Sunday, July 21, 2019

Roadboy: Finishing My Wright Journey

Taliesin at Spring Green

Over the years when asked why I became an architect, my answer contains a lot of parts, but one facet was experiencing a Frank Lloyd Wright building in San Francisco when I was about five years old.

Now, having practiced architecture for thirty nine years (sheesh!), I have come to realize that architecture is one of very few professions where our work tends to get better the longer we practice.

While young practitioners tend to be overly influenced by whatever the cool kids are doing, the old ones (moi) tend to know what has worked for them. So we draw inspiration from more timeless influences while blowing off fads.

For me, a big part of the joy of architecture has been the process of finding and absorbing inspiration in the work and vision of others. Last month I visited works by some extraordinary Danish, Swedish and Finnish master architects. And, much of their work was a refreshing reminder of how architecture can create joy.

Fast forward.

Throughout my life I've had various opportunities to visit many of the remarkable buildings designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. I've dsort of been checking them off my mental list one by one. 

Three of them left on my list.....
Taliesin - Wright's Wisconsin home, studio and school in Spring Green
The Johnson Wax Offices in Racine, Wisconsin. 
The Price Tower in Bartlesville, Oklahoma (his only highrise - now operated as a hotel).

This week on Wednesday I was able to check off Taliesin.

 Taliesin Viewed From The Pond Below

 Viewed From the Central Lawn

 Wright Tucked The House Into The Hillside

Taliesin (Welsh translation: shining brow) was the prairie style residence Wright completed in 1911 on land owned by his mother. His intention was to create a residence where he could live in privacy with Mamah (his mistress) after both had left spouses and abandoned their children. 

The Studio

The privacy ended when Chicago newspapers headlined their "scandal" on Christmas Day. That publicity also drew attention to Taliesin; his daring new hillside home and studio.

Taliesin was a laboratory where Wright would test his ideas as well as the site of his life's biggest heartbreaks.

A Corner "Window" That is Actually a Door in Wright's Studio

 The Studio's Conferencing Area

 Crossing From Studio Into The Residence

 Wright Was Short
Period

 The Quartet Music Table 
Part of the Living Room

What we view today is actually the third version of the home. The first building (the 1911 Taliesin) was destroyed during a mass murder that resulted in the death of Mamah, her two young children, various draftsmen (and one of their children) and carpenters who were on the site. All were killed with an axe by a mentally deranged servant who then set the bodies and house on fire. Most of the structure was destroyed.

The Dining Area
 Also Part of the Main Living Area

After a period of physical and emotional trauma, Wright resolved to rebuild a new Taliesin. The new  Taliesin was completed in 1914 and was notable as his break from the Prairie Style he invented and was famous for. 

 One of Wright's Corner Windows

 Seat Cushions Raised Illustrating Furnishings Made From Old Recycled Site Signs

He lived in the house periodically during that time between the time he spent living at various construction sites (including his Imperial Hotel in Tokyo). 

Just eleven years later, in 1925, Taliesin II was nearly destroyed in an electrical fire. 

Taliesin was again rebuilt in late 1925 as the structure we see today.

Two years later in 1927 Taliesin III was foreclosed on by the Bank of Wisconsin. The house and land was repurchased with the financial help of various clients and admirers.

 The Birdwalk From the Living Room

In every iteration Taliesin was used to explore his design ideas. It was always a work in progress using the labor of the students at his fellowship. Their enthusiasm was not always accompanied by the construction skills needed and the house has suffered from improper foundation design, and floods causing the need for costly on-going restoration efforts.

Taliesin, being expansive and costly to heat, became Wright's summer home after he built Taliesin West in Scottsdale in 1937 (where Wright would move his school and spend his winters until his death).  
 
 
 The Birdwalk From the Bedroom Terraces

Wright's architecture studio at Taliesin is where he created some of his most iconic design's including: Midway Gardens, The Johnson Wax Building, Fallingwater at Bear Run, the Coonley Playhouse and the Solomon R. Gugenheim Museum.

The Adjacent Barn and Stables

At Taliesin Wright would meet with clients and friends that frequently stayed on as houseguests. Wright's guests at Taliesin included R. Buckminster Fuller, Solomon R. Guggenheim and Lugwig Mies Van Der Rohe.

Taliesin was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site just a few days before my tour.


Roadboy's Travels © 2019

Tuesday, July 9, 2019

Travel Like A Pilot

The Case for Quality

I travel almost every week and to say I'm hard on luggage is an understatement. I've shared travels with Samsonite, Delsey, TravelPro, Hartmann, Olympia, Skyway, Victorinox, Tumi and Briggs & Reilly.

But lately I have grown frustrated at what I perceive is a general decline in quality in the "premium" end of the luggage spectrum.

All the manufacturers are pitching four-wheel "spinner" cases. While convenient, most have truly crap wheels.

And don't get me started on the abysmal quality of telescopic handles and zippers.

