London / Venice / Dolomites Part 3: Roadboy Returns to Venice

The World's Most Romantic City 

Capital of a 1000 Year Maritime Empire

I first visited Venice in 1974. I was 17 and the trip was my introduction to Europe. I financed the trip through three years working till 2:30 am at minimum wage as a parking lot attendant (babysitting some pretty famous drunks) in Oakland's Jack London Square. 

Our month long student tour crisscrossed Europe and was patiently chaperoned annually by Pege Rankin (Skyline High School's formidable journalism teacher). One of our most memorable stops was Venice. 

The 1974 trip in retrospect came at strategic time the history of Italy. The nation still displayed the residual signs of the economic damage inflicted during WWII. It's status was reflected by its very currency, the fragile Lira. In 1974 Italy couldn't even afford to mint enough coins for circulation. So merchants gave change in telephone tokens, apples, Zots candy, and/or whatever seemed appropriately fungible. Vaporetto cashiers routinely short changed tourists and even basic things like safe tap water could not be taken for granted.

In fact it was in Venice that I learned (the hard way) what happens when tap water is not potable. After a big snifter of delicious lemonade I was immediately beset with a gastrointestinal emergency requiring my desperate race back to the convent we were staying in. 

Upon arrival the stern sister guarding the convent door was clearly not initially convinced by the urgency of my delicate predicament.

A half century, and many return trips later, I find Venice still to be performing a high wire act balancing beauty with fragility. But its tap water is now safe to drink.

The fact that Venice stands at all is nothing short of a miracle. Human habitation in the lagoon dates back to the 10th century BC. The Commune of Venice of today consists of 118 small islands in a tidal lagoon at the top of the Adriatic bound together by more than 400 bridges. 

Venice, as a sovereign global power, reached its zenith more than 600 years ago. During the middle ages and Renaissance it was one of the world's most important financial and maritime powers and its global influence on architecture and art last to this day.

However, Venice's sovereign status was ended by Napoleon in 1797. In 1866 Venice joined the Kingdom of Italy. 

Yet against formidable odds Venice endures.

It's foundations endure the relentless pummeling delivered by the massive ships and watercraft that bring it economic life. 

It's buildings endure subsidence as they slowly settle into the silt of a lagoon that endures the increasing Acqua Alta (severe tides) brought on by global warming. 

And, each year, it endures 20-30 million visitors eager to experience its history and magic. 

Many visitors seem to arrive oblivious to the fact that it is home to 51,000 permanent residents who struggle to preserve its legacy while watching precious housing stock get monetized into short term rentals.

As I'm averse to crowds, I now limit visits to the off season. Why go in the summer when it is hot, humid, and overcrowded? 

That is just plain nuts.

In fact, one of my most memorable visits was in mid-winter. On that trip, while all bundled up, we found a Venice that was almost eerily quiet and peaceful. It's misty lagoons were filled with tightly covered gondolas rocking gently patiently waiting for spring.

Yet I always return. 

Perhaps because there is nowhere on earth like Venice. At every turn I find so much to discover. Just a random dip into any little church can deliver artworks by Titian, Tiepolo, Tintoretto, or Veronese. Venetian Campo's are filled with music, the joys of everyday life, and young couples arriving to be married in this most romantic of cities.   

Evening on The Grand Canal From the Rialto Bridge 

 

Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore

(Viewed from the Top of the Campanile of Saint Mark)*

Evening Traffic in Calm Venetian Canals*

Pizza San Marco

(Viewed from San Giorgio Maggiore)*

The original Campanile was begun in the 900's and was altered continuously. It finally reached its full height in 1514. It's top was redesigned numerous times and bells were added incrementally. The Campanile served as part of a fortification system built to provide views and signal advance warning of approaching adversaries.  

In 1902, however, without warning the entire original Campanile crumbled to the Piazza. So the Campanile seen today is actually a replica completed in 1912.

The Triumphal Quadriga*

The majestic "bronze" horses that adorn Saint Marks are also replicas of the originals and both the originals (moved into the basilica for preservation purposes) and the replicas are actually almost pure copper. 

The original horses likely date back to the second or third century. They were looted from Constantinople in 1204. The looters had to removed the heads of the horses to transport them. Collars were added to conceal the marks made to cut the heads. When Napoleon arrived in 1797 he felt obliged to steal them again. They were returned to Venice in 1815.

