Day Tripping & The Giants Causeway

Day 5

Part Two: The Giants Causeway and Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge

After departing Belfast we traveled through the village of Bushmills (home to the worlds oldest whiskey distillery) on our way to the Giants Causeway.

Along the way we made a quick vista / photo stop to view the ruins of Dunluce Castle. The ruins (like seemingly everything old in Europe) has been a filming venue for the Game of Thrones.

 Dunluce Castle

From there we continued on to the Causeway. 

The Giants Causeway was designated a Unesco World Heritage site in 1986. Formed million of years ago during a volcanic event, this natural wonder is a field of interlocking 4, 5 and 6 sided columnar basalt formations that extend from hte cliffs into the sea. Lore has it that the columns are the remnants of a "causeway" created by an Irish giant to use to go fight a giant in Scotland.

The Causeway Basalt Pillars 

Descend From the Cliffs

Detail of the Intricate Causeway Formations 

The Causeway Meets the Sea

Truly a one of a kind place on this planet. 

Our tour now proceeded to the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. This is a special place. Originally a 60' single hand rope bridge that fishermen used to traverse to Carrick-a-Rede Island where up to 82 fishermen installed and maintained their salmon nets until they discontinued fishing here in 2002.

Rope bridges are believed to have been used here for 350 years. When used for fishing the bridge was remived between fishing seasons. The current bridge was installed in 2008. 

On a sunny day (like ours) this was a very picturesque and fun stop. Not sure I'd be as enthralled on a windy and rainy day. In fact the bridge is closed when winds get too gusty.

A Panorama: The Cliffs of Carrick-a-Rede

Wildflowers at the Cliffs

The Bridge From Carrick-a-Rede Island

The Bridge Viewed From the Mainland

The Walk to The Bridge

A very long day we arrived back into Dublin about 8:30 PM.


Roadboy's Travels © 2017

Day Tripping: Belfast & The Giants Causeway

Day 5

Part One: Belfast and "The Trouble"

On a previous trip to Ireland my daughter and I focused on the southern, western and middle of the island. 

This visit I scheduled a day trip to the two major northern destinations; Belfast and the amazing basalt coastline formations known as The Giants Causeway.

In our first stop the City of Belfast I hoped to gain insight about what the Irish refer to as "The Troubles".

The story is told via local cabbies who conduct "Black Cab Tours" to key sites in the civil war. Hearing the story from locals who have lived it is emotional and heartbreaking.

The title: The Troubles is an epic example of Irish understatement. Anyone living during the 60's-80's remeber nightly developments in Northern Ireland's tragic civil war.

In fact on my first trip to Europe, just after graduating high school, I experienced its consequences. The day after our student group toured the Tower of London it was bombed by the IRA.

Just a few years ago on a return trip to the Tower I inquired about the bombing and was directed to a very discrete bronze plaque denoting where that bomb had been placed. There is no other evidence of the event.

The history of Ireland is a litany of theft and abuse from the Normans to Cromwell.

Modern history centers around the Irish War of Indepndence from 1919 to 1921. The conflict ended in a 1921 truce partitioning the nation. The British would retain rule over 26 counties and a provisional government was formed. In 1922 all but 6 counties in Northern Ireland became an independent republic. The 6 counties remained under British control.

Within the 6 counties there is a deep divide between the Unionists / Loyalists that tend to be Protestant and consider themselves British and the Nationalists / Republicans that tend to be Catholic and desire to see all of Ireland united. 

To this day neighborhoods in Belfast are precisely divided between Republican and Unionist. Massive walls divide the neighborhoods and steel gates must be closed every evening to keep residents separated.

King William Mural in a Unionist/Protestant Neighborhood

 Tribute to a Unionist Sniper 

The "heroic" martyr portrayed in this mural began life as a skinhead. He went on to drug dealing, money laundering and the sniper killing at least 12. His kills were frequently random, innocent, Catholics. His attacks featured the killing of a man called to deliver a pizza, using an uzi in a crowded pub and the maiming of an 8 year old boy. 

After killing shop worker Philomena he was reported to be heard singing "Follow the Yellow Brick Road" as he drove off. 

He died from a lethal dose of painkillers and cocaine. The fact that his life is celebrated offers proof of the ongoing animus.

