Cycling Cape Cod / Martha's Vineyard - by VBT

Days 3-6

After docking in Oak Bluffs we walked over to take a peek at the "Flying Horses" (the nation's oldest operating carousel). It is primitive and tiny, but it still brings smiles to kids (and adults) and it gives riders the opportunity to grab a ring. The ring grab reminded me of all my childhood rides on the Looff Carousel at the Santa Cruz Beach and Boardwalk. According to the Santa Cruz Boardwalk website there now are only 20 carousels remaining in the US where you can grab a brass ring.

The VBT Van Transported our Bikes and Gear

We all found places to get lunch and then collected our bikes for a quick ride to circle Oak Bluff's 1800's era Methodist Camp with its open air Iron Tabernacle surrounded by tight rows of colorful little gingerbread summer cottages.

The first thing we noted was how crowded the island was with an onslaught of summer tourists. Chatham had lots of summer visitors too, but felt somehow more comfortable. Martha's Vineyard (Edgartown) felt overrun. In an era of Covid the island's buses and restaurants were far too overcrowded for this little buckaroo. But luckily the island offers lots of trails and interesting places to explore away from all the crowds.  

 

The Flying Horses of Oak Bluff

Oak Bluff's Church Camp "Gingerbread" Houses

With the sun darting in and out from the clouds we began our 14 mile beach ride from OK Bluffs to Edgartown and our new accommodations the winderful Harbor View Hotel. For those interested there was a detour along the way to ride the ferry to Chappaquiddick Island.

VBT's plans for us on Martha's Vineyard had us circumnavigate the celebrated 23 mile long, 9 mile wide island from almost every direction.

Of course my first question was "where's the vineyard?". Well there is no vineyard, there never was a vineyard on Martha's Vineyard. Go figure.

Upon arriving at the hotel we found an oasis of quiet with a harbor view. Rooms were perfectly appointed. My favorite little detail was filtered fizzy drinking water next to the ice machines. 

I've come across a number of hotels offering cruiser bikes to loan, but this hotel offered (I am not making this up) is the first to offer a fleet of brand new complementary Mercedes Benz sedans for guests to "check out" for up to 3 hours. 

 

The Pool Area at the Harborview

We were booked in as part of a group tour, so I couldn't help but look up the right now Harbor View room tariffs and was gobsmacked to see the "Hotwire®" rate for the Harbor View was $1595 / night during our stay. So I guess Mercedes Benz figures that an average guest here is their target buyer.

Wow

Day 4

After a great breakfast we gathered for our route review and discovered a ride designed to tickle the heart of anyone that loves art and good food.  

 Morning Route Review on the Porch

We soon pedaled off with stops at a glass blowing studio, sculpture gardens and the amazing Granary Gallery (where I was mesmerized by the classic photographic images of Alfred Eisenstaedt). 

 

Glass Blowing 

The route was a mixed bag of canopy trees, open pastures, beautifuul stone walls and canopy trails offering a nice diversity in scenery.

An Inquisitive Bovine

 

Island Canopied Trails

Lunch was at the Grey Barn and Farm home to a large bakery and artisan dairy. Our picnic included a big selection of meats and the farms own cheeses.

 

Our Picnic

 

The 28 mile ride completed at Bad Martha's micro-brew where I enjoyed a deep rich dark Turkish Coffee Porter. On the island everything is "Martha", Bad Martha, Sad Martha, Mad Martha.....

 

Bad Martha Beckons

 

After a suitable period of time to absorb our brews, we climbed aboard our bikes and pedaled on to the hotel. 

 

Lots of folks then went looking for restaurants. But as I walked through Edgartown too many of its restaurants were packed cheek by jowl, so I vectored off and found a great dive taco bar and scored some pretty excellent tacos. 

 

Day 5

Our last full day of riding featured a 41 mile ride the Aquinnah Cliffs and Lighthouse. This ride began in mists and featured some fine coastal riding all leading to a ferry that only shuttles bicycles (my kind of ferry boat!)

 

Nearing the Aquinnah Cliffs

 

The historic cliffs at Gay Head have been restored to their original Indian name "Aquinnah". The cliffs are watched over by a stately restored brick lighthouse (another lighthouse that has been moved to its present location due to cliff erosion. 

 

We found views of the beautiful cliffs shrouded in fog.   

 

The Cliffs

 

The Aquinnah (formerly Gay Head) Lighthouse
 

Our ride had us retrace our ride back to the bike ferry and then lunch at the Menemsha Harbor where many of us enjoyed hearty lobster rolls (with extra butter 😋).  For those of us old enough to remember it, Menemsha was the filming location for the movie Jaws.

 

Today's Special at the Menemsha Fish Market

Lunch on the Menemsha Docks

My Lobster Roll

We returned to the hotel to get dressed for our farewell dinner. As always it was a perfect sharing event with new friends trading photos and enjoying a great halibut dinner.