Piazza San Marco

(From the Campanile)*

Probably the most photographed site in Venice is Piazza San Marco. It is the historic center of Venetian culture, religion, commerce, and governance.  It is home to the Doge's Palace, the Bridge of Sighs, and is Venice's only Piazza. All other open spaces in Venice are smaller and referred to as Campo (fields).

 Gondola Fèrro*

(the six pointed counterbalance blade found on every gondola)

Gondola's serve as Venice's iconic mode of transport. Now completely in the domain of honeymooners and tourists. 

 

The actual gondola's themselves are amazing. These flat bottom watercraft are designed with uneven sides to provide leverage to the agile, striped shirted, gondoliers that ply Venetian canals. These meticulously maintained and heavily ornamented boats (whose average cost runs $38,000) are still crafted in Venice. Gondoliers adhere to a directional system for each canal and are deft at continuously ducking below the many bridges they cross under.

A few blissful days here allowed me to obliterate my daily step count and enjoy a few Select spritzes. Select is the Venetian aperitif dating back to 1920. Select spritzes are a nice alternative to the Campari and Aperol versions. Although formulated about the same way (prosecco and soda), Select spritzes are garnished by a green olive instead of an orange slice. A bottle of Select became my souvenir of this trip.

After an all too short visit, it was time to join cycling buddies at Marco Polo Airport to board a shuttle up the mountains to Cortina d'Ampezzo to begin a few days of cycling in the Dolomites (or Dolomiti to the Italians). 

Part 4: Cycling the Dolomites to follow.

 

Roadboy's Travels © 2023

* Many thanks to Steven Bay for photographs noted above.

London / Venice / Dolomites Part 2: London The National Gallery

Exploring Britain's National Gallery

Although I've made many visits to London and Trafalgar Square (including the days when it was overrun by pigeons!) I've never before had the opportunity to visit Britain's National Gallery (whose imposing facade completes Trafalgar Square). 

I am very glad to say I corrected that oversight during this visit.

The current National Gallery, designed by William Wilkins, opened in 1838. The building was initially subjected of scorn due to its location between wealthy and poor neighborhoods (London elites at the time felt it should be in a more regal neighborhood). Also the Trafalger Square site limited the Gallery to a long and narrow footprint.

Over the years it has been subject to numerous piecemeal renovations and additions (including one by American Post Modernists Robert Venturi and Denise Scott Brown). Today the only remnant of the Wilkins design that remains intact is the facade.  

The National Gallery

The gallery showcases some 2300 masterpieces from the mid-thirteenth century to 1900. I really appreciated its relatively modest size and perfectly illuminated interiors. Unlike mega museums like the Louvre or the Hermitage, this gallery doesn't require a multi-day commitment to enjoy its offerings. And it houses some breathtaking art including paintings by Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Picasso and Van Gogh (including his Sunflowers.)

During WWII its treasures had to be relocated to limestone caves in Wales (after Churchill chafed at a plan to temporarily relocate them to Canada.) I loved that while the gallery was empty it was used for noontime musical performances since London's Music Halls had to remain closed.   

Here are some of my favorite paintings in the collection.

Bathers at Asnières

(Georges Seurat 1884)

When Impressionist art was becoming important, the National Gallery acquired pieces timidly. Many in charge of acquisitions at the time felt that Impressionism was not serious art and just a passing fad. 

Although painted in 1884, the Seurat painting "Bathers at Asnières" was purchased almost 40 years later.

Portrait of a Young Man

(Sandro Botticelli approx. 1480-85)

Probably best known for "Venus on the Halfshell" in the Uffizi in Florence, I found this simple Botticelli painting to be engaging. Despite the paining being 500+ years old it captures the timeless look of youth and innocence. 

Another Impressionist favorite of mine was a painting of fisherman by Joaquin Sorolla. When I first came upon one of Sorolla's paintings in Madrid's Prado a decade ago it evoked an immediate emotional response from me. 

I welcomed the chance to see another example of his work.

Valencian Fishermen

(Joaquin Sorolla 1895)

Moving on I came upon George Stubbs enormous, and impossible to miss, painting entitled "Whistlejacket". This much adored painting is majestically positioned at the end of one of the National's longest gallery's. 

