After a lifetime of rambling around North America, I admit to falling in love with it over and over.
I also keep finding places that somehow become extra special to me. Sometimes it is the flora and fauna. Sometimes it is the terrain or even geological splendor of a place. Sometime its it the people, the food, or a unique culture. For whatever reasons some places just get elevated into the "special" category.
Some of these places gracefully fly below the radar of the travel guides. So here are a few of my favorites:
Wilmington, North Carolina
Try to imagine a city with over 200 city blocks of pre-civil war housing. A place with the charm of Savannah or Charleston without the tourist hype. A place with huge canopy trees filled with spanish moss. A place where the Cape Fear river joins the intercoastal waterway. A place where all the hurricanes head, but has never had to be evacuated. A place that serves as the third most popular US location for movie and television production right after LA and New York. A place where college kids can come to study and to surf.
Wilmington North Carolina seems to quietly go about its business humming to its own laid back rhythm. Everyone seems to just let you be. Movie star. No big deal, certainly no reason to stare, besides it would be plain rude. So if you see movie and tv star on the street or sipping a perfect latte at Port City Java just go about your own business.
Amazingly, Wilmington's hotels are all a bit sad. I'm a diamond member at Hilton, and prior to its renovations I would have rated the monolithic wall of a Hilton in Wilmington as one of the worst on the planet (not quite as bad as the wretched Desoto Hilton in Savannah, but close). Even after its own "renovation", Wilmington has the worst Marriott Courtyard on the planet.
But, take heart, the shortcomings of its hotels are more than off-set by its top rated bed and breakfasts. My favorite is The Front Street Inn. I know that since my last trip the ownership has changed, but the wonderful reviews on Bed and Breakfast.com would suggest that even with new owners it has retained its character and quality. The other B&B that I have always wanted to stay at is the Greystone Inn. These are both in the Historic District and within walking distance of downtown.
There are fine restaurants in both Wilmington and in close by Wrightsville Beach. Wilmington is also an excellent home base to make a side trip to Kure (pronounced "curry") Beach and Fort Fisher and one of the state's three aquariums.
Besides coming for a relaxing weekend, consider a stroll in the splendid Airlie Gardens, a tour of the antebellum Bellamy Mansion and gardens, or the terrific Cameron Art Museum (with its exceptional collection of Mary Cassatt sketches).
Wilmington seems to rest below the radar. Maybe that is precisely what makes it so special.
The Mission Inn
All the way at the other end of the nation is the Mission Inn in Riverside California.
Now in the middle of the smoggy LA inland empire, Riverside is certainly not a place on much of anyone's "gotta see it" list. Yet set in the heart of downtown Riverside is the lovely Mission Inn. The Inn stands in testament to a time when Riverside was just the quiet home to fragrant orange and lemon groves. Even today, the Mission Inn harkens back to another time. Its original owner lavished love and attention on every incremental stage of its growth and development. Some rooms have prayer niches, others fireplaces, or even pianos. A few look like they were made for a visit by Rudolph Valentino.
Every layer and level of this architectural fantasy is different. You peak over one wall and there is a Moorish chapel (complete with windows by Tiffany). A little further and the theme changes to a village in China. You can easily get lost trying to find your room here (I'm serious).
When it was built nothing was spared and everything was for sale (and had a pricetag underneath to prove it). There were birds and rare plants. There is still damage from a circus elephant that got loose on its grounds.
Because of its grandeur the Inn has played host to presidents on official business and pleasure (one even wed here). It was also a favorite hideout of hollywood stars for decades.
But as Riverside changed into a big city, and the groves disappeared, the Inn lost its glamor and eventually closed. It then remained in a state of advancing decay for decades.
Luckily it survived the wrecking ball long enough to be revived in the 90's. I have to hand it to those responsible for its resurrection, as they clearly paid great attention to restoring its lovely details with obvious affection.
The Inn has its faults, and I caution those that have a 5 star expectation of perfection may be disappointed. It is a very old building. The elevators are miniscule. It is not part of a chain that exacts perfect management. It does not have plasma screens in every room. What it has is precisely what every modern hotel lacks. It has character, charm, personality, and soul. So if you are looking for a "Frette sheet" experience, go to Beverly Hills (see references to Scottsdale and La Jolla). If you can allow yourself just a moment to step back in time, go enjoy the Mission Inn.
While pricey, on my visits the Inn's restaurants have always been excellent. Truly a perfect place for special occasions and sunday brunch. The Inn also features an elegant pool in which I have floated at night in complete solitude and bliss.
