Roadboy's Visit / The V&A

Arts & Theater Plus Sublime Industrial Photos

As many of my past posts confirm, the venerable Victoria and Albert Museum is one of my favorite haunts whenever I visit London.  My last visit was in 2017. 

On this trip I found many exhibits fully refreshed, and happily, many of my favorites remain wonderfully intact.

This free 170 year old museum is huge, like 12.5 acres huge. It is the largest museum in the world devoted to applied arts, decorative arts, and design. Yet despite its size, it has a remarkably curated and ever changing array of fascinating temporary exhibits. 

Currently it has an exhibit showcasing the art of men's fashion (Fashioning Masculinities), the art of Beatrix Potter and a photographic exhibition of the stunning industrial photography of Maurice Broomfield.

So here are just a few snaps of things I found interesting in my all too brief visit. PS: I'm returning in September and plan additional time to explore this wonderful museum.

 

First up the Industrial Photographs of Maurice Broomfield

The entrance features walls of vintage cameras. Seeing them it occurred to me that many (most?) visitors to the exhibit have no clue as to the elaborate technical skill that was needed to capture pre-digital photographs. Photographer's had to measure light, consider the specific characteristics and properties of the film products available, decide on flash units, and then carefully measure chemicals and timing to correctly develop the photos.

The Broomfield photos, many captured in low light or at night, demonstrate a tour de force of photographic expertise. They also immortalize the heroic skills of post WWII industrial workers in Great Britain. At the time these photo's were captured England was a country capable of building incredibly high quality ships, airplanes, automobiles, appliances and textiles. 

Whether shoes or televisions, in the 1950's and 1960's, what you bought in England was probably made in England. 

Sadly these photos essentially immortalize the demise of UK industrial capacity.

Much of the text to the exhibit includes recollections of family members as to the joy Mr. Broomfield found in his craft (which is clearly reflected in the images he captured). These images are so wonderful I've purposely loaded them extra large.

Bessemer Platform

Corby, Northhamptonshire 1957

The Bessemer Convertor was the breakthrough process that allowed for the economical mass manufacture of quality steel. It was widely used from the mod 1800's until about 1968.

The Fettler

Ford Motor Comapny Ltd. Dagenham, Essex 1953

The fettler smoothed rough edges for crankshafts going into car engines. Fettler's were paid by the piece and Broomfield commented this fettler did not appear happy about the photographic distraction.

Taper Roller Bearing

British Timken Works, Daventry, Horthhamptonshire 1957

This is my favorite image in the exhibit. The photo notes say that Broomfield sometimes asked workers to return at night in order to better control lighting. He'd bring electricians to set up specialized lighting and then underexpose his image. This image showcases his extraordinary skill. 

Tapping a Furnace

Ford, Degenham, Essex 1954

Image notes state that broomfield was awed by the skill of the workers he photographed. In this case a single figure in silhouette controls the river of molten metal used for making steel. Tapping was a process for removing impurities from the steel.

Wire Manufacture 

Somerset Wire Company, Pengam Moors, Cardiff, Wales 1964

 

Then came the Theater Arts Exhibits

With limited time this year I made a beeline to the theater arts exhibits. Here props, set models, and costumes are constantly exhibited in rotations. Last time my favorite was Dame Edna's Food Dress. This time I marveled at the tuxedo and dress worn by Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers.

Astaire's Tux From Shall We Dance

Anderson and Sheppard, Saville Row 1937

Ginger Rogers Costume From Lady in the Dark

Edith Head / Mitchell Leisen 1944

Astaire preferred Anderson and Sheppard as his tailors and always tested the seams in his suits for strength. The notes said his preference was dark blue as it photographed better in black and white.  

Ms. Roger's mink overskirt dress was designed by the amazing Edith Head. And, at $35,000 in 1944 ($697,000 adjusted to 2022 dollars), it was the most expensive costume in Hollywood history. They created two versions; one for singing and close ups, plus a lighter version for dance.

Pure Fluid Elegance

Harlequin

Albert Gilbert

I was drawn immediately to this graceful figurine. It is said to be the logo for The Production Club (not sure about that club) in 1942. In reading the text accompanying it I realized that it was created by the same artist of the exquisite Eros Sculpture in Piccadilly Circus.   

On my way to the Industrial Design Exhibit I ran through the jewelry vault. Talk about a dazzling collection of gems and precious metals.

The Vault

Jewelry and Gems 

As the museum began to announce its upcoming closure I literally ran through the industrial arts exhibit where this magnificent molded plywood chair was prominently displayed.    

Plywood Chair

Greta Jalk, Copenhagen, 1963

With the encouragement of the nearby docent I made my way to exit the museum stopping at this photo of three young Mariupol police officers. Taken 2 years ago, they stand in front of Mariupol's, now infamous, steel works in their now largely destroyed city.  