 

Day 6 - Farewell

Well after our farewell dinner most of us spent the rest of the evening getting packed up for the journey home. In the morning we rose to eat breakfast and some opted for a short morning ride and then boarded buses back to the Woods Hole ferry and shuttles back to Boston's Logan Airport.

 

In sum, this trip was a lot of fun especially for a newbie to the Cape.

 

Roadboy's Travels © 2021

Cycling Cape Cod by VBT

Days 1-2 Chatham

In all my years of travel, I'd never been to Cape Cod or Martha's Vineyard. So when my bike buddies decided to make it a cycling destination this year, I was all in. 

Spoiler alert, I really loved it. 

Whether it was the morning mists over the water, the incredible courtesy shown to cyclists by local drivers, our amazing hotels, or the food, I was smitten.

 

There is a Timeless Allure to Cape Cod

Getting from Boston to the Cape however was not to occur without tribulation. The tour was to provide us a direct shuttle, but in researching how to get there without a rental car I came to realize it takes some real perseverance and logistical skill.

So Sunday morning our fellow cycle tourists all started to assemble at the designated Logan Airport shuttle stop. It was a nice chance to meet each other and chat. 

Well it was nice until it became clear that no shuttle was coming.

That realization came after standing (sweating) next to piles of luggage for two very hot hours. 

Next came the realization that Vermont Bike Tours omits any contact information allowing a guest to seek help when stranded on a weekend. VBT's phone banks in Williston are closed on weekends and the only link they include in our handbook is for the travel insurance provider (to assist travelers with missed flight connections).  

But, our group consisted of insistent and veteran travelers. No shrinking violets here. And the flurry (and fury) of calling began in earnest. 

We called the hotel. 

We called the insurance carrier. 

We called pretty much anyone we could think of. 

Eventually contact was made with guides at the hotel and a shuttle was ordered. 

Note to VBT, the oversight in providing guide names and contact data resulted in the crappiest possible way of starting a vacation. 

I am willing to give VBT one "accident forgiveness pass" however, as this, my seventh VBT tour, was the first where they left travelers without recourse. 

The much delayed shuttle finally delivered us to the lovely Chatham Bars Inn where we met our guides Jason and Tøril who had been busy adapting plans. They quickly set about fitting us to our bikes.

 Hydrangeas Were Blazing at the Chatham Bars

A Classic Coastal Resort

After the bike fitting a few tired riders went off to nap, a few went sightseeing and a few ventured out for the seven mile warm-up ride. I was one of the warm-up riders and was so glad I did. The ride was a sunny little ramble past still coves filled with anchored sailboats, lighthouses, and elegant summer "cottages". It finished with a ride down Chatham's picturesque main street.

Sunset: The Warmup Ride 

Now it was time for a welcome dinner and a good night sleep. Cycling was to begin in earnest Monday morning. 

We mounted our bikes on a misty Monday morning setting out for a doozy of a fifty seven mile ride. But, as we pedaled it began to sprinkle, then came full on rain. Then the rain came even down harder. Then the heavens simply opened. 

We were soaked to the bone. 

The positive side was we still had great green scenery and our rail to trail cycle trail was empty.   

A Tunnel Offered Our Only Respite From the Rain

Stops along the way included the recently reopened Cape Cod National Seashore Salt Pond Interpretive Center and the iconic Nauset Light (immortalized on every bag of Cape Cod potato chips and on state commemorative license plates).

 

The Nauset Light

 

The Nauset Light on Every Package of Chips 

The Nauset Light(house) is a red and white 1925 steel and brick surround built over the 1877 Chatham Light Tower. 

It replaced the three sisters (three small wooden lighthouses that used to reside in the same location). An adjoining oil house stored the fuel used to power and rotate the beacon. The original fresnal lens is now on display at the Salt Pond Visitor Center after being replaced in 1981 with aerobeacons.

By the 1990's the Coast Guard set about to decommission the Nauset Light as it was 50' from toppling down a 70' cliff due to erosion. 

At this point a private organization was formed to move the 48' Light 330 feet west. Ownership of the light was then transferred in 1997 to the National Park Service and the light now operates as a private aid to navigation.

Surprisingly, after many in the group opted to take the shuttle back to the hotel, those that rode the 28 mile return enjoyed clearing skies and a really nice ride.  

We explored Chatham that evening finding respective dinner spots. I indulged in a warm bowl of clam chowder and a huge Irish coffee. Kind of a perfect night in my book. 

Back in the room we all started the process to drying cycle gear (particularly our shoes) with room hair dryers. I then slept like a pup.

In the morning we assembled for a (very punctual) shuttle to the ferry to Oak Bluffs on Martha's Vineyard.  

 

Vaxed, Masked, and Ready to Sail for Oak Bluffs

The crossing to Oak Bluff was short and we all set off to have lunch and stretch a bit. Then it was time to collect our bikes and begin exploration of the Island. 

Next Post: Martha's Vineyard.

Roadboy's Travels © 2021