Wednesday, June 12, 2019

Hamlets Castle and on to Sweden!

Final Days in Copenhagen - On to Sweden!

Our final days in Copenhagen scorecard:
1. canal tour, 3 castles, 1 war museum, 20,000 steps per day, 1 foodie tour and a bunch of headgear.

Team Roadboy Team was on a roll.

First off the headgear. The Dane's are big on stuff on their head. I guess cause it is cold much of the year. I resisted the purchase of a nice Viking helmet.

 "Headgear" - Treasury Rosenborg Castle

"Headgear" - Danish War Museum 

 Headgear - Kronborg (Hamlet's Castle)

Some other treasures included the modern tapestries at Christiansborg Castle. This first Chrisiansborg caught on fire when a fireplace exhaust pipe caught fire. The intrepid Dane's built a new one. only to watch it also burn to the ground. So they built a second Christiansborg only to have it burn down, This one stymied the firefightes  down (fire that was complicated to fight because the firefighters could not keep up with the fire as it spread rapdily thats to the Castles labyrinth of secret passages. 

One of the features I loved in the present palace is its modern tapestries.

 Wonderful Modern Tapestries
(Christiansborg Castle)
(Note: Mao, JFK, Gandhi the Moon Landing)

After lots of museum walking we opted for a canal boat trip as a welcome chance to sit while sightseeing. It is a great way to view Copenhagen's spectacular Opera house. We also passed the Queen's Royal Yacht, the backside of Little Mermaid statue (I spared you a photo of Copnhagen's  biggest cliche) and then ventured on to the lovely canals of Christianhavn. 
 
Copenhagen's Dazzling Opera House 
(designed by the firm I am collaborating with in Minneapolis presently)

The highlight of Saturday evening was a private evening foodie walking tour in the wonderfully diverse and hip Vesterbro neighborhood. In this tour our guide Fiew from Foods of Copenhagen curated some of Copenhagen's best emerging Scandinavian cuisine. Our guide selected five stops along the way.

First stop was Ancestrale to taste small plates where they offered us vegetarian and seafood first plates (I had a marvelous salmon with carrot reduction) paired with natural wines. Second stop was Copenhagen's first designer porridge purveyor Grød where we picked up a savory summer pea, ricotta and lemon oil porridge. DAMN! Who knew porridge could be so good!  Third stop was family operated Holm Cider to taste Lystig and Benene pa Nakken ciders. Fourth stop was John's Hot Dog Deli (next to Warpigs) in Vesterbro's old meatpacking district. Here we enjoyed a massive Danish dog with some strong beer followed by a liquor chaser. Skøl! Last stop was pure delight. We finished at the fine dining greenhouse cafe Gemyse in Tivoli where we  enjoyed a creamy puff of ice cream set in a clear buttermilk sauce.

 Dessert at Gemyse with Fie

Fie's walking route included some amazing street art and the Central Hotel.   

Vesterbro Street Art

Along the way we passsed the Central Hotel. A local noted that every major city needs/has a "Central" hotel.  So he created one (literally) in Vesterbro. This hotel has only one small but amazing room. If you can afford the $378 / night. Located directly over a coffee bar and complete with a free I-phone and two bicycles to use for your visit, this truly is the best place to stay in the city.

 The Central Hotel
(The adjacent artwork was created by a local artist in celebration of stay-at-home dads)

Sunday morning it was time to meet our cycling guides and depart Copenhagen. Laura came to assemble us for our tour and escort us to Kronborg (immortalized by Shakespeare as "Hamlets Castle") in Helsingor, Denmark. This castle is strategically located on an island to enable Denmark's Kings to tax all ships requiring passing to / from the Baltic Sea. His rule was simple tell me honestly what you have (for customs). The honor system was backed up with a simple rule.  The king reserved the right to "purchase" your cargo for the value you declared.
 
After our castle tour we met our guides, Milan and Bodhi for a ferry passage to the other across the channel from Helsingor Denmark to Heslingorg Sweden. There we had a bike fitting and clinic and officially began our cycling trip.

Bicycling Begins
(bicycles were presented as design icons at Copenhagen's Design Museum) 
Roadboy's Travels © 2019

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