Roadboy's Rocky Mountain Weekend

A Perfect Trip With a Perfect Friend 

Denver to Phoenix - A Classic Road Trip

When I was a young kid I spent a few summers in Colorado. I stayed part of the time at my Aunt Waundia's ranch outside of Cañon City. She had horses, cows, chickens, and a few goats. She sold Avon cosmetics and Hidden Valley dressing mix (you could only get it that way in those days).

She lived in the little log house her late husband built. Without a dependable well, potable water was hauled in to fill a cistern by Uncle John. Whoa be to anyone who took a "Hollywood" shower or flushed the indoor toilet. If it was daylight you better hit the outhouse mister....

Grandma and Grandpa lived next door in a single wide trailer. Grandpa chewed tobacco constantly and was never far from an old coffee can spittoon that totally grossed me out. But under his gruff persona was a real sweetie. One day he spent a whole afternoon showing me the ropes in making gooey, sweet, popcorn balls with colors that were not found in nature.

With no internet or cable every evening we'd relocate outside around a campfire where I'd admire a sky I really never knew existed. And most nights magnificent electrical storms exploded across the Sangre de Cristo Mountains to the west.

Daily life was highly ritualized with shopping trips and a run to the tiny post office in Wetmore (where the cranky postal clerk had rows of jars filled with penny candy).

So Colorado will always be magic to me.

Fast forward to this spring when my friend Carolyn adeptly pointed out that we had yet to plan our annual long weekend for 2022. Somehow Colorado just seemed to check off a bunch of boxes. We could get a few days out of the heat of Austin and Phoenix respectively. We could enjoy some of the West's most majestic scenery and I would be able to drift off mentally to relive some fond childhood memories. And, on the practical side, I have projects under construction on both sides of the Rockies I could check in on.

Our plan was simple. Carolyn would drive from Austin to Denver and visit an old friend. I'd fly in midweek and we'd have a day to sightsee in Denver before aiming very her cute and very orange Subaru toward Glenwood Springs where I booked an AirBNB within earshot of the Roaring Fork.

The first day we thoroughly enjoyed Denver's striking Art Museum (DAM). The museum is composed of cojoined buildings spanning various city blocks. The original North Building, opened in 1971, is the only built structure in America designed by Italian architect Gio Ponti. It is a 24 sided, seven story, 210,000 square foot castle whose "thin but jealous walls" defend the precious artistic treasures it contains. On sunny days it sparkles thanks to the 1,000,000 Dow Corning glass tiles that clad it. 

The controversial 146,000 square foot Hamilton Wing, designed by Studio Daniel Libeskind, opened in 2006. It is a 167 feet tall titanium clad crystal jutting sharply in every direction.  

Entering Exhibit Spaces 

I found the museum and a its special exhibits showcasing women photographers to be mesmerizing.

The first special exhibit showcased the photos of Georgia O' Keefe. They illustrate her favorite places, her beloved chow dogs, flora, and the environs of her New Mexico home and studio. But, it was Todd Webb's photos of O'Keefe herself that I found most engaging. While her artwork presents bright vivid hues, Webb's photos are subdued in muted hues of sepia.

 Georgia O'Keefe at Canyon de Chelly

(1957 Todd Webb) 

O'Keefe with Her Chow

White Flower

(Georgia O'Keefe 1929)

The other special exhibit presented a cross section of women photographers. I was really impressed with the work of Esther Bubley. Her work conveys with remarkable sensitivity the dignity of her subjects in everyday circumstances.

Esther Bubley

(1921-1998)

Greyhound Bus Terminal, New York City

(Part of Esther Bubley's bus and transit series 1942-1947) 

Another of the photographers included was Bubley's contemporary Margaret Bourke-White. White was justifiably famous for her daring photos (including the iconic photo of her in one of the Chrysler Building's Stainless Steel gargoyles). Bourke-White was the first female photographer for Life magazine and created famous photos chronicling two world wars and the Great Depression.