The Steel Gates and The Wall

Republican Anti-Royal Ulster Constabulary Mural

Republican Martyrs Mural

During the height of The Trouble the British under Thatcher responded by sending thousands of troops rather than attempt any sort of diplomacy. Spotters took their place on top of one of Belfast's tallest buildings and the hit and run war of tit for tat terrorism and violence jst escalated.

Perhaps the most notorious event took place on January 30, 1972. Known as Bloody Sunday, this is the date British Soldiers shot and killed 13 unarmed male civilians marching for the Northern Ireland Civil Rights Association. 

This was followed by an internment program where over a thousand Catholics were rounded up, interrogated (and generally abused) by almost exclusively Protestant guards; all without trial.

An uneasy ceasefire was negotiated in part when Bill Clinton sent George Mitchel as a Special Envoy to Northern Ireland to establish a schedule for ceasefire and disarmament. 

Yet, Belfast today remains a deeply troubled place. Annual parades and bonfires continue to remind everyone of ongoing animosity. The Black Cabs take tourists to view the physical elements associated with the dispute; murals, massive walls and the steel gates that still close each night to divide Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods. They take you to view the prominent martyr memorials celebrating the urban terrorists of both sides. What can't be readily shown is the generational human toll that has surrendered to hatred and war.

All these years later while the rest of Ireland thrives, Belfast remains a sad, hateful, deeply divided  place with high unemployment.

It's two major tourist draws are based on disasters; the black cabs explaining The Troubles and a severely shaped museum dedicated to the HMS Titanic (which was built in Belfast, during its shipbuilding era).

 The Titanic Experience

Roadboys Travels © 2017

Ireland 2017

Days 3-4

"We are all in the gutter, but some of us are looking at the stars"
    Oscar Wilde

Day 3
After enjoying my own smooth flight over, the very next night, on the very same same flight, my traveling partner suffered a long delay.

We arrived to check into our AirBNB a bit later than we had originally contemplated, but it all worked out fine.

Barbara's Red Brick Cottage

The AirBNB check in was smooth. We dropped our bags and were off to do some preliminary sightseeing via one of Dublin's the hop on / hop off bus services. First stop was Temple Bar for a pub lunch with a pint of Guinness. The food was great and we had some live music to go with it. 

From there it was a trip to the grocery store to top off the Cottage's larder (which Barbara left generously stocked).

Living Room at Our Cottage

Nice Full Kitchen

So far Siri's solid "everyday rain" forecast has been gloriously wrong. There have been lots of sun breaks each day.

Day 4

This morning I had booked a Sandeman's "Free" walking tour. While these types of tours are free, it is customery to tip are at the end of the tour based on the quality of your guide).

Our guide Conor was excellent bringing his beloved city to life with stops at Dublin Castle, Christchurch Cathedral, Temple Bar and Trinity College.

The tours assemble at Dublin's historic Old City Hall.
 

Old City Hall Rotunda

 Winged Figure

(Anne Madden 2006)

Jusr before we the tour began I peaked into the City Hall's beautiful lobby rotunda. In it I was taken by a large painting (see above photo of the rotunda for context). It was painted during a time when she was troubled by political and environmental events. There are winged figures in front of what some interpret as the seven horses of the apocalypse.

 

 Our Walking Tour Guide Conor

Conor's animated 3-hour tour covered ancient and modern Dublin.

 

Dublin Castle

(This Tower dates back to 1288)

Bad Bob's Pub Temple Bar

After the tour ended near Trinity college, we had planned to see the famous Trinity Library. Sadly, it was closed for a special event.

So we turned and strolled up Dublin's high fashion Grafton Street shopping district toward St. Stephens Green.

We found a pub called the Hairy Lemon where we found the best vegetable soup in the world. Sort of a puree of cooked carrots, turnips, onions and potatoes with some butter and 1/2 and 1/2. I'll be attempting to make some of this when I return home.

 Street Art Near Grafton Street

After lunch we were good walking past temptation after temptation (bakery, gelato shops etc.) on our way to St. Stephen's Green.

 
Hard to Pass Up 
Rolling Donuts in Dublin

We really enjoyed St. Stephen's Green and Merrion Square home to Dublin's tribute to Oscar Wilde (Oscar is reclining on a huge boulder). Wilde's statue is about a block from his childhood residence and his alma mater; Trinity College.

