Roadboy's Edinburgh

History, Architecture, Democracy, and a Wee Dram of Whiskey!

A Glorious Summer Day in Edinburgh  

Last year when my biking buddies and I assessed biking options in 2025 we opted for a week of cycling in the Swiss and French Alps. 

However, flying across the world for just a week's adventure IMHO is kind of morally unethical and biologically nuts. 

These trips consume massive amounts of non-renewable energy and, when too short, result in travel experiences compromised by jet lag. So I try to add my own additional sightseeing activities before a cycling adventure. I'd like to be over jet lag when I get on a bicycle. 

And, when possible, I seek out interesting places where I've never been before and/or really could benefit from my travel dollars. 

Conversely in a world increasingly embracing levels of authoritarianism not seen since Hitler, my travel options diminish each year. I'd love to visit Istanbul, China, St. Petersburg, or Budapest. But I no longer believe they are safe for me. My whole life I've leaned into my fears and visited places that were a bit sketchy, but as I age I believe nations that abandon the rule of law and seek to vilify and isolate vulnerable population groups for persecution is no longer worthy of my travel dollars. This is precisely the same reason given by foreign visitors now avoiding the US.

So, this year I opted for a first visit to Scotland. I have family roots there, I knew the temps would be relatively cool and it is a place that clearly cherishes democracy. 

So I recently boarded flights from Phoenix to Scotland via Philadelphia. The entire trip went very smoothly delivering me into Edinburgh just after sunrise the next day. During our week in this cool green city we had grey days, a little rain, all balanced by some gloriously sunny days. 

It was perfect.

Travel in Edinburgh is easy and efficient. We found well coordinated public transport with trams, trains, and buses. And the historic city is compact and wonderfully walkable.

Our week consisted of an easy flow of sightseeing, cycling, eating well, and just kind of knocking around. Some Highlights: 

• Tartan Bike Tours: Sky to Sea Cycling Tour

A half day of fully exploring Edinburgh Traveling along canals, rail to trail tunnels, up mountains and through parks. The guide was exceptional. He safely maneuvered us around while providing a locals only perspective on what it is like to live in Scotland's capital city. The tour was more than a bike tour, it gave us a wonderful initial overview of an amazing city.     

A Cycling Stop Along Edinburgh's Canals 

• A Concert at The Usher Hall

Edinburgh's gem of a theater played host to Bonnie Raitt during our visit. We were lucky enough to secure some of the last available tickets in the infamous nosebleed area. 

I've seen Bonnie Raitt twice before (the last time accompanied by Muddy Waters about 50 years ago in Spokane Washington). 

Now, 75, Ms. Raitt and her band presented a tight energetic set that resulted in multiple standing ovations. I'm delighted to say she has lost none of her power, skills, or charm. It was such a great show to see in a such a history rch venue.

Bonnie Raitt at The Usher Hall

• The (New) Scottish Parliament

In a city awash in historic architecture the Scots built a truly magnificent "new" legislative building two decades ago. 

It was controversial from the start. It cost a lot more than it was supposed to and it took a lot longer to build than it was supposed to. Yet, the result is a true treasure. And I predict like all architectural masterworks, it will enjoy the benefits of outliving it's naysayers. 

The building, designed by Spanish architect Enric Miralles, is very compact, accessible, and welcoming. Sadly he passed away before seeing its completion. 

While there we watched the parliament discuss healthcare. 

It was inspiring to hear government officials discussing a national obligation for every citizen to access quality healthcare. While in my own country, the world's richest, our current government openly seeks to deny coverage to all but the wealthiest of its citizens.  

It was an interesting and perhaps ironic to see the EU flag flying in front of the building, despite Scotland still being a member of the UK. 

Clearly Scotland's UK days post BREXIT are numbered. 

Architect's Presentation Model

Juxtaposition of Masses at Street View 

 

Complex Interiors Executed 

in a Variety of Indigenous Materials 

• The Scottish National Gallery

Although compact and a bit tattered, the Scottish National Gallery contains some dazzling pieces of art and is (amazingly) free to visit. 

It houses masterworks by Leonardo Da Vinci, Bernini, Rembrandt, El Greco, and some of the most famous of European masters. 

I was also happy to see a wonderful portrait by John Singer Sargent. 

Well worth some time and a great option for a rainy day.    