Unknown to me was her extensive pre and post war work in Russia and the Soviet Union.

Moscow Streetcar Worker

(Margaret Bourke-White, 1925)

Imogen Cunningham (1883-1976) remains one of my favorite American photographers. While attending a 1975 commencement ceremony for a friend at Mill's College in Oakland I witnessed Ms. Cunningham, and Maya Angelou, accept honorary doctorate degrees. Ms. Angelou went on to fire up her gravel on velvet voice to deliver a commencement speech that stole my breath.

Imogen Cunningham 1883-1976

Imogen Cunningham was born in Portland Oregon and became famous for botanical photography, nudes, and industrial landscapes of exceptional clarity. In 1920 Cunningham and her husband Roi Partridge came to live on the Mill's campus after Roi accepted a teaching position there. 

Cunningham later photographed for Vanity Fair until it ceased publication in 1933. She eventually accepted an offer from Ansel Adams to join Dorothea Lange and Margaret Bourke-White to establish the founding faculty of the California School of Fine Arts in 1945.

Magnolia Blossom

(Imogen Cunningham - Gelatin Silver Print 1925)

Another of my favorite photographers was Dorothea Lange. Lange was born in Hoboken NJ and contracted polio at age seven. The polio resulted in a permanent limp in her right leg that "formed me, guided me, instructed me, helped me, and humiliated me". Her father abandoned her family at a young age forcing her mother to move the family from suburban New Jersey to a poor section of New York City. With her mother working extended hours Lange found time to explore New York. This likely helped to develop her keen observation skills. 

In 1918 Lange relocated to San Francisco. In 1920 she wed famed western artist Maynard Dixon and operated a successful portrait studio. They had 2 children. She and Dixon were divorced in 1935. She went on to marry UC Berkeley economics Professor Paul Schuster Taylor to whom she remained married for the rest of her life.

Accompanied by her assistant Rondal Partridge (son of Imogen Cunningham) she found her purpose photographing the depression migration from the dust bowl to California. The honest imagery she captured led to employment by the Federal Government's Resettlement Administration and later the Farm Security Administration. 

Her blunt photographs of the internment of Japanese Americans were deemed too sensitive to be seen during the war and were impounded by the US government for the duration of the war.

Dorothea Lange 1895-1965

Perhaps the images that I found most striking were those of Olivier Silva by the Dutch photographer Rineke Dijkstra. Dijkstra's work captures her subjects in a raw state.  Her series of Silva transports the viewer on his journey from innocence to toughness and eventual dissallusionment. 

Olivier Silva, Marseille 2000

In this series Dijkstra first photographed the 17 year old Silva as he entered the Foreign Legion. He wears his civilian clothes with eyes that bore directly into the viewer.

Olivier Silva, Camp Rafalli, Corsica 2001

In his second photo, during Foreign Legion military training in Corsica, his eyes have narrowed and his expression is laser serious. Innocence is fading. Facial lines have formed.  

Olivier Silva, Djibouti 2003

In this third photo Silva's expression has changed completely. His transformation is complete. There is pure toughness and no innocence left.

In a 2012 exhibit of these photos at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art Silva himself is quoted:

"In the photographs that you can see that I grew up and evolved … In the beginning you see me full of expectation. Towards the end I’m more mature. The last photograph shows that I’ve been through some sort of trial; going through that heavy training had changed my face … [but it] shows more than just physical development. As time went by my opinion of the French Legion altered … as I realised what the Foreign Legion truly is, my dream gradually dissolved. In the end I did my five years and left."

The next image was one of my favorites. It is by John Singer Sargent. It is one of three study portraits of Rosina Ferrara painted by Singer Sargent on the isle of Capri in 1878 (when he was 22). Sargent kept one of the portraits his entire life.

