Montestigliano

Living in Villa Donati

This week I am a resident of Italy. For the next 7 days and 6 nights I have a real address living in the Villa Donati on the Montestgiliano estate in Central Tuscany.

Before arriving in the Villa I spent another morning in the historic inner wall area of Siena examining its beautiful Duomo and enjoying a "Gelato for breakfast" day.

It rained a bit

I then went to a huge local supermarket. I can't tell you how wonderful it was to peer into coolers filled with dozens of brands of fresh prosciutto. Then I moved on into the produce aisle and cried at the sight of piles of fresh soft fragrant peaches and nectarines. Nearby there were mountains of plump grapes with seeds. I came to realize that nobody touches produce until they carefully put on gloves. Then there was the cheese (tubs and tubs of fresh mozzarella) and the seafood...... 

I would have been quite happy to spend a couple of very happy hours in that supermarket....

But we had friends to meet and traveled the 12 km from Siena to the Montestigliano estate. This is a working farm in a region that grows sunflowers, olives, corn and grains. On the estate they bottle their own olive oil. 

Sitting on the top of the hill was the oldest of the houses; Villa Donati. Built in the 1700's this home dates back to the days of George Washington and Benjamin Franklin.

Villa Donati

The villa has 6 bedrooms and has been upgraded to five bathrooms. It has a modern kitchen and a big dining room with a lovely back yard with grape arbors with a western view looking west over the rolling hills and rows of cypress trees.

 

Tuscan Hill Country Views From The Estate

 

Huge Grapes on Arbors

Just Out the Back Door 

 There are two lovely swimming pools and the doors and windows of the villa have been left wide open all day to harvest the fresh air after a rain this morning.   

 

One of Two Swimming Pools At Montestigliano

I settled in, grabbed my camera and took a easy walk down the long rows of cypress tree. It was quiet and lovely.

The Trademark Italian Cypress Trees

Seemingly Define Every Ancient and Current Roadway

I'm never going to want to leave.....

Roadboy's Travels © 2011

Ahh Siena!

Italy's Hilltop Treasure

This isn't my first trip to Siena. And, God willing, it won't be my last. It is a complete delight. The summer edition of the famous Il Palio was run a week or so ago, and the streets and Campo still bear the trappings of the world's only true horse race. No offense meant to Santa Anita or Churchill Downs, but in those venues for a horse to win there has to be a rider on it's back. 

In Il Palio the first horse to cross the line - with or without a rider - wins.

Now that is truly a "horse" race!

I arrived into Siena by train from Venice (via Florence.) The 1 hour 28 minute trip from Florence costs all of 6.3 euros. But, unless you know this medieval town like the back of your hand, flag down a cab between the train station and your hotel.  

I then met up with old friends to enjoy a Bellini al fresco on the Campo before dinner. From there we watched a recently wed emerge from City Hall and get showered in rice (nice to know that there is a place where you can still throw rice!)

A Wedding Party in Siena

There was a free band concert on the Campo featuring a well volumed and eclectic mix of music.

From dinner we descended into the ancient brick basement of Guidoriccio for an amazing dinner. Since we were early, the owner fawned on us. He started us out with pureed veggies and bruschetta (I’m serious the bread was part of the puree). He then poured the best chianti I have ever tasted (a 2007 Rietine). That was followed with prosciutto and melon, risotto with saffron, pappardelle with wild boar, and pork tenderloins marinated in balsamic vinegar (I know it sounds odd, but was great). Desert was fig, raspberry, and blueberry (the best ever) sorbet from Grom. I loved it so much I did a total face plant in my blueberry sorbet. Took numerous napkins to fix that.

Siena's Center of Community Life

The Campo

And Home to A Magnificent City Hall!

Rant Warning!

I came away realizing that Siena offers a timeless lesson to elected officials and city planners. Yet, it is a lesson completely ignored in virtually all modern North American car centric cities.

Any real city needs some sort of vibrant center of community life. Sorry, shopping malls rarely suffice. 

And vibrant centers of community life should include fine, timeless, durable public buildings that a community can point to as a source of pride for the ages.

After sitting though endless City Council meetings all over North America - I can tell you in most places any decision where to locate a new public building will almost always descend to selecting land that is cheap, poisoned, behind something, hard to build on, and incapable of ever providing any tax revenue. 

Our priorities have become fiscal and strictly short term. 

Siena elegantly proves the deep flaw in embracing short term goals, rather than a more timeless vision. 


Conversely, could it be that we have unconsciously come to view our modern cities as disposable?

Roadboy's Travels © 2011

Venice My Way

A Day for Meandering

Well despite a long day of flying from Arizona to Venice, I arrived feeling pretty darned good. So I checked into my hotel, showered, took a couple hours of nap and then bought my 1.20 Euro ticket from the (exceptionally nice) Hilton Garden Inn to Venice.

Despite waiting for the mid-day sun to subside I still wound up walking for almost 5 hours. Bliss....

