Monday, September 26, 2016

Fireworks, Human Pyramids and Dancing in the Street

Day 3 Sunday - A Day to Crash a Party in Barcelona

When my biological-clock awakened me early Sunday morning I decided to get up (rather than submit to a strong desire to roll over and try to catch a few more zzz's). I then used the time to wander around the area near the hotel.

For locals, Sunday's in Spain are reserved for family and many smaller stores remain closed until Monday. Even during La Merce, Barcelona kicks down a notch or two in the morning. And, instead of the usual throngs, there was just me, City trash crews and police officers on Las Ramblas.

Upon reaching the Plaza Reial I found a pervasive smell of sidewalk bleach, an iconic fountain (still switched off in night mode) and a whole bunch of sellers setting up for a Sunday Flea Market.

The Sunday Flea Market Begins

 The Paza Reial Fountain Hadn't Begun Operating

Now it was time to return to the hotel to enjoy a (pretty darned wonderful) Sunday Champagne brunch buffet. 

Rested and (very) well fed, it was time to begin a full day of exploring Barcelona during La Merce. And, now contrary to my early morning walk, Barcelona's  streets were beginning to get crowded.

First stop was the Cathedral where teams of all ages were performing traditional dance in large circles accompanied by a full band.

Dance Groups at the Cathedral

Then, we made our way (with seemingly everyone in the city) to Plaza Sant Jaume where there were teams creating human pyramids.  

 Crowds at Arriving to See The Human Stacks

 The Human Stacks

With crowds now reaching "overwhelming", we opted for some creative meandering to window shop, see the "giants" (the big iconic statues and beasts that are essential to La Merce parades) eventually arriving at the waterfront that afforded a chance to rest and watch the crowds from an outdoor cafe. 

 The Giants

More Giants

One of Many Human Sculptures

We returned to the hotel for a swim in the hotels almost ethereal basement spa pool. Recharged we sought out dinner (awesome hamburgers). We watched the crowds heading to the Fire Runs in their goggles and hats (I decided I was prepared enough to safely participate in that).

Finally, after sunset, La Merce 2016 ended with a spectacular pyrotechnical display at the Plaza De Espana which we were able to see from the hotel's roof top bar.

Fireworks Illuminating MontJuc's National Art Museum

It would be hard to have a more wonderful day in one of the world's best cities.

Roadboy's Travels © 2016

Saturday, September 24, 2016

Barcelona & La Merce

Day 2 
The Palau and La Merce

This morning I had a really lovely breakfast in my hotel in Madrid. Then it was time for my Vueling (pronounced "Welling") flight to Barcelona. 

 55 Minutes of Vueling Pain

Like many budget flights my knees were collateral damage. Recaro must be blamed for the most uncomfortable aviation seat ever created.  People literally screamed around me whenever any seat reclined.

Hola Barcelona!
Upon arrival in Barcelona I was met by a VBT (Vermont Bicycle Tours) representative for our shuttle to our hotel (Hotel 1898 La Ramblas).  

Now, when it comes to hotels Roadboy can be a bit hard to impress. But I can certainly attest that Hotel 1898 (built from the old Philippine Tobacco Company Office Building) is a beautiful hotel in a perfect location.  At the hotel I met up my biking buddy Beth who had arrived from Virginia.

Luck of Timing - La Merce!
When we selected bike tour dates last year, we could not be aware that they would align with Barcelona's biggest annual street festival "La Merce". This 5-day festival (celebrating the Patron Saint of Barcelona) has been held since 1902 to signal the end of summer / beginning of fall. 

To keep crowds manageable specific festival dates are not announced until early September. So our luck (in timing) was amazing. La Merce culminates with streets filled with parades, building illuminations and dazzling Correfocs (fire runs); where devils and giant dragons spray the crowds that line the Via Laietana with sparks, water and candy. An early fire run is tame for children, the later run is "at your own risk" with spectators strongly advised to wear hats, goggles, cover all skin possible and avoid any synthetic clothing.

The Correfocs Fire Runs
(Image of a previous Correfoc from the official La Merce Festival Brochure) 

The Palau
In past visits to Barcelona I've toured The Palace of Catalan Music (known locally simply as "The Palau"), but none coincided with a concert to experience the acoustics of the hall. So a highlight of this visit was the chance to attend a concert of classical guitar and flamenco.

 
The Palau at Night

The Palau is a one-of-a-kind classical theater space where immersive art and architecture are merged to create the wholeI can't help compare it to contemporary theaters that value being devoid of all ornamentation.

If architecture of each era synthesizes the values of the era itself (with a few exceptions such as Gehry and Hadid), I am confident history will certainly judge much current modern architecture as dull and vacuous.