Head of Capri Girl

(John Singer Sargent 1897)

I found curation of relatively modern western artists at the DAM to be exceptional. The new realism of the oil on illustration board painting of bareback bronc rider Don Walker by James Bama (1926-2022) conveys that western sensibility perfectly.

Don Walker

(James Bama, 1972, Cody Wyoming) 

I'll return to this museum any chance I get.

The next morning we pointed the orange wonder into the heart of the front range where we enjoyed two days / nights in Glenwood Springs.  We strolled the Hotel Colorado, window shopped downtown Glenwood Springs, and spent a few blissed out hours adrift in the world's biggest mineral pool.

Mineral Pools - Glenwood Springs

The Glenwood Springs "Spa of the Rockies" pool was designed in 1888 to harness 3.5 million gallons of the naturally hot 122° mineral water that rises every day. The pool is kept at 90-93° and is open year round.

After Glenwood we drove to Aspen and then cruised the "Top of the Rockies" highway with a small detour to perhaps my favorite little town in Colorado (Salida) for lunch. Then we began our journey west paralleling to the Gunnison, to overnight in Montrose. 

Spectacular Scenery Along the Gunnison

From Montrose we enjoyed our final days in the mountains near Telluride before our decent out of the mountains to visit the Four Corners and spend an evening in Navajo country.

Near the 4 Corners

When we arrived at the 4 corners we took the opportunity to stand in four states at the same time. 

Standing in Utah, Arizona, New Mexico and Colorado Simultaneoulsy 

After an evening enjoying the hospitality of the Navajo Nation's Navajoland Hotel in Tuba City we spent our final day returning to Phoenix via a very wet Flagstaff.   

Such a great trip.

Carolyn, where are we going next year?

 

Roadboy's Travels © 2022

 

Roadboy's Crete

So Many Choices

Anyone lucky enough to visit Crete faces lots of decisions before and after arriving on this extraordinary island.

Accommodation Type: 

Crete is huge and offers visitors everything from beachfront 5-Star resorts to modest hideaway cottages. There are luxe homes and condos with private swimming pools in every setting. We chose an AirBNB close to the beach without a pool. We figured in May a pool would likely be chilly and we'd be able to walk to the beach.     

Our choice of accommodation came with an amazing AirBNB host (Maria). She met us and personally led us to her large modern, immaculate, ocean view apartment. 

Maria had her mom's warm olive oil cake waiting for us. Our chef traveling companion rather magnificently showcases the food from our trip (including a recipe for the olive oil cake) on her website: Dorothy Eats! (also on her website is information on her many cookbooks including her latest featuring Middle Eastern recipes). 

Maria's unit was a perfect home base. The unit was filled with light both morning and afternoon thanks to balconies facing both east and west. 

Accommodation Location: 

Again, lots of choices on the island to make your home base. Most visitors choose Chania or Rethymno.

Maria's AirBNB at Rethymno Beach was perfectly located between Crete's two largest city's Heraklion (where most tourists arrive) and Chania. Heraklion bustles with industry, culture, and history. Chania charms with a lively old town and picturesque horseshoe shaped port. 

 Ms. M / Sunset at Rethymno Beach

Rethymno is perfectly positioned in between Heraklion and Chania and is delightfully less crowded than both. Yet, it features lovely beaches, great food, a stunning old town, and a harbor complete with a pristine Venetian lighthouse. To me, Rethymno felt instantly comfy.

Experiences / Activities / Food:  

Crete offers a huge selection of sights and activities. There are caves and gorges to hike, spectacular beaches, terrain for cycling, museums, archeological sights, and (of course) glorious food. Crete is one of the largest islands in the Mediterranean and I was surprised to see snowcapped mountains when we arrived in May.

Our first day on Crete was a catch up day. We washed clothes, shopped for groceries, walked on the close-by beach, ate in a local cafe, and reveled in baked goods from the (wonderful) nearby Giampous Bakery.

