Saturday, February 28, 2009

Spring in the Sonora


Time to Gloat

Sometime in the middle of June or July I will regret posting this, but today I just can't help it. My I-phone informs me that all next week it will rain every day in Seattle.  Monday in Washington DC the high will reach 32°.  Tomorrow in Chicago it will reach 26° with snow.

Today in Phoenix I washed my cars in shorts and the high was 83°. The seven day forecast calls for sunshine every day next week.

While summer may be everyone else's time.  February and March belong to Arizona. Our skies are clear, ego-free cactus league baseball is about to start, and everyday is a good day to ride single track on a mountain bike.


 Ocotillos are Green



The Hummingbirds are Back



The Heat of Summer Hints of its Return 


In the meantime, it is time to put the top down on the car, eat dinner outside, take the dogs on long walks, and bask in all the glories of winter in the magnificent Sonora desert. 

This year if you visit us here in Phoenix remember there is Chihuly at the Desert Botanical Garden and the new light rail now serves Sky Harbor Airport. Another big plus is there are a zillion new hotel rooms, so the inability to find a room during spring training will not be the case at least for this year.

Sometimes the best travel adventure is just staying home.  I'll come visit you in June or July!

Roadboys Travels © 2009


Friday, February 13, 2009

Siena

The Medievel City of Hills

In 30 AD the Romans established a military outpost in the hills of Tuscany. It became an important trading center and over the next 1500 years seemingly everyone took a whack at governing it. First the Lombards, then the Franks, eventually the Church.

In 1348 Siena endured a disastrous plague. It killed 70% of its 100,000 residents. Despite that Siena still managed to wage war with Florence to establish dominance in governance and regional trade. Siena lost the war, but now with governance settled, rebuilt itself and concentrated on art and culture. Since the black death, Siena's population has never again reached its pre-plague numbers allowing it to simply recycle its "overbuilt" medieval building stock for the past 600 years. This has made it one of the best preserved medieval gems of Tuscany.

The City is made up of seventeen uniquely identified neighborhood wards or groups called Contrade. Each Contrade is represented (and its perimeter defined) by a different animal based logo. Once a year each Contrade is represented by a horse in the fiercely competitive Palio.

Il Palio

Getting There
Siena is easily reached by train, car, or bus. Most of the historic walled core is off limits to all but residents by permit, cabs and kamikaze motorcyclists.

So if you arrive by train, you will need to catch a cab into the historic walled City core.

If you arrive by bus, you can get off near one of the gates to the historic zone. A word of caution (based on experience), without serious pre-planning you will now confront a steep uphill trudge through twisty streets. All the while your travelmates may be quietly cursing the fact that you can't seem to hail a cab and have no real idea where you are and/or where you are going.

If you arrive by car you will need to park in an expensive perimeter lot and take a cab into the historic core.

Siena Spans from Hilltop to Hilltop
(A View of the Church of San Domenico)


Getting Around
Hills define this walled city. It seems to cling to the top and sides of three ridges resulting in an interweaving of tiny twisting streets and alleys. One soon learns they all seem to lead to the main Piazza del Campo.

After unpacking go start exploring. You simply need a pair of comfortable shoes as this is a city best explored on foot.

Where to Stay
There are few chain hotels in the historic core! So do your homework and make reservations well in advance (6 months to a year). We stayed in the uppermost guest room in the Residencia d'Epoca Palazzo Fani Mignanelli. The innkeepers here offer just 11 rooms and ours was quiet and spotlessly clean. It is just steps from the Piazza del Campo.

Where to Eat
This is Tuscany! Eat anywhere! We found the best classical gelato in Italy in Siena (the best contemporary gelato is still Florence's GROM which Update 2011 has now expanded with shops in Siena!) We walked into a cafe with a Rick Steves logo that turned out to be solid "B+" and into a basement Osteria (called Guidoriccio) we found just off the lower end of the Piazza del Campo that served us the best meal we had on our entire last trip to Italy Update 2011: Guidoriccio is now top rated on TripAdvisor and is still wonderful. Just go exploring!

