Wednesday, June 5, 2019

Grundtvig's Church

It is Official - I Have Fallen Madly in Love with Cøpenhagen! 

Today began with some practical information from the hotel concierge. I learned how to catch and pay for city buses. Google maps then took over and I ventured to the Bispebjerg District of Københaven to visit Grundtvigs Kirke (Church). 

Grundtvigs Kirke
The church is named for the Danish philosopher and hymn writer N.F.S. Grundtvig. The design for the church was secured in 1913 by Architect Peder Vilhelm Jensen-Klint who created a winning design.  The foundation stone however was not laid until 1921 after the close of World War I.  Construction then continued until 1940. Klint's son Kaare completed the final decade of work fro 1930 on.

Kaare Klint

5,000,000 yellow bricks were laid to comprise a church that is described as both Expressionist & Modern Gothic. The facade, framed by a city street, was to me quite startling. It looks like a 160' tall brick Church organ. I found the design to be a bit reminiscent of the forms later adopted by the fascists that would soon unleash terror on Europe.

Yet, after touring it, my initial impressions fell away and I now stand in awe. In its simplicity and it is nothing short of a one-of-kind masterwork.

There are two organs in the church. A smaller organ built in 1940 and designed by Kaare and a huge organ added in 1965 with a facade designed by Kaare's son Esben.  So this church was ultimately designed by three generations of Klint's.

Luckily the church was closed for the noon hour, so it coerced me to go explore the really wonderful Bispebjerg Cemetery across the street.

This cemetery is unlike any I've seen before. It truly felt like a well cared for park. And it was in full bloom.

 
I Love Lilacs
(some of the blooms in the cemetery) 

Now for some images and impressions of Grundtvig's Church.

The First Glimpse is Startling

The Church is the Centerpiece of an Entire
Neighborhood Designed by Klint 

 
Yet, When Framed in the Context of Nature
Its Severe Forms Seem to Rationalize

Inside it is Simple, Orderly and Dignified

 
The 1965 Pipe Organ
(Its Larger Pipes Each Weigh Nearly 1000 Lbs.)

Pipe Detail

                                            A Simple Candle Rack                                                  
(I loved the play of light and shadow)

No Stained Glass
(only two icons adorn the church -
a Danish looking Christ at crucifiction and a ship)

A Ship Floats Above Parishioners
(perfectly symbolism for a seafaring nation) 

 Even the Seating is Simple & Beautifully Crafted  
 
I returned to the hotel for snacks and a nap. Then I decided I needed to walk a bit. But first I had to inquire why there were (quite literally) thousands of people sunbathing, swimming and relaxing just outside my window on a Wednesday? The answer from the was that everyone was off in Denmark on June 5. It is Denmark's Constitution Day and Father's Day.

Getting very sleepy, so more about the balance of my day in tomorrow's post.

Roadboy's Travels © 2019

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