Tuesday, June 4, 2019

Roadboy's Scandinavia

Getting There - Smooth Sailing Mostly


For me half the fun of travel is the planning and building anticipation for the journey itself. Knowing the trip will enable meeting new people, tasting new foods and experiencing new culture is kind of cool.

Of course, there are the unexpected things too.

Well my journey today (yesterday) began with one of those. The easiest leg of my flights should have been my first flight from Phoenix to Denver (where I'd catch my British Airways flight to London).  

But, weather at Denver resulted in our American Airlines pilot having to circle Denver. And all that circling burned up too much fuel. So we had to land and refuel in Pueblo Colorado. Of course Pueblo doesn't serve commercial aviation so we had to sit on the runway to await the news that we could fly the remaining 20 minutes to Denver.

For once I was very glad I had a very long layover planned for this flight!

And, as soon we got to Denver and I boarded BA's 747 I quickly got comfy in my little pod in the "attic".  I appreciate the quiet business class pods in the upper level of BA's 747's. 

I have to say I still love flying on 747's. They are kind of magical to me. These 4-engine whales of the air were the first "jumbo" jets, beginning service when I was still in junior high school. 

Once in my pod I ate well, worked a bit and slept very well.

Life in the Bubble Top 

My 747 At Heathrow 
(my window was the one just above the "d" in "One World") 

Upon landing in Copenhagen it was a quick trip through passport control and on to a smooth as silk $8 commuter train ride from the airport to Copenhagen's lovely old Central Station (located right across the street from Tivoli).  That is what multi-modal transport is all about.  Old and new seamlessly working together.

Arriving at Copenhagen's Gorgeous Central Station 
(with its glorious exposed wood structure) 

After unpacking I decided to take a walk and immediately noticed that there were few cars in the central city but tons of bicycles. And (just like Amsterdam) the bikes have separate drive lanes.  

Just awesome. 

They also have these simple rails installed on public stairs that allow you to roll a bike or scooter effortlessly up and down. 

 Everyone Cycles Here
(note the thoughtful wheel rail installed on every public set of pedestrian stairs)

My walk allowed me to peek into "Tivoli" which I assumed would be overrun with visitors on a summer evening. But it wasn't crowded at all.

Tivoli Gardens 
(Operating since 1843, Walt Disney is said to have found inspiration from Tivoli) 

And just to the side of the Danish Architecture Center I came upon a shimmering new pedestrian bridge under construction. In a city that I found to be illuminated dimly, this bridge just sparkles. 

 
A Striking New Pedestrian Bridge Under Construction
(The "Lille Langebro" pedestrian bridge will open a year late - a section was damaged in Rotterdam)

Well I've stayed up as long as I can. It is officially the end of Day One and it is time for bed. Lets see if Roadboy can beat the jet lag gremlin in just one day!


Roadboy's Travels © 2019

Wednesday, May 22, 2019

Getting all set for Scandinavia!


A Visit To Copenhagen, Stockholm and Helsinki!

Months of planning for a cycling adventure in Scandinavia will soon be realized!  

I depart Monday June 3 for my flight to Copenhagen via Denver and London. 

I'll enter the European Union via London (for perhaps my last Pre-Brexit time?). Then I'll change planes for my final leg to Copenhagen.  

A zillion frequent flier points evaporated in order to put me seats in Business Class.  I'll fly to Europe via British Air and return home on American's new non-stop London to Phoenix service.
Bike gear, check
Woolite, check
Bike helmet, check
Activate travel insurance, check
Passport, check
Credit card notifications, check
Upgrade cell service, check

Roadboy is eager to meet the world's happiest people!


Roadboy's Travels © 2019

Sunday, May 5, 2019

Day Tripping from Phoenix

Sedona, Jerome and Prescott

I had one of my oldest friends visit Phoenix for a conference recently.  I was lucky that she was able to add an extra Sunday / Monday giving us some precious time to reminisce.

Sunday we visited Phoenix' truly wonderful Musical Instrument Museum.  Monday we took a day trip out of Phoenix.

Phoenix's central location is perfect for day trips in any direction. My favorites include Tucson with stops at St. Xavier Del Bac, the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum and (in summer) a drive to cool off on the top of Mt. Lemmon.

