Saturday, February 14, 2015

La Madeliene, The Louvre and Notre Dame

Day 4


Wednesday was set aside for getting to know the heart of Paris by burning up some good old shoe leather. We set out from the hotel to walk to The Louvre. Along the way we encountered the monstrously huge Le Madeleine.



La Madeliene*




The Altar at La Madeliene*


In all my visits to Paris I never realized La Madeliene was actually a huge Catholic church. Somehow I had always thought it was some sort of national archive.

In reality La Madeliene began in 1182 when Bishop Maurice De Sully seized a Jewish Synagogue and reconsecrated it as a Catholic church. In 1757 a new church was designed using the Latin cross with dome design. Construction was begun in 1763 and was halted in less than a year.

Nothing happened again until 1777 when a new architect was selected to plan the church. He razed all of the earlier work and planning a completely different church based on Rome's Pantheon. But then the French revolution began and by 1789 with only the foundations and portico complete, construction stopped again.

As the country entered its post revolutionary period lots of ideas were considered how best to use the partially built church. That was settled in 1806 when Napoleon decreed La Madeliene should be an army memorial ad brought in another new architect.

Upon Napolean's fall, Louis XVIII assumed power and decreed that La Madeliene should be a church. Louis brought on a new architect (given up counting yet?) who worked on a church plan until the July Monarchy when a power shift once again decided it should be monument of national reconciliation...... 

or a train station.

By 1842 La Madeliene was consecrated as a church and just 7 years later gained international prominence as the site of Chopin's funeral. With such a fascinating and turbulent history it is heartbreaking to see it in its present horrible state of decay.

We then walked a few blocks to the Place de la Concorde to see where the Guillotine's operated during the revolution. From here we went on to spend many (many) hours in the Louvre.



Winter At The Louvre*



Diana Of the Hunt
(Pierre - Nicolas Beauvallet 1799)

It is amazing how I always anticipate spending 2-3 hours at the Louvre and (without realizing it) wind up spending more like 10 hours. Time just disappears. And, despite all that walking, I barely scratch the surface of France's finest collection of art treasures.


The Young Martyr
(Paul Delaroche 1855)

But, of course The Louvre is far more than an art museum. Its history parallels the modern history of France itself. The building began as a fortress in the 12th century and then was developed over time into a royal palace. It served as a palace until 1682 when Louis XIV opted to move his royal residence to Versailles. In 1776 the decision was made to convert portions of the palace into a peoples museum.



Ceiling The Napoleon III Apartments




The Tomb of Phillipe Pot 1843*



A Vase Detail
  
The evening was capped with views of Notre Dame. Along the way we did lots of window-shopping and people watching.

I love Paris....

Roadboy's Travels © 2015

(*Thanks to Scott for the Photos)

Thursday, February 12, 2015

Paris!

Day 3


Tuesday we traded the sunshine of Madrid for the excitement of Paris.  The transformation was delivered via a very nice (is that actually possible anymore?) Air France flight from Madrid to Charles De Gaulle. OK color me cynical but I am sort of taken aback when I get on a bargain priced short haul flight and find legroom, exceptionally courteous staff, a painfully easy check in and a tasty and free sandwich in economy.

Upon landing in Paris we boarded a Roissybus for a direct trip to the Opera (about 2 blocks from the Marriott Ambassador Opera hotel where I've cashed in a zillion frequent flier points).

After a bit of unpacking, a trip to the executive lounge for snacks (with a free rooftop view thrown in of the Eiffel Tower in full sparkle mode), there was time for a leisurely evening walk through the Galleries Lafayette Department store and around the Garnier Opera to finish the day.

And, initial impressions....Parisians are still skinnier than us, they are still meticulously dressed and they still smoke like fools.....


The Magic of Paris*



It is Soldes (Sale) Time Till February 11
At Paris' Department Stores*



Window Shopping is Pretty Amazing*



The Garnier - Home of The Phantom!

Tomorrows post a full (foot numbing) day at the Louvre!


