Cycling SE Asia 2023 Part 3: A Day at Ayutthaya's Ancient Temples

A Royal Summer Palace, Spectacular Temple Ruins and A Temple of Shopping

When planning this trip one of my goals was to visit Cambodia's famous Siem Reap temple ruins. But knowing Cambodia's political instability, coupled with reports that the famous Angkor Wat site is frequently overrun by tourists left me reconsidering it. Then I researched the reality of air connections from Siem Reap back to Phoenix (abysmal) and started considering alternatives. 

After doing a bit of research I decided a day trip to the Ayutthaya Historical Park near Bangkok offered a great alternative to flying to Cambodia to tour Angkor Wat. We settled on a full day tour that also included a stop at Bang Pa-In Royal Summer Palace.

It turned out to be a very full (and pretty danged hot) day of sightseeing but well worth the time spent. We stopped at three temple sites and walked among some stunning temple ruins. 

After a couple hours drive our tour began at the Bang Pa-In Royal Summer Palace. Originally built by King Prasat Thong in 1632. It fell into disuse in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. In the mid-19th century King Mongkut began a restoration that was continued with most of the major present buildings constructed between 1872 and 1889 by King Chulalongkorn. The architecture is a hodgepodge of whatever Euro monarchist architectural styles were popular during its construction. There are little snippets of Versailles here and there, European statuary etc.

The palace has played host to visiting royal dignitaries, weddings and funerals. But visiting the site requires legs and shoulders to be covered. This resulted in the quick purchase of a pair of baggy elephant pants. At a cost of about $2, they became an instantly cherished souvenir and will serve as a perfect pair of PJ's.

Today, the palace buildings and grounds do not appear to be used much with many demonstrating a state of deferred maintenance. My favorite structure was the Aisawanthipphaya-At Pavilion located on an island in the middle of the palace canals.

 

The Aisawantthippaya-At Pavillion 

 

The palace was also a site of suffering for its builder King Chulalongkorn. In an 1880 journey by boat to the palace, the boat carrying his pregnant nineteen year old wife: Queen Consort Sunandha Kumarirtana and his two year old daughter capsized. Since Thai law at that time strictly forbade subjects from touching a royal (under punishment of death), guards prevented anyone from rescuing them.

Upon departing the Summer Palace we began our day visiting three Ayutthaya temple sites. Ayutthaya was founded in 1350 and was the second capital of the Siamese Kingdom. A center of global diplomacy it is strategically located on an island surrounded by three rivers that connect the city to the sea. It flourished from the 14th to 18th centuries. The city was burned to the ground by the Burmese army in 1767. Although it was never rebuilt, and the capital was moved to Bangkok, Ayutthaya's remains and Prangs (towers) provide an extensive archaeological site and a window into Ayutthaya's past splendors. Ayutthaya is designated as a Unesco World Heritage site.

 

The first site we visited was Wat Chai Mongkon with its reclining Buddha. This site is relatively compact.

Wat Yai Chai Monkon

Phra Buddhasaiyart

The giant 95' reclining Buddha is reclining on its right side with head on a pillow. It symbolizes Buddha in his last illness just before entering parinirvana. The reclining Buddha was draped in gold fabric. This temple structure was the best preserved of the three sites we visited.

Wat Chaiwatthanaram

The next Ayutthaya temple site we visited was the spectacular Wat Chaiwatthanaram. This site borders a river and is very large. Structures here are undergoing restoration due to flood damage. 

Shops directly accross the street from the site offer short-term rental of traditional Thai garments for use by families visiting the site. Seeing Thai families of all ages wearing traditional garments and changing light levels added special character to the site.

Families Taking Photos in Traditional Clothing

 Changing Light and Cloud Patterns

The final Ayutthaya temple stop was Wat Maha That. This site is also quite large. It is known for its enigmatic Buddha head that has been captured over time by tree roots.  

Buddha Head in Tree Roots at Wat Maha That

The tour left me with the understanding that any real exploration of Ayutthaya could take weeks. The durability of the (primarily) brick construction left me in awe of the skill of its designers and builders. 

We crossed the street to eat dinner at street food stands at Ayatthaya's Night Market before the almost 2 hour drive back to Bangkok. The tour concluded at Bangkok's temple of wretched excess the Icon Siam. This is a five story retail mecca where you can buy everything from precious jewels to handbag's from Longchamp or Vuitton, even a new Maserati.

Above five or more levels of stores is a top level food terrace with a 4-story fully programmed drape style circular waterfall. 

The whole Icon Siam complex is set upon the banks of Bangkok's Chao Phraya River with access to ferry boat service. 

A whole day of sensory overload.

The Top Level Terrace Food Hall at Icon Siam 

Icon Siam was the complete opposite of the Chatuchak Weekend Market we visited on our first day. 

The mall somehow illustrates the paradox of Thailand as a nation undergoing political chaos. Last May's free and fair national election resulted in a landslide win for the 47 year old, Harvard-educated reformist and pro-democracy candidate, Pita Limjaroenrat. To date the military-appointed senate has prevented him from taking office. Much like many nations of the world Thailand's "Haves" would rather not cede an inch to the nation's "have nots".

To see such a luxurious mall serving a small population with immense concentrated wealth in a nation where the average annual total take home wage is only $7,000 underscores the extreme discrepancy in wealth inequality present here.

Thailand, a country I found to be filled with gracious people and known as the "Land of Smiles" appears destined be headed for rough seas.

So much more to explore in Thailand, but the morning brings a flight to Vietnam.

Roadboy's Travels © 2023