 

The Scottish National Gallery 

 

Three Tahitians 

(Paul Gauguin 1899)

 

An Allegory

(El Greco - about 1590)   

 

Reverend Robert Walker Skating on Duddingston Loch 

(Sir Henry Raeburn - about 1795) 

Gertrude Vernon, Lady Agnew of Lochnaw

 

(John Singer Sargent - 1892)

There is some significance to this Sargent portrait. It was painted while the sitter was recovering from a serious illness, yet (in true Sargent style) she is presented as confident, alluring, and healthy. It was so well received at the Royal Academy in 1893 that it relaunched Sargent's career that had been devastated due to the 1884 Paris Salon scandal caused by his Portrait of Madame X.

 

• St. Giles "Cathedral"

 

There is too much history to St. Giles to try to abbreviate it here. Some venerable Scots are entombed here and it is can no longer be officially titled a cathedral. Now Presbyterian, it is no longer a cathedral as there are no cathedral's in the Presbyterian church.

 

I found its intimate Thistle Chapel to be one of the most beautiful religious spaces I've ever experienced.   

 

The Thistle Chapel (Side)

 

 The Thistle Chapel

• Edinburgh Castle 

A UNESCO heritage site, Edinburgh castle is the prominent structure towering above Edinburgh. It holds Scotland's crown jewels, celebrates war heroes, remains home to home to St. Margaret's tiny chapel (Scotland's oldest building), and houses the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards. If you plan to tour in summer book well in advance. 

 

Edinburgh Castle 

 

 William Wallace Window in St. Margaret's Chapel

A very tiny space with so much history it could fill volumes. It did prompt me to research William Wallace and learn that the name "Braveheart" actually belonged to Robert the Bruce. 

Quelle surprise Hollywood took some very big liberties with the story.    

 

The Refectory 

• Johnnie Walker Princes Street

Our totally kitsch stop was the "Tour" at Johnny Walker's Princes Street. The "Flavors" tour we took was polished and does include three drinks. But it seemed a bit too "Disney". 

I'll stick to my Jameson.

  

Johnny Walker Strides Confidently on Princes Street 

After a week in this beautiful city, I can proudly say I made the whole trip and still carefully avoided haggis.

 

Roadboy's Travels © 2025 

Bicycling Chianti - Florence to Lucca

Part 4: Cycling Through History

After days absorbing the art and food of Rome and Florence it was time to join my usual biking pals for an organized bicycle tour through Chianti.

Our tour provider was Vermont Bike Tours (VBT). And, while I know there are other amazing bike tour companies out there, I can attest that VBT always furnishes skilled guides, high quality bikes, well curated hotels, great restaurants, and accurate wonderful turn-by-turn GPS routes. After 16 cycling tours with VBT all over planet earth, they have earned my confidence.

I just buy the land portion of the tours and book my own airfare. This allows me to tack on a week or two of independent travel on the front and/or back of each tour.

Our Chianti trip began with a shuttle to meet our guides. The guides for VBT are excellent and always make these complex tours flow seamlessly.

Our first stop was the village of Radda in Chianti. Here we began with a safety class, bike fitting, and a 15 mile warm-up ride to Castellina. The ride was followed by a welcome dinner in our hotel (Palazzo Leopoldo).

Radda in Chianti is one of the five hilltop villages in Chianti. Radda is tiny and offers some quaint shops (including a tiny, yet terrific, bike shop with lots jerseys).

In the morning we set out for 27 miles of cycling ride through some beautiful vineyards with a stop for a picnic lunch at the 11th century Castello di Meleto. At Castello di Meleto we spent time touring the castle and took a tour of their sustainable vineyards with their agricultural expert and organic bee keeper Gabriella. The stop gave us a perspective on the dynamic history of the region.

Vineyards at Castello di Meleto

The Castle is now a lovely bed and breakfast and boasts the only intact theater of its kind in the region.

Touring the Castello's Theater 

Learning About the Wars for Regional Dominance Between Siena and Florence

After returning to Radda it was time to enjoy my appointment in the hotel's spa and later some amazing pizza for dinner.

 Pizza Break (Radda in Chianti)

The next day was a transfer day. First we cycled through Castellina a town designed by Fillipo Bunelleschi (the genius who solved the design for the famous dome in Florence). He centered the roads into the middle of the village to protect its residents from attack.

The cycling took us through the fortified village of Monteriggioni with a stop in Lilliano.

