Thursday, October 5, 2017

Bicycling The Low Country: Part 1

Days 1-4: Charleston and Beaufort South Carolina

Maintaining a positive outlook on life in 2017 has required extra focus on healthy activities to enrich my mind and regenerate my soul.

And, combining bicycling with travel is medicinal to me.

Last year I was cycling through Spain's Costa Brava. Last July I cycled through Acadia National Park in Maine. With the return of fall I embarked on 6 days of pedaling through the Sea Isles of South Carolina and Georgia.

Of course, this year it was all dependent on whether Hurricane Maria chose to veer east or west. Luckily, she veered east and stayed off the shore of South Carolina and Georgia.

This trip featured rides in and around Charleston, Beaufort (in SC it is pronounced "Bew-furt") and Savannah.

Getting Started
After all 20 of the riders arrived in Charleston and checked into to the lovely Ansonborough Inn, we met our Vermont Bike Tour hosts to be fitted for our Fuji hybrid or road bikes. After a short briefing we tested out our bikes and the GPS based directional systems during a warm-up ride along Charleston's waterfront and through some of its colorful neighborhoods.    

 The Ansonborough Inn

The Ansonborough is a lovingly re-purposed warehouse building near Charleston's Port. Rooms featured high ceilings and lots of heavy timbers. The Inn is loaded with artwork (many featuring canines).  

    Some of the Hotel Dogs        

The ride through Charleston included views of some of its most cherished waterfront real estate. Most of the City is carefully maintained to cherish its historically rich architecture.

Regal Homes Face Charleston's Waterfront.

A Modern Guest House 
Carefully Blended Among Historic Properties 

Similar to New Orleans and Savannah, Charleston is a bit quirky. Down every street there are pocket gardens,  mansions, narrow "shotgun" homes and lots of stories of ghosts. 

Don't Stick Your Bazooka Joe to a Light Pole in Charleston!
(Must be a story how a fine of $1092 came to be established)

Charleston is a one of those fascinating American City's with a turbulent history as a center of the American slave trade, hotbed of secessionist traitor's during the Civil War and now a fully gentrified center of tourism featuring some of the nation's finest restaurants.

A House Approximately 16' Wide
(Real Estate in Charleston's historic district is measured by the inch)

A Walkers Delight Day or Night

Charleston's in City Lake

After our warm-up ride we changed and enjoyed a welcome dinner in Charleston's French Quarter at 24 Queen.

Dinner for me began with a cup of some lusciously rich she-crab soup. Like many meals in this part of the world, it is advisable to have your cardiologist standing by.   


Day 2 Riding through Mount Pleasant, the Isle of Palms and Sullivan's Island
Day 2 began with a ride over the elegant Arthur Ravenel Bridge which led to Mount Pleasant, The Isle of Palms and Sullivan's Island. Along the was was a lunch stop and a visit to Fort Moultrie. 

The Bike Lane on the Ravanel Bridge

On the Isle of Palms we witnessed the effects of Hurricane Maria as it was passing just off shore. The ocean was filled with anger delivering waves that were chillingly close to many of the multi-million dollar homes lining the ocean's edge.

A Modern Beach Home
(Many are elevated a full story to anticipate for hurricane surges)

We had a beachfront lunch while surfers were out in abundance to ride Maria's enormous waves.

Our 29.7 mile ride continued to Fort Moultrie National Monument. This fort played roles from the War of Independence all the way through World War II. It keeps an eye on nearby Fort Sumter. 

Unlike the risky (reckless) oceanfront homes found on the Isle of Palms, Sullivan's Island avoids beachfront development.

 
Day 3 The Angel Oak and Cycling Wadmalaw Island
After breakfast on day three we said goodbye to Charleston. We made a stop on St. John's Island to visit the enormous "Angel Oak" and then take a 16 mile ride on Wadmalaw Island. We then shuttled to a new hotel in Beaufort.
Off to Beaufort

 A Group Photo at the Angel Oak

The age of the Angel Oak is a source of much discussion but it is generally agreed to be at least 400 years old. The Oak's trunk measures 28 feet in circumference with canopy branches spanning 187 feet from end to end. The tree delivers shade to 17,200 square feet. 

From the Angel Oak we departed for the Charleston Tea Plantation. This is the only remaining tea plantation in production in North America. Initially developed by Lipton Tea (at a time when they feared access to China's tea might be in peril), it is now owned by the Bigelow Tea Company.

The plantation grows the American Classic tea served at the the White House.

North America's Only Tea Plantation

Before the tour I had no idea that Oolong, Black and Green Tea all come from the same plant. The difference is just in how long the tea leaves are dried.  Although I'm not a big tea drinker, I found the sample teas presented here to be pretty wonderful.
 
Butterflies Everywhere

Throughout the week of riding we were surrounding by butterflies of seemingly all colors and sizes. Nowhere were they in more profusion than on Wadmalaw.

We completed the day's ride at the Firefly Distillery / Deep Water Vineyard where samples were available for tasting.

After checking in at the lovely Beaufort Inn we dressed for an elegant dinner at Beaufort's wonderful Saltus restaurant. I loved this dinner. For me it began with steamed mussel's, moved on to a great steak and then finished off with panna cotta topped with peach puree. 

 
A View of Beaufort

Day 4 St. Helena Island and The Penn Center
On day four we left the hotel for a 35 mile ride beginning at the history rich Penn Center on St. Helena Island. This became sort of a home base for the day as we went on to ride a large loop and then return to the Penn Center for a picnic lunch.

At the time of the civil war there were some 1,300 whites and 14,000 enslaved individuals in and around Beaufort.

The region was brought under Union control in 1861. As plantation owners fled the region, abolitionist missionaries from Philadelphia founded the Penn Center as the first school in the Southern states to be specifically devoted to the education of African-Americans. 

Over the years the 47 acre center has played a vital role in education and preservation of the Gullah tradition and culture of the region. In the 1960's it hosted Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. for retreats and now offers a museum, conference and cultural center.

After checking in at the Penn Center we began our ride encircling St. Helena Island. First stop for me was the ruins of the 1740 era Anglican Chapel of Ease.
 
 The Chapel of Ease

Like much of the early architecture of the region the chapel is built of mixture of cement and oyster shells locally referred to as "tabby". The chapel itself was burned in a forest fire in 1886.

Tabby Construction

The quiet ride took us past vast marshes, an egret sanctuary and lots of farms.  

Rivers of Grass

The end of the day included a walking tour of Beaufort and dinner in a local pub.

The next post will include the final leg of the trip to Savannah and an afternoon kayaking on Ebenezer Creek.


Roadboy's Travels © 2017

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