Tuesday, July 27, 2021

Roadboy Returns to the MFA

A Rainy Day Art Detour

When architects talk about certain art museums their eyes roll up in their heads as they mentally drift off to that special place where the world is the best it can be.

For me one of the best museums in the world is Madrid's Museo del Prado. Not only does it feature some of the worlds best art, it provides written explanations that feel like Sister Wendy is whispering in my ear.  

No explanations given youngsters, google Sister Wendy.

Once in awhile art just stops me in my tracks. An example in the Prado is a painting by Joaquin Sorolla (coincidentally a contemporary of John Singer Sargent) entitled "And They Still Say Fish is Expensive!" The power and composition of the piece drew me from across the room to its compelling visual portrayal of two old fishermen tending to an injured young man. Then as I read its description, fully understanding what I was seeing, my eyes began to fill with tears at the portrayal of the old men grieving over a young life needlessly cut short. 

Such is the power of a timeless masterwork. More than a century after Sorolla painted it, it still powerfully touches souls.

And They Still Say Fish is Expensive!
(Joaquin Sorolla 1894 - Photo: Museo Del Prado) 

In North America I experience those same "Prado" feelings when I explore places like The Smithsonian's Portrait Gallery, Chicago's Art Institute, the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), the Getty, Philadelphia's Art Museum and Boston's magnificent Museum of Fine Art (known affectionately by locals simply as the "MFA").

My original intent for the second day in Boston was to visit the Isabella Stewart Gardener Museum, but that was not to be. Upon arrival we got waived off as the museum was sold out (note to self next time - get tickets in advance online!). You have to love a City where an art museum sells out!

Luckily, Boston's MFA is a short walk away and there we were welcome to buy tickets and enter. This was a second visit to the MFA for me and between the two visits I've yet to scratch the surface of the MFA.


Arrival the MFA

Much like the visit to the BPL yesterday, the MFA building presents every visitor from pauper to king with a majestic entrance leading to stairs crowned by an extraordinarily beautiful dome. 


On this visit my goal was to explore the MFA galleries that have been updated since my last visit and emphasize American art. Here are a few items that caught my eye during this visit.


The "Shelter in Place" Gallery

Stuck with no galleries available Boston Artist Eben Haines made this gallery available. He then issued  a call over social media soliciting artists to prepare exhibitions for it. The result was over 100 exhibits from artists around the globe. 

But....this is a little trickster. The gallery is actually a 1" = 1' scale model of a gallery and the artworks displayed inside are tiny. 

Think little Covid Thorne Miniature.


Views Into The MFA's Restorations Labs

A museum of this stature not only displays art it preserves it for future generations. This restoration lab was open to view the restoration of Asian antiquities. 

Head of Medusa
(Arnold Böcklin 1894)

Knowing that this mask of Medusa had stopped me on an earlier visit and did so again, I veered overto read about it. 
 
And, reading about it made me understand that the Medusa's stare is the point. Medusa's gaze upon men was said to hold the mythical power to turn them into stone. Sorta had that momentary affect on me. 
 
The story concludes that Perseus held up a his reflective shield to her and beheaded the snake haired monster.  

 Up in the Sky #1
(Tracey Moffatt 1997)

This image is not a painting. The artist says it is "making" a picture rather than "taking" a picture. The viewer is left to project the story of the image with an aboriginal baby held by a white woman as menacing nuns approach. A statement about Australia's forced separation policies and assimilationist policies.
 
With the recent news of mass graves at Indian schools in Canada and after living in Arizona and Alaska where native children were separated from families at age 12 to attend boarding (indoctrination) "schools", this one hit me full force. Every time I drive Phoenix' "Indian School Boulevard" this image will haunt me.

Ready to Breathe Life

I close with this sculpture. More than a sculpture, the young woman appears as it she could spring free of the bonds of stone and come to life at any time. I admit to being a huge fan of this type of work. An affection based on seeing Bernini's sculptures at the Villa Borghese. 

Anyway, this sculpture was just lovely.