Another big favorite is a day trip to Bisbee / Karchner Caverns. 

This time we made a loop from Phoenix to the red rocks of Sedona. And, being a Monday, we avoided Sedona's ridiculous weekend traffic and the throngs of Phoenicians returning back from a weekend in Flagstaff.

Friends Since Junior High

After a year filled with lots of rain, our drive was through a desert verdant green with wildflowers exploding in spring color.

We first made a stop at Sedona's striking Chapel of the Holy Cross.  Funded by a local rancher Marguerite Brunswig Staude, who commissioned San Francisco's Anshen and Allen as the architect. It's site required a special use permit that was obtained with the help of Senator Barry Goldwater.  The chapel completed in 1956 at a cost of $300,000. The chapel won the American Institute of Architect's Award of Honor in 1957.

Chapel of The Holy Cross

From there we went for a casual lunch at Sedona's Wildfower Bakery (it has seating that affords a red-rock views).
 
Leaving Sedona we drove through Cottonwood and then up Cleopatra Hill for a visit to the once abandoned mining town of Jerome.

Fragments of Jerome's Past Cling to Cleopatra Hill

In Jerome there was time for window shopping and a visit to see the magical kaleidoscopes at Nellie Bly's art glass shop. If you don't love the little optical treasures found here, you lack a beating heart.

Nellie Bly's Kaleidoscopes

The Jerome Grand
(Home of The Asylum Restaurant)

From there my old green jag XJ-6 (happy to get out of the city) purred its way through the windy mountain roads over Mingus Mountain and on to Prescott (for a dinner stop at El Gato Azul).
 
After dinner it was an easy trip home.

A perfect day.


Roadboy's Travels © 2019

Saturday, April 13, 2019

A Return to Chicago and Oak Park

Roadboy's Long Weekend in the Windy City

A few months back a friend expressed a desire to make a first visit to Chicago.

Well, no one has to ask me twice when it comes to visiting the Windy City!

We scheduled a trip for the last weekend in March when prices for hotels and flights are a bargain and the number of tourists is light. While March still delivers chilly temps all the fine museums are open, restaurants are welcoming and locals are happily emerging from the grasp of another long winter.      

At O'Hare our first stop was a CTA ticket kiosk to buy $20 multi-day unlimited passes. The pass (called a "Ventra") enables unlimited transport - including the journey from the airport to downtown via the Blue Line.

Google transit identified a route with only a single bus transfer that delivered us within 1 block of our hotel; the venerable 1927 era Gold Coast icon Millennium Knickerbocker (just north of the Water Tower).

This hotel has a lot of history. Hotel lore has it that Al Capone's brother operated a casino and speakeasy on the 14th floor during prohibition. Later, in the 1970's, Hugh Hefner bought it renaming it the Playboy Towers.

Today the hotel has been updated, but still retains lots little of the cool original touches that remind you of its age and history. There are the tiny elevators, the copper mail chute, the horseshoe shaped martini bar in the lobby and its spectacular ballroom.

The Knickerbocker Ballroom

For our purposes, the Knickerbocker turned out to be a great choice. The rooms are getting a little dated, but they were clean and quiet. WiFi was free (if a little sluggish). But any negativity was more than offset by the terrific rate we snagged on a Travelzoo Top 20® deal.

After dropping off our luggage we were off to the bean at Millennium Park and the Art Institute of Chicago (open late on Thursdays!) The Art Institute is one of those museums that offers surprise and delight at every turn.

This trip I was able to capture a first glimpse of the newish Deering Family Arms and Armor collection (opened in 2017).

Deering Family Arms and Armor Gallery

I also revisited some of my old friends by Thomas Hart Benton, Charles Singer Sargent and Edward Hopper.

 
 The Cotton Pickers
Thomas Hart Benton 1945

Pan of Rohalion (Cast after 1894)

I particularly enjoyed examining the exemplary building fragments displayed in the main atrium space in the original wing.

