Ireland 2017

Days 3-4

"We are all in the gutter, but some of us are looking at the stars"
    Oscar Wilde

Day 3
After enjoying my own smooth flight over, the very next night, on the very same same flight, my traveling partner suffered a long delay.

We arrived to check into our AirBNB a bit later than we had originally contemplated, but it all worked out fine.

Barbara's Red Brick Cottage

The AirBNB check in was smooth. We dropped our bags and were off to do some preliminary sightseeing via one of Dublin's the hop on / hop off bus services. First stop was Temple Bar for a pub lunch with a pint of Guinness. The food was great and we had some live music to go with it. 

From there it was a trip to the grocery store to top off the Cottage's larder (which Barbara left generously stocked).

Living Room at Our Cottage

Nice Full Kitchen

So far Siri's solid "everyday rain" forecast has been gloriously wrong. There have been lots of sun breaks each day.

Day 4

This morning I had booked a Sandeman's "Free" walking tour. While these types of tours are free, it is customery to tip are at the end of the tour based on the quality of your guide).

Our guide Conor was excellent bringing his beloved city to life with stops at Dublin Castle, Christchurch Cathedral, Temple Bar and Trinity College.

The tours assemble at Dublin's historic Old City Hall.
 

Old City Hall Rotunda

 Winged Figure

(Anne Madden 2006)

Jusr before we the tour began I peaked into the City Hall's beautiful lobby rotunda. In it I was taken by a large painting (see above photo of the rotunda for context). It was painted during a time when she was troubled by political and environmental events. There are winged figures in front of what some interpret as the seven horses of the apocalypse.

 

 Our Walking Tour Guide Conor

Conor's animated 3-hour tour covered ancient and modern Dublin.

 

Dublin Castle

(This Tower dates back to 1288)

Bad Bob's Pub Temple Bar

After the tour ended near Trinity college, we had planned to see the famous Trinity Library. Sadly, it was closed for a special event.

So we turned and strolled up Dublin's high fashion Grafton Street shopping district toward St. Stephens Green.

We found a pub called the Hairy Lemon where we found the best vegetable soup in the world. Sort of a puree of cooked carrots, turnips, onions and potatoes with some butter and 1/2 and 1/2. I'll be attempting to make some of this when I return home.

 Street Art Near Grafton Street

After lunch we were good walking past temptation after temptation (bakery, gelato shops etc.) on our way to St. Stephen's Green.

 
Hard to Pass Up 
Rolling Donuts in Dublin

We really enjoyed St. Stephen's Green and Merrion Square home to Dublin's tribute to Oscar Wilde (Oscar is reclining on a huge boulder). Wilde's statue is about a block from his childhood residence and his alma mater; Trinity College.

Our tour guide had carefully explained the voluntary (and brutal) Trinity Foundation Scholars examination that first year students may participate in.

Since 1593 students able to passing the test become "Trinity Schol's". This distinction earns them meals, rooms, a stipend and pretty much a free ride for the balance of their academic career at Trinity. Schol's may even bring and graze their sheep on Trinity's pristine lawns.

Although Trinity schols have gone on to excel in literature, religion, politics, math and law only one has earned a perfect 100% score; Oscar Wilde.

 Oscar Wilde Peers Down at Passer's by at Merrion Square

 

From here we shopped a bit and then rejoined the hop on / hop off buses to complete a tour of Dublin. The city streets are really torn up for a major expansion of Dublin's trolley rail system. So watching these huge buses slink through construction, dodge pedestrians and intense traffic with such surgical precision was amazing.

Dublin is defined by the River Liffey that runs from the port into the city. Along the river are a series of very iconic bridges such as the Ha' Penney footbridge.

 The Ha'Penney Bridge 
Over the River Liffey

Some very full days!


Roadboy's travels © 2017
 

Traveling to Dublin!

Days 1-2

When I travel great distances I allow an extra day whenever I can. The day I arrive, I simply check into a hotel and just start to get my circadian rhythms reset.  I watch a movie, eat time appropriate and force myself to go to bed as close to local time as I can. 

My journey over was pretty nice. I cashed in lots of points for business class.

Shortly after take off the pilot pointed out a night view of Manhattan that was pretty amazing,

My flight time included setting up my sleep pod, watching a movie, enjoying a gin and tonic with dinner (panko / quinoa shrimp) and drifting off to sleep. Everything was on time. 

Was Easy to Spot Midtown Skyscrapers & Central Park 

(Central Park is in the Center of the Photo)

When I woke for breakfast we were just crossing over the last remnants of the Atlantic and drifting above slowly rotating giant windmills and the lush green of Ireland.

Leaving the airport on the hotel shuttle we had to share the road with a harness racer trotting at a pretty good clip.

