Scary Big!
After more than 24 hours of travel we crashed like the Titanic.
But, never underestimate the medicinal value of a long warm shower and a good nights sleep. When morning arrived I had to face down the immediate reality of Bangkok's size and complexity. It is perhaps one of the worlds most intimidating cities. It is huge, crowded, choked in traffic, and everything (except traffic) moves at a frantic pace. So my first challenge was to begin the process of getting some food and determining how to get around.
Seeing a 7-11 or Circle K on every corner I began with a trip next door to get the makings for a quick breakfast. After breakfast it was time to start deciphering how to get around.
Here are some transportation basics. It would be complete lunacy to rent a car here. A western driver does not have the skill set to comprehend driving in Bangkok. So abandon any thoughts of that. Here transportation must provided by those who understand its traffic flow.
Bangkok is served by a national rail system, a skytrain (BTS), a subway (MRT), buses (BMTA) and a private airport rail link. For the most part everything is technically integrated yet frustratingly separate. And for everything else there is Grab. We started by riding the Skytrain and noted it has direct connections to MRT stations, except each system doesn't offer any integrated ticketing. So you get off a Skytrain and then must go buy an MRT ticket. Most visitors are astounding how inexpensive transportation is here.
Day One: The Chatuchak Weekend Market
Since we arrived on a weekend, and we could get there on one transport system (the BTS Skytrain), we decided we'd join the 200,000 (mostly local) visitors each weekend to the Chatuchak Market. The market features more than 15,000 market stalls distributed in 27 different sections. The market is a complete fire trap, it makes zero barrier-free accommodations, is a health department nightmare, and a lot of fun.
The BTS
The BTS (Chong Nonsi) stop was just steps a way from our AirBNB, so we purchased tickets from a human at a real ticket booth (BTS vending machines are strictly cash) and waited for the train. We'd need to transfer at Siam Station and then it would be smooth sailing all the way to the market. The market is free and it is quite simply overwhelming. It is divided into 27 sections including clothing (think fake designer goods), housewares, design and decor, fresh food, perfume, serious art, prepared foods, pets, and everything in between.
Fine Silk, Toys, Fabrics, Flowers, Thai Massage
Woodworking and Housewares
Street Food Stalls
Even PJ's for Creepy Aryan Children
Art Studios
I almost left without seeing the art studios and galleries tucked off to the side by one of the major entrances. Glad we ventured back to check them out. Quite simply. the art here was serious, much of it was pretty wonderful.
After most of a day spent lost in the market while experiencing a mild version of Bangkok's legendary wet heat Jetlag became an issue and it was time to call it s day. We detoured into a nearby Tops Market to finish provisioning the AirBNB.
My initial fear of the city melted in a single day thanks to a quick understanding of the safe, efficient, and immaculate BTS system and the warmth of the Thai people living in this human anthill.
Day Two: The Damnoen Saduek Floating Market and the Maeklong Railway Market.
Every time I've researched "Top 10" lists of sights to see in and around Bangkok floating markets seem to be on the list. Somehow I thought that the picturesque river commerce was in the immediate area of the city, but a little research made me realize that while there are many floating markets, all require some traveling distance, so I booked a (very) full day tour that included the Damnoen Saduek Floating Market and the Maeklong Railway Market. So the morning would be spent at the floating market and the afternoon would be spent awaiting the 2:30 PM scheduled arrival of the train into Maeklong station.
The fascinating thing about the rail market is that the railway tracks run literally right through an open air market. So as the train sounds its horn signalling its arrival, merchants must quickly pull back their shade canopies and move merchandise.
Our Guide Lita
The day trip picked us up and we were given an overview description of the floating market. This market was constructed by King Rama IV to connect the Mae Klong and Tha Chin rivers. It was even upgraded for an anticipated visit to Thailand by Queen Elizabeth. In 1971 the Tourism Authority of Thailand decreed the market a tourist attraction. And a first class total tourist attraction (tourist trap) it is. You board long boats in an area reminiscent of Disneyland's Jungle Boat Cruise. Then you motor into a series of canals that get tighter and more crowded the further you go. The boats stop for you to buy coconut ice cream or skewers of meat or mango and sticky rice. And everything comes at a price higher than anywhere else. When we left the boats the land merchants had the same items for about half the price. And if you see something you actually want just look at it seriously. Then ask the price. Then say no I think I'll wait and the price will be dropped in half. I bought a casual linen shirt (that I have worn continuously on the trip) for about $2.
Produce, Flowers, and Street Food (on the water)
Lots of Commerce
Lots of Engine Exhaust
After our time on the floating market it was off to see the railway market. Here timing is everything as the train has a schedule to keep.
First everyone walks the market and gawks at the fish, flowers, produce, and seemingly everything else anyone might have even a passing interest in. The market is narrow and the awnings are low (I smacked my head plenty of times). Then everyone sort of finds their spot to witness the train's arrival. There is a curve so you hear the slowly approaching train before you see it. It is a well choreographed event with the awnings all getting retracted and goods moved out of harms way. Gawkers are warned to stay behind red lines on the sidewalks.
Before the Train
The Train Arrives
As quick as the awnings came down, they go back up for about an hour until the train is ready to depart and the whole well choreographed process is repeated. As for me I was ready to sit indoors in some good old air conditioning. It was time for a cold beer and some mango and sticky rice.
The tour returned us to Bangkok, dropping us at Bangkok's over-the-top shopping center Icon Siam. That is a post of its own.
Roadboy's Travels © 2023
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