It is decorated in spectacular fashion at Christmas.
For an anniversary, splurge, rent one of the Inn's very private two-story rooftop suites. This place transports you back to California in its dream state.
I will always have a special place in my heart for Hawaii. Many moons back I migrated with a new family to Honolulu to work on the planning of its (then) new Police Headquarters. It came at a very remarkable time in our life, we had just started our family and had just moved from Alaska.
Maybe my love of the place was partly the result of the wonderful affection shown to us by the locals (perhaps it was just because they love babies, and we had one at the time - our daughter was just a few months old). Perhaps it was because we were coming from mostly winter to mostly summer. Perhaps it was enjoying playful geckos in our Christmas tree, or maybe just coming to appreciate the Hawaiian way of looking at life. I'm not sure. But Hawaii came at a perfect time for us.
During the year and a half we lived and worked in Hawaii, we toured nearly every island and came to appreciate and love them all.
First, Oahu the gathering place. So aptly named. Oahu is the island everyone likes to badmouth because it has military, industry, highrises, and most of the population of the state. But it also serves as the gateway to most visitors arriving from either east or west, it is the seat of government, commerce, culture, and higher education.
I know Oahu is crowded and the hotel ghetto of Waikiki is nerve wracking, nonetheless, no visit to Hawaii can be considered complete without a stop in Oahu. Here's why:
Our very soul as a nation was galvanized at Pearl Harbor. Much like a visit to the Vietnam memorial in Washington DC, any visit to the Arizona Memorial is guaranteed to choke up even the most jaded among us.
Then there is its museums. Oahu's museums are the best. Period. The finest is arguably is the Bishop Museum. It somehow captures the soul of Hawaii. Next is Bertram Goodhue's wonderful Honolulu Academy of Arts. A true gem of architecture, it has amazing collections including an enviable impressionist collection. The Academy is located at the top of Thomas Square with those huge banyon trees.
Honolulu has a great arboretum, world class shopping, and some of the best restaurants in the United States. My favorites were Woodlands for exquisite Chinese dumplings, and Yanagi for sushi. The Kaimuki neighborhood had delightful local's only neighborhood restaurants (our favorite was Kimchee 2 for Kalbi!).
For a weekend brunch on the beach reserve a spot at the Kahala Hotel (take money!)
For wonderful Hawaiian food go straight to Ono on Kapahulu and join the line. They close early, serve everything on mismatched melmac, and they only take cash.
I came to love a daily dose of sticky rice. And I don't think I'll ever get over Chinese lunches at Patti's or Lappert's phenomenally rich ice cream. To this day all someone has to do to get me hungry is say "plate lunch" or talk about waffles with mac nuts and coconut syrup. Also don't forget to try some mochi and make the drive to North Shore and Matsumoto's General Store for amazing shave ice.
Do plan a snorkel trip to Hanauma Bay Beach Park. Sneak a few frozen peas in and feed the clown fish.
I admit the whole time I lived there I somehow missed the Polynesian Cultural Center which many (including my mom!) rated as one of the highlights of their trip to Oahu. Personally, some quiet reflection at the punchbowl (the meticulously maintained National Cemetary of the Pacific) puts the price of democracy that my parents generation paid for me in perspective.
Sadly, the streamlined moderne deco architectural icons from the 40's through the 50's all seem to be disappearing one by one as Honolulu reshapes itself ever higher and more dense. But do take time to take a docent tour of Iolani Palace, the beautiful YWCA - by Julia Morgan (architect of Hearst's Castle at San Simean), Honolulu Hale (City Hall), and Hawaii's beautiful State Capital with its emotion charged abstracted sculpture of Father Damien (who came healthy to serve Molokai's lepers only to contract the disease and become disfigured - as conveyed by the sculpture).
Maui is the spoiled child of Hawaii. It has great beaches, rain forests, breathtaking Haleakala crater, wineries, paniolos (cowboys), superb golf, world class resorts and the lovely cities of Hana and Lahaina.
My suggestion is always to get out of bed, rent a bicycle, go upcountry, and see the sun rise at Haleakala. Then pedal down stopping for breakfast along the way. One of the bike shops used to just haul you up and then you were on your own all day. I prefer that to the organized "ride in a straight line" tours.