Words fail me.

Policewomen 

Mariupol 2019

V&A WWII Building Damage

After seeing the policewomen photo, I noted upon exit the walls of the museum complete with scars still evident from WWII. 

All I could think of was lyrics to War

War, huh, yeah, what is it good for? 

Absolutely nothing...

Edwin Starr 1970

 

 

Posts from Greece will soon follow.

Roadboys Travels © 2022 

Tea in London at Sketch!

What is More Perfect Than English Tea?

I am not really a tea drinker. For me I'd rather go with a good cup of java with some cream. 

But when in London you are gonna be invited to share a "cuppa". 

And, of course, the only correct answer to an offered cup of tea is an emphatic "that sounds great!"

So when my daughter suggested one of London's current hipster hangouts for taking afternoon "Tea" I sort of winced a little bit. The image of afternoon Tea for me is drinking from little cups with pinkies extended. 

But of course taking a proper English "Tea" is much more than that, it is a complete event with sweet and savory finger foods. So I figured heck lets do it.  

The locale Ms. M identified was called Sketch. I visited it's website and found it both crazy and captivating. 

She secured a reservation.

Soon after our chef friend texted saying that she'd gotten strong recommendations from family / friends to visit a restaurant in London named Sketch. Her friends also advised that a reservation made well in advance was a necessity.

Thanks to Ms. M we already had that reservation.  

It turns out Sketch is a collection of eating environments all with artistic themes. However, being a Sunday, only some of the venues were open. Tea was served in "The Gallery".

Sketch, like all "cool for the minute" places, is pricey. Tea with champagne is priced at about $110/person (although I suspect that is modest in comparison to other Sketch offerings). So enjoying Tea was a good middle ground to experience Sketch. 

 

The Full Sketch

The ground floor has a main reception and The Parlor (which actually fronts the street). Down a half flight is a second reception station for The Glade, the East Bar, and The Gallery. Up a half flight is the Lecture Room & Library. The East Bar location is accessed through The Gallery. All, the East Bar is crowned by the "Pods" (more on The Pods later).

 

 Reception Station for The Gallery, The East Bar, and The Glade

 

To the Left is The Glade 

(with its gorgeous bar)

 

 

To the Right is the Elegant "Gallery" 

Settling in for Tea

 

First Course: Caviar with Mornay  

 

I happen to be a caviar fan and this combination was just a perfect way to set taste buds on fire. We also made our initial choices for tea. For my first tea I chose Jasmine as I love how it is so beautifully aromatic. 

 

Next came The Tower.  Top rows were sweet courses. The table level tray held the savory items: Truffle Brioche. Salmon and Ricotta Sandwich, Cucumber Sandwich, Coronation Chicken (my favorite) Sandwich, and Egg Gougère. 

The sweet courses included: Pear and Ginger Cheesecake, Pineapple Marshmallows, Lemon Battenberg, Chocolate Yuzu Strawberry Entremets, Rhubarb & Strawberry Choux, and Jasmine & Raspberry Macarons. 

 

Final course (of course), was scones with Raspberry or Fig Preserves followed by desert course of  Blood Orange Sponge Cake.

The Tea Tower

 

Now lets discuss the East Bar. The East Bar is a cozy space capped by a white domed igloo. Above the domed is a sci-fi forest filled shiny white pods that feel like something directly out of an alien encounter movie. 

 

The pods are accessed by two circular stairways circling up and around the white dome. The pod space is actually Sketch's gender-free restroom. It is filled with a forest of pods and classic porcelain pedestal hand wash sinks. Each pod is a private individual toilet stall that feels like an elegant porta potty. 

Needless to say no one that comes for food or beverage at Sketch resists the chance to visit the Pods. Some (like me) also sneak some photos. Admittedly, my first time taking photos inside a public loo.     

The "Pods"

The Dome Over the East Bar

 

As we left I snapped photos of the stairway from the ground floor up to the Library with its stylized portrait of her majesty at the top. The stairs are coated with series of paint spills running from stair to stair. I suspect buckets of paint were very carefully spilled to create this staircase.

Stairs to The Library

So there is my summary of our visit to Sketch for English Tea. Who knows what will be hot next time I arrive in London, but for now, Tea at Sketch was a truly delightful way to spend a Sunday afternoon!

Next Up - Whats on at The V&A!

Roadboy's Travels © 2022

 

Roadboy Has Missed London

Mind The Gap

While nitwits blather about life "Returning to Normal" (please define "normal" anymore?) after Covid, our theme for this trip is not about returning to anything, it is about celebrating that "Life Goes On"!

