Tuesday, July 27, 2021

Roadboy Returns to the MFA

A Rainy Day Art Detour

When architects talk about certain art museums their eyes roll up in their heads as they mentally drift off to that special place where the world is the best it can be.

For me one of the best museums in the world is Madrid's Museo del Prado. Not only does it feature some of the worlds best art, it provides written explanations that feel like Sister Wendy is whispering in my ear.  

No explanations given youngsters, google Sister Wendy.

Once in awhile art just stops me in my tracks. An example in the Prado is a painting by Joaquin Sorolla (coincidentally a contemporary of John Singer Sargent) entitled "And They Still Say Fish is Expensive!" The power and composition of the piece drew me from across the room to its compelling visual portrayal of two old fishermen tending to an injured young man. Then as I read its description, fully understanding what I was seeing, my eyes began to fill with tears at the portrayal of the old men grieving over a young life needlessly cut short. 

Such is the power of a timeless masterwork. More than a century after Sorolla painted it, it still powerfully touches souls.

And They Still Say Fish is Expensive!
(Joaquin Sorolla 1894 - Photo: Museo Del Prado) 

In North America I experience those same "Prado" feelings when I explore places like The Smithsonian's Portrait Gallery, Chicago's Art Institute, the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), the Getty, Philadelphia's Art Museum and Boston's magnificent Museum of Fine Art (known affectionately by locals simply as the "MFA").

My original intent for the second day in Boston was to visit the Isabella Stewart Gardener Museum, but that was not to be. Upon arrival we got waived off as the museum was sold out (note to self next time - get tickets in advance online!). You have to love a City where an art museum sells out!

Luckily, Boston's MFA is a short walk away and there we were welcome to buy tickets and enter. This was a second visit to the MFA for me and between the two visits I've yet to scratch the surface of the MFA.


Arrival the MFA

Much like the visit to the BPL yesterday, the MFA building presents every visitor from pauper to king with a majestic entrance leading to stairs crowned by an extraordinarily beautiful dome. 


On this visit my goal was to explore the MFA galleries that have been updated since my last visit and emphasize American art. Here are a few items that caught my eye during this visit.


The "Shelter in Place" Gallery

Stuck with no galleries available Boston Artist Eben Haines made this gallery available. He then issued  a call over social media soliciting artists to prepare exhibitions for it. The result was over 100 exhibits from artists around the globe. 

But....this is a little trickster. The gallery is actually a 1" = 1' scale model of a gallery and the artworks displayed inside are tiny. 

Think little Covid Thorne Miniature.


Views Into The MFA's Restorations Labs

A museum of this stature not only displays art it preserves it for future generations. This restoration lab was open to view the restoration of Asian antiquities. 

Head of Medusa
(Arnold Böcklin 1894)

Knowing that this mask of Medusa had stopped me on an earlier visit and did so again, I veered overto read about it. 
 
And, reading about it made me understand that the Medusa's stare is the point. Medusa's gaze upon men was said to hold the mythical power to turn them into stone. Sorta had that momentary affect on me. 
 
The story concludes that Perseus held up a his reflective shield to her and beheaded the snake haired monster.  

 Up in the Sky #1
(Tracey Moffatt 1997)

This image is not a painting. The artist says it is "making" a picture rather than "taking" a picture. The viewer is left to project the story of the image with an aboriginal baby held by a white woman as menacing nuns approach. A statement about Australia's forced separation policies and assimilationist policies.
 
With the recent news of mass graves at Indian schools in Canada and after living in Arizona and Alaska where native children were separated from families at age 12 to attend boarding (indoctrination) "schools", this one hit me full force. Every time I drive Phoenix' "Indian School Boulevard" this image will haunt me.

Ready to Breathe Life

I close with this sculpture. More than a sculpture, the young woman appears as it she could spring free of the bonds of stone and come to life at any time. I admit to being a huge fan of this type of work. An affection based on seeing Bernini's sculptures at the Villa Borghese. 

Anyway, this sculpture was just lovely.

 

Roadboy's Travels © 2021

Monday, July 19, 2021

BPL - One Magnificent Library

The BPL and its Singer Gallery

Boston is an easy city for an architect to fall in love with. It has seemingly everything: history, a waterfront, stunning architecture, world class medical, cultural and educational facilities all served up with a well integrated public transit system. 