• The Big Island
Hawaii is indeed big. It is also very diverse. It has the stunning black sand beaches of the Kona coast. It has delightful coffee, active volcanoes, working cattle ranches, the most beautiful golf courses in the world, more world class resorts (along a coastline that arguably should never have been developed), and in my opinion, the most Hawaiian of all cities Hilo.
Hawaii's garden Island can be rainy, and it can be windy, but it is always beautiful. This is the island with the rugged coastline (think helicopter tours), more wonderful resorts, and golf. Kauai defines "lush" and "verdant". In fact, Kauai is where Jurassic Park was filmed.
Unfairly stuck with the reputation for its leper colony at Kalaupapa, Molokai is the true hidden gem of Hawaii. It is where you go when you truly want to bag the hype and relax Hawaiian style. It still has pristine coral reefs worth snorkeling to.
So there you go.......
It is no wonder Hawaiians consistently live longer than the rest of the US. They get it. They put life in balance. They go to the beach.
Hawaii was summarized perfectly for me by the (then) Chief of Police's executive secretary when I asked her the true meaning of "Aloha". She smiled and said "oh thats easy it means - to turn and face the breath of life". What a dazzling answer. It sums up Hawaii perfectly.
She also gave me the best piece of advice I got the whole time I was there. She told me to pack away all of my beloved starched white shirts and ties. She advised that I go buy lots of high quality Hawaiian made Aloha shirts. I went to the wonderful Liberty House department store at Ala Moana (now Macys) and started buying Hawaiian shirts. The shirts I bought almost 25 years ago, still wear like iron. They have allowed me to celebrate Aloha Friday wherever I've lived since. Today, the best shirts seem to be those by Tori Richard and Reyn Spooner. Sadly, you have to really look around to find the ones still made in Hawaii.
Hawaii simply can't be absorbed on a single one or two week trip. It is best experienced on multiple vacations. Pick an island or two on each trip. Take your time. Enjoy our truly magical 50th state.
When traveling in Europe last spring I learned something interesting. When locals asked where I was from and I said "The US", they just responded with a polite "oh". America's esteem over the past decade has gone from lofty to a big swirl downward. Anyone that says otherwise, well they simply don't travel.
When I said I was from Arizona, however, they immediately smiled and said "Cowboys!" or "The Grand Canyon!" Tensions in the world may ebb and flow, but the world is in love with the mystique of the American Southwest.
So here is what I think is special about my home, Arizona. I'll start at the top of the Copper State and work my way down.
The Top of the State
• The Grand Canyon and the Lands of the Navajo
OK, its big, its deep, its wide. Yep the most visited landmark we have is the Grand Canyon. Lets be clear, despite what the Las Vegas Visitors Commission would like you to believe, it is now, and will always be, in Arizona.
The Canyon (rightfully) tops everyone's "you must go here" list. My family and I went there just after the World Trade Center. It was the best place imaginable to clear our heads after the national tragedy.
A trip to The Grand Canyon can be a drive along the south rim, a walk over that goofy glass overlook (not my cup of earl grey), or the full meal deal (make reservations a year in advance) then hike down to the bottom with a stay at Phantom Ranch. To the hikers I tip my glass of vino (from El Tovar at the top).
While at El Tovar ask a ranger where the condors are (they frequently nest along the South Rim). Nothing prepares you for the majesty of these creatures. Also, at the South rim be sure and take in Architect Mary Colter's masterpieces: Hermits Rest, El Tovar, Hopi House, and The Watchtower.
I would be kicked under the table if I didn't mention that many Zonies contend that the best Canyon experience is from the more remote North Rim.
While up north, consider a visit to the Hubble Trading Post, Havasupai Falls (reservations required), or Canyon de Chelly. Google em for more data.
To some, no trip to Northern Arizona would be complete without a motorcycle trip down a stretch of Route 66. To others, it is a raft trip down the Colorado River. For me, it is spending a night or two at the La Posada in Winslow.
• Mary Colter's Legacy
Despite passing away nearly fifty years ago, Ms. Colter left the southwest a timeless legacy of architecture and romantic imagery. She designed everything from the china for the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway, to a necklace of marvelous Fred Harvey hotels strung from New Mexico to The Grand Canyon. Of those hotels, she frequently expressed a special affection for the La Posada Hotel in Winslow. In fact, a year before her death, when the Santa Fe Railway threatened to demolish La Posada, she remarked to a friend that she now realized that there was a time "when one realizes they have lived too long". Now run by a husband and wife team the hotel offers beautiful rooms and gardens, and a great dining room: The Turquoise Room.