Cornice Angel
 Title Guarantee Building 1898
Saint Louis, MO
 (Recovered from Demolition 1983)


Stylized Ornamental Building Sculptures

 
 Terra-cotta and Stone Interior Lantern 
Imperial Hotel Tokyo
Frank Lloyd Wright 1923
  (Recovered from Demolition 1968)
 
Friday, after a great breakfast at the Original Pancake House near our hotel (yum), we boarded the CTA with Oak Park as our destination. Here we could explore the design incubator space for Frank Lloyd Wright's earliest signature structures.

The visit to Oak Park was especially fun for me. In 1976 my mom and I spent a day here. My mom was born in Chicago and played in Wright's Avery Coonley Playhouse at the age of 6 or 7 when it was owned by the Kroehler (Furniture) family. Immediately after that trip I began my own architectural studies at the University of Idaho.

On this trip we began with a guided tour of Wright's 1906 masterwork Unity Temple. I'm very happy to report that Unity Temple actually looks much better today than it did when I visited it more than 40 years ago. The congregants still make full use their jewel box structure exactly as it was intended by Wright over 100 years ago.


Model of Unity Temple 
Oak Park Illinois 1906
Frank Lloyd Wright Architect

With a budget of $45,000, Wright (a neighbor and Unitarian himself) was commissioned to design the building. It was completed in 1908. Wright's design for Unity temple broke almost every rule for church design at the time and was deemed a masterwork almost immediately.

Sanctuary Unity Temple

The Double Balcony Sanctuary Design Seats 400
Unity Temple, Oak Park, Illinois

After our tour we walked just a few blocks, past no less than five examples of Wright's early residential Prairie Style architecture, en route to his original home and studio.

In 1889, when Wright was just 22, he borrowed $5000 ($153,000 in today's dollars) from his employer and mentor Louis Sullivan to build a small home for his future family.

This home afforded him the complete freedom to explore his design ideas. It became a work in progress, that he went on to expand, renovate and rework continuously for the next twenty years. In 1898 he added his studio, where for the next 11 years in collaboration with his architects and allied artists he developed America's Prairie School of architecture.

In 1909, after 20 years of marriage and six children, he abandoned his wife, family and studio departing for Germany with Mamah Borthwick Cheney (the wife of a client) to create portfolio's of his work for a German publisher.

Wright would never live or work in the Oak Park home and studio again.

 Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio

 "Speak No Evil Word of Any Creature"
Above the Fireplace

 Master Bedroom Mural

Children's Playroom Mural

Playroom Windowbox

Stork Sculpture at the Entrance to Wright's Oak Park Studio
Richard Bock 1898 

Mankind Rising From the Earth to Transcend Earthly Bonds
Richard Bock 1898

 Wright's Studio

Light Detail in Wright Office / Library 

 Business Office in the Wright Studio

In 1911 he returned to the US and attempted an unsuccessful reconciliation with Catherine. At that time he converted his former studio into a home for Catherine and his children, subdividing the original home into apartments to provide Catherine income.  Catherine went on to work in Women's suffrage and with the Jane Addams Hull House in Chicago. Catherine eventually granted Wright a divorce in 1922.

In 1913 Wright began work on a dazzling new home and studio he called Taliesin (shining brow) in Spring Green Wisconsin. Horrifically, one year later, while Taliesin was still under construction and Wright was away on a business trip, a mentally unstable servant killed Mamah, her children and carpenters attempting to rescue them.

With enough Wright under our belt for one trip. we devoted Saturday and Sunday in pilgrimages to the Hull House and Chicago's City History Museum.

Each day ended with wonderful dinners provided by Lou Malnati and Stephanie Izard (The Little Goat Diner). Needless to say, we ate well.

On Sunday we departed with a vow for a future visit in summertime.


Roadboy's Travels © 2019

Tuesday, April 2, 2019

100,000 Visitors

Thanks for Sharing The Road!

I just noticed the counter to my little blog has passed a new milestone - well over 100,000 visitors!

It made me kind of happy.

I just returned from a trip to Chicago and will be post "Roadboy's Weekend In The Windy City" soon.

Fine Chicago Street Art!
 

Bon Voyage from Roadboy and thanks for the memories!