Oh, and did I mention great food?

Team Roadboy arrived midweek on a post covid (i.e. oversold) American Airlines flight to spend a few days of "pre-trip" sightseeing before joining chums on an organized Vermont Bike Tours cycle adventure of Cape Cod and Martha's Vineyard (posts forthcoming).

Free (yes free) accommodations were provided at the Residence Inn Downtown / South (Roxbury) courtesy of a Marriott Bonvoy visa card. The property was new, immaculately clean, well equipped and close to Copley Square and the Museum of Fine Art (MFA).

The day began with a walk to Copley Square to admire Trinity Church (HH Richardson's Romanesque masterpiece). Sadly it is still closed. 

Directly across Copley Square stands McKim, Meade and White's 1895 wing of Boston's superb Public Library (referred locally as the BPL). This is America's first urban, municipally funded, free public library. It contains one of our nation's largest research libraries. 

It is a national treasure. 

The entrance to the building has a playful cornice with dolphins and seashells over the word's "Free To All". 

The BPL's front entry plaza is flanked by two large draped bronze sculptures; one representing science, the other art. In a nation now skeptical of science and derisive to art, I found the symbolism of having the entrance leading to knowledge guarded by science and art refreshing.

Science

The library's 1,500 pound bronze entrance doors present figures of music, poetry, knowledge, wisdom, truth and romance. 

Upon entry you are presented with a limestone staircase embedded with fossils. The staircase hall is clad in highly polished yellow Siena marble and presided over by two giant unpolished stone lions memorializing Massachusetts casualties in America's war to end enslavement. The tails of the lions shine from being touched by generations of library visitors for good luck. Murals in the stairway represent philosophy, astronomy, history, chemistry, physics and poetry.


Yellow Siena Marble Entry Staircase

 

  

The Civil War Memorial Lions 

 

Lions Left Unpolished at The Request of the Civil War Families

At the top of the staircase is the entry to Bates Hall. The hall was named for Joshua Bates the first major benefactor to the library. Mr. Bates imposed the conditions that the new library be "warm, light filled, seat at least 150 and be free to all". 

The magnificent English walnut bookcases and tables in Bates Hall are original to the room.

 

 Bates Hall

Although I came specifically to view the librarys John Singer Sargent murals, I soon found myself spending a full afternoon in rapt admiration of the entire building and its art.

 

 

Stairs to the Sargent Murals 

John Singer Sargent 

Sargent is one of my favorite painters. His life was astounding. He was an American born in Florence (where his parents waited out the cholera pandemic). 

His passion for art led to his acceptance in 1856 to Paris' Ecole des Beaux-Arts where he completed his formal art education. 

From the start his work met with broad critical acclaim at Paris Salons. He was applauded for exceptional technical skill and an uncanny ability to capture the nuanced personalities of his portraiture subjects. 

In 1884 Sargent spent an entire year painting an uncommissioned portrait of Madame Pierre Gautreau. He considered it a personal achievement and submitted it to the Paris Salon. The Salon, however, was shocked at Madame's scandalously dangling shoulder strap. Singer kept the portrait in his studio for his entire career. The painting, now referred to as Madame X, hangs in Manhattan's Metropolitan Museum of Art. The furor over Madame X resulted in Singer losing Parisian clients. So he decided to relocate to London. where his fame grew and kept him wealthy. 

Over his life his personal wealth, wanderlust and his multi-lingual skills allowed him to travel and live throughout the world. As part of his travels he formed a bond with Boston through close contacts with many of its most influential citizens including Isabella Stewart Gardner. Boston rewarded Singer with important commissions including the murals for the BPL which he began in 1895.

His work, always expressed a bright impressionistic realism I find joyous. But in the twenties it began to annoy avantgarde art critics whose interest now veered toward modernism / cubism. Singer's work and style was increasingly derided as "dated.

In 1907 he closed his studio and began to focus more on landscapes than portraits. From 1915 to 1917 Singer lived in the United States and painted portraits of John D. Rockefeller, Theodore Roosevelt and James Deering (while living at Deering's palatial Vizcaya estate on Miami's Biscayne Bay). 