Even today, since the hotel owns the Amtrak station, the Southwest Chief stops directly in front of the hotel twice a day on its run from Chicago to LA.
• Stargazing in Flagstaff and Bike Trekking to Sedona
Before you start south here are couple of other options to consider. First, spend the night in Flagstaff (zonies just call it "Flag") so that you can go take a look through the historic telescopes at the Lowell Observatory. Forget fine dining in Flag it is a typical college town. Restaurants rely on half interested student workers so the service is spotty. Or as one snotty barista sniffed at me at the local "late for the train" coffee spot "we don't do sugar-free in our lattes". He then proceeded to talk on his cell, get the order wrong, and undercharge me. I felt no obligation to correct or tip the twit. There is, however, a Dairy Queen in Flagstaff (I love chocolate dipped cones, so I always keep track of the location of DQ's).
In the summer consider making a bike trek from Flagstaff to Sedona. It is an all day event, mostly downhill, and drops you thousands of feet in elevation. For the route check in at Cosmic Ray's Bike Shop in Flagstaff (Cosmic Ray's bike book is the best guide to mountain biking in AZ). The route to Sedona uses logging roads and winds up with a final descent down breathtaking Schnebly Hill zig zagging back and forth past the pink jeeps touring through Sedona's amazing red rocks. Then spend the night at any Sedona hotel with a spa! If you'd rather not take a bike, make the drive through the beautiful Oak Creek Canyon. Maybe take a dip at the sliderock!
• Sedona to Jerome
Sedona is said to have special cosmic properties "the vortex" and all. I think its all horse crap myself. But do stop for a moment and take in Anshen and Allen's gem: the Chapel of the Holy Cross nestled in the rocks overlooking Sedona. Try your best to ignore the monster house some whack nut recently built below the chapel. It desecrates the chapel and nature in general.
From Sedona I heartily suggest diverting to Jerome. Jerome is the tenacious little mining town that cycled from virtual ghost town in the fifties, to thriving arts colony today. After a stop for lunch (it will be made by a genuine old hippie wearing birkenstocks, who baked the granola bread, and it will come with sprouts etc.).
Now given my choice I'd travel over Mingus Mountain to Prescott for a stay at the Hassayampa Inn. The easily walkable town square in Prescott is bordered by the notorious bars of Whiskey Row.
• Beautiful Wind Bells and on to Phoenix
After leaving Prescott point the car to Phoenix. Along the way you can stop at Paolo Soleri's ant farm: Arcosanti. The altruistic idea behind Arcosanti has not been realized despite Soleri spending a lifetime convincing a never ending stream of architectural students to work on it for free. The only reason I'd stop would be to buy something in the bakery or one of the wonderful arcosanti wind chimes (tip: you can also buy them in Phoenix if you'd rather not stop).
As you approach the Phoenix metroplex the size of it becomes overwhelming. Now the fifth largest city in the US it has been growing and (sadly) chewing up virgin desert at the rate of an acre an hour for most of a decade.
When contemplating the Phoenix Metro area think of it as a compass. The middle of the compass is central Phoenix downtown.
The far west side of the northern half of the compass is bounded by the White Tank Mountains and all of the "Sun Cities" (age restricted communities) along with the rapid growing cities of Glendale (Luke Air Force Base, antique shops, and the Cardinals stadium - imagine a big titanium wart in the middle of nowhere) and Peoria.
The far east side of the northern half of the compass is bounded by the MacDowell Mountains, the Salt River Pima Indian Community, Scottsdale (Snottsdale - see also references to La Jolla and Rodeo Drive) and Carefree (ditto). This is where all of the plastic surgeons that missed out on Beverly Hills and/or Palm Springs came to nip and tuck. Here, you can stay in any one of a number of Mobil 4 and 5 star resorts while being blinded by humans with frighteningly bleached smiles. This is also the land of the mega Scottsdale Fashion Square mall that borders the new Scottsdale "waterfront" (translation: slightly odiferous irrigation canal). It is also the realm of amazing cars. Eurocars (usually convertibles) that carry Scottsdale's freakishly augmented women donning their amazing variety of hubcap earings. The men folk in Scottsdale frequently are on a permanent mid-life crisis (for proof see how many have a big old Harley in the garage). Scottsdale residents are all color coordinated and hide in the guard gated communities that line Scottsdale and Pima Roads. Personally, aside from the amazing annual Barrett-Jackson car auction, I avoid anything northeast of Camelback mountain like the plague.