 

Roadboy's Travels © 2021

Monday, July 19, 2021

BPL - One Magnificent Library

The BPL and its Singer Gallery

Boston is an easy city for an architect to fall in love with. It has seemingly everything: history, a waterfront, stunning architecture, world class medical, cultural and educational facilities all served up with a well integrated public transit system. 

Oh, and did I mention great food?

Team Roadboy arrived midweek on a post covid (i.e. oversold) American Airlines flight to spend a few days of "pre-trip" sightseeing before joining chums on an organized Vermont Bike Tours cycle adventure of Cape Cod and Martha's Vineyard (posts forthcoming).

Free (yes free) accommodations were provided at the Residence Inn Downtown / South (Roxbury) courtesy of a Marriott Bonvoy visa card. The property was new, immaculately clean, well equipped and close to Copley Square and the Museum of Fine Art (MFA).

The day began with a walk to Copley Square to admire Trinity Church (HH Richardson's Romanesque masterpiece). Sadly it is still closed. 

Directly across Copley Square stands McKim, Meade and White's 1895 wing of Boston's superb Public Library (referred locally as the BPL). This is America's first urban, municipally funded, free public library. It contains one of our nation's largest research libraries. 

It is a national treasure. 

The entrance to the building has a playful cornice with dolphins and seashells over the word's "Free To All". 

The BPL's front entry plaza is flanked by two large draped bronze sculptures; one representing science, the other art. In a nation now skeptical of science and derisive to art, I found the symbolism of having the entrance leading to knowledge guarded by science and art refreshing.

Science

The library's 1,500 pound bronze entrance doors present figures of music, poetry, knowledge, wisdom, truth and romance. 

Upon entry you are presented with a limestone staircase embedded with fossils. The staircase hall is clad in highly polished yellow Siena marble and presided over by two giant unpolished stone lions memorializing Massachusetts casualties in America's war to end enslavement. The tails of the lions shine from being touched by generations of library visitors for good luck. Murals in the stairway represent philosophy, astronomy, history, chemistry, physics and poetry.


Yellow Siena Marble Entry Staircase

 

  

The Civil War Memorial Lions 

 

Lions Left Unpolished at The Request of the Civil War Families

At the top of the staircase is the entry to Bates Hall. The hall was named for Joshua Bates the first major benefactor to the library. Mr. Bates imposed the conditions that the new library be "warm, light filled, seat at least 150 and be free to all". 

The magnificent English walnut bookcases and tables in Bates Hall are original to the room.

 

 Bates Hall

Although I came specifically to view the librarys John Singer Sargent murals, I soon found myself spending a full afternoon in rapt admiration of the entire building and its art.

 

 

Stairs to the Sargent Murals 

John Singer Sargent 

Sargent is one of my favorite painters. His life was astounding. He was an American born in Florence (where his parents waited out the cholera pandemic). 

His passion for art led to his acceptance in 1856 to Paris' Ecole des Beaux-Arts where he completed his formal art education. 

From the start his work met with broad critical acclaim at Paris Salons. He was applauded for exceptional technical skill and an uncanny ability to capture the nuanced personalities of his portraiture subjects. 

In 1884 Sargent spent an entire year painting an uncommissioned portrait of Madame Pierre Gautreau. He considered it a personal achievement and submitted it to the Paris Salon. The Salon, however, was shocked at Madame's scandalously dangling shoulder strap. Singer kept the portrait in his studio for his entire career. The painting, now referred to as Madame X, hangs in Manhattan's Metropolitan Museum of Art. The furor over Madame X resulted in Singer losing Parisian clients. So he decided to relocate to London. where his fame grew and kept him wealthy. 

Over his life his personal wealth, wanderlust and his multi-lingual skills allowed him to travel and live throughout the world. As part of his travels he formed a bond with Boston through close contacts with many of its most influential citizens including Isabella Stewart Gardner. Boston rewarded Singer with important commissions including the murals for the BPL which he began in 1895.

His work, always expressed a bright impressionistic realism I find joyous. But in the twenties it began to annoy avantgarde art critics whose interest now veered toward modernism / cubism. Singer's work and style was increasingly derided as "dated.

