Roadboys Travels: Roadboy Returns to Florence

Part 3: Low Key Florence

Florence

The very word "Florence" brings knowing smiles and genuine affection to anyone who has ever visited this remarkable city.

The Arno at Twilight

(Taken from the Ponte Vechio)

It resides on most travelers "must see" list when making the "Grand Tour" of Europe and is particularly beloved by generations of American architecture students who frequently spend a semester studying in Florence or Rome.

And with Michelangelo's David, the myriad of masterworks to be found in the Uffizi and Bargello, representing every major player during the Renaissance, Florence is a mecca for art lovers.

The Uffizi Gallery

Of course what visitors throng to see today is the historic, walkable, core of the city. Most spend two or three days immersed in Florence's culture, food, and extraordinary shopping before heading off somewhere else.

The Pedestrian Ponte Vechio

So what historical forces resulted in the city they see today?

The historic core of Florence has its roots starting at the end of the 1200's when it was a center of wool production. However it was later, when Florence became Europe's most important global banking center, that a city full of art and architecture emerged. The main reason Florence dominance in banking was due to its coveted gold currency; the "Florin". The Florin became one of the Europe's most respected forms of international currency.

And, at the very same time Florence was ascending in wealth, Italy was experiencing the transition from Gothic to Renaissance.

In Modern Florence Art is Everywhere

From Sidewalks....

To Designer Drawer Knobs

Ruling Florence during this period were ruthless and wealthy families that were willing to employ webs of violence and corruption to secure and then retain control. Yet, as they accumulated breathtaking wealth, they sought to buy prestige as well. This required becoming patrons to the finest artists and architects of their time. The most notable family were the Medici's. They were the Trumps of their day, craving and clawing all forms of raw power at any cost, except the Medici's had taste.

The Florence we see today is an assemblage of the magnificent remnants of their patronage. It is architecture, art, and edifice as a byproduct of terror and corruption beyond comprehension.

But Florence was always under threat constantly battling rivals Siena, Pisa, and Lucca for regional superiority.

Later it was threatened by France, Spain, and (during WWII) eventually Hitler who took control of Florence and Tuscany.

So the glory of Florence and all of its artistic treasures have come at a price.

A Low Key Visit

Like Rome I've had the good fortune to visit Florence on many previous visits. In those visits I have experienced its magnificent (and very crowded) Uffizi Gallery, Academia (the David), and Duomo. So this trip I picked two more intimate places to explore; the Basilica di Santa Croce and the intimate Bargello Gallery. We capped off the visit with a foodie tour.

The Basilica di Santa Croce (Holy Cross) is mostly famous as the final resting place for many of Italy's most illustrious artists and scientists.

And, since I love cemeteries, It held a lot of interest by me so I decided to spend an afternoon there.

Santa Croce

The current church was begun in 1294. However, it took 148 years of construction before it was consecrated in 1442. And, since consecration, it has undergone numerous revisions to its sixteen chapels, added a bell tower in 1842. The neo-gothic marble facade seen today was created by architect Niccolò Mata between 1857-1863. Mata was Jewish and included a prominent Star or David in the composition. Mata is buried under the threshold to the church.

The church was heavily damaged by a major flood of the Arno river in 1966. Restoration work on the church took decades. But, during the restoration efforts, art masterworks that had been covered up over time was disclosed and added to the restoration efforts.

The High Water Mark from the 1966 Flood

Galileo has two tombs in the Basilica. Initially, his remains were relegated to lesser location. Later, however, they were was moved into the main church in a place of distinction.

Galileo's Original Memorial

Michelangelo is also buried here, although that was not in keeping with his wishes. Other notables include Alberti and Ghiberti to Machiavelli.

Machiavelli

Michelangelo

The Bargello Museum

My next visit was the Bargello Museum. This museum is housed in the oldest public building in Florence dating back to 1255. Over its life theb building has served many pubic purposes but was converted in the 1500's into the "Bargello" the headquarters for the City police.

In 1865 it was converted into Italy' first National Museum. The Bargello Museum showcases weapons, paintings. and an exceptional collection of Florentine Renaissance sculpture.

The museum reserves entry times and offers limited hours. But once you enter you encounter intimate gallery spaces all arrayed around a central courtyard.

I found lots to appreciate. However the two mockup panels in the 1401 competition for the second door to the Duomo Baptistry really stood out. One panel was by Brunelleschi (who engineered the dome to the Duomo) and the other was created by Ghiberti (a master goldsmith).

Many scholars identify this competition as the inauguration of the Rennaisance.

Although judges declared the two panels both a winner in a tie, Brunelleschi could not accept that he "tied" with anyone and withdrew from the competition.

Ghiberti then claimed it was always a win for him. The artists ego is second only to maybe a politicians ego?

Ghiberti's Ultimate Winning Submission

Brunelleschi's Submission

The other Bargello masterworks that caught my eye were Rennaisance bronze sculptures by Donatello (David), the and the exquisitely graceful Mercury by

David

(Donatello 1440)

Donatello's David 1440 was commissioned by Cosimo (the Elder) Medici and stood in the Palazzo Medici until they were banished in 1494. It is famous for its blurring of religious iconography and ancient mythologicalogy (With Mercury's winged hat) by portraying the young shepherd as an adolescent boy. His nudity was said to "allude to the humility and courage to defeat arrogance and brute force".

Mercury

(Giambologna approx. 1580)

Although there was so much to appreciate the simple Fisher Boy sculpture in the courtyard was of interest. It was created much later than the other works in the Bargello. The young boy studies his catch. It sort of reminded me of Charles Ray's Boy with Frog presented at the 2009 Venice Biennale. Gemito made two casts for exhibition in Paris in 1878.

Fisher Boy

(Vincenzo Gemito 1876)

Our last evening in Florence was spent enjoying a "foodie" tour. There were stops for pasta's, at wine windows, a Tuscan steak, and finally a visit to one of Flroence's amazing gelato stands.