Stubbs painted Whistlejacket without a rider against a blank background to focus all of the energy of the painting on the Arabian stallion. 

Leaping and looking over his shoulder at the viewer Whistlejacket is one of those paintings that is simply magnetic. It draws people to it.

Whistlejacket

(George Stubbs about 1762)

Perhaps two of the biggest draws in the National Gallery are Vincent van Gogh's "A Wheatfield, with Cypresses" and "Sunflowers". I was particularly taken by "A Wheatfield, with Cypresses" after visiting the very site in St. Remy where Van Gogh painted it. His art in St. Remy was therapy while he underwent psychological treatment in the asylum that is till there.

A Wheatfield, with Cypresses

(Vincent van Gogh 1889) 

I also found the "Arnolfini Portrait" of interest.

 The Arnolfini Portrait

(Jan van Eyck 1434)

I have to wonder if Grant Woods might have been influenced by this painting when he created his "American Gothic". There is just something just so stark and formal in the way Jan van Eyck portrayed the wealthy Italian merchant couple in Bruges. I also love the little dog at their feet and how the mirror behind the Arnolfini's lets you see that they are welcoming arriving guests (maybe explaining the raised hand as a gesture of greeting). 

Also note the stenciling above the mirror where Jan van Eyck signed his portrait.

The Mirror Detail

As my afternoon in the Gallery neared its end it was clear the gallery had taken its toll on some younger visitors.    

Youthful Gallery Fatigue

As our short visit to London was drawing to a close my love for London just grew seeing how each district is so individual and celebrated; whether it is the lanterns of Chinatown or seeing the knight watching a bridge in The City viewed on our walk back to the Elizabeth Line.

The Lanterns of London's Chinatown

Knights and Dragons Guarding a Bridge

Next destination is Part 3: Venice.

 

Roadboy's Travels © 2023

London / Venice / Dolomites Part 1: London Shopping, Tina, the Elizabeth Line, and the NPG

Even More to Love About London 

Part 1

During Roadboy's visit to London last year a few things that just felt a little off. 

The National Portrait Gallery (NPG), was still closed, the nation was on death watch for the Queen, and the Fourth Plinth in Trafalger Square sat empty. 

 Trafalger Square at Night

This year London felt better. 

The NPG was open, is still free, and welcomes visitors until 9:00 pm on Saturdays 😉!  We booked tickets for the musical Tina, enjoyed the gleaming new Elizabeth Line from Heathrow, and Trafalger Square's Fourth Plinth has a new installation entitled "Antelope". 

The Clean and Quick Elizabeth Line

This years visit to London was a layover stop on my way to Italy to join with friends to cycle in the Dolomites. But, after AA began non-stop service from Phoenix to London Heathrow, I stopped my usual entry flights to Madrid and now begin my European trips into/through London. Also with the post Brexit Pound Sterling in a freefall against the dollar, London pricing doesn't come with the sting it used to.

With time short, London offered us a little shopping and a full day at the NPG (followed by a nearly full day in its neighbor the National Gallery).

Awaiting Tina

With the recent passing of Tina Turner in May, I really wanted to see Tina the tribute to her life. The London edition was high energy and truly amazing. The audience began swaying almost immediately and finished on its feet for multiple curtain calls. Don't miss Tina.

 

Selfridges 

Shopping trends change all the time in London and the current hot date for fashionistas seems to be Liberty. Tourists will always flock to Harrod's ("Horrids" to locals) but to actually buy stuff I used to go to John Lewis. This trip locals were lamenting that John Lewis has taken a steep dive in service and quality and should be avoided. The other store that used to define style was Harvey Nichols, but it sort of feels frozen in some previous decade.

Selfridges is London's grand department store created by American Henry Gordon Selfridge in 1909. Prior to this trip I hadn't set foot in Selfridges for over thirty years. Even in an era of declining brick and mortar retail stores I found Selfridge's pretty spectacular this visit. It still has the massive deco entry and features restaurants, a plush theater, lots of designer studios, a bike shop(!) and some truly stratospheric prices. Not the place I'd normally buy much, but certainly an experience.