Roadboy's Travels © 2015

(*Thanks to Scott for the Photos)

Monday, February 9, 2015

Euro 2015 Arriving in Madrid

Day's 1 & 2
The Royal Palace, Prado and the Museo ABC


This visit to Madrid was all too brief.  Arrived at 8:15 AM Sunday and immediately went to visit a little museum specializing in Illustration and Design Museo ABC. I knew it would be closed on Monday, so we put it in the hopper to do first. 

We found it on a little side street and spent an hour or so looking at its vintage collection of Blanc et Negro Magazine Covers and a lovely temporary display of Benjamin Thompson's colorful Madame Butterfly illustrations. It is just a lovely little 6 story museum that will be of interest to comic book artists and illustrators all crafted from the circa 1900 Mahou brewery. 

Museo ABC

Madame Butterfly 1
(Benjamin Thompson)

Madame Butterfly 2
(Benjamin Thompson)

Example of Turn-of-the Century Illustration

Example of Deco Era Illustration

Just loved the Character of this One


After a little walking it was time to return to the hotel and suffer night one of jet lag. Crashed at 8:00 PM awakened at 10:00 PM now wide awake....

Just stayed put and the finally re-awakened dead tired at 9:00 AM.

Had a wonderful breakfast, and looking around the restaurant realized it had to be fashion week in madrid. The whole dining room was full of 6' tall, size zero models. 

The day was filled with sun and a slight chill. A totally lovely day for walking around a beautiful city. We began with a visit to the Royal Palace. I was surprised how much the tour route has been changed since my last visit. The Crown room is now on display, complete with the June 18, 2014 King Juan Carlos abdication documents. 


Ceiling of the Grand Reception Stairway 
Palacio Real Madrid

Then it was off to the Mercado San Miguel for Tapas and a visit to the Prado (which was open till 8:00 PM!).

Finished a full day with a nice fresh mozzarella panini for dinner and it was time once again to face an evening rewiring my circadian rhythms.

Tomorrow we depart for Paris.    


Roadboy's Travels © 2015


Saturday, February 7, 2015

A Winter's Visit to Europe


Off to Favorite Places


As many of Roadboy follower's know I frequently enjoy traveling in the off season.  I'm more than happy to wear some wool, put on a hat and warm scarf if that is the price to see the Mona Lisa minus the shoves of summer. It is also a time of amazing bargains everywhere in Europe.

I am lucky to be accompanied by someone who will be experiencing Europe for the first time and that will make the trip even nicer!

First stop is Madrid. Why Madrid? Well, because it is one of Europe's most underrated capitals. Spain's largest city is a treasure trove of spectacular art, architecture and one of the most modern and efficient airports in the Europe.  From Madrid anywhere in Europe is close by and pretty inexpensive to fly to!  It is also a bargain to land in since it tacks on some of the lowest airport fees in Europe. With the current economic woes in Spain (Particularly in Madrid) the city offers pretty amazing hotel and restaurant bargains too. A city that seemingly never sleeps can be a perfect place to overcome jet lag too!

Off season in Madrid is mid-winter and August (when it is abandoned by Madridista's for being just too hot!) Of course, for us Phoenicians, the August temp in Madrid? Not so much!

Jet lag relieved we'll board an Air France flight to Paris. Total advance purchase airfare on Air France from Madrid to Paris? $78! 

Paris in winter can be very cold (mainly December and January), but it is warming up in February and starting to show glimmers of spring in March. During our 5 days in the City of Lights we are planning to hit the traditional Parisian highlights (without the crowds) plus a cold 1 mile walk through  its creepy catacombs.  A day trip to Versailles will be thrown in for good measure.

After a week in Paris we'll board a Eurostar from Paris Nord to St. Pancras station London. Advance purchase tickets on the sleek high speed rail ran $78. Sadly just three days in London, but we have tickets to three West End shows. While NY Broadway shows now run close to $200 a ticket, live theater in London is a screaming deal. 

We've also got sights set on London's wonderful museums (most are also still free!! Which may constitute the last two bargains in one of Europe's most expensive cities). The price of hotels in London have hit epic, but London's amazing public rail network makes some wonderful outlying hotels in West Ealing and East Croydon an option (frequently for $100 USD / night). 

The last leg of the visit will be a quick British Air flight to Barcelona's gleaming new airport (advance purchase $83 from Gatwick). Another nice benefit of staying in East Croydon is the ease of transferring to Gatwick.