 
 The Stage Area

 The Palau's Stained Glass Ceiling

 Side Chandeliers

 The Maestro's Mugging with Guests

Barcelona's clock is set late. Restaurants serve dinner from 9:00 pm to midnight and concerts begin at 9:00 pm. So at the end of each day you find yourself realizing that it is already tomorrow and you simply crash.


Roadboy's Travels © 2016

Friday, September 23, 2016

Get 'Em Together!

Get Instant Reciprocal Elite Status Between Starwood and Marriott

Hola, just a short note before Roadboy crashes.

I linked my Starwood and Marriott FF stay accounts today.  Was very please to see that my Marriott Platinum status was instantly given reciprocity with Starwood! It goes the other way too!

So if you have status with either get 'em linked. In the future when the programs are merged points earned under with program will also combine. 

Another nice bene. Starwood lets you link to Uber and get Starwood points on every ride. As much as I find myself using Uber nowadays, that is awesome too.

So while airline FF programs just get crappier, these two hotel chains seem to still value the loyatly of road warriors.


Roadboy's Travels © 2016

Sunrise Over Madrid

Arrival in Madrid and A Day to Crush Jetlag

So far everything went smoothly on this years journey to Spain.  Lots of AA points were shed in order for me to experience American's Business Class on their 767 (JFK to Madrid).  

Side Note: Business Class delivers access to American's Executive Lounge at JFK (which is utilizing temporary digs while it undergoes a much overdue facelift at JFK). I can confirm AA Lounges continue to serve up really mediocre "green eggs and ham" snacks. Hey AA, when your signature dish is gouda cheese soup that has been sitting in a kettle for hours......

Yuk.

767 Business Class Pod to Madrid

While American's 767 biz class pods offer a full lay-flat bed mode, the actual seating is way too narrow (which then makes the actual sleeping position a challenge). AA's pods just don't measure up when compared to most other international carrier configurations. I sure miss those "Envoy" pods that US Airways use to offer. 

AA"s In-flight entertainment is also lame. They still go through a time consuming drill of distributing Samsung tablets in lieu of installing built-in entertainment systems. The whole process is clunky and seems to always include a lecture about losing something. And, then when they get all set up you find out they are loaded with a truly marginal selection of movies. 

The tablets also lack a flight progress setting. I miss being able to see where we are and monitor our evolving ETA whenever I want.



Landing at Sunrise 
Madrid


We had a major tailwind and arrived early enough to see the sunrise over Madrid and it was spectacular. The Sun was rising and the sky was on fire.

Although my bike trip begins and ends in Barcelona (which also has a nice airport), I love flying into Madrid. In fact, I like flying into the EU via Madrid to get to almost anywhere. Period. 

Madrid's airport is just wonderful. Immigration is a snap. There are lots of flights with frequent connections to anywhere in Europe. And from Madrid, connection prices to hop to Rome or Venice or Paris or London are really inexpensive. Plus, I really love Madrid. It is such an under rated city. The Prado is wonderful, the food is amazing and its residents are cosmopolitan and (when approached for directions) are really willing to help and smile.

I also love the Madrid Airport Hilton. I've stayed many times over the years. It offers a free shuttle to / from the airport, is walking distance to a Metro stop, offers an amazing breakfast and just seems to be consistently wonderful. It also has a great indoor / outdoor pool and the rooms are large and quiet.

 My JetLag Recovery Unit

Well time for bed. I'm off to Barcelona in the morning (highlights tomorrow include a walking tour with the day finished with a classical guitar / flamenco performance at the Palace of Catalan Music).


Roadboy's Travels © 2016

Monday, September 19, 2016

Bicycling The Costa Brava

Another Two Wheeled Adventure

Roadboy completed final packing last weekend as I am about to embark (next week) on a bike trip in Spain.

My itinerary begins with a flight to Madrid where I'll arrive early in the am, shower and take a swim in the indoor / outdoor pool at the Madrid Airport Hilton.

I really like flying into Madrid and taking my jetlag days there. Typically I just rest / relax and perhaps make a quick trip into the centro. 

Saturday morning I'll take a quick hop on a Vueling flight to Barcelona to join the rest of the bike tour.  There will be two sightseeing days in Barcelona with an evening performance of classical guitar and flamenco at the spectacular Palace of Catalonian Music (The Palau).

Then we catch an AVE (high speed rail) trip north to Girona where the bicycle tour will begin. There will be 6 days of bicycling with distances up to 22 miles each day. Highlights will be Roman ruins, a trip to Gaia's (Dali's wife) castle, rides along the Mediterranean all finished off with a cruise.