A Rainy Day Pedaling Through Some Lovely Hilltowns

From here we shuttled to the walled city of Casale Marittimo (Where VBT photographed cyclists for the brochure). And here I found some pretty great gelato. I mean it is Italy......

Casale Marittimo

The final leg of our 24 miles of cycling was a zippy downhill run through vineyards to our next hotel located right on the Tyrrhenian Sea. 

Arriving at the Beach

The evening was capped by a stop at the home of a local architect "Chicca". Here, she orchestrated a very lovely (and tasty) hands-on cooking class. We learned some Tuscan recipes, shared some love with her big fluffy dogs, and thoroughly enjoyed the food we cooked in her kitchen.

 Chicca's Canine Welcome Committee

 

 Chiccca Teaching Some Tuscan Cooking Skills

 

Cheese and Honey Appetizers, Gnochi, and Dessert

 

The next day was spent riding in a lovely 27 mile ride along the elegant tree lined roads encircling many of the regions most premier vineyards.

 

Cycling Framed By Rows of Italian Cypress Trees 

 

Riding the Bolgherese Strada del Vino

 

At midday we stopped for a farm to table vegetarian lunch at the Fonte di Foiano olive mill. Our hosts explained the nuances of the olive oils produced in the region. A bottle of their award winning olive oil made its way into my suitcase for the journey home.

The next day was spent on a 42 mile ride through the ancient village of Suvereto. From there we cycled past coastal cypress lined roads, fields of artichoke and sunflowers, ending at the Hotel Caliderio. 

 

 Scenery Reminiscent of California's Monterey Coast 

 

The Caliderio hotel wraps itself around its specatcular 3000 Sq. meter Etruscan hot spring pool. Dinner was fish in Campaglia Marittima.

 

The next day was spent pedaling along Barrtti Bay with a stop at the ancient city of Populonia with its museum and watch tower. 

More Trees to Admire

Some Ceramics at Populonia

 

After returning to the hotel we swam, then all gathered to bid our guides farewell and have our final dinner. 

The next morning we shuttled to Lucca for a walking tour. I then went on to spend an evening on my own in Verona. Verona is lovely and boasts its own coliseum. This coliseum, despite being older than the Coliseum in Rome, is still in use. It was a perfect way to end my tour. 

 

Verona!

 

Up next, my series will chronicle my fall 2024 return to cycle in Greece.

 

Roadboy's Travels © 2025

Roadboy Returns to Florence

Part 3: Low Key Florence

 

Florence

The very word "Florence" brings knowing smiles and genuine affection to anyone who has ever visited this remarkable city.

The Arno at Twilight

(Taken from the Ponte Vechio)

It resides on most travelers "must see" list when making the "Grand Tour" of Europe and is particularly beloved by generations of American architecture students who frequently spend a semester studying in Florence or Rome. 

And with Michelangelo's David, the myriad of masterworks to be found in the Uffizi and Bargello, representing every major player during the Renaissance, Florence is a mecca for art lovers. 

The Uffizi Gallery

Of course what visitors throng to see today is the historic, walkable, core of the city. Most spend two or three days immersed in Florence's culture, food, and extraordinary shopping before heading off somewhere else. 

 

The Pedestrian Ponte Vechio

So what historical forces resulted in the city they see today?

The historic core of Florence has its roots starting at the end of the 1200's when it was a center of wool production. However it was later, when Florence became Europe's most important global banking center, that a city full of art and architecture emerged. The main reason Florence dominance in banking was due to its coveted gold currency; the "Florin". The Florin became one of the Europe's most respected forms of international currency. 

And, at the very same time Florence was ascending in wealth, Italy was experiencing the transition from Gothic to Renaissance.

In Modern Florence Art is Everywhere 

From Sidewalks....

 

To Designer Drawer Knobs 

Ruling Florence during this period were ruthless and wealthy families that were willing to employ webs of violence and corruption to secure and then retain control. Yet, as they accumulated breathtaking wealth, they sought to buy prestige as well. This required becoming patrons to the finest artists and architects of their time. The most notable family were the Medici's. They were the Trumps of their day, craving and clawing all forms of raw power at any cost, except the Medici's had taste.

The Florence we see today is an assemblage of the magnificent remnants of their patronage. It is architecture, art, and edifice as a byproduct of terror and corruption beyond comprehension. 

But Florence was always under threat constantly battling rivals Siena, Pisa, and Lucca for regional superiority.