In 1907 he closed his studio and began to focus more on landscapes than portraits. From 1915 to 1917 Singer lived in the United States and painted portraits of John D. Rockefeller, Theodore Roosevelt and James Deering (while living at Deering's palatial Vizcaya estate on Miami's Biscayne Bay). 

Singer also kept producing his BPL work portraying the "progress of religion over paganism". It met with success until his frieze portraying Judaism (entitled Synagogue) was unveiled. Deemed objectionable by Boston's Jewish community it was defaced requiring Singer to repair it. Controversy faded after his announcement he'd abandon the final Sermon on the Mount pane.  

Now, late in his career, Singer again returned to England in 1918. As WWI raged he was commissioned to paint scenes from a world at war. The large chilling piece entitled "Gassed" is a result of that period.It was also the year he came to mourn the death of his niece who perished in a Good Friday shelling of a church.

Larger than life, Singer's personal life was always subject to speculation. Many art scholars assume, due to his relationship with Albert de Belleroche and sensitive portrayal of male nudes, that Singer was gay. And, despite the criticism of his work in the Boston Library, he was frequently derided as "The Painter of Jews" at a time when the world was growing dangerously anti-semitic.
 
At the time of Singers death in 1925 his life's portfolio was being widely characterized as the work of a "past master". 
 
Decades after death his stature found rehabilitation began and legions of new followers including Andy Warhol who commented that Sargent made "everyone look glamorous. Taller. Thinner." 

Various retrospectives of Singer's work were mounted at The Whitney, Boston's MFA and the National Galleries of Washington and London.

 

Sargent's "Triumph of Religion" Murals at the BPL

The Singer murals represent 29 years of work.  They were painted elsewhere and then attached to the BPL's plaster walls using lead and linseed oil in a process called marouflage. Here are samples of the Murals.

Prophet Hosea From the Frieze of the Prophets (West Wall)

Israel Oppressed Arched Panel (lunette - north wall)

Frieze of the Prophets and Moses and the Ten Commandments (north wall below the lunette)

Isreal and the Law (east wall)

 
Hell (west wall)
(Warhol joked Sargent had painted a gangbang with a monster

Synagogue (the controversial panel) 

Overall an uplifting rainy summer day in Boston for Roadboy.

Roadboy's Travels © 2021

Sunday, July 4, 2021

Off to The Cape / Martha's Vineyard

Gonna Go Cycling!

First off Happy Independence Day! 

After years of hella stupid politics, it is my hope on this 4th those leaning right, left and middle might finally come to appreciate what this amazing experiment we call America should mean to us all.

Now for the post! After (seemingly forever) Roadboy is ready to bust out of my Phoenician COVID bubble and return to regular travel.

I'm vaxxed, I've worked hard to remain healthy during the pandemic and I plan to cinch my N95 on tight for a (likely oversold) 4+ hour flight Wednesday from Phoenix to Boston. 

Once there I've set aside three days to go explore Boston before heading off to begin cycling on Cape Cod. In Boston I hope to retrace Paul Revere's ride, visit HH Richardson's Trinity Church, view the John Singer Sargent paintings in Boston's Public Library and spend some time in some of Boston's amazing art museums.

I have high expectations for this cycling adventure. It will be my first trip to Martha's Vineyard and Cape Cod. And, every time I mention my destination, friends glaze over and tell me how much they loved "their trips to the Cape!"

As with all of my biking tours, this one is organized by VBT (Vermont Bike Tours). VBT spoils me. They arrange ground transport, hotels and provide guides and bikes. I just show up prepared to pedal. We'll spend three days touring around Chatham and three days touring around Martha's Vineyard. Cyclng options each day offer routes to cycle between 7 and 60 miles.

So Roadboy's next posts will be from Boston.

Some Housekeeping: 
Blogger is ending its subscription notification service (that tells you whenever I post something new). I'm searching for a workaround for those that would still like notification.


Roadboy's Travels © 2021