The second chapter of Roadboy's trip to South Africa began with a 6-hour shuttle from Franschoek's pristine vineyards to the interior of the nation. Specifically, the semi-arid desert know as the Little Karoo desert.
Upon arrival we came to discover that this region is famous for its many ostrich farms. In fact, we now know that the South Africa is the largest supplier of ostrich meat, leather, and feathers in the world. Our accommodations in Oudtshoorn was the La Plume Guesthouse. The guesthouse was part of a family owned ostrich farm.
Welcome to The Little Karoo
Spending a Few Nights Living With the Magnificent Struthio Camelus
So, what did we learn? Well, despite being the world's biggest birds, ostrich's are also the fastest two legged creatures on earth. They can reach speeds of nearly 40 mph and can maintain those speeds for as much as 20 minutes. Ostrich's are truly dinosaurs with ostrich skeletal remains uncovered dating back 10 million years. The ostrich is related to the Emu (Australia) and the Kiwi (New Zealand).
After a great nights sleep in the country, we enjoyed a big farm breakfast and set off to De Rust to collect our bikes an cycle through the gorge formed between the Cape Fold Mountains. The gorge was a perfect place to ride. Very little traffic and many scenic bridges. The trip included a stop at the Meiringspoort Waterfall to swim.
The next morning we shuttled to the see the Indian Ocean and begin cycling South Africa's Garden Route. Biking included a long descent into Knysna's Lagoon. Dinner was at the home of a local family who specialize in vegan dining.
The following morning we cycled to the Robberg Preserve where we hiked the peninsula trail. The weather was turbulent threatening rain. The group assembled for a photo opportunity before cycling to lunch in Plettenburg where we could watch the surfers.
The Robberg Nature Preserve
The final day of riding was spectacular. We were taken to an abandoned hillside road that meandered clung to the side of a mountain to Bloukrans Pass. This trail was covered on both side by lush jungle. Here I found myself riding solo for miles admiring the scenery and solitude.
Then just in front of me emerged a very large baboon. Knowing baboon's can easily crush human bones I stopped and admired the creature at as much distance as possible. Not sure why but I found myself saying "well aren't you amazing?" and with that the baboon disappeared into the dense foliage on the other side of the trail and my pulse rate slowly began to return to normal.
Here is a photo our group took on another leg of the trip where we encountered baboons (at a much safer distance) along the way. I can tell you they look much larger when they are standing directly in front of your bike.
Baboon Encounter Earlier in the Trip
From there I eventually met up with the group and we finished the day cycling to the ocean at Tsitsikamma National Park. Here we enjoyed the roar of the ocean and a hike to the mouth of the Storms River.
Tsitsikamma National Park
That evening ws enjoyed our final farewell dinner followed by a full nights sleep.
The next morning we shuttled to the airport in George where the biking tour officially ended. We traveled on our own to Johannesburg and overnights in a airport hotel before boarding a short flight to the little airport in Skukusa for a visit to Kruger National Park.
The Baggage Claim at Skakuza's Lovely Little Airport
At the baggage claim of Skakuza's Airport we were met by our guide from the Kruger Shalati Resort. She loaded our belongings into a safari jeep and we departed for the hotel. Within just a few feet a family of giraffes crossed in front of the jeep. The spontaneity in seeing the first wildlife confirmed the next few days would be very special.
The First Giraffes
(A sighting just passing out of gates of the Skakuza's Airport)
We selected the Kruger Shalati because I'd seen it portrayed in an architectural magazine. Since then it was also featured in an episode of Eugene Levy's Reluctant Traveler series (S1 E6). It is expensive, but it is all inclusive and rates as one of the splurges in my life for which I have no regret.
The Train on the Bridge Hotel Viewed from Shalati's Dining Pavilion
The hotel is utlizes a 1920's rail bridge where beautifully restored rail cars have been permanently located. they all feature beautiful unobstructed views over the river. The river below is home to hippos.
And hippos are not friendly to those that invade their turf.
Or, as the porter taking our luggage reminded us "please be extra careful. Do not drop anything off the bridge. We do not go down the the river to retrieve anything."
Then he gave us our room orientation. There was large windows, lots of treats and liquor and a very durable monkey screen. We were cautioned to close it tightly when we went to bed. And, that night we realized why. All night long monkeys used the roof of the train cars as a short cut from one side of the river the other.
The Rail Car Rooms at Kruger Sahalati
A the very middle of the bridge a place to swim was incorporated. So in the middle of the day between photo safari's you can cool off above the river and enjoy the ever changing view of the wildlife below.
The Pool on the Bridge is a Tough Act to Follow
Of course the main reason to visit Kruger is not a hotel, it is the wildife. And the park doesn't disappoint. We had the opportunity to take four photo safaris. They begin when as the animals get up (4:30 am) and conclude after most have settled in for the night (9:00 pm).
During our safaris we had sightings of all of the "Big Five" except the rhinoceros. There had been rare rains before our arrival that washed out the roads used to access where the rhino's are typically found.
And whether it was the hyena's lazing about on the warm asphalt in the morning, or the lions, elephants, or leapards, every sighting brought excitement.
One elephant we encountered still possessed full tusks. Our guide explained that in just one generation male elephants in Kruger have evolved to only grow small tusks. So he was one of only 28 elephants in the park still posessing his tusks due to the (still) rampant poaching by those seeking those tusks.
An Elderly Elephant With Full Tusks
The other major sighting for us (besides lions of course) was this very large and highly photogenic leapard that emerged in front of our jeep.
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