So Many Choices
Accommodation Type:
Crete is huge and offers visitors everything from beachfront 5-Star resorts to modest hideaway cottages. There are luxe homes and condos with private swimming pools in every setting. We chose an AirBNB close to the beach without a pool. We figured in May a pool would likely be chilly and we'd be able to walk to the beach.
Our choice of accommodation came with an amazing AirBNB host (Maria). She met us and personally led us to her large modern, immaculate, ocean view apartment.
Maria had her mom's warm olive oil cake waiting for us. Our chef traveling companion rather magnificently showcases the food from our trip (including a recipe for the olive oil cake) on her website: Dorothy Eats! (also on her website is information on her many cookbooks including her latest featuring Middle Eastern recipes).
Accommodation Location:
Again, lots of choices on the island to make your home base. Most visitors choose Chania or Rethymno.
Maria's AirBNB at Rethymno Beach was perfectly located between Crete's two largest city's Heraklion (where most tourists arrive) and Chania. Heraklion bustles with industry, culture, and history. Chania charms with a lively old town and picturesque horseshoe shaped port.
Ms. M / Sunset at Rethymno Beach
Rethymno is perfectly positioned in between Heraklion and Chania and is delightfully less crowded than both. Yet, it features lovely beaches, great food, a stunning old town, and a harbor complete with a pristine Venetian lighthouse. To me, Rethymno felt instantly comfy.
Experiences / Activities / Food:
Crete offers a huge selection of sights and activities. There are caves and gorges to hike, spectacular beaches, terrain for cycling, museums, archeological sights, and (of course) glorious food. Crete is one of the largest islands in the Mediterranean and I was surprised to see snowcapped mountains when we arrived in May.
Our first day on Crete was a catch up day. We washed clothes, shopped for groceries, walked on the close-by beach, ate in a local cafe, and reveled in baked goods from the (wonderful) nearby Giampous Bakery.
Rustic Breads and Treats from Giampous Bakery
Maria became our unofficial tour guide and best friend on Crete. She checked in on us throughout the week sharing "locals only" recommendations for food, shopping and scenery. Between Antonis on Santorini and Maria on Crete, we felt like returning family.
Day Two for me began with cycling I'd arranged with Joyride Cycle. Although I booked a "recreational" skill tour, when I arrived Manos (JoyRide's Owner) gave me a quick appraisal and added me to a tour he was setting up for two (intimidatingly) fit Germans in full cycle gear.
It was clear the tour would be a bit challenging for an overweight, arthritic 66 year old guy (even riding one of Manos' superb mountain E-bikes).
We pedaled about 4-hours quickly rising 2,000' from sea level. But, there was no way I was going to back down.
Manos' route cruised us through single track trails, back roads, and archeological digs. We dodged farm dogs, splashed across streams and bounced through nice rock gardens.
It was bliss.
Manos was a total pro stopping to offer great technical riding pointers: Proper grip, effective braking, and how to pick a line. I came away a sore but better cyclist.
I even got a high five from the Germans at the end. I'm afraid the ride required all the focus this old guy could possibly muster, I had no time to snap photos.
That afternoon / evening was spent sightseeing Rethymno's Old Town. It is filled with lots of lovely little streets that eventually lead to a beautiful harbor. Some of the specialty shops were exceptional. I particularly loved Spantis' Handmade Leathergoods. And, after my ride, I felt guilt-free buying some of my beloved Greek jelly candy.
Fresh Brewed Coffee and Warm Loukoumades (Greek Doughnuts)
Old town is bordered by Rethymno's ancient fortress (where a wedding was underway).
A Bride and Groom Ascending the Fortress
Dinner was served at Ali Vafi's Garden (a
perfect recommendation by Maria). The large internal courtyard garden was once part of a home housing the Venetian Cavalry. The menu was eclectic with a decidedly Middle Eastern flair. I had their "Crispy Chicken". I have no idea what was in the seasonings, but it was truly crispy and it was truly wonderful.
Ali Vafi's Crispy Chicken
After dinner, as the sun was beginning to set, we walked back to the harbor with a stop along the way for some fresh goats milk gelato. At the harbor Rethymno's graceful Venetian lighthouse presided over glass smooth water.
Seemed like a perfect end to a great day.
Minoan Dolphin Fresco
Processional Figure Carrying a Rhyton
Many of the figures were posed with steeply arched backs which is believed to be a symbol of respect. The Rhytons were essentially chalices with holes at the base. They were used to hold libations and blood from the animals used for sacrifices.
Sculpture Gallery at the Heraklion Archeological Museum
After a day of history we spent the next day just exploring and sightseeing. Much of our day was spent traversing through mountain passes to the other side of the island to visit to Crete's famous pink sand Elfonisi Beach. With perfect temperatures and a light breeze it was a perfect day to be at waters edge watching parasailing and visitor's instagramming their every move.
Elfonisi Beach
That day was capped with a dinner in
Chania at a restaurant Dorothy remembered from previous visits. Chania is where much of her family is from so the city offers lots of fond memories. It was full of visitors enjoying the cafe's lining its harbor.
Harborside Dining in Chania
Sadly my little 3 cylinder rental Peugeot on Crete lacked the forgiving clutch of our VW UP! from Santorini. So the long day of driving was more of a challenge. But who can complain? The week long rental was under $200 and the car sipped gas (perfect in a place where gas costs were well over $10 / gallon).
It was now time to pack, say our goodbyes to Maria and return to the airport for our flight back to return to Athens.
Flying off to Athens
This was a spectacular trip. The weather was beautiful. The scenery and food were wonderful. Rich history is everywhere.
Avtio / Farewell Greece!
Roadboy's Travels © 2022