Rustic Breads and Treats from Giampous Bakery

Maria became our unofficial tour guide and best friend on Crete. She checked in on us throughout the week sharing "locals only" recommendations for food, shopping and scenery. Between Antonis on Santorini and Maria on Crete, we felt like returning family.

Day Two for me began with cycling I'd arranged with Joyride Cycle. Although I booked a "recreational" skill tour, when I arrived Manos (JoyRide's Owner) gave me a quick appraisal and added me to a tour he was setting up for two (intimidatingly) fit Germans in full cycle gear.

It was clear the tour would be a bit challenging for an overweight, arthritic 66 year old guy (even riding one of Manos' superb mountain E-bikes). 

We pedaled about 4-hours quickly rising 2,000' from sea level. But, there was no way I was going to back down. 

Manos' route cruised us through single track trails, back roads, and archeological digs. We dodged farm dogs, splashed across streams and bounced through nice rock gardens. 

It was bliss. 

Manos was a total pro stopping to offer great technical riding pointers: Proper grip, effective braking, and how to pick a line. I came away a sore but better cyclist. 

I even got a high five from the Germans at the end. I'm afraid the ride required all the focus this old guy could possibly muster, I had no time to snap photos.

That afternoon / evening was spent sightseeing Rethymno's Old Town. It is filled with lots of lovely little streets that eventually lead to a beautiful harbor. Some of the specialty shops were exceptional. I particularly loved Spantis' Handmade Leathergoods. And, after my ride, I felt guilt-free buying some of my beloved Greek jelly candy. 

 Fresh Brewed Coffee and Warm Loukoumades (Greek Doughnuts)

Old town is bordered by Rethymno's ancient fortress (where a wedding was underway).

A Bride and Groom Ascending the Fortress

Dinner was served at Ali Vafi's Garden (a perfect recommendation by Maria). The large internal courtyard garden was once part of a home housing the Venetian Cavalry. The menu was eclectic with a decidedly Middle Eastern flair. I had their "Crispy Chicken". I have no idea what was in the seasonings, but it was truly crispy and it was truly wonderful.

Ali Vafi's Crispy Chicken

After dinner, as the sun was beginning to set, we walked back to the harbor with a stop along the way for some fresh goats milk gelato. At the harbor Rethymno's graceful Venetian lighthouse presided over glass smooth water. 

Seemed like a perfect end to a great day.

Rethymno Harbor's Venetian Lighthouse

The next day we returned to Heraklion to visit the Palace of Knossos and Heraklion's Archeological Museum. Heeding Maria's suggestion we secured the services of a professional guide. What a difference it makes when you are escorted by someone who has given tours of the site for 23 years. Our guide knew every inch of the palace grounds and could answer almost any question we posed. 

 

Knossos has been called Europe's oldest city and served as the capital of the Minoan civilization. The palace was destroyed in 1370. 

 

The current 3-acre palace site reflects the discovery of the site by Minos Kalokairinos in 1878 and the well funded excavation and restoration work by Arthur Evans in 1900. The palace had various ceremonial and practical buildings surrounding a large internal courtyard. The palace featured distinctive columns made from cypress trees. Inverting the trees (trunks up) prevented sprouting. This site and palace are filled with folklore including the palace's ferocious child eating Minotaur eventually slain by Theseus.

 

 The Palace Labrynth

 

The Palace Grounds

 

Visiting the site on a perfectly beautiful day was the perfect introduction to seeing the colorful Minoan artwork from the site at Heraklion's Archeological Museum.  The frescoes are full of animated shapes and color. I loved these dolphins.

Minoan Dolphin Fresco

Processional Figure Carrying a Rhyton

Many of the figures were posed with steeply arched backs which is believed to be a symbol of respect. The Rhytons were essentially chalices with holes at the base. They were used to hold libations and blood from the animals used for sacrifices.

