Friday, July 14, 2023

Roadboy Cycles Vancouver and Pender Island

Canadian Gulf Islands Tour by Vermont Bike Tours (VBT) 

After a stunning arrival via seaplane into Victoria's Inner Harbor I joined my cycling buddies who had arrived earlier for dinner and a little window shopping (I found an Irish wool hat I had to have) andan obligatory stop at Rogers Chocolates. Then it was off for a great nights sleep.

Victoria's Inner Harbor From The Empress Hotel

 

Cycling Day One:

After a morning walk and a little sightseeing in and around British Columbia's beautiful Provincial Capital, we met our guides Sam and Zuzana for intro's, a bike fitting, and a quick 7 mile warm-up ride through Victoria. 

Similar to Vancouver, Victoria features some very nice separated bike lanes. Along the way we passed the world's tallest Totem Pole (127'-7") and a digital display calculating the number of cyclists using each trail each day, month and year. 

The ride ended early enough we could gather for a welcome reception and dinner. The night was off to a great start for me as one menu choice was (my absolute favorite Alaskan sea treasure) sablefish / black cod. The buttery smooth fish was cooked perfectly. 

 

Cycling Day Two:

In the morning we were shuttled to a rendevous spot near Victoia's airport where we collected our bicycles and took a seaside ride past some very expensive seaside residences on our way the BC Ferry Terminal at Swartz Bay. Here, we boarded the ferry for a sailing to Otter Bay on Pender Island.


 BC Ferry to Pender Island

The sailing was beautiful with smooth waters and blue sunny skies. Upon disembarking on Pender Island we cycled to lunch. From there we were off to Brooks Point where we watched the horizon looking for pods of orca's. Then it was on to check into the lovely Poets Cove Resort and Spa. 

The resort is clearly designed for weddings and my room had an amazing view of the cove and a spot clearly designed for wedding photos. 


 Views Along The Ride to Point Browning

The View From My Room at Poets Cove Resort

 

Cycling Day Three:

In the morning we shuttled to the Port Browning Marina where we were outfitted to spend a few hours sea kayaking. Once we were outfitted and a given safety briefing, we began our paddling along the coast and in Port Browning Harbor.

 

 Sea Kayaking in View of Harbor Seals Sunning on a Nearby Island

Along the way we were joined by some inquisitive seals who followed us along and popped their shimmering silver heads up now and then between our kayaks to check us out. Above us eagles and ospreys soared. 

After the kayaking Sam our guide grilled a wonderful picnic lunch. 


Our Picnic

After lunch Sam provided a bike clinic illustrating basic bike maintenance. I really appreciated the methods he illustrated for reattaching dropped chains (even while moving!), minor derailleur adjustments and changing tubes.

We retraced the route to our hotel in time to swim and soothe muscles in the resorts hot tub.

Afternoon Cycling Back to Poets Cove

View to Mortimer Spit

 

Cycling Day Four:

On day four we were shuttled to Otter Bay to collect our bikes and take the ferry back to Swartz Bay on Vancouver Island. The day included a ride to the Sea Island Cider Mill for a light lunch and a tasting flight of three of their wonderful organic ciders.

 

 Lavender Blooming at the Sea Island Cidery

Our cycling ended at Oak Bay we checked into the wonderful Oak Bay Beach Hotel and Spa. This hotel is truly special (and was recognized by Conde Nast Traveler as Canada's No. 1 hotel in their 2021 Reader's Choice Awards. The rooms were quiet and included fireplaces. The hotel's cozy Snug Pub and its mineral pools and spa all overlook the bay.

The Oak Bay Beach Hotel

Cycling Day Five:

Our last day included our longest rides including 20 miles on the Galloping Goose Bike trail to Victoria's renowned Butchart Gardens (with a gelato stop along the way) and 21 miles back to the Oak Bay. This was probably my third or fourth visit to the stunning Butchart Gardens and everything seemed to be in full dazzling bloom.


 The Sunken Garden (Butchart Gardens)

We returned for a soak in the mineral pools and then dressed for our farewell dinner.    