The Grand Canal Looking Towards The Rialto Bridge

I had only one firm destination and that was Ottica Carraro; Venice's home for one-of-kind, yet affordable, eyeglass frames. They aren't for everyone, but I love 'em.

The Glasses from Ottica Carrraro

Sooo Italian

The rest of the time I only had a general inclination where I was. Which, for Roadboy, is heaven. Cause thats when I stumble on stuff.

First off the Bridge of Sighs is in the middle of refurbishment and has been wrapped up in clouds. So, at least for now, it sort of has a Disneyland feel.

The Bridge of Sighs Has Been Seemingly Set Adrift

I then spent lots of time people watching, especially the kids (of all ages) feeding the pigeons on Piazza San Marco. Piazza San Marco joins Trafalgar Square in London and Plaza Catalunya in Barcelona as premiere pigeon / human play venues.

A Lot of The Best Stuff in Travel is Free

Like all Italian cities there were folks that were dressed like supermodels, mixed in with pure elegance, and a whole bunch of "What Not To Wear". 

Wow!

Wow?

The Music

The Food

The Art

David Slays......

Some Street Art

I can now verify that the Love Locks Craze I saw in Paris last winter has reached Venice. At least on the Accademia Bridge!

A Kiss, A Lock, A Key Is Tossed in The Canal

I finished off my movable feast with street food. A magnificent fresh mozzarella panini, a tall bottle of beer, and some cool mojito sorbet. 

Time for bed!

Tomorrow it is all day on the train to Florence and on to Siena, but I'll spend a couple of more days in Venice before I leave. 

Roadboy's Travels © 2011

Off To Tuscany

Gonna Live In A Villa

Next week I'm doing something I rarely do, travel relatively unplanned.

A few weeks back a friend from college called to let me know a trip he was planning with about 15 friends had an extra slot. When he explained that he rented a villa about 12 km from Siena, and I found out mountain bikes were available, I decided I wanted to go. 

After a little checking I found out that (amazingly) this late in the summer there was still a reduced point frequent flier business class seat to Venice available a day or two either side of when I'd need to be there. Total price (incl. taxes) $49!

I'm oughta here. 

Not totally sure what the internet situation will be each night, but I'll post when I can.

Ciao!

Roadboy's Travels © 2011

Roadboy's Santa Fe

Pure Bliss

Anyone that knows Roadboy is well aware of my penchant for one-of-a-kind places. I despise modern American cities carefully designed by sadistic civil engineers to maximize pavement. While great for cars, 6 lane wide streets, divided by huge medians are completely anti-pedestrain and efficient in the destruction of anyone who dares to ride a bicycle. These are roads bordered by the urban vomit of cookie cutter Applebee's, Burger Kings, Starbucks, or Panera's.

To me there is nothing more heartbreaking than the slow "Strip Malling" of America. 

So, lets just put it out there that I prefer places with history. Places that embrace art. Places with distinctive architecture. Places that serve up unique food. Place's that are unabashedly spiritual. Places with narrow streets. Places with distinctive colors and smells.

This weekend I had the good fortune to revisit one of those special places - Santa Fe. 

So here is a quick post to throw a little happy on a place that leaves no doubt why New Mexico truly is America's "Land of Enchantment".   

Moonrise Over Santa Fe

Santa Fe is the oldest capital city in North America. It is also the site of the oldest public building in North America - the 401 year old Santa Fe Palace of Governor's.

Indian Artisan's at the Palace of the Governor's

Coming from a typical Phoenix summer day of 108° F, the weather in Santa Fe was a delight; bright sunshine followed by big splashes of cool drops of rain!

Man's Best Friend Carry's the Umbrella

This is a city where there is seemingly a church and three art galleries on every corner. The art varies from traditional to cutting edge. The church's are sublime, with perhaps the Loretto Chapel and it's miraculous staircase being my favorite.

The Stairs of Loretto

  

To this day there is no record of the mysterious craftsman who came, built the stair tower in the Loretto Chapel, and then was never seen again. The stair has two complete 360° coils and was built solely using wooden pegs. There is no glue, nails, or steel in its construction. It rises without any center support. It was originally built without handrails. It is quite simply a marvel.

Contemporary Native Art 

At the Institute of the American Indian

Santa Fe inspired luminaries like Gerogia O'Keefe and is home to the renowned Santa Fe Opera Company.

If you need lodging consider the funky El Rey Motel. For Dinner Lan's Vietnamese was tasty. Oh, but for Breakfast go early and grab a table at The Pantry where (since 1948) portions and flavors have been  big, rich, and spicy and the staff and clientele ever friendly.

And if you come or go via the Albuquerque Sunport, plan to stop long enough to enjoy an amazing meal at The Standard Diner on Central SE. It began life as a gas station, but now it deliver's creative cuisine with flair and finesse.

Albuquerque's Standard Diner - Nothin Standard About it!

For my money, a visit to Santa Fe is pure magic any time of the year.