Welcome to Ireland!

TheView From the Airport Hotel Shuttle Bus

I spent the balance of the day relaxing at the very nice Dublin Airport Hilton.

Tomorrow morning I will return to the airport, collect my traveling companion and check in at our AirBNB.

Roadboy's Travels © 2017  

A Return to Ireland & London

A Pint of Guinness?

 Off to The Emerald Isles!

Monday Roadboy embarks on a two week return visit to Ireland and London. I'll enjoy the company  of a friend experiencing each locale for the first time.

Home base in Ireland will be Barbara's red brick cottage in Dublin (offered on AirBNB).

We have day trips planned as well. The first to Northern Ireland / Belfast (including the Giants Causeway). The second will be the Cliffs of Moher and Galway.

Killarney National Park 

(Photo from my last visit)

Week two will be spent in London.

Again accommodations will be a 2 bedroom 2 Bath flat near the Victoria and Albert museum found on AirBNB.

In London we have 3-4 west end pays. a much aniticpated visit to the annual Royal Chelsea Hospital Garden Show, a full day trip to the Warner Brothers Studio (the Harry Potter exhibit) and (of course) the usual London tourist sights. 

Slainte Mhaith!

Roadboy's Travels © 2017
 

Paving The Way For Increased Air Rage

American's New Third Word Class Service


Rant Alert!

In the past few weeks we've been deluged with images of harsh airline treatment directed at paying passengers. 

United sent in officers to "re-accommodate" a passenger (leaving him unconscious and minus teeth). Then there was the removal of the couple on their way to their wedding. On April 23 Delta threatened jail time when kicking off a family with 2 small children (each with a paid ticket) for not surrendering one of their children's seats on an overbooked flight from Maui. And finally an American flight attendant was videotaped assaulting a women.

Neat!

Southwest, whose staff routinely deals with awful passenger behavior with real diplomacy, somehow never has such incidents. The day after United's Dr. Dao debacle Southwest placed the now famous "we beat our competition, not our customers" ad. Pure marketing moxie.

So congress (purposely lower case), eager to distract from its rush to strip Americans of essential health care, held a public shaming of United's (pretty decent CEO) Oscar Muñoz. Yep, one ill-informed and awful tweet by Oscar landed him in front of congress. But Oscar knows congress has zero intention of actually fixing anything; its just another Roman spectacle.

So, while airlines enjoy record profits, and air rage escalates, American Airlines has cynically begun removing more legroom from coach. Seat spacing will match the planes operated by Spirit (truly America's worst airline). 

American's move is timed on the heels of Emirates announcement it will abandon its US expansion plans. Massive lobbying money spent by the big US carriers to bar Emirates (a truly great airline) from acquiring any US gates has paid off. 

More proof that US corporations find it easier / cheaper to use dark money to avoid competition, rather than improve a product.

Stay tuned for the unveiling of American's new "Third World" class.

And, as planes get more claustrophobic, we can expect customer rage to escalate.

Roadboy's Travels © 2017

San Francisco: Odds and Ends

Roadboy's San Francisco Weekend

Besides a visit to Muir Woods and the "Summer of Love" at the De Young there were some other aspects of my recent trip that I wanted to relay. 

The SF Muni

First off the Muni Pass. They still offer the scratch off unlimited daily use program for travelers. And it is still a bargain for those of us that would prefer not to drive (and spend hours time seeking out parking) in the City.

You can buy the pass at the MUNI ticket office at Halladie Plaza near Union Square. There are passes from 1-3 consecutive days. The pass is good on everything except BART. We bought a 1-day pass and although it might have been slightly cheaper to pay as we went, the convenience was worth it. We used it on MUNI streetcars, buses and cable cars all day long.  We went from Downtown to Golden Gate Park, to Ghiradelli Square, then from Fisherman's Wharf back to the hotel. A 1-day pass cost $21.

Beach Blanket Babylon

Second thing. Beach Blanket Babylon is still playing at Club Fugazzi and it is still wonderful. Go to the later shows. The crowds are spunkier (less of us folks with oxygen tanks). 

This time I opted for the el cheap-o rear balcony. And, it was the best seating yet. The seats are first come, so get there early. These seats are benches (instead of those tiny, too close together, bolted together, cheeks touching your neighbor, chairs everywhere else). Sight lines are great and there is a bathroom upstairs too. Best deal ever.

De Young Observation Tower

If you go to Golden Gate Park stop by the (Free) Observation Tower at the De Young.  Whether or not you pay to visit the museum itself the observation tower offers some unmatched 360° views.