Beginning and ending the trip in Spain allows for an easy sunny mid-winter introduction to Europe and a sunny departure back home.  Home to wonderful seafood, culture and the architecture of Antoni Gaudi Barcelona is close enough for a perfect day trip to Spain's first National Park Montserrat.

Stay tuned for photos. 


Roadboy's Travels © 2015

Sunday, January 25, 2015

Sold!

The 2015 Arizona Collector Car Auction Roundup

January in Phoenix is usually a magic time. The weather is comfortable and the skies are azure. The snowbirds are back so the roads have become even more hazardous. The golf courses are green and greens fees are approaching interstellar. And our citrus trees are full of oranges and grapefruit.

It is also the time when the big collector car auctions return and when locals pull the sunbrella covers off of their prized rolling stock and go cruising.

The car auctions also just seem to get bigger each year. The volume of exceptional cars filling the tents at the RM, Gooding, Barrett Jackson, Bonham and Russo and Steele auctions was amazing and the prices they fetched prove it.

This year set new records for high dollar car sales. This was another Ferrari year. Of the 42 vehicles selling for more than $1,000,000, sixteen were Ferrari's. Two Ferrari's flirted netted $9.6 and $9.4 M respectively. In fact, these top transactions alone accounted for $101,757,000 in sales

The top sales in order:

RM:
This year RM topped the list in sales of high dollar cars. In fact they sold over $40 M in million dollar plus cars. This year they sold a 64 Ferrari 250 LM by Scaglietti for $9.6 M blowing through last years record sale at $8.8 for a 56 Ferrari GT California LWB at $8.8 M. In fact, RM alone sold over $29 M just in Ferrari's. They rounded out their sales with a bunch of Mercedes Benz 300SL's and a couple of Porsches. All of RM's top sales were European.

Next Came

The Gooding Auction:
The Gooding Auction sold over $27 M in high dollar cars. Of those cars $17.7 M was just Ferrari. They sold a 59 250 GT California Spider for $7.7 M and a 62 400 Superamerica for $4 M. Of the 11 cars that Gooding's sold for over $1 M Only one was American (a 64 Shelby).

Followed by

The Barrett Jackson:
Barrett Jackson netted about $19.9 M in the million dollar club. Unlike RM and Goodings, The top dollar cars at the Barrett Jackson were American. They sold a 66 Shelby Cobra for $5.1 M and re-sold Harley Earl's 1950 GM Futureliner (Bus from the Pratte Collection) for $4,000,000.  Mr Pratte donated the proceeds from the Futureliner sale to charity). Pratte's 54 Sleek Bonneville concept car went for $3.3 M.

Then

Bonhams:
Bonham's had $13,1 in high dollar cars with their top car being a 66 Ferrari 275 GTB which sold for $9.4 M.

And finally

Russo and Steele:
Russo and Steele had only one car in the million dollar club. It was a 57 Mercedes Benz 300 SL Roadster that sold for $1.4 M.


A Day at the Barrett Jackson
For pure theater you can't beat the Barrett Jackson. The shear number of cars they sell coupled with its unsurpassed people watching opportunities make it my favorite. Being Scottsdale, the BJ is always  filled with the usual parade of scary plastic surgery augmented "Barbie meets Vampira" clones walking around in their surgically installed skinny pants. To the uninitiated Scottsdale is kind of where Stepford meets the desert.

Here are some of my snaps,,,


1954 Pontiac Bonneville Motorama Concept
Sold for $3,300,000



1949 Talbot Lago T26 Grand Sport by Franay
Sold for $1,650,000



1935 Duesenberg Dual Cowl Phaeton
Did Not Meet Reserve



I Love Hood Art
This One is A Packard



Here is One is From a 1932 Plymouth 2 Door Coupe



And This One is From a 1926 Franklin

1925 Rolls Royce Springfield Silver Ghost Riviera Town Car
Did Not Meet Reserve

1957 Ford Skyliner Retractable
Sold for $110,000

There were some new cars from Ford and Lincoln on display (which demonstrated how wonderful both lines are getting). And there was also the usual kitsch for sale.  If you ever need and old gas pump, slot machine, neon sign or autographed photo of Sylvester Stallone, you know where to come.