Sculpture Gallery at the Heraklion Archeological Museum

After a day of history we spent the next day just exploring and sightseeing. Much of our day was spent traversing through mountain passes to the other side of the island to visit to Crete's famous pink sand Elfonisi Beach. With perfect temperatures and a light breeze it was a perfect day to be at waters edge watching parasailing and visitor's instagramming their every move.

Elfonisi Beach

That day was capped with a dinner in Chania at a restaurant Dorothy remembered from previous visits. Chania is where much of her family is from so the city offers lots of fond memories. It was full of visitors enjoying the cafe's lining its harbor.      

Harborside Dining in Chania

Sadly my little 3 cylinder rental Peugeot on Crete lacked the forgiving clutch of our VW UP! from Santorini. So the long day of driving was more of a challenge. But who can complain? The week long rental was under $200 and the car sipped gas (perfect in a place where gas costs were well over $10 / gallon).   

It was now time to pack, say our goodbyes to Maria and return to the airport for our flight back to return to Athens.

Flying off to Athens 

This was a spectacular trip. The weather was beautiful. The scenery and food were wonderful. Rich history is everywhere.

Avtio / Farewell Greece!

 

Roadboy's Travels © 2022

 

Roadboy's Birthday in Santorini

Thank You Aunt Helen!

Buckle up. The following intro is wordy, but I promise it will eventually get to the topic at hand.

Moving through life we come to intersections where our lives rub up to greatness. Of course while it is actually happening, we are frequently clueless.

My father was a wonderful man. He had a long career as a police officer. A job he loved. But, for much of my childhood he worked nights (or "dogwatch"). So he'd arrive home and go to bed right as I left for school.  That meant we didn't have a normal father / son relationship until I hit the age of about 13 when he could bid for day shifts.

So when I was young my routine was to come home from elementary school, eat dinner, chat up mom and then ask to go "next door".

It wasn't to play games or watch TV with neighbor kids. No I went to visit Mr. and Mrs. Hackshaw. They were an extraordinarily well educated, yet childless, couple. And, in retrospect, heaven knows why they put up with me. But they were so much fun to be around and Aubrey became a surrogate dad. 

Aubrey was from the West Indies and owned that elegant "Cola Nut" accent (sorry for those that have no clue). His prized possession was his big console "Hi-Fi".

Sometimes Aubrey and I would chat or play games, other times we'd just watch television. But my favorite activity was when he'd sit on the floor and deejay Harry Belafonte LP's. He'd sing and clap his hands and this (very uptight) six year old white kid would get up and dance to the Banana Boat Song or Matilda. Dancing in that clumsy way only 5 or 6 years olds can. 

DAY-O!

Alvessie cooked me plantains and made guava jelly. OMG! 

It was a turbulent time in America and when the Watt's riots hit (which confused a small kid), Alvessie took the time to gently explain what was happening in a way a small kid could understand. And, her honesty and insight frequently provided me a logical alternative to some of what I heard at home. 

Being around the Hackshaw's taught me that once you come to love people, it becomes hard to hate the "thems" of the world. Such an important lesson.

Years later I came to fully realize how respected they were in Oakland's African American Community. I also discovered that many of the guests I met walking around at their cocktail parties (me looking at kneecaps) were famous sports stars, musicians (Count Basie's Orchestra!) and at least two Presidential cabinet members.....

But that's another story.

Another intersection with greatness involved my own family. I've always adored my Aunt Helen and Uncle Ken. Like the Hackshaw's, only later in life did I fully realize the greatness of their lives. When Uncle Ken passed away last October he was the oldest living member of the NFL. In fact, although drafted by the Pittsburgh Steeler's, he opted to play his two professional NFL seasons for the brand new SF 49'ers at Kezar (think Dirty Harry). 

Mom's sister, Ken's beloved wife of 75+ years (Aunt Helen), was all business. She ran her family like a corporation. Her authoritative voice left no doubt what was going to happen as she dispensed wisdom in a completely matter-of-fact manner.

But that's also another story.