While quality goes down, the prices go up. So most road warriors I know choose one of two strategies:

1. Buy luggage with a great warranty (i.e. Briggs & Reilly)
Or 
2. Consider luggage disposable (to hell with landfills) and replace it annually at Marshalls

My philosophy has always been buy quality and let my favorite luggage repair refurbish them every couple of years - new wheels, fix the handle etc.
    
Last week, however, I had an unfortunate, if very memorable, luggage event involving an escalator in Vancouver Canada. It resulted in the permanent demise of my beloved Tumi / Ducati suiter. 

So, as I considered my options, it occurred to me the luggage many pilots use appears pretty rugged. They have have high impact sidewall edge liners, use single piece aluminum slide handles (instead of the usual telescopic ones), fit perfectly in overheads, have hooks made of metal and military grade zippers.  

 The Pilot Suiter

So here's the deal. I now know anyone is welcome to shop at crew supply outfitters and order pilot bags. And, IMHO, when quality is factored in, prices are a bargain.

Solid Rubber Grip Handles

One Piece Slide Handles

High Impact Sidewall Liners
and Lots of Custom Pouches

Yep, Roadboy now has a 22" "Stealth" expandable suiter made by LuggageWorks. It was assembled in Missouri :-) and is clearly built to last a lifetime.

Even when Roadboy is on the other end of the handle.


Roadboys Travels © 2019

Wednesday, July 3, 2019

Scandinavian Food Finds

What the Heck is Quark Anyway?


A short posting here to celebrate some of the foods Roadboy found interesting in his visit to Scandinavia.

In this post we will answer the following questions:
Q. 1. Is Scandinavian food all weird pickled gelatinous fish?
Q. 2. What is Quark?
Q. 3. What is that water bath for eggs on the breakfast buffet? 
Q. 4. Can Roadboy get over bacon and eggs?
Q. 5. Why should we love porridge? 
Q. 6. Is Smorbröd mankind's most perfect sandwich?
Q. 7. Should you salt licorice? 

Answers:
Q. 1. Is Scandinavian food all weird pickled gelatinous fish?
A. No. Get over that cliché.  There are exciting culinary happenings going on under the midnight sun. Proof might be the four years in a row Restaurant Magazine pronounced Denmark's Michelin starred Noma Restaurant as the best restaurant in the world.

Q. 2. What is Quark?
A. I found quark in big bowls next to the yogurt on breakfast buffets. It had the velvety smooth consistency of heavy whipped cream and I noticed that younger people were piling it on instead of yogurt at the breakfast buffet. 

Turns out quark is a soft dairy cheese. It is low in fat and calories (!!!!) and can be used in recipes to replace yogurt or cream. I added it to my bowl of yogurt and loved it. It is available in the US at Whole Foods.

Q. 3. What is that water bath for eggs on the breakfast buffet?
A. Although many breakfast buffets offered the usual 4, 8 minute and scrambled eggs, many had eggs in little jacuzzi water baths. Turns out they deliver eggs that are not really soft boiled and not really poached. They were just perfect.   

Q. 4. Can Roadboy get over bacon and eggs?
A. Yep. While breakfast to an American is eggs and bacon, period, Scandinavian's graze from a dazzling array of fresh fruit and veggies plus yogurt for breakfast. After about 3 days I went straight for the big bowls of mango, vanilla, strawberry and traditional yogurt. To which I added flax seeds, muesli / granola, fruit purees, nuts and coconut flakes. It was so good!

I came home and immediately went to the bulk foods section in Sprouts to load up on goodies for my new found morning friend: yogurt.

Breakfast Buffet København

Q.5. Why should we love porridge? 
A. When I think of porridge it conjures up a fairy tales and bears. So imagine what happens when porridge is made as a savory dish. Sort of a love child with risotto. Or with tons of the add ins. Well the answer is delivered all day at Grød (click if you'd like). I tried their amazing risotto and pea porridge. Damn!

Q. 6. Is Smorbröd mankind's most perfect sandwich?
A. Maybe. The Scandinavians have perfected elaborate open-face sandwiches (known as smorbröd). They were almost always topped with colorful eggs and greenery.

Shrimp Smorbrod

Smorbröd at the Karl Fazer Cafe Helsinki

Salmon and Potato Smorbröd

Sort of a Swedish Bahn Mi
(I also loved Somersby ciders, especially their "cloudy apple") 

Smorgastarta Sandwich Layer Cakes

Q. 7. Should you salt licorice? 
A. All throughout Sweden we found a seemingly endless variety of artisan licorice. They dust it with cocoa and fruit powders. It surrounds almonds. And then they salt the heck out of it. Well here is where Roadboy drew thew line.

Should you salt it? For me the answer was an emphatic No! Although loved their traditional sweet versions. 
 Visiting an Artisan Licorice Factory

In sum; for me the food in Scandinavia was a pure delight; no GMO, no "better living through science" Frankenstein food (courtesy of the mad scientists of Monsanto and ADM).

I leave you with two more things relative to food in Scandinavia. One, they invented the Smorgasbord (which Las Vegas has ruined) and two, everyone should have the joy of enjoying the amazing smell of hot cardamon buns fresh from the oven! OMG.

Smorgasbord

Cardamon Buns

Roadboy's Travels © 2019