Looking Northwest

 Looking Northeast

Irish Coffee's at the Buena Vista

I'm still a huge fan of the Buena Vista near Ghirardelli Square. It is where the Irish Coffee was invented and they still seem to make hundreds every day. And they are as wonderful as ever. We opted to have an early dinner there and compared to the other dining options in the area found the meal offerings to be reasonably priced and pretty darned good.      

Buena Vista Irish Coffee

Glasses Are Warmed 

Add Two Sugar Cubes

Pour in Steaming Hot Coffee

Follow with Irish Whiskey

Finish With Whipped Heavy Cream

Speaking of Ghirardelli Square.... 

While my favorite chocolate from the Bay Area is made by Guittard, it is clear that Ghirardelli is the chocolate most visitors associate with San Francisco. And when they go to Ghirardelli Square many want an ice cream sundae. So some good news, there are now 2 sundae restaurants at Ghirardelli Square. There is still the original one as you enter initially (frequently really crowded), and a newer one in the upper square itself and it has better views and (usually) shorter lines.

Street Art

Like any big city there is a lot of tagging. But as we walked through Chinatown and North Beach we came upon was some really beautiful wall murals.

2 Pac 

North Beach (Near City Lights Bookstore)

Chinatown Detail

Mel Waters

 Chinatown Context

"Drama" Relief

Lee Lawrie 1930-31

505 California Street
Replica Panels from Elevator Doors

Education Building Harrisburg PA

I'll finish with some of the photos from the Danny Lyon Exhibit at the de Young. Such powerful, evocative imagery. 

 Incarcerated Cotton Pickers

Ferguson Unit Texas 1968

The Eyes Tell Everything

Untitled Illinois 

1965

 Police Officers

Clarksdale Mississippi 1963

Migrant Farmworkers

Citrus Groves, Maricopa County AZ 1977

Ok that is it for odd and ends.

Roadboy's Travels © 2017

1967 The MH de Young Summer of Love Experience

Art, Fashion and Rock & Roll

It has never been easy for me to fully convey what it was like growing up in the Bay Area during the 1960's. When I was 5 (circa 1961) I remember seeing my first beret clad "beatniks" sitting on porches in Berkeley. My dad drove by them whispering curses under his breath. Dad just couldn't fathom the point of these chain smoking students playing bongos. Clearly something new was emerging culturally in the US.

Locally we witnessed the rise of the Black Panther Party, the murder trial of Angela Davis, the abduction of Patty Hearst, the murder of Oakland's new superintendent of schools (Dr. Marcus Foster) and a seemingly endless number of violent campus riots and protests at UC Berkeley and San Francisco State.

Then, over the next few years, America went on to experience the national heartache of repeated assassinations, wrenching civil rights battles and the escalating war in Southeast Asia. 

The sixties emerged as a brutal, prosperous, yet confusing era. The nation was experiencing a full generation of post war prosperity. Its population was heavily comprised of a young, powerful baby boomer middle class. A middle class increasingly able to take family vacations, buy suburban houses, new appliances, a new car every few years and color televisions.

And, as boomer parents became defined by their stuff, many of their kids increasingly began to resent their parents materialism.

Add a war to that resentment and the hippie generation began to emerge as a natural evolution from the "beat" or "beatnik" generation.

 The Age of Flower Power Begins

The first real hippies I remember seeing seemed to be mainly the disillusioned kids rebelling against the Vietnam war and parental authority. The next waves included a healthy dose of lost souls and wannabes.

All determined to come to San Francisco to experience the music, drugs, free love and wear flowers in their hair.

Young Man Against Plywood

(Gelatin Silver Print by Elaine Mayes)

By 1967 Golden Gate Park and the nearby Haight Ashbury neighborhood had become the epicenter of the hippie "movement" and San Francisco entered its "Summer of Love".

On April 8th, the 50th anniversary of the Summer of Love, the MH de Young Museum launched an exhibition of art, fashion and music of 1967.

While some say if you remember the sixties you weren't there, I think, for a lot of us, the imagery of this exhibit will shake loose some of those memories.

The Summer Begins

You'll see Hippie fashions embracing colors, natural fibers, tie dye, headscarves, hats, ponchos, Levi's jeans®, and granny glasses; everything aimed at making a statement. 

Yet, much like the tattoo fad today, once the initial shock of the "look at me" non-conformist fashion wore off (and seemingly every teenager in California became proficient in throwing dye in the washer), the non-conformity became conformity and Bay Area residents became inured to it all.

Hippie Fashion - Colorful Symbols of Youthful Rebellion

 The Shoes

 The Chic

 The Painted Levi's

Besides fashion, in music the drift from folk to rock & roll became a defining force of the era. Bands went into open competition to come up with extreme names: The Grateful Dead, The Jefferson Airplane and Big Brother and the Holding Company. And all of the 60's bands performed with elaborate light shows, courtesy of rock promoter Bill Graham, at his Fillmore Auditorium, Avalon and Winterland Ballrooms.