The group will then be transported back to Barcelona to overnight before return flights home.

The weather should be mild and sunny!

Stay tuned.


Roadboy's Travel's © 2016

Sunday, September 18, 2016

Roadboy Visits Arcosanti


Bells in Utopia

In 1949 Italian architect Paolo Soleri journeyed to Arizona to study under Frank Lloyd Wright at Wright's Taliesin Fellowship program.  He spent time in Spring Green Wisconsin at Taliesin East and at Taliesin West in Scottsdale.

The Taliesin program espoused Wright's philosophy of design in harmony with nature using indigenous materials. The Fellowship experience was presented in a commune type environment where students lived and worked. 

Soleri returned to Italy in 1950 to plan a ceramics factory. The synthesis of his experiences culminated in his eventual purchase of property in nearby Paradise Valley Arizona where, in 1959, he began Cosanti Studios where began one of his lifetime activities casting elaborate wind bells.

Examples of Cosanti Bells

Soleri, went on to create and refine his own philosophy of habitat based architecture which he titled "Arcology". His ideas found worldwide acceptance and led to his creation of Arcosanti; a living habitat laboratory near Cordes Junction Arizona where he could test his ideas.

 A Soleri Model Illustrating an Arcology Type Comunity
Arcosanti grew mainly through the use of student volunteers becoming a place where architects and allied artists could gather to explore Soleri's principals.
Although Soleri passed away in 2013 his legacy lives on. At any given time between 60-100 residents still live and work at Arcosanti. I won't try to present detailed information about Paolo Soleri as it is readily available on Wikipedia.

 Arcosanti's Amphitheater

I will note that it is clear that no major expansion of Arcosanti has taken place in the past since 1989, Arcosanti still hosts a variety of education and cultural activities along with the on-going casting of Soleri's unique and beautiful Cosanti bells.

An Arcosanti Residence

Large Wind Cooled Outdoor Activity Spaces

 Our Tour Guide From Brazil Demonstrates Casting Beds for the Bells

 Arcosanti's Foundry

 Some Cosanti Bell Molds
One of the Cosanti Metal Tiles

A Large Cosanti Bell

Arcosanti is an easy drive from Phoenix and tours are offered nearly every day of the year.  The bells, tiles and handicrafts offered make wonderful gifts.

Arcosanti is a fascinating place to visit, but to me it felt like it is still frozen in a strangely Utopian Idyll circa 1980.  Be aware that the last couple of miles of the approach road is washboard gravel (not suitable for a precision automobile), so take the SUV.

For more information on Arcosanti click here.


Roadboy's Travels © 2016 

Tuesday, July 26, 2016

Are You Ready? Okay, Lets Roll.


The Flight 93 Memorial


Where do heroes come from?


On September 11, 2001 Captain Jason Dahl and First Officer LeRoy Homer Jr. joined flight attendants Lorraine Bay, Sandra Bradshaw, Wanda Green, CeeCee Lyles and Deborah Welsh in boarding a Boeing 757 aircraft in Newark NJ bound for San Francisco.

These career United Airlines flight professionals had no way of knowing the flight for which they were preparing was destined to become a resolute and enduring symbol of heroism in its most pure form. Flight 93 would come to symbolize two of America's most cherished values - democracy and self-sacrifice.

As the passengers boarded 4 were hijackers with the goal of weaponizing the flight. They entered the plane intent on using Flight 93 to destroy symbols sacred to Americans.

At 8:00 AM Flight 93 backs away from its gate. It is delayed, held due to airport congestion. 

At 8:42 AM  Flight 93 lifts off.

At 8:46 AM  Flight 11 flies into the North Tower of the World Trade Center.

At 9:03 AM  Flight 175 flies into the South Tower of the World Trade Center.

At 9:24 AM  United Flight Dispatcher Ed Ballinger messages Flight 93 warning of hijack risks. 

At 9:26 AM  Flight 93 confirms receipt of Ballinger's warning.

At 9:28 AM  First Officer Homer radio's "Mayday, Mayday! Get Out!" amidst the sound of violence in the cockpit. It is followed 35 seconds later with "Mayday! Mayday! Get out of here! We're all gonna die here!" 

Hijackers move all passengers to the very rear of the aircraft.

At 9:30 AM  Passengers, now grouped in the back of the aircraft, begin the first of 35 calls using the airplane's airphones along with 2 cell phone calls. Tom Burnett makes several calls to his wife. His wife tells him airplanes have crashed into the World Trade Center.

At 9:31 AM  As the pilot and first officer lay wounded and / or dying, the plane is now under the control of one of the hijackers.

Before losing control of the cockpit, however, Captain Dahl is able to activate the aircraft's autopilot system and switch radio communications to be heard by Cleveland Center.