Singer also kept producing his BPL work portraying the "progress of religion over paganism". It met with success until his frieze portraying Judaism (entitled Synagogue) was unveiled. Deemed objectionable by Boston's Jewish community it was defaced requiring Singer to repair it. Controversy faded after his announcement he'd abandon the final Sermon on the Mount pane.  

Now, late in his career, Singer again returned to England in 1918. As WWI raged he was commissioned to paint scenes from a world at war. The large chilling piece entitled "Gassed" is a result of that period.It was also the year he came to mourn the death of his niece who perished in a Good Friday shelling of a church.

Larger than life, Singer's personal life was always subject to speculation. Many art scholars assume, due to his relationship with Albert de Belleroche and sensitive portrayal of male nudes, that Singer was gay. And, despite the criticism of his work in the Boston Library, he was frequently derided as "The Painter of Jews" at a time when the world was growing dangerously anti-semitic.
 
At the time of Singers death in 1925 his life's portfolio was being widely characterized as the work of a "past master". 
 
Decades after death his stature found rehabilitation began and legions of new followers including Andy Warhol who commented that Sargent made "everyone look glamorous. Taller. Thinner." 

Various retrospectives of Singer's work were mounted at The Whitney, Boston's MFA and the National Galleries of Washington and London.

 

Sargent's "Triumph of Religion" Murals at the BPL

The Singer murals represent 29 years of work.  They were painted elsewhere and then attached to the BPL's plaster walls using lead and linseed oil in a process called marouflage. Here are samples of the Murals.

Prophet Hosea From the Frieze of the Prophets (West Wall)

Israel Oppressed Arched Panel (lunette - north wall)

Frieze of the Prophets and Moses and the Ten Commandments (north wall below the lunette)

Isreal and the Law (east wall)

 
Hell (west wall)
(Warhol joked Sargent had painted a gangbang with a monster

Synagogue (the controversial panel) 

Overall an uplifting rainy summer day in Boston for Roadboy.

Roadboy's Travels © 2021

Sunday, July 4, 2021

Off to The Cape / Martha's Vineyard

Gonna Go Cycling!

First off Happy Independence Day! 

After years of hella stupid politics, it is my hope on this 4th those leaning right, left and middle might finally come to appreciate what this amazing experiment we call America should mean to us all.

Now for the post! After (seemingly forever) Roadboy is ready to bust out of my Phoenician COVID bubble and return to regular travel.

I'm vaxxed, I've worked hard to remain healthy during the pandemic and I plan to cinch my N95 on tight for a (likely oversold) 4+ hour flight Wednesday from Phoenix to Boston. 

Once there I've set aside three days to go explore Boston before heading off to begin cycling on Cape Cod. In Boston I hope to retrace Paul Revere's ride, visit HH Richardson's Trinity Church, view the John Singer Sargent paintings in Boston's Public Library and spend some time in some of Boston's amazing art museums.

I have high expectations for this cycling adventure. It will be my first trip to Martha's Vineyard and Cape Cod. And, every time I mention my destination, friends glaze over and tell me how much they loved "their trips to the Cape!"

As with all of my biking tours, this one is organized by VBT (Vermont Bike Tours). VBT spoils me. They arrange ground transport, hotels and provide guides and bikes. I just show up prepared to pedal. We'll spend three days touring around Chatham and three days touring around Martha's Vineyard. Cyclng options each day offer routes to cycle between 7 and 60 miles.

So Roadboy's next posts will be from Boston.

Some Housekeeping: 
Blogger is ending its subscription notification service (that tells you whenever I post something new). I'm searching for a workaround for those that would still like notification.


Roadboy's Travels © 2021

Saturday, June 5, 2021

Roadboy's Souvenir Strategy

 Sou•ve•nir

"a thing that is kept as a reminder of a person, place or event"

While making our individual journeys through life we acquire and surround ourselves with special artifacts. Little fragments that trigger bursts of sentimentality and often bring a smile. 

A New York Theater Playbill is only folded paper until it is autographed. A cocktail napkin or book of matches from a cocktail lounge or special dinner on a date won't tip off anything to anyone but you.