So why do I bring all this up? Well its about learning to trust greatness. 

You see during one of my chats with Aunt Helen (who had seemingly traveled everywhere) I asked her to list her favorite places on earth. Without hesitation she said French Polynesia and Santorini.

In that moment, those places took their place on my must see destinations list.

So fast forward to May 2022. After our departure from Athens our first stop (thanks to Aunt Helen) was the island caldera of Santorini.

Our AirBNB host Antonis met us at the airport where he piled all our luggage in his zippy little all electric Fiat. That allowed us to follow him to his MyBozer Twins (his two lovely AirBNB units). As there are no street signs or addresses on Santorini. Apple Maps is worthless. You have to follow someone.

Till the moment we picked our Volkswagen UP! I had never heard of one. But it became our 3 cylinder freedom machine (complete with a very forgiving clutch).

Antonis proved to be human joy with a heartbeat. He loves life, people, and his adorable adopted pit bull Bella.

He delivered a fresh tray of different warm Greek pastries to us every morning of our stay.

Good Morning from Antonis! 

Our first planned activity was a glorious evening walking tour of the hilltop town of Oía with Jean Sébastien. 

 

Jean Sébastien

We learned the history of the island along with the volcanic legacy of the crescent shaped caldera that forms Santorini and its bay.  

Oía and Fira are the islands two big towns. Both cling to the steep cliffs of the caldera. Both offer iconic guest rooms created from caves. 

Jean Sébastien, however, alerted us to the seismically unstable "Red Zone" on which some of Santorini's hotels and guest lodgings reside. 

If you plan to visit Santorini ask if your lodgings are in the red zone. If they are, stay somewhere else. The last cataclysmic earthquake was July 7, 1956 and experts believe they are due for another.  When it arrives a lot of lovely white structures will tumble down Santorini's steep cliffs into the sea.

Oía is the quiet and romantic "honeymoon" town. Fira is the boisterous party town. Happily our AirBNB was not in either. It was just down the hill from Oía nestled in some wonderfully quiet vineyards. We enjoyed views of the ocean and the donkey that arrived every morning to graze just outside our window.

Our Morning Visitor

While in Athens we asked Ms. Kochilas for some recommendations on places to eat on Santorini. Top of her list was the Sigalis Winery. Which turned out to be literally a few steps from our AirBNB.

Truly Joss!

So here are some photos of our time on Santorini.

Ms. M and the Crystal Blue Aegean Waters of the Caldera

The hilltowns of Oía and Fira are hopelessly picturesque. The white "paint" is actually a limestone slurry applied annually to seal the buildings, reflect heat, and keep mosquitos away. Some say the domes were painted blue to thumb their nose to the Ottoman occupiers as it made the whole city into a Greek Flag.

Jean Sébastien warned us to avoid Red Beach (where deadly rock slides are a high probability). He also advised against white swim attire as some beaches release sulfur leaving unfortunate swimmers with potentially embarrassing (and permanent) yellow stains.

 

There are Lots of Cats

Many Caves Come With Private Pools and Spas

Our visit included my 66th birthday. So when the day came Antonis booked lunch reservations at Fratzeskos on the beach in Perissa. The fish was caught that morning. I had a fresh grilled Scorpionfish. It was sublime. Dorothy introduced us to taramasalata (a meze made from the salted roe mixed with olive oil, lemon juice and a starchy base of bread or potatoes). It was wonderful.   

Perusing the Menu at Fratzeskos

Scorpionfish

One of the more popular activities on the island is the 7 KM ridge hike from Fira to Oía. It is well marked and offers spectacular views. Take lots of water.

Looking From Fira to Oía

Sadly our time on Santorini finally came to an end. We turned in our UP! at the airport, said our goodbyes to Antonis (and Bella) and shuttled to the port to catch a high speed SeaJets ferry for the 90 minute crossing to Heraklion Crete.

On Our Way to Crete

Thank you Aunt Helen!