Our tour guide had carefully explained the voluntary (and brutal) Trinity Foundation Scholars examination that first year students may participate in.

Since 1593 students able to passing the test become "Trinity Schol's". This distinction earns them meals, rooms, a stipend and pretty much a free ride for the balance of their academic career at Trinity. Schol's may even bring and graze their sheep on Trinity's pristine lawns.

Although Trinity schols have gone on to excel in literature, religion, politics, math and law only one has earned a perfect 100% score; Oscar Wilde.

 Oscar Wilde Peers Down at Passer's by at Merrion Square

 

From here we shopped a bit and then rejoined the hop on / hop off buses to complete a tour of Dublin. The city streets are really torn up for a major expansion of Dublin's trolley rail system. So watching these huge buses slink through construction, dodge pedestrians and intense traffic with such surgical precision was amazing.

Dublin is defined by the River Liffey that runs from the port into the city. Along the river are a series of very iconic bridges such as the Ha' Penney footbridge.

 The Ha'Penney Bridge 
Over the River Liffey

Some very full days!


Roadboy's travels © 2017
 

Traveling to Dublin!

Days 1-2

When I travel great distances I allow an extra day whenever I can. The day I arrive, I simply check into a hotel and just start to get my circadian rhythms reset.  I watch a movie, eat time appropriate and force myself to go to bed as close to local time as I can. 

My journey over was pretty nice. I cashed in lots of points for business class.

Shortly after take off the pilot pointed out a night view of Manhattan that was pretty amazing,

My flight time included setting up my sleep pod, watching a movie, enjoying a gin and tonic with dinner (panko / quinoa shrimp) and drifting off to sleep. Everything was on time. 

Was Easy to Spot Midtown Skyscrapers & Central Park 

(Central Park is in the Center of the Photo)

When I woke for breakfast we were just crossing over the last remnants of the Atlantic and drifting above slowly rotating giant windmills and the lush green of Ireland.

Leaving the airport on the hotel shuttle we had to share the road with a harness racer trotting at a pretty good clip.

Welcome to Ireland!

TheView From the Airport Hotel Shuttle Bus

I spent the balance of the day relaxing at the very nice Dublin Airport Hilton.

Tomorrow morning I will return to the airport, collect my traveling companion and check in at our AirBNB.

Roadboy's Travels © 2017  

A Return to Ireland & London

A Pint of Guinness?

 Off to The Emerald Isles!

Monday Roadboy embarks on a two week return visit to Ireland and London. I'll enjoy the company  of a friend experiencing each locale for the first time.

Home base in Ireland will be Barbara's red brick cottage in Dublin (offered on AirBNB).

We have day trips planned as well. The first to Northern Ireland / Belfast (including the Giants Causeway). The second will be the Cliffs of Moher and Galway.

Killarney National Park 

(Photo from my last visit)

Week two will be spent in London.

Again accommodations will be a 2 bedroom 2 Bath flat near the Victoria and Albert museum found on AirBNB.

In London we have 3-4 west end pays. a much aniticpated visit to the annual Royal Chelsea Hospital Garden Show, a full day trip to the Warner Brothers Studio (the Harry Potter exhibit) and (of course) the usual London tourist sights. 

Slainte Mhaith!

Roadboy's Travels © 2017
 

Paving The Way For Increased Air Rage

American's New Third Word Class Service


Rant Alert!

In the past few weeks we've been deluged with images of harsh airline treatment directed at paying passengers. 

United sent in officers to "re-accommodate" a passenger (leaving him unconscious and minus teeth). Then there was the removal of the couple on their way to their wedding. On April 23 Delta threatened jail time when kicking off a family with 2 small children (each with a paid ticket) for not surrendering one of their children's seats on an overbooked flight from Maui. And finally an American flight attendant was videotaped assaulting a women.

Neat!

Southwest, whose staff routinely deals with awful passenger behavior with real diplomacy, somehow never has such incidents. The day after United's Dr. Dao debacle Southwest placed the now famous "we beat our competition, not our customers" ad. Pure marketing moxie.

So congress (purposely lower case), eager to distract from its rush to strip Americans of essential health care, held a public shaming of United's (pretty decent CEO) Oscar Muñoz. Yep, one ill-informed and awful tweet by Oscar landed him in front of congress. But Oscar knows congress has zero intention of actually fixing anything; its just another Roman spectacle.