 

The Back Story

My long-time (since age 13!) friend, and amazing chef, Dorothy and I have talked for years about making a trip to her beloved Greece. For her it as all about family memories. For me, Greece has always had a spot on my bucket list. 

Now, finally our planets have aligned.

Planning in earnest began more than a year ago. And trip planning these days consists of a lot of wet fingers held to the wind. First there is timing. When will countries be able to reduce Covid restrictions? When is the weather good, yet not overly crowded? 

Everything these days requires hope and a lot of luck. But perhaps, more than anything, timing this year stands firmly atop the hard work of healthcare workers and the scientists who developed a miracle vaccine.

Additional good luck came when my daughter was also able to join us (after making a publishing deadline on her newest graphic novel). 

Timing also synched with removal of UK and Greek access restrictions.

Although our destination is Greece, I suggested that our first leg be a flight from Phoenix to London. This prompts a reader's logical question "Why begin a trip to in Greece via London?"

Short answer: to support American's new non-stop Phoenix to Heathrow service and reduce our jet lag. Despite our position as fifth largest population center in the nation, the Valley of the Sun has only one other flight to Europe. We need more. 

I am happy to report the flight was smooth and punctual. American flew equipment that was spacious, modern, and clean. But, it did come with a (nearly unforgivable?) sin. On a 10 hour long-haul flight the in-flight entertainment system has to work. Period. Full Stop.

Anyway, the plan was to enjoy a few days in London and burn some jet lag before flying on to Athens. The time difference from Phoenix to London is 8 hours. From Phoenix to Greece it is 10 hours. Plus, anyone that knows me knows I need no excuse to visit the UK.

We booked a London AirBNB hosted by John and (his trusty dachsund) Biscuit. Our hosts and accommodations were perfect.

After many visits to London our itinerary was purposely loose: a little exploring, a visit to Harrod's food halls, a trip to the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A), Tea at Sketch, and hopefully a west end play. 

Happy to report all were accomplished! On the sightseeing front we began with a purchase of an Oyster card and a double decker bus ride to Trafalger Square. At TS we contemplated the fourth plinth (now adorned by Heather Phillipson's "The End"). This twisted little confection is a big dollop of whipped cream crowned with a big old cherry on top. But, as you walk around it, you note a drone and huge fly in the cream of dystopia. The End also video records all visitors. What is it with the Brits and cameras EVERYWHERE?

Choosing to ignore the intentional symbolism that will have art scholars contemplating forever, we marched on.

The End

Heather Phillipson 2020

Our walks over the days in London took us up The Mall, on to Westminster Abby and into Harrods (to introduce our chef companion the Food Halls). I was surprised to see that Harrods has spent the past four years (and $421M) upgrading the halls. The new digs are now all on the ground floor now. The newest to open is the new Chocolate Hall. While still over the top, I admit to missing Harrods venerable old basement food halls. 

Here are some photos captured on our strolls (I'll edit separate posts on our tea at Sketch and the visit to the V&A).

  The Updated Harrods Food Halls

 Caviar Anyone?

Endless Pastry Options

The West End is Back

Come From Away

Having been mesmerized by the AppleTV+ presentation of Come From Away, I knew I wanted to experience it live. So we selected it as our play to see this trip and it turned out to be a joyous celebration of human triumph over adversity. The show brought the whole house to its feet for multiple ovations. If you have not experienced this wonderful event, do it. 

Harry Potter and the Cursed Child

Clearly a lot of of production dollars went into staging the Harry Potter play! I'll put it on the "maybe next trip category". 

I always love walking The Mall and St. James Park. And it is just a leafy joy in springtime. The little whimsy garden at Duck Island is a pretty magical spot in the heart of such a bustling City. Having a place of delusion and fantasy such a short walk from number 10 Downing Street seems sort of symbiotic.

St James Park

The Elegantly Understated National Police Officer's Memorial

Having a father in law enforcement and working with many police officers over the years, I am always interested to see how valor is memorialized around the world. London's memorial is particularly good. Here a book with names of officers killed in the line of duty is displayed near a lit pylon. Pages in the book are turned each day memorializing the names of officers that perished that specific day. It is just off The Mall (you can see the horse parade grounds just beyond).

Electric Car Charging 

(located in curbside parking bollards)

Loved these electric car charging stations. So subtle and efficient. Much nicer than those awful Tesla tombstone charging stations we see in the US. Bring your own cord and top off your charge while parked.

Oligarch Row

Three cars parallel parked in a row. A Porsche in front of a Bentley, in front of a Ferrari. Across the street was perhaps the ugly stepsister to the lot; a primer black (I kid you not) Rolls Royce SUV. In my book, despite the pitiful wails of the 1%, here is conclusive proof the rich do not pay their fair share in taxes.

Roadboy's Travels © 2022