The de Young exhibition showcases the dazzling posters and postcards Graham used to promote his shows.

 Bill Graham's Concert Handbills


Psychedelic Poster Art
(Lights By Holly See and Music By Janis)

The Grateful Dead

The music, art and fashion always included relentless anti-war themes reminding America that the draft was chewing up America's youth for a war few seemed to really understood. This led artists and actresses like Joan Baez and Jane Fonda to emerge as spokespersons in the anti-war movement.

Joan Baez Instructs: 

"Girls Say Yes to Boys That Say No"

Sadly, the exhibit presents only a superficial visual extravaganza of the trappings of the era, without any attempt to unpack the underlining meaning of the hippie movement and what came next; America's era of drug use that so devastated much of the generation that had come to San Francisco feeling "immortal".

Glamorization Begins For a New American Drug Culture

There is no discussion of the narcissism of the protestors whose "peace" protests abruptly stopped the day after Rumsfeld cynically got Nixon to stop the draft (and then both went right on waging war for many years to follow).

It simply proved that many of the protesters weren't against the horrors of the war, they were against having to put their own lives on the line. Once they were no longer at risk, most quit caring and far too many openly abused the returning soldiers who had gone to fight.

The Summer of Love Exhibit is scheduled to run through August 20, 2017 at the MH de Young museum in Golden Gate Park.

Its fun, its pretty, just don't come with expectations to find a deeper understanding of what it all meant.

And, if you visit the de Young before April 30, be sure to go see Danny Lyon's photographic exhibit. His photos are simply mesmerizing.

Roadboy's Travels © 2017

Roadboy Visits Muir Woods

Thanks Grandma!

When I was a kid my grandmother told me how much she loved making weekend trips to Mount Tamalpais and Muir Woods. We made a day trip to see it and I loved our walk through the majestic grove of redwoods.

 Entry Into Muir Woods

Now a half century later a friend suggested we visit Muir Woods once again. I did a little research and realized that due to its popularity visits today require some logistics. Crowds throng to the grove where they soon discover the Monument offers completely inadequate parking facilities.

To avoid all that we opted for a private tour.  We were picked up from our hotel promptly at 7:15 am on a rainy Saturday morning. We had a spectacular drive over the Golden Gate arriving before the crowds. We spent about 2 hours walking through the towering redwoods. 

 The Hillside Trail

Lush Undergrowth #1

Redwood Creek Rushes in Spring

Another View of Redwood Crrek

 Rain Becomes Sun

The Forest

More Lush Undergrowth

Muir Woods has quite a history:

1892

The Bohemian Club builds a summer encampment, complete with a huge Buddha (based on the Great Buddha at Kamakura), in the Grove that would later come to be called the Bohemian Grove.  

1905 

William Kent and his wife Elizabeth Thatcher Kent buy 613 acres including what would become Muir Woods.

1906  

Congress passes the Antiquities Act giving the President the power to establish National Monuments by Proclamation.

1907  

The City of Sausalito attempts to take Muir Woods by eminent domain with the goal of damming Redwood Creek. The Kents donate 295 acres to the United States.

1908

President Theodor Roosevelt declares Muir Woods the America's seventh National Monument. It is the first national monument comprised of donated land. 

1916

Congressman William Kent introduces a bill in congress to establish the National Park Service. 

1925 

A road is built to Muir Woods.

1938 

The Golden Gate bridge is completed and the number of park visitors triples. 

1945

The founding delegates meet in San Francisco to sign the charter establishing the United Nations. As part of the ceremonies a redwood tree was dedicated in the Cathedral Grove to Franklin D Roosevelt.

During our visit the rain showers turned to sun so we then made a short trip to nearby Muir Beach (which was spectacular). 

 Muir Beach

Muir Beach

 Blooms at the Beach

After leaving Muir Beach ended out tour in Sausalito (passing the bazillions of cars that were now all making their way to the woods). 

 Sausalito's Iconic Fountain

From Sausalito we caught a ferry back to San Francisco's Ferry Building where it was time for lunch. 

 Alcatraz, The Golden Gate Bridge Viewed From The Ferry Ride  Back to SF

 

I always forget how restorative it is to walk in nature. 

What you need to know:

1. Take a tour. For a tour I'd highly recommend click here.

2. If you must drive your own car arrive before 9:00 am.

2. There is a bus in summer from Sausalito, but it seems to register negative reviews.

3. Go to Muir Beach

Roadboy's Travels © 2017