Roadboy's Travels © 2019

Friday, February 22, 2019

Travel Anxiety

Five Easy Steps to Reduce Travel Stress

I travel a lot. I always have. So I completely understand the travel anxiety that naturally accompanies us whenever we venture outside of our comfort bubble.
 
Sometimes Life is all About Just Looking Out The Window
(Like This Recent View of Mt. Hood)

Nowadays when I travel my stress level is pretty low.  I'm just responsible for me. However in years past, when I was responsible for organizing family travel to new and unknown / unfamiliar places, my stress level was consistently in the red zone.

And things can (and did) go wrong. There was a passport left in a taxi in Spain and running short of cash in Tokyo (accompanied by the sudden realization that the Japanese have lost faith in US banks rendering American ATM cards worthless in most Japanese ATM's).

All that travel has resulted in a planning routine to minimize travel anxiety.

Tip 1
I plan out the basics but leave room for spontaneity
There are many types of travelers:
• The Overthinkers: They plan every second of their trips (I used to veer into this category).
• The Free Spirits: They can grab a backpack, passport and set off to explore without any flight plan.
• The Timid: They limit travel to pre-packaged tours and cruises.

As for me I travel with a framework that includes major accommodations and all major transportation legs. I concentrate time in desired locations and plan no more that about 50% of my sightseeing (i.e the "don't miss" sights) while allowing the remaining 50% of my time for unplanned / spontaneous exploration.

I think of travel like tapas, I try to take little tastes here and there, decide what I like and then go back for more of the things I liked.

Once I am settled in to a locale, I try to find a favorite little cafe or coffee shop where I can comfortably initiate chats with baristas, wait staff and locals. I'll begin conversations offering a genuine expression of fondness for the city I am visiting. I ask about local restaurants / cafes, getting around and sights they think a visitor should not miss. With very little encouragement residents love to share what is best about their home. Despite language barriers and pantomime, the experience can be pretty wonderful.

Right now I'm planning two 2019 trips. In early summer I'll visit Scandinavia for a cycling vacation. Later in the fall I'll visit Prague for a week and then fly to Marseilles / Provence for week of autumn cycling. In each case, my travel framework includes accommodation reservations (hotels and AirBNB's), a few activities and a lot of time for unplanned activities.

For tourist-centric destinations (London, Paris, New York, Barcelona or Rome) I select the essential "must do" experiences and then see they offer advance or "jump the line" tickets. Whether it is the Vatican Museums, the Segrada Famillia or the Louvre, advance purchase tickets frequently spell the difference between enjoying a national treasure or spending hours waiting in line in the sun. 

To keep track of the planned parts I use the Tripit App.  Tripit is easy to use and it comes in freakin handy.       

Tip 2 
I Pack Light
If I forget something it is usually ok. I just replace it at my destination (sometimes netting a souvenir in the process). I frequently stock up on some Nivea Men products that are not readily available in the US.

Need some help packing? Download the app PackPoint.

Remember: List all medical devices and prescriptions you need. Pack them well in advance. Also, remember "Medical Devices" are exempt from the one + one carry on rule. So when the gate agent points at your cpap machine and proclaims you have "too many items", just smile and say the magic words "thats a medical device". 

Tip 3 
I Travel Insured
For much of my life I traveled without any travel insurance. Then I fell in Dublin breaking my foot. After that I realized that good travel insurance is no longer a frill.

After a little homework I prucased a good annual policy. I focused on medivac, rental car and emergency medical benefits.  I made sure it offered a 24-hour access line.  My annual plan is from Allianz.

Tip 4 
I Respect My Hosts
Relaxed people travel with less stress.  When I encounter people who rant about bad travel experiences I find they are usually people that badmouth everything.

The standard will usually begin when they trot out that tired cliche about "rude" Parisians.

After 5 trips to Paris over the past forty years, I know that Parisians are some of the most accommodating and amazing people in the world.  On a recent visit one of the individuals in our party walked with a cane. On every Metro train we boarded, no matter how crowded, Parisians quickly stood to offer him a seat.