The west side of the southern half of the compass includes the huge South Mountain Park and the sprawl of Buckeye, Tolleson, and Litchfield Park. Here you will find Nascar Heaven (PIR - Phoenix International Raceway). Another place I avoid.
The east side of the southern half of the compass. Aside from ASU and Mill Street in Tempe there is simply nothing in the South East quadrant but trailers, interspersed among Mesa's lovely old citrus groves, bounded by middle class sprawl, more malls, and the high tech industry.
• Phoenix: The Highs
Despite its sprawl, I happen to love Phoenix. It is very well run, has amazing diversity, and doesn't take itself so damned seriously. Some of its highlights are:
The Arizona Biltmore and Wrigley Mansion
This is the hotel that started it all before the depression. It brought Frank Lloyd Wright to the Southwest. He was retained as a "consulting" designer instead of the architect. This commission occurred just after Wright's mistress and her children were axe murdered by a mental case domestic at his estate in Wisconsin while he was in Europe. Hence, it was too controversial for anyone to hire him as an architect at that time. So we all say the hotel was "inspired" by Wright. However, one walk through the hotel and you can see his "inspiration" everywhere. Above the Biltmore is the white fantasy Wrigley Mansion built by Mr. Wrigley as a 50 year wedding anniversary gift. Now because of the covenants on the Biltmore lands it is a private club. Keep in mind anyone can join it for a few bucks and dine there enjoying its sweeping views. Now part of Hilton's Waldorf Astoria Collection, the Biltmore's new owners recently announced plans for a $300 million dollar rehabilitiation. So the old lady will likely rejoin the Camelback Inn as queen of desert resorts.
The Phoenix Burton Barr Central Library
This is Will Bruder's masterpiece. Clad in punched copper, yet built for an incredibly low budget, it creates lofty spaces. Once the library was complete housing prices in all of the historic neighborhoods surrounding it experienced percentage price increases far higher than nearly anywhere else in the metroplex.
Downtown Phoenix is (finally) coming into its own. Twenty years ago it was a wasteland. Today Downtown and North Central Avenue are home to the new emerging University of Arizona Medical College, the new Children's Museum, Antoine Predock's startling Arizona Science Center, the Trans-Genomics Institute (T-Gen), the newly expanded Phoenix Art Museum, the historic Orpheum Theater (my favorite with its moving clouds on the ceiling), the wretched Dodge Theater (way ugly), the Herberger Theater, newly revamped Symphony Hall, the Baseball and Basketball palaces, the new Convention Center, and the amazing Heard Museum (American Indian history, art, and craft presented beautifully).
All of this is soon (December '08) to be reached by a slick new light rail system. Suburban naysayers may whine, but Downtown should now be included on anyone's visit. While there, plan to wait in line for a pizza at Pizzaria Bianco (a James Beard winner).
Here is where you find the wonderful Desert Botanical Garden and the Phoenix Zoo. If you happen to visit around Christmas fight to get ticket to Los Noches de las Luminarias. This event sells out every year, so plan accordingly. Los Noches is one of the only times each year when the garden is opened at night. During Los Noches it is filled with musicians and is illuminated solely by thousands and thousands of paper bags filled with sand and candles called luminaria.
This year (November '08 to May '09) the garden will also feature a show by the Pacific Northwest glass artist Dale Chihuly.
Hiking Piestawa Peak
Reportedly the most hiked urban trail in the US, this is the trail you take to the top of Piestawa Peak. The views from the top are amazing. I always want to strangle the people that can run up and down (as I wheeze along in my near death experience). Of course, the real hardcores think Piestawa is too easy and hike Camelback.
The Cactus League
Every year the baseball teams come back to the Valley of the Sun like swallows to Capistrano. Cactus League is always a time of perfect weather and wonderful baseball. This is where baseball's stars come back to earth. Here they are still approachable and your kids can walk up and get autographs.
• Phoenix: The Lows
Tempe Town Lake
Well, not really in Phoenix, this is not just merely the worst idea ever, it is sort of the worst of the worst. Like our fake man made "lakefront" communities, it is merely a mosquito breeding ground. This giant evaporation pond serves no morally justifiable purpose (heck, you can't even swim in it!). It does, however, illustrate one of Arizona's most progressive cities complete arrogance about water conservation in the desert. Luckily, nature always wins and the Town Lake's silly rubber blow-up dams are deteriorating faster than anticipated, so Tempe will once again have the opportunity to abandon this folly. (Update Summer 2010: Oh those big blow-up doll dams finally gave up the ghost - letting the town lake meander down the dry old salt river bed. Tempe now has a giant semi-moist town lake bed, showcasing it amazing shopping cart reef building activities. Of course the collapse has led to a heroic level of governmental finger pointing. Sadly, the bozo's in Tempe City Hall have vowed to rebuild the dams and recreate this disaster of the desert once again. I'll keep rooting for nature!)