The Heart and the Soul of Siena
Siena has both a beating heart and a rich soul. The heart is the Pizza del Campo where its citizens come to mingle and play. Its soul is its beautiful Duomo.

The Piazza Del Campo is a beautiful shell shaped piazza that looks like an amphitheater. It serves as Siena's living room. The Piazza also plays host to its Palio horse races twice a year (July 2nd and August 16th). An engineering marvel. The amphitheater shape is actually designed to drain the surrounding hills of stormwater, which it does with amazing efficiency.

Siena's wild side is represented twice a year by the Palio horse race and daily by the locals zipping through town on motorcycles. The price of the motor driven recklessness is chillingly demonstrated by the number of riderless helmets enshrined in one of the side chapels of Siena's Duomo.

The Duomo is a marvel. It has been under continuous construction since before the plague. Its floors are the worlds oldest graphic novel (comic book) where characters and stories are illustrated in stone.

The Duomo, however, is not a typical dusty religious edifice. In Siena the Duomo is a vibrant and active community church. The architectural composition of the Duomo is based on meticulously maintained layers of green and white marble.

The library positively sparkles from its frescoed ceiling to its floors. More importantly, however, are its walls which are lined with huge illuminated manuscripts.



Detail From an Illuminated Manuscript




The Ceiling of the Duomo Library




The Dome Itself



A Harmonious Mix of Gothic and Romanesque Architecture

Looking Out From our Hotel Over the Rooftops of Siena




The Piazza del Campo
(Site of Il Palio)
The Tower is New - Built in 1848
Il Palio
Truly a horse race, Il Palio pits bareback jockeys each representing a specific Contrade in a wild 3 lap run around the Pizza del Campo.

To prepare for Il Palio, the Campo track is carefully covered with a layer of earth that is compacted by steam rollers and never allowed to dry. Assessing the race year in and year out, improvements are continuously made (such as the addition of mattresses built into its sharp corners for safety).

Thousands of spectators come and stand in and around the Campo and once the race begins pretty much anything goes. Jockeys are frequently pushed, nudged, and whipped by other riders. Jockey's on occasion don't make it to the finish line but the rules are always the same. The first horse across the finish line (whether it has a rider or not), wins Il Palio.

The winning Contrade then celebrates for days.



Contrade Boundaries are Represented by their Adopted Symbol
(Onda - Swimming Dolphin)



Montone (The Ram)



A Coiled Snake
(Not a Contrade - but beautifully executed bronze at the Piazza del Campo)

While the worlds tourists all flock to Venice, Florence, and Rome, I particularly love places like Siena. Places that keep their historic soul, take a bit of work to get to (and to get around in), and provide surprises at every twist and turn. Roadboy gives Siena two big thumbs up!

Roadboys Travels © 2009

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Sunny Days & Classy Cars


High Rollers and Beautiful Rolling Stock

Like swallows to capsitrano, every year the buyers fly in.  Some in net jets, some in first class, many in coach.  They strap on their credentials and head to one of the three or four antique and collector car auctions held each year in the Valley of the Sun.

Most years the weather is perfect and you'd better wear a hat whilst perusing the literally thousand plus cars arrayed in tents available for bidding. In off years you may need a sweater, rarely an umbrella.

The biggest of them all is the Barrett Jackson Auction in Scottsdale at Westworld. Westworld is the event center designed for Scottsdale's world famous annual Arabian Horse Show. In January Westworld is outfitted with one of the world's largest tent structures and the fun begins. Simultaneously in Phoenix metro the Russo & Steele and the R&M auctions are also in full swing. Each auction has a unique focus and for a couple of weeks each year the valley is awash in rolling history.

The cars are sold with no reserve, so the bidding gets furious, with superstars like Carroll Shelby frequently on hand to grease the wheels of the bidding process. In a good year some of the specialty offerings fetch $4 and $5 Million dollars. These are the concept cars, the VIN #1, a President's personal car, or sometimes just weird old muscle cars that the fifty somethings that populate the bidding floor couldn't afford when they were young and those cars were new.  

I'll never bid, I'm one of those guys that just comes every year to view the high budget bidding that takes place between 4 pm and 10 pm on Auction Saturday.