So, while airlines enjoy record profits, and air rage escalates, American Airlines has cynically begun removing more legroom from coach. Seat spacing will match the planes operated by Spirit (truly America's worst airline). 

American's move is timed on the heels of Emirates announcement it will abandon its US expansion plans. Massive lobbying money spent by the big US carriers to bar Emirates (a truly great airline) from acquiring any US gates has paid off. 

More proof that US corporations find it easier / cheaper to use dark money to avoid competition, rather than improve a product.

Stay tuned for the unveiling of American's new "Third World" class.

And, as planes get more claustrophobic, we can expect customer rage to escalate.

Roadboy's Travels © 2017

San Francisco: Odds and Ends

Roadboy's San Francisco Weekend

Besides a visit to Muir Woods and the "Summer of Love" at the De Young there were some other aspects of my recent trip that I wanted to relay. 

The SF Muni

First off the Muni Pass. They still offer the scratch off unlimited daily use program for travelers. And it is still a bargain for those of us that would prefer not to drive (and spend hours time seeking out parking) in the City.

You can buy the pass at the MUNI ticket office at Halladie Plaza near Union Square. There are passes from 1-3 consecutive days. The pass is good on everything except BART. We bought a 1-day pass and although it might have been slightly cheaper to pay as we went, the convenience was worth it. We used it on MUNI streetcars, buses and cable cars all day long.  We went from Downtown to Golden Gate Park, to Ghiradelli Square, then from Fisherman's Wharf back to the hotel. A 1-day pass cost $21.

Beach Blanket Babylon

Second thing. Beach Blanket Babylon is still playing at Club Fugazzi and it is still wonderful. Go to the later shows. The crowds are spunkier (less of us folks with oxygen tanks). 

This time I opted for the el cheap-o rear balcony. And, it was the best seating yet. The seats are first come, so get there early. These seats are benches (instead of those tiny, too close together, bolted together, cheeks touching your neighbor, chairs everywhere else). Sight lines are great and there is a bathroom upstairs too. Best deal ever.

De Young Observation Tower

If you go to Golden Gate Park stop by the (Free) Observation Tower at the De Young.  Whether or not you pay to visit the museum itself the observation tower offers some unmatched 360° views.

Looking Northwest

 Looking Northeast

Irish Coffee's at the Buena Vista

I'm still a huge fan of the Buena Vista near Ghirardelli Square. It is where the Irish Coffee was invented and they still seem to make hundreds every day. And they are as wonderful as ever. We opted to have an early dinner there and compared to the other dining options in the area found the meal offerings to be reasonably priced and pretty darned good.      

Buena Vista Irish Coffee

Glasses Are Warmed 

Add Two Sugar Cubes

Pour in Steaming Hot Coffee

Follow with Irish Whiskey

Finish With Whipped Heavy Cream

Speaking of Ghirardelli Square.... 

While my favorite chocolate from the Bay Area is made by Guittard, it is clear that Ghirardelli is the chocolate most visitors associate with San Francisco. And when they go to Ghirardelli Square many want an ice cream sundae. So some good news, there are now 2 sundae restaurants at Ghirardelli Square. There is still the original one as you enter initially (frequently really crowded), and a newer one in the upper square itself and it has better views and (usually) shorter lines.

Street Art

Like any big city there is a lot of tagging. But as we walked through Chinatown and North Beach we came upon was some really beautiful wall murals.

2 Pac 

North Beach (Near City Lights Bookstore)

Chinatown Detail

Mel Waters

 Chinatown Context

"Drama" Relief

Lee Lawrie 1930-31

505 California Street
Replica Panels from Elevator Doors

Education Building Harrisburg PA

I'll finish with some of the photos from the Danny Lyon Exhibit at the de Young. Such powerful, evocative imagery. 

 Incarcerated Cotton Pickers

Ferguson Unit Texas 1968

The Eyes Tell Everything

Untitled Illinois 

1965

 Police Officers

Clarksdale Mississippi 1963

Migrant Farmworkers

Citrus Groves, Maricopa County AZ 1977

Ok that is it for odd and ends.

Roadboy's Travels © 2017