Roadboy's Travels © 2022

Roadboy's Rendezvous in Athens

Sightseeing and Diane Kochilas' Taste Athens Tour 

My first visit to Athens confirmed that this city needs a much better PR team. 

Before arriving former travelers warned me Athens would be dirty. Well, compared to many cities I've visited it was actually tidy. 

They warned I would find a city choked with traffic and smog. We enjoyed glorious days with sparkling, clear skies 🙂. Traffic, who cares, we walked and took Metro.

I was counseled it is overcrowded and stiflingly hot. Well here they are probably right. Locals confirmed Athen's summers are hot and muggy. And like swallows to Capistrano the summer heat arrives with hordes of international tourists. 

So, DUH, don't go to Athens in June, July or August!

I guess I do sort of empathize a bit as I live in the blast furnace that is Phoenix Arizona in summer. But, the difference is our heat is pretty dry and coincides with tourists leaving, not arriving. So Phoenicians (acclimated to surface-of-the-sun summer temperatures) are left with a hot, yet gloriously empty, city.   

Anyway, Athens offered friendly people, great sights, amazing food, spectacular art and cultural treasures all topped off with a clean and modern subway (that provides efficient transfers from the airport to city center).

For us Athens served as sort of a travel bookend. We arrived from London, spent a couple of days sightseeing before flying to explore two Greek Islands. Then we returned to Athens for a couple of more days prior to flying home.

Here are some highlights from this first timer's visit to Athens.

So, first off, lets review a little Greek travel etiquette. Before drinking tap water verify it is safe (its a Yes in Athens and a No in Santorini and Crete). Second, be aware ancient cities have ancient plumbing. Used toilet paper does NOT get flushed down the toilet (put it only in the waste receptacle that will always be near the toilet). Finally, be nice. The Greeks we met were warm and caring. Please don't skimp on sincere smiles and learn to say thank you! "Efcharistó" (Eff Care Iss Toe). 

To begin our time in Athens my traveling companions humored my request to began with a visit to the Acropolis Museum (completed in September 2007). For this architect, this stunningly designed and engineered museum was a total geek out. 

 The Acropolis and its Nearby Neighborhoods

For those unaware, the massive Acropolis Museum is truly an engineering marvel. The whole museum sort of floats above an excavated archeological dig. In fact, the entrance is a bridge with sections of glass to afford views of the ruins below.

The Entrance to the Acropolis Museum

 

As you enter the building it offers very intuitive wayfinding that leads visitors to the center of the building and up a gentle inclined ramp presided over by 5 of the original caryatids (missing the one Lord Elgin ripped off and hauled back to London).

The Five Original Caryatids

Other treasures include an array of sculptures that demonstrate the ancient Greeks understanding of human form in contrappostos.

Female Head

(a marble copy of a gold and ivory statue from the 4th or 5th century BC. The color that streams from her eyes is a product of oxidation from the statues original bronze eyelashes)

The Blond Boy

 

One of the most treasured items in the museum is this bust entitled Blond Boy. When found its hair retained traces of yellow pigment. I found it interesting that these beautiful Greek sculptures we traditionally think of as white stone were originally painted.

As you rise in the building its direction shifts with its highest level parallel to the acropolis. The building was of international significance because of the care used in seismic engineering. It is designed to (and should) someday rightfully house the frieze of the Parthenon.

But of course the frieze currently resides in the British Museum (yep Elgin "purchased" it too). I find it hugely ironic that the frieze is now referred to as the "Elgin Marbles". Such dark humor to name them after an international crook. In my perfect world the British Museum should create and display copies of the frieze panels while returning the originals to Greece. But more on this later.

PS Egypt would appreciate their mummy's back  too.         

The next event for us was a wonderful (and tasty) stroll. My chef friend organized a tour organized by PBS's renowned host of My Greek Table, Diane Kochilas. Her 4.5 hour Athen's culinary began near Syntagma Square and led us on a blissful meander through bakeries, the bustling main central market, and cheese shops. We made lots of stops to sample local food, Greek coffee, and wine.

