Roadboy's Birthday in Santorini

Thank You Aunt Helen!

Buckle up. The following intro is wordy, but I promise it will eventually get to the topic at hand.

Moving through life we come to intersections where our lives rub up to greatness. Of course while it is actually happening, we are frequently clueless.

My father was a wonderful man. He had a long career as a police officer. A job he loved. But, for much of my childhood he worked nights (or "dogwatch"). So he'd arrive home and go to bed right as I left for school.  That meant we didn't have a normal father / son relationship until I hit the age of about 13 when he could bid for day shifts.

So when I was young my routine was to come home from elementary school, eat dinner, chat up mom and then ask to go "next door".

It wasn't to play games or watch TV with neighbor kids. No I went to visit Mr. and Mrs. Hackshaw. They were an extraordinarily well educated, yet childless, couple. And, in retrospect, heaven knows why they put up with me. But they were so much fun to be around and Aubrey became a surrogate dad. 

Aubrey was from the West Indies and owned that elegant "Cola Nut" accent (sorry for those that have no clue). His prized possession was his big console "Hi-Fi".

Sometimes Aubrey and I would chat or play games, other times we'd just watch television. But my favorite activity was when he'd sit on the floor and deejay Harry Belafonte LP's. He'd sing and clap his hands and this (very uptight) six year old white kid would get up and dance to the Banana Boat Song or Matilda. Dancing in that clumsy way only 5 or 6 years olds can. 

DAY-O!

Alvessie cooked me plantains and made guava jelly. OMG! 

It was a turbulent time in America and when the Watt's riots hit (which confused a small kid), Alvessie took the time to gently explain what was happening in a way a small kid could understand. And, her honesty and insight frequently provided me a logical alternative to some of what I heard at home. 

Being around the Hackshaw's taught me that once you come to love people, it becomes hard to hate the "thems" of the world. Such an important lesson.

Years later I came to fully realize how respected they were in Oakland's African American Community. I also discovered that many of the guests I met walking around at their cocktail parties (me looking at kneecaps) were famous sports stars, musicians (Count Basie's Orchestra!) and at least two Presidential cabinet members.....

But that's another story.

Another intersection with greatness involved my own family. I've always adored my Aunt Helen and Uncle Ken. Like the Hackshaw's, only later in life did I fully realize the greatness of their lives. When Uncle Ken passed away last October he was the oldest living member of the NFL. In fact, although drafted by the Pittsburgh Steeler's, he opted to play his two professional NFL seasons for the brand new SF 49'ers at Kezar (think Dirty Harry). 

Mom's sister, Ken's beloved wife of 75+ years (Aunt Helen), was all business. She ran her family like a corporation. Her authoritative voice left no doubt what was going to happen as she dispensed wisdom in a completely matter-of-fact manner.

But that's also another story.

So why do I bring all this up? Well its about learning to trust greatness. 

You see during one of my chats with Aunt Helen (who had seemingly traveled everywhere) I asked her to list her favorite places on earth. Without hesitation she said French Polynesia and Santorini.

In that moment, those places took their place on my must see destinations list.

So fast forward to May 2022. After our departure from Athens our first stop (thanks to Aunt Helen) was the island caldera of Santorini.

Our AirBNB host Antonis met us at the airport where he piled all our luggage in his zippy little all electric Fiat. That allowed us to follow him to his MyBozer Twins (his two lovely AirBNB units). As there are no street signs or addresses on Santorini. Apple Maps is worthless. You have to follow someone.

Till the moment we picked our Volkswagen UP! I had never heard of one. But it became our 3 cylinder freedom machine (complete with a very forgiving clutch).

Antonis proved to be human joy with a heartbeat. He loves life, people, and his adorable adopted pit bull Bella.

He delivered a fresh tray of different warm Greek pastries to us every morning of our stay.

Good Morning from Antonis! 

Our first planned activity was a glorious evening walking tour of the hilltop town of Oía with Jean Sébastien. 

 

Jean Sébastien

We learned the history of the island along with the volcanic legacy of the crescent shaped caldera that forms Santorini and its bay.  

Oía and Fira are the islands two big towns. Both cling to the steep cliffs of the caldera. Both offer iconic guest rooms created from caves. 

Jean Sébastien, however, alerted us to the seismically unstable "Red Zone" on which some of Santorini's hotels and guest lodgings reside. 

If you plan to visit Santorini ask if your lodgings are in the red zone. If they are, stay somewhere else. The last cataclysmic earthquake was July 7, 1956 and experts believe they are due for another.  When it arrives a lot of lovely white structures will tumble down Santorini's steep cliffs into the sea.

Oía is the quiet and romantic "honeymoon" town. Fira is the boisterous party town. Happily our AirBNB was not in either. It was just down the hill from Oía nestled in some wonderfully quiet vineyards. We enjoyed views of the ocean and the donkey that arrived every morning to graze just outside our window.