Selfridges Grand Art Deco Entry 

 

 Brass Staff Tribute to Selfridge

Cowboy Bikes

While walking through Selfrdiges bike shop I was taken by Cowboy bikes. These are practical well priced and gracefully integrated commuter e-bikes. They'd be a perfect choice for urban commuters. They include fully integrated running lights, racks, fenders and anti-theft tracking devices. If I were lucky enough to live in London a Cowboy is likely what I'd use for my commute.  

Right around the corner from Selfridge's we found Market Hall Oxford and stopped for lunch. My Thai chicken sandwich from Sexy Buns along with a bottle of good Cawston Press cider was a perfect lunch.

Sexy Buns and Cawthorn Press Cider

 

The NPG

OK, for American's who have explored the Smithsonian National Portrait Gallery in Washington DC, you already know how mesmerizing a fine portrait gallery can be. But Britain's NPG is in a class of its own. I first visited it decades ago all these many years later I once again became immersed in its portraits and photographs all organized by time periods. There is even a gallery with death masks.

Annie Lennox

(Peter Ashworth 1983)

This iconic image of Lennox ultimately became the cover for the Eurythmics first number one album Touch. Seeing this image just made me feel young again as the tune Sweet Dreams are Made of This just rolled right into my head reminding me of a time when the endless possibilities of my life seemed to be in front of me. Nearby was this 1985 photo of George Michael in full heart throb swagger.

George Michael

(John Swannell 1985)

Sir Cliff Richard

(Norman Parkinson 1960's)

Such a great photo of Britain's "Elvis" on the beach leaning impossibly back onto the hood of a gorgeous Corvette Stingray. While few American's have ever heard of him, Richard made his mark globally and landed on Britain's Top 5 charts consecutively for seven decades.

Henry Moore

(Lee Miller 1941)

This striking photo just stopped me in my tracks. Here is Britain's most famous mid-twentieth century sculptor Henry Moore wearing a pair of killer slacks in a London underground shelter during the Blitz as part of his role for the War Artists Committee.

It was very close to this elegantly composed sleek black and white portrait of Sir Noël Coward with that impossibly elegant cigarette.

Sir Noël Coward

(Horst B. Horst 1933)

As I went on through the gallery I just adored this stark oil on canvas portrait of Judi Dench. She seems to be floating in a lab coat during a blizzard.

Dame Judi Dench

(Alessandro Raho 2004)

As I was just finishing up my time in the NPG I came to a little room filled with life and death masks. I found them somehow startling in the realization they were also portraits. In this last gallery was Gillian Wearing's Mask Masked. Despite morons that still try to ignore its impact and very existence, this sculpture simply and unambiguously reminds us of the tragic loss of 7,000,000 humans to the Coronavirus pandemic.

Mask Masked

(Gillian Wearing 2020)
 

London 2023 Part 2 to follow. 

 

Roadboy's Travels © 2023

Ready to Pedal - The Dolomites!

A Meet Up in Venice and Off We Go!

Roadboy prepares for a spin in Italy. 

For over three decades my home has been Phoenix AZ and every summer we Phoenicians lament about how hot it is and how we wish we were somewhere else (usually San Diego). 

Then the summer of 2023 came and we just tried to survive our record breaking stupid hot summer. 

Luckily, I was able to bookend the summer with cycling trips to cool places. In June I cycled Canada's Vancouver Island. Now I finish summer with a cycle trip to Italy's Dolomites (the necklace of mountains seen from Venice).

The Valley's of the Dolomites (Photo VBT) 

My trip will begin with American's nonstop service from Phoenix to London. 

I love this flight. 

It is arguably, AA's only international flight that consistently avoids AA's various delay machines (sometimes referred to as DFW, JFK, CLT, ORD, MIA and PHL). 

AA's management model is to develop hubs in places that induce delays to their whole system / network of flights. Coincidentally, as I compose this a friend just texted me his Kansas City flight this evening is hopelessly delayed (thanks to a connection in DFW). 

The PHX to LHR 777 allows you to just get on, spread out, have a nice dinner, watch a couple of movies and wake up in Great Britain.

Sweet.

The London routing offers me a few days to layover, tame jetlag, see a couple of west end shows and (this trip) take in the newly reopened National Portrait Gallery.

Then I'll fly BA from LHR to Venice (was only $85). I'll have three days to explore Venice before the bike trip begins. Venice is my go to place to shop for eyeglass frames 👓. And, this trip will also include a foodie tour with Francesca 🍽️ !

