History, Architecture, Democracy, and a Wee Dram of Whiskey!
Last year when my biking buddies and I assessed biking options in 2025 we opted for a week of cycling in the Swiss and French Alps.
However, flying across the world for just a week's adventure IMHO is kind of morally unethical and biologically nuts.
These trips consume massive amounts of non-renewable energy and, when too short, result in travel experiences compromised by jet lag. So I try to add my own additional sightseeing activities before a cycling adventure. I'd like to be over jet lag when I get on a bicycle.
And, when possible, I seek out interesting places where I've never been before and/or really could benefit from my travel dollars.
Conversely in a world increasingly embracing levels of authoritarianism not seen since Hitler, my travel options diminish each year. I'd love to visit Istanbul, China, St. Petersburg, or Budapest. But I no longer believe they are safe for me. My whole life I've leaned into my fears and visited places that were a bit sketchy, but as I age I believe nations that abandon the rule of law and seek to vilify and isolate vulnerable population groups for persecution is no longer worthy of my travel dollars. This is precisely the same reason given by foreign visitors now avoiding the US.
So, this year I opted for a first visit to Scotland. I have family roots there, I knew the temps would be relatively cool and it is a place that clearly cherishes democracy.
So I recently boarded flights from Phoenix to Scotland via Philadelphia. The entire trip went very smoothly delivering me into Edinburgh just after sunrise the next day. During our week in this cool green city we had grey days, a little rain, all balanced by some gloriously sunny days.
It was perfect.
Travel in Edinburgh is easy and efficient. We found well coordinated public transport with trams, trains, and buses. And the historic city is compact and wonderfully walkable.
Our week consisted of an easy flow of sightseeing, cycling, eating well, and just kind of knocking around. Some Highlights:
• Tartan Bike Tours: Sky to Sea Cycling Tour
A half day of fully exploring Edinburgh Traveling along canals, rail to trail tunnels, up mountains and through parks. The guide was exceptional. He safely maneuvered us around while providing a locals only perspective on what it is like to live in Scotland's capital city. The tour was more than a bike tour, it gave us a wonderful initial overview of an amazing city.
• A Concert at The Usher Hall
Edinburgh's gem of a theater played host to Bonnie Raitt during our visit. We were lucky enough to secure some of the last available tickets in the infamous nosebleed area.
I've seen Bonnie Raitt twice before (the last time accompanied by Muddy Waters about 50 years ago in Spokane Washington).
Now, 75, Ms. Raitt and her band presented a tight energetic set that resulted in multiple standing ovations. I'm delighted to say she has lost none of her power, skills, or charm. It was such a great show to see in a such a history rch venue.
Bonnie Raitt at The Usher Hall
• The (New) Scottish Parliament
In a city awash in historic architecture the Scots built a truly magnificent "new" legislative building two decades ago.
It was controversial from the start. It cost a lot more than it was supposed to and it took a lot longer to build than it was supposed to. Yet, the result is a true treasure. And I predict like all architectural masterworks, it will enjoy the benefits of outliving it's naysayers.
The building, designed by Spanish architect Enric Miralles, is very compact, accessible, and welcoming. Sadly he passed away before seeing its completion.
While there we watched the parliament discuss healthcare.
It was inspiring to hear government officials discussing a national obligation for every citizen to access quality healthcare. While in my own country, the world's richest, our current government openly seeks to deny coverage to all but the wealthiest of its citizens.
It was an interesting and perhaps ironic to see the EU flag flying in front of the building, despite Scotland still being a member of the UK.
Clearly Scotland's UK days post BREXIT are numbered.
• The Scottish National Gallery
Although compact and a bit tattered, the Scottish National Gallery contains some dazzling pieces of art and is (amazingly) free to visit.
It houses masterworks by Leonardo Da Vinci, Bernini, Rembrandt, El Greco, and some of the most famous of European masters.
I was also happy to see a wonderful portrait by John Singer Sargent.
Well worth some time and a great option for a rainy day.
The Scottish National Gallery
Three Tahitians
(Paul Gauguin 1899)
An Allegory
(El Greco - about 1590)
Reverend Robert Walker Skating on Duddingston Loch
(Sir Henry Raeburn - about 1795)
The Thistle Chapel
• Edinburgh Castle
A UNESCO heritage site, Edinburgh castle is the prominent structure towering above Edinburgh. It holds Scotland's crown jewels, celebrates war heroes, remains home to home to St. Margaret's tiny chapel (Scotland's oldest building), and houses the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards. If you plan to tour in summer book well in advance.
Edinburgh Castle
William Wallace Window in St. Margaret's Chapel
A very tiny space with so much history it could fill volumes. It did prompt me to research William Wallace and learn that the name "Braveheart" actually belonged to Robert the Bruce.
Quelle surprise Hollywood took some very big liberties with the story.
The Refectory
• Johnnie Walker Princes Street
Our totally kitsch stop was the "Tour" at Johnny Walker's Princes Street. The "Flavors" tour we took was polished and does include three drinks. But it seemed a bit too "Disney".
I'll stick to my Jameson.
Johnny Walker Strides Confidently on Princes Street
After a week in this beautiful city, I can proudly say I made the whole trip and still carefully avoided haggis.
Roadboy's Travels © 2025