Everyone decides what is important to them.

I believe carefully chosen souvenirs are wonderful. My mom patiently acquired a charm from each of the special places she visited; a spinning windmill and sterling silver wooden clogs from the Netherlands, a tiny Eiffel Tower and a little poodle from Paris. All eventually added to a bracelet of treasured memories. 

The main thing is to avoid obsession. Turning travel into a scavenger hunt is a sin.

My own concept of a good souvenir runs a bit eclectic. 

To me a great souvenir touches the senses. Food favorites include a bottle of amazing cherry syrup from Croatia, a jar of apple calvados jelly from Androuet in Paris (with cheese on a water cracker - yum!), a jar of creamy smooth cajeta caramel from Mexico or Pandan kaya (coconut jam) for toast from Singapore.

 

Sweet Croation Cherry Syrup

For smells I love the piñon incense from Santa Fe and soap and shampoo's from great hotels (one hotel in Sweden won me over with its Rituals toiletries). I'll never forget the fragrance of the lovely citrus shampoo they used to offer at the Treasure Island in Las Vegas (a city Roadboy otherwise despises).

I really appreciate souvenirs that are useful everyday things; articles of clothing or a unique kitchen tool. 

Why pack an umbrella for a trip to London when you can buy a treasure like a Fulton when you get there? I love a blue pleated wool scarf I found on a bitterly cold winter day in Paris and the splendid leather manbag I bought from a fragrant leather shop in Pienza. 

And, then there are everyday lime green glasses from Ottica Carraro in Venice. Some items (like my glasses) are souvenirs that go on become personal trademarks. 

Fine Venetian Eyewear By Carraro

On a steamy trip to Japan in June we admired the blooming Hydrangeas and I found a handcrafted fan from a little studio in Kyoto. The fan was useful on the trip and now awaits mounting in a shadow box at home.

  

Japanese Fans 

I'm not sure why I have a fixation with handmade marionettes, but I do. So when Frank and Frida were available at Wright's masterwork Fallingwater at Bear Run, Pennsylvania, well they came home with me. Later, they were joined by a "rocket" vase from Wright's Taliesin studio in Spring Green, Wisconsin.    

Frida and Frank

And then there was the downright goofy three-headed dragon I found in a spectacular Czech Marionettes gallery in Prague.

   

Makes Me Smile Every Day

Happily, I've inherited a few souvenirs too. Much loved are the 1942 era golden bear bookends from Yosemite (where my dad saved up enough WWII gas ration coupons to go propose to my mom who was working summers as a maid at the Ahwahnee).

 
Love From Yosemite

After living in Alaska I developed deep affection for alabaster carvings, scrimshaw, the enamel pins of William Speer in Juneau and Ray Troll's quirky art from Ketchikan.  

"D" is for Dogfish by Ray Troll


 An Enamel Porter By William Speer

Speer is one of those "only in Alaska" stories. A lawyer from Nebraska who came to Alaska and "gave up the practice of law when it changed from being helpful in making people useful and productive into an insidious cancer eating our society alive"

True that.

And, of course, there are souvenir's for souvenir's sake. My daughter presented me with a poster from my favorite Disneyland attraction; the original 1963 vintage Disneyland Enchanted Tiki Room (Disney's first audio-animatronic attraction). The computer room for the original version was nothing short of a marvel.

The Place for Dole Whip!

Well there's a sample of what I like, what are your favorite souvenirs? 

 

Roadboy's Travels © 2021

Sunday, May 23, 2021

The World Puts out the Welcome Mat!

Around the globe in every place where vaccination rates climb, Covid infection rates fall. 

This has unleashed a level of optimism and exuberance that is both exciting and maybe a little terrifying. I see Americans, desperate to amp up their lives, now hell bent on catching up for a year's worth of lost travel and life in general. I believe travel will see a rubber band effect. In my own household we are booking future travel with vigor. 

Much of the optimism has arrived with every tangible sign of nations reopening. So far they include France, Greece, Italy, Croatia, Bulgaria and much of the Carribean.

This week I received this note in my e-mail from Spain.


