in the company of a small child, will almost always be ushered into some form of x-ray or wave device.

Now, having said that, I defy you to name any successful industry where customer service employees are accorded clearly preferential treatment over their very best customers.

Give up? Well think about it the next time you've endured a 45 minute wait at an understaffed TSA checkpoint only to have a late flight attendant blow by you in line. They then proceed to the front of the nearest screening line and shove some customers stuff back on the belt in order to jam their 3 bags and full liter of fluids into the mouth of the x-ray device.

I've had it happen with a lot more frequency lately. I used to at least get a smile or a "may I cut in?" Now days, many clearly feel entitled. 

And, of course, no backscatter for them, as the TSA almost always waives them right on through the old metal detector while the rest of us, hands over heads, get herded into the electronic stripper pole.


Turn the damned thing off

Then there is the infamous phone and electronics rule...

On most flights the attendants still warn that "anything with an on and off switch" must be switched off once the airplane door is closed.

Silly me, I take that whole cell phone thing seriously having read some compelling documents that suggest that our precious little gizmo's do indeed have the potential to actually screw with on-board aviation electronics.

One research piece noted that airlines now assume that an average of 17 devices will be running and transmitting signals during every take off and landing. Thats not too comforting....

So when I see passengers go to great links to hide their switched on phones from flight attendants only to produce them and continue using them on the runway, well I become one of those annoying fellow passengers that is willing to actually say something.

Take this morning....

On my PHX to LAX flight, I counted three out of the 12 people in the two exit rows working on fully enabled smartphones just typing away from taxi to just before take off.

One kept right on facebooking even as the engines revved and we rolled for lift off.

So, I reached over, tapped her designer draped shoulder, and in my best "dad" voice simply told her to "switch off the phone". There was no "please" in my preface.

She shrugged her shoulder wildly, not unlike a child. I earned a hiss that would make any reptile proud "don't you dare touch me!"

She then informed her seatmate that, "I used to be a flight attendant - I think I know what I'm doing."

Somehow she completely mistook me as someone who gave a rats backside what she thought about anything.

Her pride and self esteem were subterranean factors to me at the moment. What I solely cared about is she switch off her damned I-Phone.

Hey, the kids are fine. It takes a village to raise an adult.

Then it just gets better...

Almost as reptile lady's hiss is fading the flight attendant does a PA bark "Sir! You must sit down!"

We all turn and watch as some nig nog clutching his venti Starbucks cup scissor steps to the back of the plane shrieking "I've got to go, ITS AN EMERGENCY!"

I can see my brain as my eyes roll up deeply into the top of my head.



Fast forward to the end of the day.

I am now retracing my steps returning home to PHX on US Airways FLT 500.

What a perfect stroke of luck as I see reptile cell phone lady standing in line with her seatmate. I whisper a prayer that I will be seated nowhere near her.

Just then I get PA'd to collect my upgrade to seat 1F.

I am very happy. This was a last minute booking, so I missed the normal upgrade cue.

As road warriors all know, seat 1D and 1F are the only two seats on the whole airbus where you can see the forward flight attendants in their jump seats.

And, as we roll westward and lift off over the azure blue Pacific I watch both flight attendants each pounding away on their fully enabled smartphones "bidding" for their upcoming shifts....

They did switch them off. Just a little before we reached 10,000 feet.


Roadboy's Travels © 2012

Monday, May 21, 2012

Walking King William



Texas' Coolest Neighborhood


San Antonio's King (Wilhelm) William Neighborhood

To complete my final blog series from San Antonio I offer some photos from a walk in the King William Historic District. 

Sometimes referred to as "Sauerkraut Bend" (due to its location along the San Antonio river and being the neighborhood of wealthy German merchants in the 1800's), the King William is a leafy 25 block neighborhood near downtown. 

The land on which it rests, originally part of the grounds to The Alamo, holds the distinction of being designated Texas' first historic district.

When I visited San Antonio many years ago this neighborhood had sort of a "Grey Gardens" feel to it; with lots of amazing old houses all resting in a state of arrested decay. 

Upon my return this year I found most have transformed from moth to butterflies. History rich gleaming showpieces. I covet them.....

So please plan a couple of hours on foot or on bicycle to experience the King William. And remember the Blue Star Brewery and Pioneer Mill are both nearby offering super shops like San Angel - one of the finest outsider art shops anywhere, and food and drink of all sorts.

The Elias Edmonds House 1875
(Where Mrs. Edmonds operated a "Ladies Boarding School")

The Carl Harnisch House 1884
(One of San Antonio's earliest brick homes)

The Steves Homestead 1876
(Which featured San Antonio's first indoor swimming pool)

The Ike West Home 1892

The Norton/Polk/Mathis House 1876

The George Kalteyer House 1892
(Designed by architect James Riely Gordon - known for his Texas courthouses)

Stonework Detail Kalteyer House

Generous Lots With a Canopy of Leaves

A 1940's Moderne 
(Occupying the former tennis court of the Groos house)

Merely walking through a neighborhood like this starts everyone with a heartbeat daydreaming about what it would be like to live there.

I truly love places like that.


Roadboy's Travels © 2012