The hijacker's first announcement meant for the passengers is instead broadcast to Cleveland Center. In the background of that transmission flight attendant (believed to be Debbie Welsh) is heard struggling with a hijacker who chillingly announces "Everything is fine. I finished".

At 9:35 AM  Flight Attendant Sandra Bradshaw calls United maintenance to alert them of the hijacking and that a passenger and member of the flight crew have been stabbed.

At 9:37 AM  Flight 77 hits the Pentagon.

Passenger and crew calls confirm for them the fate of the World Trade Center and the Pentagon. Flight 93's few minutes of ground delay has allowed its passengers the ability to surmise the true knowledge of its intended mission.  All now understand their aircraft is part of a suicide mission.

At 9:37 AM Mark Bingham calls his mother telling her the plane has been hijacked by men claiming to have a bomb. Simultaneously Jeremy Glick calls his wife telling her his flight has been hijacked. Glick's call remains connected until the plane crashes. During the call he tells his wife the passengers and remaining crew have voted to "rush" the hijackers.

At 9:43 AM  Joseph DeLuca calls his father and Todd Beamer attempts to call his wife. Instead Beamer reaches GTE operator Lisa D. Jefferson. 

The hijackers reprogram the plane to fly toward Reagan Airport.



The Route of Flight 93

At 9:50 AM  Flight Attendant Sandra Bradshaw calls her husband telling him she is preparing scalding water to throw at the hijackers. She passes the phone to Honor Elizabeth Wainio.

At 9:55 AM  Bradshaw returns on line to tell her husband that "Everyone is running up to first class, I have to go. Bye"

At 9:57 AM  Wainio tells her stepmother "I have to go they are breaking into the cockpit, I love you". Tod Beamer, during his call with Operator Jefferson, asks her to contact his family, recites the Lord's Prayer and 23rd Psalm, ending his call with the muffled words to his fellow passengers "Are you ready? Okay, let's roll"

The hijacker's now realize a revolt has begun and start maneuvering the plane violently. 

At 9:59 AM  The cockpit recorder captures sounds of a wounded hijacker outside the cockpit. Passengers and crew are now battering the cockpit door with a food cart.

At 10:01 AM  The hijacker pilot repeats "God in Great" several times and asks the other hijacker in the cockpit "shall we pull it down?" 

At this point the second hijacker appears to wrest control of the yoke from the main hijacker pilot who begins yelling "Give it to me!" repeatedly.

At 10:03 AM  Flight 93 plane accelerates, flips upside down, crests a hilltop and then crashes upside down into an empty field in Stonycreek Pennsylvania.

The crash site becomes a crime scene netting the FBI much of the critical evidence allowing for the 911 plot to be discovered.


The Memorial
Crescent of Embrace

A common field one day. A field of honor forever.

At the top of the hill portals composed of tall curving concrete walls frame the sky. 

 The Portals and the Final Flight Path

A walkway tracing the final route of Flight 93 slices through the portals culminating in an overlook of the crash site. Now, forever, a field of honor.

The Overlook


From the portals a large circular walk emerges a crescent of embrace, a walkway extending down into the bowl (passing 40 memorial groves along the way). The groves serve as living, growing tributes to the passengers and crew of Flight 93 whose lives were cut short.

At the Field of Honor individual white stone panels are each etched with only one name. Each panel is part of a whole, yet slightly separated from each other. 

Solidarity and individuality.

A Wall of Honor


The Price

The actual impact site is simply designated with a large boulder at the point of impact. It is ceremonially gated and made accessible only to family members of the victims.


 The Gates
(The boulder in the distance is the impact site) 

A final element completing the memorial is the Tower of Voices, with 40 chimes representing the last voices heard from the flight activated by the wind. 


The Memorial Architect's Quotes

How do you convey hope?
This project has changed me as an architect. 
It has deepened my resolve to value what we do.  
What we do as architects is unreasonable. 
We try to bring something positive through many barriers.
But, it is worth it.

Paul Murdoch AIA
Flight 93 Memorial Architect



Where do heroes come from?  


Here, in a field of honor, we know this is where one journey of heroes ended.

Visit and you will depart changed, having found tears you did not know you had.


Roadboy's Travels © 2016



PS I couldn't help but wonder why this memorial took so long to be built, and remains incomplete. 

It turns out this $60 million dollar memorial was held hostage for years by a tea party congressman who demanded that any Flight 93 memorial be cheaper and built primarily using private funds (despite nearly $7 million dollars - raised from private donations). 

The same congressman fully supported a $600 million dollar "Road to Nowhere". 

His story is here.