Our Morning Visitor

While in Athens we asked Ms. Kochilas for some recommendations on places to eat on Santorini. Top of her list was the Sigalis Winery. Which turned out to be literally a few steps from our AirBNB.

Truly Joss!

So here are some photos of our time on Santorini.

Ms. M and the Crystal Blue Aegean Waters of the Caldera

The hilltowns of Oía and Fira are hopelessly picturesque. The white "paint" is actually a limestone slurry applied annually to seal the buildings, reflect heat, and keep mosquitos away. Some say the domes were painted blue to thumb their nose to the Ottoman occupiers as it made the whole city into a Greek Flag.

Jean Sébastien warned us to avoid Red Beach (where deadly rock slides are a high probability). He also advised against white swim attire as some beaches release sulfur leaving unfortunate swimmers with potentially embarrassing (and permanent) yellow stains.

 

There are Lots of Cats

Many Caves Come With Private Pools and Spas

Our visit included my 66th birthday. So when the day came Antonis booked lunch reservations at Fratzeskos on the beach in Perissa. The fish was caught that morning. I had a fresh grilled Scorpionfish. It was sublime. Dorothy introduced us to taramasalata (a meze made from the salted roe mixed with olive oil, lemon juice and a starchy base of bread or potatoes). It was wonderful.   

Perusing the Menu at Fratzeskos

Scorpionfish

One of the more popular activities on the island is the 7 KM ridge hike from Fira to Oía. It is well marked and offers spectacular views. Take lots of water.

Looking From Fira to Oía

Sadly our time on Santorini finally came to an end. We turned in our UP! at the airport, said our goodbyes to Antonis (and Bella) and shuttled to the port to catch a high speed SeaJets ferry for the 90 minute crossing to Heraklion Crete.

On Our Way to Crete

Thank you Aunt Helen!

Roadboy's Travels © 2022

Roadboy's Rendezvous in Athens

Sightseeing and Diane Kochilas' Taste Athens Tour 

My first visit to Athens confirmed that this city needs a much better PR team. 

Before arriving former travelers warned me Athens would be dirty. Well, compared to many cities I've visited it was actually tidy. 

They warned I would find a city choked with traffic and smog. We enjoyed glorious days with sparkling, clear skies 🙂. Traffic, who cares, we walked and took Metro.

I was counseled it is overcrowded and stiflingly hot. Well here they are probably right. Locals confirmed Athen's summers are hot and muggy. And like swallows to Capistrano the summer heat arrives with hordes of international tourists. 

So, DUH, don't go to Athens in June, July or August!

I guess I do sort of empathize a bit as I live in the blast furnace that is Phoenix Arizona in summer. But, the difference is our heat is pretty dry and coincides with tourists leaving, not arriving. So Phoenicians (acclimated to surface-of-the-sun summer temperatures) are left with a hot, yet gloriously empty, city.   

Anyway, Athens offered friendly people, great sights, amazing food, spectacular art and cultural treasures all topped off with a clean and modern subway (that provides efficient transfers from the airport to city center).

For us Athens served as sort of a travel bookend. We arrived from London, spent a couple of days sightseeing before flying to explore two Greek Islands. Then we returned to Athens for a couple of more days prior to flying home.

Here are some highlights from this first timer's visit to Athens.

So, first off, lets review a little Greek travel etiquette. Before drinking tap water verify it is safe (its a Yes in Athens and a No in Santorini and Crete). Second, be aware ancient cities have ancient plumbing. Used toilet paper does NOT get flushed down the toilet (put it only in the waste receptacle that will always be near the toilet). Finally, be nice. The Greeks we met were warm and caring. Please don't skimp on sincere smiles and learn to say thank you! "Efcharistó" (Eff Care Iss Toe). 

To begin our time in Athens my traveling companions humored my request to began with a visit to the Acropolis Museum (completed in September 2007). For this architect, this stunningly designed and engineered museum was a total geek out. 

 The Acropolis and its Nearby Neighborhoods

For those unaware, the massive Acropolis Museum is truly an engineering marvel. The whole museum sort of floats above an excavated archeological dig. In fact, the entrance is a bridge with sections of glass to afford views of the ruins below.

The Entrance to the Acropolis Museum

 

As you enter the building it offers very intuitive wayfinding that leads visitors to the center of the building and up a gentle inclined ramp presided over by 5 of the original caryatids (missing the one Lord Elgin ripped off and hauled back to London).

The Five Original Caryatids

Other treasures include an array of sculptures that demonstrate the ancient Greeks understanding of human form in contrappostos.

Female Head

(a marble copy of a gold and ivory statue from the 4th or 5th century BC. The color that streams from her eyes is a product of oxidation from the statues original bronze eyelashes)

The Blond Boy

 

One of the most treasured items in the museum is this bust entitled Blond Boy. When found its hair retained traces of yellow pigment. I found it interesting that these beautiful Greek sculptures we traditionally think of as white stone were originally painted.