Later it was threatened by France, Spain, and (during WWII) eventually Hitler who took control of Florence and Tuscany.

So the glory of Florence and all of its artistic treasures have come at a price.  

 

A Low Key Visit

Like Rome I've had the good fortune to visit Florence on many previous visits. In those visits I have experienced its magnificent (and very crowded) Uffizi Gallery, Academia (the David), and Duomo. So this trip I picked two more intimate places to explore; the Basilica di Santa Croce and the intimate Bargello Gallery. We capped off the visit with a foodie tour. 

The Basilica di Santa Croce (Holy Cross) is mostly famous as the final resting place for many of Italy's most illustrious artists and scientists.

And, since I love cemeteries, It held a lot of interest by me so I decided to spend an afternoon there.

Santa Croce

The current church was begun in 1294. However, it took 148 years of construction before it was consecrated in 1442. And, since consecration, it has undergone numerous revisions to its sixteen chapels, added a bell tower in 1842. The neo-gothic marble facade seen today was created by architect Niccolò Mata between 1857-1863. Mata was Jewish and included a prominent Star or David in the composition. Mata is buried under the threshold to the church.

The church was heavily damaged by a major flood of the Arno river in 1966. Restoration work on the church took decades. But, during the restoration efforts, art masterworks that had been covered up over time was disclosed and added to the restoration efforts.

 

The High Water Mark from the 1966 Flood

Galileo has two tombs in the Basilica. Initially, his remains were relegated to lesser location. Later, however, they were was moved into the main church in a place of distinction.

Galileo's Original Memorial 

 

Michelangelo is also buried here, although that was not in keeping with his wishes. Other notables include Alberti and Ghiberti to Machiavelli.

 

Machiavelli

 

 

Michelangelo
 

The Bargello Museum

My next visit was the Bargello Museum. This museum is housed in the oldest public building in Florence dating back to 1255. Over its life theb building has served many pubic purposes but was converted in the 1500's into the "Bargello" the headquarters for the City police.

 

In 1865 it was converted into Italy' first National Museum. The Bargello Museum showcases weapons, paintings. and an exceptional collection of Florentine Renaissance sculpture. 

 

The museum reserves entry times and offers limited hours. But once you enter you encounter intimate gallery spaces all arrayed around a central courtyard. 

 

I found lots to appreciate. However the two mockup panels in the 1401 competition for the second door to the Duomo Baptistry really stood out. One panel was by Brunelleschi (who engineered the dome to the Duomo) and the other was created by Ghiberti (a master goldsmith). 

 

Many scholars identify this competition as the inauguration of the Rennaisance.   

Although judges declared the two panels both a winner in a tie, Brunelleschi could not accept that he "tied" with anyone and withdrew from the competition. 

 

Ghiberti then claimed it was always a win for him. The artists ego is second only to maybe a politicians ego?

 

 Ghiberti's Ultimate Winning Submission

 

 

Brunelleschi's Submission

 

The other Bargello masterworks that caught my eye were Rennaisance bronze sculptures by Donatello (David), the  and the exquisitely graceful Mercury by  

 

David 

(Donatello 1440) 

 

Donatello's David 1440 was commissioned by Cosimo (the Elder) Medici and stood in the Palazzo Medici until they were banished in 1494. It is famous for its blurring of religious iconography and ancient mythologicalogy (With Mercury's winged hat) by portraying the young shepherd as an adolescent boy. His nudity was said to "allude to the humility and courage to defeat arrogance and brute force".

Mercury

(Giambologna approx. 1580)

Although there was so much to appreciate the simple Fisher Boy sculpture in the courtyard was of interest. It was created much later than the other works in the Bargello. The young boy studies his catch. It sort of reminded me of Charles Ray's Boy with Frog presented at the 2009 Venice Biennale. Gemito made two casts for exhibition in Paris in 1878.

Fisher Boy

(Vincenzo Gemito 1876)

 

Our last evening in Florence was spent enjoying a "foodie" tour. There were stops for pasta's, at wine windows, a Tuscan steak, and finally a visit to one of Flroence's amazing gelato stands.

Luscious Tuscan Steaks

 

 A Wine Window

 

 

A Late Night Gelato Stop

After Florence I joined my cycling buddies for 6-days of bicycling through Chianti ending in Lucca and Verona.

Next up posts from my fall return to Greece and after that Roadboy's 2025 January visit to Africa.

 

Roadboy's Travels © 2025