Oak Beach Bay's Mineral Pools 

(Views of the Chatham and Discovery Island Indian Preserves Beyond)

The tour calls it day six, but in reality the trip is five days which run by fast. So the next morning we gathered in the morning to make our way to whatever means of travel we were respectively using to depart the Island. 

As I have old friends living just across the Straits of Juan de Fuca in Sequim Washington, I left aboard the Black Ball Ferry's Coho in a morning sailing to Port Angeles.

75° temperatures, Canadian hospitality, amazing food and lots of sunshine and blue skies framed a beautiful cycling vacation.


Roadboys Travels © 2023

Thursday, July 6, 2023

Cycling Stanley Park / Seaplanes to Victoria

Last Days in Vancouver

I take pride in crafting trips that (whenever possible) avoid any need to rent a car. Except in rural locales, where there are no other options, cars represent the frustration driving in unfamiliar surroundings. 

So traveling to superb multi-modal destinations, like Vancouver, makes me happy. Post EXPO 86 Vancouver knit together a remarkable multi-modal transportation network. There is robust public transport linking everything from the airport to downtown, the cruise ship terminal and a busy seaplane port. A huge advantage Vancouver offers is completely separated bike lanes (complete with separate bike traffic signals). 

It is so wonderful to pedal in the city with more than a white stripe separating your from idiots in cars texting while driving.

For my last full day in Vancouver I rented an e-bike from Cycle City (excellent) for an afternoon spin through Stanley Park.

Stanley Park is one of the very finest urban parks in North America. It is an oasis of calm with stunning views at every turn located next to one of the densest neighborhoods in North America. The park offers a wide and beautiful waterfront trail perfect for leisurely walking and cycling. Spandex clad thigh hammer road bikers can stick to the roadway with the cars.

Cycling Stanley Park Along the Shore

Cycling over the Top of the Lions Gate Bridge

As readers may know, Roadboy loves me some bridges. And the Lions Gate Bridge is one of my favorites. It is a graceful, almost delicate span that softly emerges from the park. Designed by Monsarrat and Pratley of MontrĂ©al, the iconic Lions Gate Bridge opened to traffic in 1938. It was "officially" dedicated May 29, 1939 by King George VI and Queen Elizabeth and it remains one of Canada's longest suspension bridges. 

I was surprised to learn that the Guinness Brewing family paid for the bridge during the height of the Great Depression. They needed a link from Vancouver to their residential suburbs in West Vancouver.

In 1955 Vancouver repaid the price of the bridge. It is named for twin peaks in the North Shore Mountains. According to the Canadian Encyclopedia it is about the same length as the Brooklyn Bridge. 

For Expo 86 the Guinness family returned to pay for the installation of the necklace lighting on the bridge.

Although expanded from its original 2 lanes to 3, the bridge is clearly inadequate to address modern traffic. However, the City has resisted making any dramatic changes to the structure.

Sunset from Stanley Park

After my cycle tour of the park I returned to my hotel to pack and prepare for my flight to Victoria the next day.

Seaplane to Victoria

Despite BC's elaborate ferry system the most convenient and easiest (and arguably one of the most scenic) ways to journey from downtown Vancouver to downtown Victoria is via seaplane. The seaplane center is located steps from the Cruiseship terminal at Coal Harbor. Flights to Victoria are provided by Harbour Air. Harbour Air operates the largest all-seaplane fleet in North America.  My flight, in a Canadian built DHC-3 De Haviland Single Otter was smooth but noisy (bring earplugs). Also, be aware luggage is severely limited on these flights. As a result, I upgraded my fare and packed more carefully than usual for this trip.

 

Pilot Readies for Take Off

Roadboy Selfies


Circling Over Vancouver

The Lions Gate and Stanley Park

 Islands Nearing Victoria
 
 

Landing In Victoria's Inner Harbor

The beauty of landing in Victoria's Inner Harbor is in the ability to walk grab my bag and simply walk to my hotel (a really wonderful DoubleTree located right behind the stately Fairmont Empress Hotel).

After meeting up with my cycle friends we found a cafe for some cider and halibut and chips. Then, I was off to sleep. 

In the morning our 5 days of island cycling would begin.

Roadboy's Travels © 2023