I found out a long time ago that doing a little homework delivers huge payoffs.  I know how to say "Hello", "Excuse Me" and "Thank You". I have a basic understanding of currency and local tipping customs. I see what plug adapter I'll need. I make sure my phone plan is sorted and enables me enough data to allow me to use maps. I make sure my credit cards do not charge foreign transaction fees. I buy some local currency from my bank at home before I go (mine offers it without service charges).

When I arrive I eat local food and try to immerse in everyday life. I buy local (I love exploring foreign supermarkets).

In Spain I buy Marcona almonds. In Singapore I seek out Hainanese Chicken. In Paris I search for the perfect baguette. And, in Italy, I love the morning ritual of standing at a counter for a steaming cappuccino. 

And finally....

Tip 5
I Try Not To Be a Dork!
I stay the heck away from countries led by certifiably batshit crazy people.

Now may not be a good time to visit places like Turkey, Cambodia, Venezuela, Brazil, Hungary, the Philippines and Russia.  

Wherever I go I try to fit in. I leave flag draped t-shirts at home. I go for easy care, practical and comfortable clothes.

I don't leave valuables (camera, phone, wallet) on a table while I eat in a cafe. I put my wallet somewhere other than my back pocket. I don't wear backpacks with zippers in the back. I use the safe in my hotel room.

If I'm approached by a swarm of kids in Barcelona I know they are setting me up to pickpocket me.  If teenagers with clipboards approach me to ask me (in English) to sign something, I know it is a scam and I keep moving. 

I always leave a copy of my passport with friends at home and I strongly recommend anyone that will be making periodic trips outside the US to apply for Global Access. If you are planning just a few trips download and use the free Mobile Passport app.

Remember, it is far better to be "of" the world, than to merely be an observer of it.


Roadboy's Travels © 2019

Friday, January 25, 2019

Sold! Barrett Jackson Scottsdale 2019

8 Miles Worth of Cars According to My I-Phone!


The Iconic 1959 Cadillac Tailfin
Sale Price: $93,500

Once a year I take a day of PTO and spend it in Snottsdale walking from tent to tent admiring the cars to be sold at the Barrett Jackson Collector Car Auction. 

An Arizona Sunset Shimmers Over the Outdoor Tents
 
For me, the allure of the annual collector car auctions is as much emotional as it is visual. Walking along is an evocative experience. Over here is my college roommate's '65 mustang. There is my friend JP's SuperBird.  

1970 Superbird
 Sale Price: $116,600

Later I see a T-bird like the one I bought in high school (and still have).  And an Airflow like my Uncle Vernon meticulously restored years ago.

Then I come to a Chevy Impala like the one my parents and I drove across the desert southwest when I was about 10 years old.

Just seeing that car, with its huge rear window arcing over the back seat, made me remember some long nighttime drives under star filled skies. The miles passed blissfully as we listened to AM radio stations with only three call letters that drifted in on skiff.

Lean Back, Look Up & Dream
Sale Price: $66,000

I'm not going to do my detailed statistical rundown on the high dollar cars this year.  As always, vintage Ferrarri's took most of the big bucks.  The highest sale was a 1963 Ferrari 250 GT SWB at $7,595,000 at the Gooding & Company Auction.

No this year I'm just going to present photos of some of the things that made me happy.

Spectacular Hood Art 

1959 Sunbeam Alpine Custom Roadster 
Sale Price: $41,800

 1949 Case Tractor
Sale Price: $33,000
(Judging from the floor below - the new owner better stock up on oil)

2020 Toyota Supra
First Of the New Supra's 
Engine Signed by Akio Toyota
Sale Price: $2,100,000  
(All Proceeds To Charity)
1960 Plymouth Fury
Love the Embossed Trunk!
 Sale Price: $58,300

1959 Lloyd Alexander Taxi
 Sale Price: $19,250

Dreamboat Defined
A 1958 Pontiac Bonneville
 Sale Price: $148,500

 1965 Cobra Recreation
All Polished Aluminum by Kirkham
 Sale Price: $104,500

 Classy Wheels for Everyone!

After a week $239 Million changed hands from the seven auctions in the Valley. 

This week there is runway apron parking space available once again at the Scottsdale's AirPark.

Till next year! Happy gavel drops to everyone from Arizona.


Roadboy's Travels © 2019