And, as always, despite Arizona's ban on smoking in public places, there is always the pervasive cigar smoke in the air (usually attached to fat guys with gold chains). The cigar smoke masks the smells from the stands selling every conceivable cardiac arrest food ever conceived.  

Gotta love it.

We finished up by watching a few "Thursday" cars go under the gavel. 

For Roadboy's photos from 2010, 2012, 2013 and 2014 (I didn't post for 2011) Click Here:


See you next year in Scottsdale!


Roadboy's Travels © 2015

Friday, January 9, 2015

Je Suis Charlie!



Francois-Marie Arouet - Voltaire

Gunfire employed to silence free expression anywhere, awakens its defenders everywhere. For now, we are all Parisians.


Roadboy's Travels © 2015



*Sculptor: John Antoine Houdon
Los Angeles County Museum of Art

Sunday, January 4, 2015

So Cal Holiday Theme Park Nightmares


The Hunger Games


Update
As a result of the serious (Criminal?) overcrowding at Disney we later came to find out that the days we were at the park coincided with a serious outbreak of measles.

And a few weeks after hosting conditions that enabled a health emergency to develop Disney responded by raising daily ticket prices.  I'm old enough to remember "E" tickets, so the current 1 day park hopper ticket price of $139 is breathtaking. I still love the place, but greed is greed.   

 
Southern California's theme parks are beautifully turned out from Thanksgiving to New Years. The decorations and holiday spirit are wonderful. In years past everyone used to comment about how uncrowded Disneyland was on Christmas Day. A couple of years back we spent Thanksgiving at California Adventure (the Thanksgiving dinner at The Vineyard restaurant was delicious). This year we decided to celebrate New Years at Universal Studios and Disneyland.

So did pretty much everyone else in Los Angeles. 

The reality is nowadays Disney sells so many Southern California resident annual passes and multi-day park-hopper tickets that any day surrounding a major holiday (where children are out of school) is guaranteed to be a complete nightmare. And, this year, Universal has most of the upper park closed while they add their new Harry Potter attractions, so it is excruciatingly crowded on holidays as well.

We knew we were in trouble a week or so earlier when reports surfaced of crowds so big at Disneyland on Christmas Day that they had to temporarily close entry portals for safety reasons.

Universal
We arrived at 10:00 am only to find parking garages that were already nearing capacity. Staff got behind shifting cones leaving cars trapped on already full floors. This forced platoons of cars to exit and re-enter garages starting the hunt all over.

At the park entrance the ticket lines were epic. We had a 90 minute wait at the "expedited" wireless ticket booths.

With tix we entered, met our friends and proceeded to the Studio Tour which was posting 85 minute waits.

Everywhere we found total pedestrian gridlock. We quickly realized our day at Universal was a total loss. IMHO Universal had created a potentially dangerous condition. If anything ever incites crowd panic, the rush to escape will result in serious injuries.

Since, our hard won tickets allow us to return throughout 2015, after one ride we left. We went on to have a great day (and big plate of La Korea's delicious Kalbi ribs) at the Farmer's Market.


Fun?! At Universal

Disney
On New Years Day when we arrived at the "Mickey and Friends" parking structure we were among the last guests to park on the roof. 

This is a 3.8 million square foot garage that efficiently parks 10,225 cars on six decks (each deck being 14.5 acres).  In other words each deck is the size of 14 NFL football fields. So, when you arrive, if you get parked on the roof, accept the fact that your day is gonna be screwed.

Once in the park we found cast members engaged in heroic crowd control measures using ropes and directional batons. Fast passes for the day gone before we entered and wait times for all major attraction ran at least 85 minutes.

Since we've been to Disneyland dozens times over the years we enjoy just being there (even if we don't actually get on any rides). So we shopped, watched the holiday parades and enjoyed dinner at California Adventure's Carthay Circle restaurant (using reservations we made weeks in advance). The dinner included priority viewing for the amazing World of Color water show.

Waiting for the World Of Color

If I ever even suggest a visit to a Southern California theme park on any day other than mid-week in the off season....

Just shoot me!


Roadway's Travels © 2015