Comparing towns like Gilbert and Chandler with their "modern - can't get anywhere without blowing gallons of gas, while chewing up acre after acre of land", city planning to the swift moving traffic in urban Phoenix with its simple compact cartesian grid streets is testament to how wrong car centric "pedestrians be damned" city planning really is. Now that gas prices are rising, we are seeing much more dense development and significant changes in planning concepts. Hopefully we will see an easing of the relentless sprawl.
The Flippin Heat
OK, lets be honest, summers in Phoenix are hell. We are the surface of the sun from June till September, stay away. That "but its a dry heat" stuff is pure bull. After 105 days of temps over 105° degrees, you just want to do something mean.
• Food and Hotels
Food: A few suggestions:
Durants (This one is old school - red flocked interior - luscious steaks and seafood)
El Bravo on 7th Street (Neighborhood hangout - slow service - sit anywhere - amazing vegetable green corn tamales & Navajo tacos)
The Barrio Cafe (Oh the housemade pomegranate guacamole!)
Lon's at the Hermosa (The most beautiful "special event" restaurant in Arizona)
Hana Sushi (A neighborhood sushi bar proving you can get terrific sushi even in the desert!)
Corbin's Bar and Grille (The neighborhood hangout in North Central, great food, huge martinis)
Bombero's Wine Bar (A focus on South and Central American wines)
Postino's (The other wine bar - yuppies on toast points)
The Vig (One of Ralph Haver's mid-century modern banks updated into a fun restaurant complete with indoor bocce ball on 16th Street)
La Grande Orange (Great market with wood fired pizza)
Hotels: My Picks
The Hermosa Inn (Old Arizona)
The Maricopa Manor B&B (Classic B&B in Central Phoenix, close to everything)
The Sanctuary on Camelback (Hip, zen, pricey)
The Pointe Hilton's (huge lazy river pools for the kids)
The Arizona Biltmore
The Camelback Inn
The Twin Palms
The Hotel Valley Ho
Any of the Mega Star Resorts
When people drive through Tucson without stopping they get the impression from Interstate 10 that Tucson is a dump. In reality Tucson is marvelous. It has a beautiful and historic barrio neighborhood, numerous terrific resorts nestled in the Catalina foothills, swimming at Sabino Canyon, the stunning San Xavier Del Bac, the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum, and the marvelous Arizona Inn.
Of all of Tucson's attractions, the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum is by far the place no one should miss. It is a botanical garden, zoo, and museum rolled into a harmonious package. In the summer they open it a few weekends at night. This is a completely magical place. I especially love the river otters and the hummingbird aviary.
Tucson has a bit more altitude and has not suffered the urban heat island quite as bad as Phoenix, so it cools down at night. It makes Tucson a much more livable city than Phoenix Metro.
Leaving Tucson we head south and east. Destination Kartchner Caverns. Although found in the seventies, the location of this seven acre cave system was concealed until a commitment was secured to preserve it as a living cave. To do this a series of airlocks and trails were installed. Since then various sections of the cave have been opened to the public for tours. With 99% humidity these caves are uniquely alive, but all that humidity makes it like a quick trip to Miami. To keep the cave healthy and living, tour groups are limited and reservations are recommended.
After visiting the caverns, our final destination is Bisbee.
You go through Tombstone on the way. Yes it is the "OK Corral" Tombstone. So stop if you'd like to take in this little relic, then keep on trucking to Bisbee.
Now, nothing really prepares you for Bisbee. You drive miles on a flat-as-a-pancake highway, then you go through a tunnel and Bam!, hanging precariously on the sides of a steep hill, is Bisbee. Bisbee is sort of like Jerome, except it never died. There are wonderful old hotels like the Copper Queen, galleries, and some pretty good restaurants (don't miss Cafe Roka).
Heck, be adventurous, rent a vintage airstream trailer for the night at the Shady Dell!
This hardly scratches the surface of my state, and I freely admit I've missed huge sections, but it hits the parts I love, and you can find the rest on your own! Come, explore and find the things you love.