From Venice we have 6 days of cycling packaged by Vermont Bike Tours (VBT). VBT provides shuttles, guides, bikes, hotels and a bunch of meals. It makes the cycling so enjoyable! No worries, just enjoy the rides, the views and the food. We will conclude in Verona.

So watch this space! Roadboy is on the loose again.  

Roadboy's Travel's © 2023

 

Roadboy Cycles Vancouver and Pender Island

Canadian Gulf Islands Tour by Vermont Bike Tours (VBT) 

After a stunning arrival via seaplane into Victoria's Inner Harbor I joined my cycling buddies who had arrived earlier for dinner and a little window shopping (I found an Irish wool hat I had to have) andan obligatory stop at Rogers Chocolates. Then it was off for a great nights sleep.

Victoria's Inner Harbor From The Empress Hotel

 

Cycling Day One:

After a morning walk and a little sightseeing in and around British Columbia's beautiful Provincial Capital, we met our guides Sam and Zuzana for intro's, a bike fitting, and a quick 7 mile warm-up ride through Victoria. 

Similar to Vancouver, Victoria features some very nice separated bike lanes. Along the way we passed the world's tallest Totem Pole (127'-7") and a digital display calculating the number of cyclists using each trail each day, month and year. 

The ride ended early enough we could gather for a welcome reception and dinner. The night was off to a great start for me as one menu choice was (my absolute favorite Alaskan sea treasure) sablefish / black cod. The buttery smooth fish was cooked perfectly. 

 

Cycling Day Two:

In the morning we were shuttled to a rendevous spot near Victoia's airport where we collected our bicycles and took a seaside ride past some very expensive seaside residences on our way the BC Ferry Terminal at Swartz Bay. Here, we boarded the ferry for a sailing to Otter Bay on Pender Island.

 BC Ferry to Pender Island

The sailing was beautiful with smooth waters and blue sunny skies. Upon disembarking on Pender Island we cycled to lunch. From there we were off to Brooks Point where we watched the horizon looking for pods of orca's. Then it was on to check into the lovely Poets Cove Resort and Spa. 

The resort is clearly designed for weddings and my room had an amazing view of the cove and a spot clearly designed for wedding photos. 

 Views Along The Ride to Point Browning

The View From My Room at Poets Cove Resort

 

Cycling Day Three:

In the morning we shuttled to the Port Browning Marina where we were outfitted to spend a few hours sea kayaking. Once we were outfitted and a given safety briefing, we began our paddling along the coast and in Port Browning Harbor.

 

 Sea Kayaking in View of Harbor Seals Sunning on a Nearby Island

Along the way we were joined by some inquisitive seals who followed us along and popped their shimmering silver heads up now and then between our kayaks to check us out. Above us eagles and ospreys soared. 

After the kayaking Sam our guide grilled a wonderful picnic lunch. 

Our Picnic

After lunch Sam provided a bike clinic illustrating basic bike maintenance. I really appreciated the methods he illustrated for reattaching dropped chains (even while moving!), minor derailleur adjustments and changing tubes.

We retraced the route to our hotel in time to swim and soothe muscles in the resorts hot tub.

Afternoon Cycling Back to Poets Cove

View to Mortimer Spit

 

Cycling Day Four:

On day four we were shuttled to Otter Bay to collect our bikes and take the ferry back to Swartz Bay on Vancouver Island. The day included a ride to the Sea Island Cider Mill for a light lunch and a tasting flight of three of their wonderful organic ciders.

 

 Lavender Blooming at the Sea Island Cidery

Our cycling ended at Oak Bay we checked into the wonderful Oak Bay Beach Hotel and Spa. This hotel is truly special (and was recognized by Conde Nast Traveler as Canada's No. 1 hotel in their 2021 Reader's Choice Awards. The rooms were quiet and included fireplaces. The hotel's cozy Snug Pub and its mineral pools and spa all overlook the bay.

The Oak Bay Beach Hotel

Cycling Day Five:

Our last day included our longest rides including 20 miles on the Galloping Goose Bike trail to Victoria's renowned Butchart Gardens (with a gelato stop along the way) and 21 miles back to the Oak Bay. This was probably my third or fourth visit to the stunning Butchart Gardens and everything seemed to be in full dazzling bloom.