My routine is simple. I pay the $55 or so to get in and then make my way quickly through all the crap vendors. Here you can buy a timeshare, garish jewelry, or realllly bad art. Likewise, if you want a huge neon sign, Jim Morrison's autographed gold record, an antique jukebox, or a sofa crafted from a '57 Chevy, you will be in nirvana. Me, I take deep breath, put my head down, and run outside while it is light. Once outside I can start my walk up and down the series of tents where the "merely amazing" cars are stored. The incredible cars are stored inside the main tent. I save them for later.


Rolling Across the Auction Block 
Bids are posted in three currencies and internet bids come in from around the world



Whether it is a Pierce Arrow or a Rolls Royce Spirit of Freedom 


The tents have the cars parked 4-6 deep and by Saturday many in the tents have long been sold. But it is still fun to look and hear people reminisce, ogle or explain to kids what it meant to ride in a friend's Austin Healey thirty years ago.

The amazing thing is many of the cars are the very cars we grew up with. They are Uncle Ken's 1965 Impala Super Sport. They are the 1961 T-Bird I bought in high school (and still have).

About this time the smells of food are getting to me and I am getting hungry.  Not a problem as the cuisine covers everything from deep fried twinkies to California Pizza Kitchen. The Fairmont Princess even had a fine dining tent this year. 


The Pontiac "Club De Mer" Concept Car
Harley Earll's concept car (complete with a shark fin in back) was made of clay. 
This fellow built it for real four decades later



A Montage From the Tents



Nothing Defines American Automotive Class like a Cord


So after eating and making my way through all of the tents I head to ogle the indoor cars. These are the museum quality units. Each and every surface on these cars gleams. They look, for the most part, better than new. They are all behind ropes and not for the unwashed masses. For a moment everyone in the place imagines being behind the wheel of one of these truly amazing cars. Of course these are the cars that will rarely ever see asphalt. They will get pampered in a personal collection or a museum. 



Two Views of a Lincoln


At this point it is 5 pm and I am ready for the auction. There are race car drivers, rock and movie stars moving throughout the hall.  Reggie Jackson is on the floor advising his clients on the finer points of bidding and evaluating cars. It is like being in Las Vegas watching the people go by in the Bellagio.  If you are a bidder the dapper guards let you in the main floor or skyboxes.  The rest of us mortgage bound mortal's just stand and watch. 

I like being at the entry portal where the sellers are bringing their cars in and prepping them one last time. Once they hit the stage they will be pushed by glove clad auction staff to minimize the exhaust on the stage since most of the cars will last under the gavel for only two to three minutes.

And what an exciting two or three minutes they are!  All captured by the big boom cameras of the Speed Channel, television viewers will get to witness every wink or nod a bidder makes as they are cajoled by the auction staff or their entourage of half drunk buddies. Looking on and gently adding words of encouragement may be a heavily augmented trophy bimbette, (perhaps wife number three.) The bidders themselves? Well there seems to be two catagories: pros or 50 year old big boys with an earring wearing Tommy Bahama (that can never be tucked in). 

The whole delicate choreography makes it a lot of fun to watch and when a bidding war erupts for an exceptional car, the hall turns electric. 

Around 7 pm my legs get tired I make my way outside one last time and take a final look at the cars in the prep tent. 

This year I finished my day by watching Ford's amazing mustang stunt drivers prove that fine cars, in the hands of experts, can still make our heart's beat a little faster.     


Ford's Incredible Stunt Team


The car auctions immediately turn old farts like me into Peter Pan, with absolutely no intention of ever growing up. 

Roadboy's Travels © 2009


Wednesday, January 14, 2009

The Amish Market


A Find in the Lower West Side

I have a project in New York City and spent a couple of days there last week. While there are seemingly millions of cool little places to sit and nosh in Manhattan, I took a tip from my client and made my way to the Amish Market (I think there are four in and around NYC).

First off it is indeed a market and featured very fresh produce, a full selection of meats and a whole bunch of unique packaged foods.  But what I liked the most was its deli.  There was a superb hot and cold food bar selling everything from lamb curry, to hummus, to fresh berries. All sold by the pound. There was a wood fired oven (I had a very tasty stromboli), and a full service hot food line serving everything from steaks to seafood.  There was even a salad bar where they made up fresh salads to order.