Our tour guide was Lida who was an effervescent source of information and warmth. Our group was lucky enough to be joined by Ms. Kochilas herself for a couple of hours. She walked with us answering questions and also joined us for coffee (cooked in hot sand). I enjoyed her insights. She and Lida also gave us great recommendations on places to eat on Santorini and Crete.

First Stop A Multi-Generationally Owned Bakery 

 

A Coffee and Plant Shop

In This Cafe The Barista Crafts Drinks Among the Customers

The Fresh Seafood was Dazzling in Athen's Central Market

While passing a cafe the owner came bursting out to chat up Ms. Kochilas. So we all were invited in to see their specialty (soups). They had an extensive brag wall filled with photos from Guy Fieri to Anthony Bourdain (and among them was a photo of Diane). 

Our next stop was a break to enjoy some classically brewed Greek Coffee.

Coffee Warmed in Hot Sand

The coffee led to a session of fortune telling by reading the coffee grounds. So much family tradition is found in every facet of Greek cooking.

Reading Our Fortune

We finished off the tour in a lovely little wine bar where we all sat at the bar sampling a variety of Greek wines (whites). It was such a great way to spend a lovely spring day in Athens.

The next day was spent in transit to Santorini where we would meet Antonis our amazing AirBNB host met us at the airport. But I'll cover that in the next Post. 

After spending the next 10 days on Santorini and Crete we returned to Athens for our last couple of days in Greece before returning home. 

First up on my agenda was to eat a great breakfast (eggs scrambled with feta, fresh fruit, coffee, toast and some Greek yogurt drizzled with honey). 

Now it was time to climb the Acropolis. 

Although the climb appears daunting it is actually a glorious walk through history. The trail is gentle and passes two theaters before reaching the Temple of Athena Nike and the Propylaia. There is a glass elevator for those that need it.

Just be very careful as the steps, worn smooth by millions of tourists, are slippery even when dry. After a rain, damn!

Now I know it sounds absurd. But wear good shoes. We actually saw visitors wearing high heals. No synapses firing there.

  Soooo Slippery

Once you clear the Propylaia the view of the Parthenon is breathtaking. This is the building whose architects and engineers considered proportions to be everything. It delivered slightly inclined doric columns and added a slight curvature to the pediment to make it appear flat. 

The building is currently scaffolded to enable repairs from some ill advised prior restoration efforts.

Imagine how beautiful the building would be if so many successive insults to it had been avoided. First there was the destruction of its (nude) sculptures by the Christians seeking to convert it into a Christian church.

Then the Ottoman Turks used the Parthenon as an ammo dump (what could go wrong?). That answer came explosively in 1687 when Venetian invaders knew right where to send their bombs to destroy the Turk's armory. 

The final insult came in 1801 when Lord Elgin's workers arrived to hack away at the pediment to remove the last remaining intact frieze panels for transport back to London. He displayed them as a curiosity until the British Government purchased them for installation in The British Museum. The museum asserts they were stolen fair and square and will never be returned. Kind of smacks of the Galerie Belvedere's unwillingness to return art the Nazi's stole from Viennese Jews in WWII. 

I think the Greeks should buy Stonehenge from the Scots. Who cares if the Scots don't actually own it? After all Elgin "bought" the marbles from occupying Turks who had no legitimate claim to the Parthenon. 

Stonehenge might look good on Crete? It might last longer out of the rain too.

The Parthenon

After our visit we enjoyed lunch at a restaurant recommended by Lida. I had risotto with wild mushrooms followed by a desert of poached pears with pistachio ice cream. Color me happy.

Our return to the AirBNB was hastened by some huge raindrops ushering in a wild overnight storm.

The Illuminated Acropolis

Next post will be Santorini.

Roadboy's Travels © 2022