 The Sunken Garden (Butchart Gardens)

We returned for a soak in the mineral pools and then dressed for our farewell dinner.    

Oak Beach Bay's Mineral Pools 

(Views of the Chatham and Discovery Island Indian Preserves Beyond)

The tour calls it day six, but in reality the trip is five days which run by fast. So the next morning we gathered in the morning to make our way to whatever means of travel we were respectively using to depart the Island. 

As I have old friends living just across the Straits of Juan de Fuca in Sequim Washington, I left aboard the Black Ball Ferry's Coho in a morning sailing to Port Angeles.

75° temperatures, Canadian hospitality, amazing food and lots of sunshine and blue skies framed a beautiful cycling vacation.

Roadboys Travels © 2023

Cycling Stanley Park / Seaplanes to Victoria

Last Days in Vancouver

I take pride in crafting trips that (whenever possible) avoid any need to rent a car. Except in rural locales, where there are no other options, cars represent the frustration driving in unfamiliar surroundings. 

So traveling to superb multi-modal destinations, like Vancouver, makes me happy. Post EXPO 86 Vancouver knit together a remarkable multi-modal transportation network. There is robust public transport linking everything from the airport to downtown, the cruise ship terminal and a busy seaplane port. A huge advantage Vancouver offers is completely separated bike lanes (complete with separate bike traffic signals). 

It is so wonderful to pedal in the city with more than a white stripe separating your from idiots in cars texting while driving.

For my last full day in Vancouver I rented an e-bike from Cycle City (excellent) for an afternoon spin through Stanley Park.

Stanley Park is one of the very finest urban parks in North America. It is an oasis of calm with stunning views at every turn located next to one of the densest neighborhoods in North America. The park offers a wide and beautiful waterfront trail perfect for leisurely walking and cycling. Spandex clad thigh hammer road bikers can stick to the roadway with the cars.

Cycling Stanley Park Along the Shore

Cycling over the Top of the Lions Gate Bridge

As readers may know, Roadboy loves me some bridges. And the Lions Gate Bridge is one of my favorites. It is a graceful, almost delicate span that softly emerges from the park. Designed by Monsarrat and Pratley of Montréal, the iconic Lions Gate Bridge opened to traffic in 1938. It was "officially" dedicated May 29, 1939 by King George VI and Queen Elizabeth and it remains one of Canada's longest suspension bridges. 

I was surprised to learn that the Guinness Brewing family paid for the bridge during the height of the Great Depression. They needed a link from Vancouver to their residential suburbs in West Vancouver.

In 1955 Vancouver repaid the price of the bridge. It is named for twin peaks in the North Shore Mountains. According to the Canadian Encyclopedia it is about the same length as the Brooklyn Bridge. 

For Expo 86 the Guinness family returned to pay for the installation of the necklace lighting on the bridge.

Although expanded from its original 2 lanes to 3, the bridge is clearly inadequate to address modern traffic. However, the City has resisted making any dramatic changes to the structure.

Sunset from Stanley Park

After my cycle tour of the park I returned to my hotel to pack and prepare for my flight to Victoria the next day.

Seaplane to Victoria

Despite BC's elaborate ferry system the most convenient and easiest (and arguably one of the most scenic) ways to journey from downtown Vancouver to downtown Victoria is via seaplane. The seaplane center is located steps from the Cruiseship terminal at Coal Harbor. Flights to Victoria are provided by Harbour Air. Harbour Air operates the largest all-seaplane fleet in North America.  My flight, in a Canadian built DHC-3 De Haviland Single Otter was smooth but noisy (bring earplugs). Also, be aware luggage is severely limited on these flights. As a result, I upgraded my fare and packed more carefully than usual for this trip.

 

Pilot Readies for Take Off

Roadboy Selfies

Circling Over Vancouver

The Lions Gate and Stanley Park

 Islands Nearing Victoria

 

 

Landing In Victoria's Inner Harbor

The beauty of landing in Victoria's Inner Harbor is in the ability to walk grab my bag and simply walk to my hotel (a really wonderful DoubleTree located right behind the stately Fairmont Empress Hotel).

After meeting up with my cycle friends we found a cafe for some cider and halibut and chips. Then, I was off to sleep. 

In the morning our 5 days of island cycling would begin.

Roadboy's Travels © 2023