I finished it off with a big bag of green apple Australian licorice for later. I'm addicted to the soft aussie stuff.    

I go back for a full week in NYC later this month.  Its been years since I've visited Manhattan and I have to admit that besides being wicked cold, it was absolutely lovely.  Expect some more updates.

Roadboys Travels © 2009

Thursday, January 1, 2009

Looking Back / Looking Forward


A New Year on the Road!

First off Happy New Years to you and yours!

Looking back over a year with wars raging, gas prices soaring, and the biggest economic adjustment since the Great Depression, there was never a dull moment on the road in 2008.

So maybe, it might just be a whole lot better to look forward to 2009.

In 2009 I plan to prepare features on City's with great public art. I will continue my quest to celebrate classic restaurants (while remaining on the look out to discover great new ones). I will post another Italy profile (Siena) and about mid-year I am planning a series on Japan (I will be returning to Japan after almost twenty five years). 

I will deliver praise wherever I find excellence and yeah I'll dish dirt when it is deserved.


I'll Celebrate Public Art 
(Like This Cool Cluster of Historic Streetlights in LA) 



Expect a Posting on Siena Italy



I'll Always Post When I Find Great Food!
Guess Where I Found This Gelato?

Thanks for joining me on life's journey!

Roadboys Travels © 2008  

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Slow Down


Its Starting to Look a Lot Like Christmas.......

Today I spent a full day admiring the architectural offerings from Chicago's amazing Merchandise Mart. This is the giant private shopping center facing the Chicago River where architects go to shop on behalf of their clients. After a full day spent admiring the elegant fabrics, amazing hardware, and beautiful furniture found on floor after floor, I emerged to see that downtown Chicago had been blanketed with a thick fresh coat of snow. This most energetic of cities was now reduced to a crawl.

Nature just worked its magic, gently refocusing me. 

Time to put work aside and be with those you love.  

Time to celebrate Christmas.   

Holiday Lights Over the Galena Street Bridge 
Aurora, Illinois 

Wishing you the best!

Roadboys Travels © 2008

Saturday, December 6, 2008

Come On Get Over It!


Count To 100

Somewhere once I read that Thomas Jefferson had advised that before replying in anger one should "always count to 10, and if very mad, count to 100".

Recently as I was taking my place in the stands for a show at Sea World I overheard a young women with two small kids two rows behind me being politely asked to scoot down in her row. She simply looked at the dark haired, bearded man with his two kids and said "no, I won't and why don't you just take those two kids and go back to your own country". It was kind of like going to a funeral and trying to ignore an open casket, you want to turn away, but feel compelled to turn and look.  When I looked I saw a middle eastern man whose face was morphing from frustration into anger. He simply took a kid in each hand and moved on.

The defiant blond woman who raged at him, just smiled at her kids and said "like I'm gonna move for him!"

As I turned away and I reflected on the heartbreaking lesson four kids had just learned, I was overcome by sadness.

When I travel I am constantly amazed at the little kindnesses shown me when I am obviously lost and befuddled. I worry about the message we as Americans convey to the world's visitors when they come here.

On a recent trip as I walked through O'Hare airport I turned to go down a side corridor to go to a restroom only to find a woman by the phones crying.  Her clothing made it clear she was an international traveler.  When I came back, she was still there. My first inclination would normally be to respect her private moment of sadness. After the events at Sea World, I thought about it, and decided instead to stop and ask her if she needed anything. She looked at me and I"m not sure she understood exactly what I was asking. But judging from the expression I got, she clearly understood what my heart was saying. She nodded a slow no and we sheepishly traded somewhat awkward smiles. It took less than a minute. 

The act seemed entirely appropriate as we enter a season celebrating the birth of the one who instructed us to simply "love one another". 

I believe we can overcome a lot just by being kinder to each other. The alternative is to become that very bitter woman who will eventually be sitting in a row all by herself at Sea World.

Roadboys Travels © 2008