Cycling Cape Cod / Martha's Vineyard - by VBT

Days 3-6

After docking in Oak Bluffs we walked over to take a peek at the "Flying Horses" (the nation's oldest operating carousel). It is primitive and tiny, but it still brings smiles to kids (and adults) and it gives riders the opportunity to grab a ring. The ring grab reminded me of all my childhood rides on the Looff Carousel at the Santa Cruz Beach and Boardwalk. According to the Santa Cruz Boardwalk website there now are only 20 carousels remaining in the US where you can grab a brass ring.

The VBT Van Transported our Bikes and Gear

We all found places to get lunch and then collected our bikes for a quick ride to circle Oak Bluff's 1800's era Methodist Camp with its open air Iron Tabernacle surrounded by tight rows of colorful little gingerbread summer cottages.

The first thing we noted was how crowded the island was with an onslaught of summer tourists. Chatham had lots of summer visitors too, but felt somehow more comfortable. Martha's Vineyard (Edgartown) felt overrun. In an era of Covid the island's buses and restaurants were far too overcrowded for this little buckaroo. But luckily the island offers lots of trails and interesting places to explore away from all the crowds.  

 

The Flying Horses of Oak Bluff

Oak Bluff's Church Camp "Gingerbread" Houses

With the sun darting in and out from the clouds we began our 14 mile beach ride from OK Bluffs to Edgartown and our new accommodations the winderful Harbor View Hotel. For those interested there was a detour along the way to ride the ferry to Chappaquiddick Island.

VBT's plans for us on Martha's Vineyard had us circumnavigate the celebrated 23 mile long, 9 mile wide island from almost every direction.

Of course my first question was "where's the vineyard?". Well there is no vineyard, there never was a vineyard on Martha's Vineyard. Go figure.

Upon arriving at the hotel we found an oasis of quiet with a harbor view. Rooms were perfectly appointed. My favorite little detail was filtered fizzy drinking water next to the ice machines. 

I've come across a number of hotels offering cruiser bikes to loan, but this hotel offered (I am not making this up) is the first to offer a fleet of brand new complementary Mercedes Benz sedans for guests to "check out" for up to 3 hours. 

 

The Pool Area at the Harborview

We were booked in as part of a group tour, so I couldn't help but look up the right now Harbor View room tariffs and was gobsmacked to see the "Hotwire®" rate for the Harbor View was $1595 / night during our stay. So I guess Mercedes Benz figures that an average guest here is their target buyer.

Wow

Day 4

After a great breakfast we gathered for our route review and discovered a ride designed to tickle the heart of anyone that loves art and good food.  

 Morning Route Review on the Porch

We soon pedaled off with stops at a glass blowing studio, sculpture gardens and the amazing Granary Gallery (where I was mesmerized by the classic photographic images of Alfred Eisenstaedt). 

 

Glass Blowing 

The route was a mixed bag of canopy trees, open pastures, beautifuul stone walls and canopy trails offering a nice diversity in scenery.

An Inquisitive Bovine

 

Island Canopied Trails

Lunch was at the Grey Barn and Farm home to a large bakery and artisan dairy. Our picnic included a big selection of meats and the farms own cheeses.

 

Our Picnic

 

The 28 mile ride completed at Bad Martha's micro-brew where I enjoyed a deep rich dark Turkish Coffee Porter. On the island everything is "Martha", Bad Martha, Sad Martha, Mad Martha.....

 

Bad Martha Beckons

 

After a suitable period of time to absorb our brews, we climbed aboard our bikes and pedaled on to the hotel. 

 

Lots of folks then went looking for restaurants. But as I walked through Edgartown too many of its restaurants were packed cheek by jowl, so I vectored off and found a great dive taco bar and scored some pretty excellent tacos. 

 

Day 5

Our last full day of riding featured a 41 mile ride the Aquinnah Cliffs and Lighthouse. This ride began in mists and featured some fine coastal riding all leading to a ferry that only shuttles bicycles (my kind of ferry boat!)

 

Nearing the Aquinnah Cliffs

 

The historic cliffs at Gay Head have been restored to their original Indian name "Aquinnah". The cliffs are watched over by a stately restored brick lighthouse (another lighthouse that has been moved to its present location due to cliff erosion. 

 

We found views of the beautiful cliffs shrouded in fog.   

 

The Cliffs

 

The Aquinnah (formerly Gay Head) Lighthouse
 

Our ride had us retrace our ride back to the bike ferry and then lunch at the Menemsha Harbor where many of us enjoyed hearty lobster rolls (with extra butter 😋).  For those of us old enough to remember it, Menemsha was the filming location for the movie Jaws.

 

Today's Special at the Menemsha Fish Market

Lunch on the Menemsha Docks

My Lobster Roll

We returned to the hotel to get dressed for our farewell dinner. As always it was a perfect sharing event with new friends trading photos and enjoying a great halibut dinner.

 

Day 6 - Farewell

Well after our farewell dinner most of us spent the rest of the evening getting packed up for the journey home. In the morning we rose to eat breakfast and some opted for a short morning ride and then boarded buses back to the Woods Hole ferry and shuttles back to Boston's Logan Airport.

 

In sum, this trip was a lot of fun especially for a newbie to the Cape.

 

Roadboy's Travels © 2021