As Spain is one of my favorite places to explore, this note felt especially good. And, I wasted no time booking my flights for a trip this fall to explore Northern Spain on two wheels.

So to those who refuse to vaccinate for the common good, I say that is your right, go enjoy the wonderful variety of food, culture and experiences to be found within the borders of our nation.

But, as for me, I look forward to climbing out of the Covid cocoon and enjoying the food, sights and culture found within and beyond the boundaries of the US. 


Roadboy's Travels © 2021


Friday, May 14, 2021

Someone Doesn't Like Roadboy

Google Locked Up My Blog Today

After posting for twelve years, and recording 115,000 page views, today my blog was reported to Google as a phishing site. For awhile it no longer displayed photos and my banner.

Thanks to those that filed "Inaccurate" reports to Google stating that Roadboy's Travel's was not a "Deceptive" site. 

As of 9:00 PM this evening Google reopened my site once again displayiing all the artwork, stories I've written and photos I've snapped all these years.

Thank you!

 

Roadboy's Travels © 2021

Monday, May 3, 2021

Vaxed & Ready to Go!

2021 and 2022

The travel year beckons and Roadboy is getting excited about emerging from my Covid induced cocoon!

Skies Over Phoenix Have Begun to Fill With Travelers Again

The good news is travel planning is pretty good now. Most hotels are offering free cancellations and airlines are being decent about waiving cancellation fees (but beware many airlines who said "Cancellation fees are gone forever!" are quietly reinstating them for basic economy). "Consumer protection" and "Airlines" never fit well in the same sentence. Airlines sell a product they don't have (ovebooking seats) and define "forever" as roughly 14 months. 

 So do I believe their claims for safety? Hell no, I'll continue to wear N 95's on board. In recent flights I've seen lots of nig nog fliers slip on masks just to get in the airport and then let them fall below their nose / chin once in the terminal. Jerks that travel tend to self-identify.

My last flight, and reports from others, confirm airlines are rapidly increasing fares and aggressively overbooking flights again. Also, many traditionally busy domestic destinations (Hawaii, Florida, Las Vegas, Myrtle Beach are already booked and starting to price gouge for summer 2021). Happily, locations that are filling up (aside from Hawaii) are the same places Roadboy normally avoids.

So tentatively here is my travel line up!

July: Boston and Cycling Cape Cod / Martha's Vineyard

This will be another Vermont Bike Tours (VBT) bike tour. VBT was forced to cancel both of my 2020 trips (California wine country and Northern Spain). So I'm back to support them in 2021. If you've never experienced a cycling or walking vacation check into VBT or its sister company "County Walkers".

August: Boston and Maine

I travel once a year with my friend Carolyn from Austin. This year we had set our sights set on a visit to Montreal, but as Canada remains closed planning travel seems problematic. As I visited Maine a few years back and loved Acadia National Park, I proposed a return as a practical option.

Between the two trips I'll get two bites of the apple in Boston this year. So I'll be checking out the stops I've yet to make. Maybe a Paul Revere walking tour and visits to museums I missed the first time are in order. Oh, and lots of lobstahh.  

September: New Orleans

I'll be making a return to the "Big Easy" for a national convention in September. Its been many years since I've been to New Orleans and I plan to visit its new museums and eat a beignet (or three).

October: Spain and The Netherlands

My second VBT trip in 2021 will be Northern Spain: San Sebastian, Pamplona and Bilbao. I'll bookend the cycling with a visit with friends from Northern Idaho to sightsee my beloved Madrid. They will head out for a month of travel and I will catch a flight on to Amsterdam where I plan to spend a day in the massively renovated Rijksmuseum. From Amsterdam I'll catch a train to Rotterdam to inventory its contemporary architecture. This will allow me to use hotel vouchers from the "Tulips" trip I had to cancel last May.    

January 2022: Iceland

In January my friend Beth and I will meet up for a mid winter trip to Iceland. Blue Lagoon thermal pools and (hopefully) some Northern Lights!!

Other trips in 2022 will hopefully include my first visit to Greece (amazing right?). I also plan to make a return to Croatia and maybe Montenegro and / or Slovenia.

Lots of photos and stories ahead in 2021!


Roadboy's Travels © 2021