As you rise in the building its direction shifts with its highest level parallel to the acropolis. The building was of international significance because of the care used in seismic engineering. It is designed to (and should) someday rightfully house the frieze of the Parthenon.

But of course the frieze currently resides in the British Museum (yep Elgin "purchased" it too). I find it hugely ironic that the frieze is now referred to as the "Elgin Marbles". Such dark humor to name them after an international crook. In my perfect world the British Museum should create and display copies of the frieze panels while returning the originals to Greece. But more on this later.

PS Egypt would appreciate their mummy's back  too.         

The next event for us was a wonderful (and tasty) stroll. My chef friend organized a tour organized by PBS's renowned host of My Greek Table, Diane Kochilas. Her 4.5 hour Athen's culinary began near Syntagma Square and led us on a blissful meander through bakeries, the bustling main central market, and cheese shops. We made lots of stops to sample local food, Greek coffee, and wine.

Our tour guide was Lida who was an effervescent source of information and warmth. Our group was lucky enough to be joined by Ms. Kochilas herself for a couple of hours. She walked with us answering questions and also joined us for coffee (cooked in hot sand). I enjoyed her insights. She and Lida also gave us great recommendations on places to eat on Santorini and Crete.

First Stop A Multi-Generationally Owned Bakery 

 

A Coffee and Plant Shop

In This Cafe The Barista Crafts Drinks Among the Customers

The Fresh Seafood was Dazzling in Athen's Central Market

While passing a cafe the owner came bursting out to chat up Ms. Kochilas. So we all were invited in to see their specialty (soups). They had an extensive brag wall filled with photos from Guy Fieri to Anthony Bourdain (and among them was a photo of Diane). 

Our next stop was a break to enjoy some classically brewed Greek Coffee.

Coffee Warmed in Hot Sand

The coffee led to a session of fortune telling by reading the coffee grounds. So much family tradition is found in every facet of Greek cooking.

Reading Our Fortune

We finished off the tour in a lovely little wine bar where we all sat at the bar sampling a variety of Greek wines (whites). It was such a great way to spend a lovely spring day in Athens.

The next day was spent in transit to Santorini where we would meet Antonis our amazing AirBNB host met us at the airport. But I'll cover that in the next Post. 

After spending the next 10 days on Santorini and Crete we returned to Athens for our last couple of days in Greece before returning home. 

First up on my agenda was to eat a great breakfast (eggs scrambled with feta, fresh fruit, coffee, toast and some Greek yogurt drizzled with honey). 

Now it was time to climb the Acropolis. 

Although the climb appears daunting it is actually a glorious walk through history. The trail is gentle and passes two theaters before reaching the Temple of Athena Nike and the Propylaia. There is a glass elevator for those that need it.

Just be very careful as the steps, worn smooth by millions of tourists, are slippery even when dry. After a rain, damn!

Now I know it sounds absurd. But wear good shoes. We actually saw visitors wearing high heals. No synapses firing there.

  Soooo Slippery

Once you clear the Propylaia the view of the Parthenon is breathtaking. This is the building whose architects and engineers considered proportions to be everything. It delivered slightly inclined doric columns and added a slight curvature to the pediment to make it appear flat. 

The building is currently scaffolded to enable repairs from some ill advised prior restoration efforts.

Imagine how beautiful the building would be if so many successive insults to it had been avoided. First there was the destruction of its (nude) sculptures by the Christians seeking to convert it into a Christian church.

Then the Ottoman Turks used the Parthenon as an ammo dump (what could go wrong?). That answer came explosively in 1687 when Venetian invaders knew right where to send their bombs to destroy the Turk's armory. 

The final insult came in 1801 when Lord Elgin's workers arrived to hack away at the pediment to remove the last remaining intact frieze panels for transport back to London. He displayed them as a curiosity until the British Government purchased them for installation in The British Museum. The museum asserts they were stolen fair and square and will never be returned. Kind of smacks of the Galerie Belvedere's unwillingness to return art the Nazi's stole from Viennese Jews in WWII. 

I think the Greeks should buy Stonehenge from the Scots. Who cares if the Scots don't actually own it? After all Elgin "bought" the marbles from occupying Turks who had no legitimate claim to the Parthenon. 

Stonehenge might look good on Crete? It might last longer out of the rain too.

The Parthenon

After our visit we enjoyed lunch at a restaurant recommended by Lida. I had risotto with wild mushrooms followed by a desert of poached pears with pistachio ice cream. Color me happy.

Our return to the AirBNB was hastened by some huge raindrops ushering in a wild overnight storm.

The Illuminated Acropolis

Next post will be Santorini.

Roadboy's Travels © 2022