Roadboy's Travel's © 2011

A Walk in Santa Barbara

California's Most Beautiful City

Update
Two days after this visit one of the local architects I met while there passed away unexpectedly. He spent much of his professional life creating architecture in Santa Barbara. So I dedicate this to Jorge Machin.   

When you ask almost anyone to pick their favorite place in California, people tend to list a city like San Francisco or maybe San Diego. Some might select a general area like Lake Tahoe, The Redwoods, The Wine Country, or Yosemite.

When you change the question and ask them to name California's most beautiful city, then a whole different list emerges. It will usually include Coronado, Carmel, Monterey, Napa, Mendocino, and Santa Barbara.

Santa Barbara - America's Riviera

For my money the loveliest of them all is Santa Barbara. It has a great beach, lovely harbor, a superb mediterranean climate, great restaurants, great shops, great cultural amenities, and wonderful examples of mission style and andalusian  architecture.

First inhabited by Chumash Indians and later visited twice by Padre Serra, (once in 1769 and again in 1782 to establish the Presidio and California's most beautiful mission - which was dedicated in 1786.) 

Less than 50 years later the large land tracts secured by Serra and held by the Franciscan Order were distributed to wealthy cattle ranching families commencing California's Rancho period. The rancho period ended about thirty years later when many of those cattle died during a severe drought.

With the construction of Stearn's wharf in 1872, and the development of rail service to Los Angeles and San Francisco around the turn of the century, Santa Barbara was very accessible and development boomed. The discovery of oil locally and a burgeoning motion picture industry furthered the local economy.

Nowadays the area is home to high tech companies, a University of California campus and some of the wealthiest people in North America.

I was lucky enough to spend a day in Santa Barbara this week for business. I was even luckier when my business ended early enough in the day for me to take a two hour walk. I had no agenda and just meandered. Everywhere I ventured was wonderful. 

The first stop was to see the magnificent Santa Barbara County Courthouse. Pronounced the best building in California by no less than architect Charles Moore, this 1929 masterpiece is amazing. Built as a tangible symbol of the rebirth of Santa Barbara from its devastating 1925 earthquake, much of the building blurs the line between indoors and outdoors. It is composed of essentially three parts, its focal point being the lovely understated bell tower (that the public may still visit to enjoy 360° views.)

The Santa Barbara County Courts Building

In a city where land is now sold by the square inch, this building has a huge magnificent open landscaped forecourt.

Looking From the Bell Tower Toward the Sheriff's Wing

Mermaids and Triton Adorn the Building

I stayed at Fess Parker's Doubletree Resort. This property is directly across the street from the beach and is lushly landscaped. It suffers from poor planning, slipshod construction, some very indifferent staff. And, despite room rates that start at $300 per night, its spacious, but very tired rooms, only rate "nice" in my book. I guess location is everything.

An Ocean View From My Room  

Hibiscus Blooming on My Balcony

The beach was wonderfully uncrowded, beautifully open, and very easily accessible. With staffed lifeguard stations, this is a great section of beach for families.  I ventured to the harbor and ate at Brophy's. This busy cafe offers excellent chowder and a (very) lively bar scene.

The Harbor

Uncrowded Beaches

I turned to head up State Street (Downtown's major thoroughfare.) State Street and the blocks extending both directions from it are home to galleries, restaurants, designer boutiques, jewelry stores, and theaters.

Santa Barbara's Shops Cater to Every Taste

From a Rolex to Skin Art

It is also a movable feast for people watching. People move in waves, students, tourists, backpackers, homeless, along with the very well heeled from around the world.

Santa Barbara is famous (or infamous) for its rigid architectural design and development. While the standards make it difficult and excruciatingly expensive to build anything at all, what finally emerges is assured to be lovely and in perfect harmony with Santa Barbara's mission style heritage.

A Detail From the Public Library

Ficus Trees Line Many Streets and

Bougainvillea Vines Adorn Many Buildings 

Much like other California beach communities, the contrast between rich and poor here is profound, panhandling and homelessness are the norm. And, judging by the amazing number of private jets stacked three deep at the airport, many residents here have more money than they will ever need.

Next trip here, I will rent a room in one of the impeccably maintained 1950's era motel's on upper State St. and use the savings to rent a bicycle. Then I'll go for a ride along the coast to the University.

Roadboy's Travels © 2011


PS For those that love the catalog clothing from Santa Barbara's own "The Territory Ahead", There is a retail store and an outlet store on State Street. I'm more of the "Outlet Store" kind of guy. I found a pair of silk and linen slacks, a pair of chinos, and a polo that I really loved. Retail would have been about $240. The Outlet price (including tax) rang out at $56. Roadboy is still smilin.....

10,000!

A Milestone for Independence Day!

Sometime last night Roadboy's Travels recorded its 10,000th page view.

I know that this is actually a modest number relative to many blogs, but it is a heck of a lot more than I ever dreamed of when I started it!

So I wanted to offer my sincere thanks everyone that has ever visited!

All the best from Roadboy!


Roadboy's Travel's © 2011