Monday, October 8, 2018

Paris' Architecture Museum

La Cité de L'Architecture et du Patrimoine

As the throngs of tourists crowd the Trocadero for arguably Paris' best view of the Eiffel Tower, many fail to notice the various museums and aquarium that comprise the site. 

Naturally the museum of interest to me was the architecture museum: La Cité de L'Architecure et du Patrimoine. This museum is dedicated to illustrating the lives and work of many of France's most renowned architects past and present as well as presenting accurate copies of art and stonework from major architecture in France. 

The Copies Gallery

 
Detail Work Rarely Seen Up Close

The building is gloriously uncrowded with a number of students parked here and there completing various sketching projects. I enjoyed the whole building with a particular emphasis on the presentation of architecture for world's Exhibitions and the various models. 

Gallery of Architectural Models

One model I found really striking was of the Decre department store built in 1931 in Nantes. The Decre model conveys the vigor of a cutting edge design lost to history.

Landmark Decre Store Nantes 1931

When the striking seven story glass and steel Decre building was completed it was considered the most important store in Europe. It included two restaurants, a terrace, a 300 seat cinema, hair salon, post office and even a puppet theater. 

However, it would survive only 12 years before its total destruction in the bombings of World War II.

I have to admit feeling old seeing the essential tools I learned to use as an architect being presented as historical artifacts.


Before Computers
I also really enjoyed the exhibit showcasing Le Corbusier's 1947 Unité d'Habitation built in Marseilles (also referred to as the Cité Radieuse (Radiant City) or the Marseille Block). 

The Unité design was based on concepts developed by the architect in the 1920's, but it was the demand for housing during reconstruction after World War II that finally resulted in the chance to test his ideas.  

Le Corbusier argued that big vertical buildings could preserve open space by floating above preserved large green open areas. The building was to be a large grid structure where modular living units could be slid into the grid. Hallways skipped floors allowing living spaces to extend from one side of the building to the other and utilize space that otherwise would be surrendered by long corridors bisecting the building. 

Building using modular construction resulted in units with uncomfortably narrow proportions. By post war standards the units were generously sized. By today's standards they feel small.

The main idea behind the highrise and dense vertical design was Le Corbusier's contention that it was better to build higher densities and preserve open space.

 The Land Consumed By Low Rise Housing Built in Traditional Densities

The Land Left As Open Space by Le Corbusier's Unité

Le Corbusier's Unité 

Le Corbusier planned each of the large structures to be elevated above the ground plane to allow open space to flow under the building. He envisioned the building as a total community with shopping and services all contained within the buildings. Even rooftops were used as community parks.

The Museum included a full size mock-up of one of the larger living units that you could freely walk through and explore as if it you were visiting someone's Unité unit. 

Apartment Entrance

Units Were Strikingly Contemporary   

 All Space Flowed Together
(A Complete Departure From Typical Design of the Era with Lots of Small Individual Rooms. The Loft Master Bedroom Allow for borrowed Views and Higher Living Room Ceilings)

Carefully Crafted Stairs Leading to Bedrooms Above
(Repetition Meant High Attention to Design Details)

Modular Sizing Resulted in Very Narrow Children's Bedrooms 

The desire to create affordable, well designed and hygenic living space for average income families has always been a quest for the worlds most creative architects. 

Today living units in the Unité, although over 70 years old and small by today's standards, are still in high demand.

From the Museum I decided to visit the Galleries Lafayette Food Hall for lunch. The various stalls display meat, produce, spices and pastry at the level of art. It seemed somehow appropriate after a morning spent examining design.


Pastry as Art

Roadboy's Travels © 2018  
  

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