After two days cycling north and south from Helsingborg we took a shuttle north to cycle a few miles of the Gota Canal.
Along the way we made a stop at a candy cane factory. The variety of hard candy was pretty amazing. Suddenly we all became 6 years old.
Endless Candy Canes
The Gota Canal was the largest engineering project in Sweden of its era. It created a 381 mile system linking 21 lakes through the use of 58 locks. The canal began in 1810 and took 22 years to complete. However, upon completion, it was rendered almost immediately obsolete for commerce due to the simultaneous development of an efficient rail network.
As a result the Gota has always been used primarily to provide pleasure craft access to the Baltic Sea. Sadly for us, Wednesday was filled with rain, so we were unable to ride and had to settle for viewing the canal in transit to Stockholm.
As a result the Gota has always been used primarily to provide pleasure craft access to the Baltic Sea. Sadly for us, Wednesday was filled with rain, so we were unable to ride and had to settle for viewing the canal in transit to Stockholm.
One of the Gota's 58 Locks
In Stockholm, after settling into our waterfront hotel, we learned about the myriad of transportation options available. The City is comprised of an archipelago and islands so it uses a complex transportation network of ferry's, subway, buses and trams.
City planners have incorporated a wonderful network of separated bike lanes throughout the city. Much like Copenhagen and Amsterdam, bikes and electric rideshare scooters travel in a lane set apart from pedestrian sidewalks and automobile roadways.
City planners have incorporated a wonderful network of separated bike lanes throughout the city. Much like Copenhagen and Amsterdam, bikes and electric rideshare scooters travel in a lane set apart from pedestrian sidewalks and automobile roadways.
Cyclists Use Separate Lanes
(cycling past a magnificent collection of wooden boats)
(cycling past a magnificent collection of wooden boats)
Thursday morning the weather forecast called for a mixed bag of medium to heavy rain followed by clouds. Nonetheless, we stretched shower caps over our bike helmets and set out on an urban ride to explore the city. First stop was Long Island. This island is Stockholm's Alcatraz and served as a prison for 250 years. Now Langholman Prison has been repurposed into a unique (and ideally located) hotel and hostel. Hotel rooms were created from the old jail cells.
Langholman "Prison" Hotel
After departing the island we crossed one of Stockholm's largest bridges into the central city. While crossing the forbidding clouds exploded in a massive thunder, lightning and rain storm. This prompted a quick detour to seek shelter in the courtyard of Stockholm's City Hall.
Setting out Just Before the Deluge
After waiting out the downpour we continued on to Stockholm's old town called Gamla Stan. Along the way we cycled to the Royal palace for the changing of the guards.
After lunch we biked past the Grand Hotel where former president and Mrs. Obama, the president of South Korea, and a host of global dignitaries were assembled for Sweden's "Brilliant Minds" conference.
With the dignitaries present we had to zig zag through lots of security details on our way to cross the bridge to Kungliga Djurgarden. This is Stockholm's pleasure island. It houses an amusement park, museums (Nordic, Vasa, Viking and Abba), historical monuments and the Skansen open-air museum. Since the rain had stopped we went on to enjoy 40 minutes of riding and circumnavigated the island.
That evening we explored Stockholm's remarkable Fotografiska (photograph) museum. This is one of four Fotografiska's (others are located in London, New York and Talinn).
Stockholm's Fotografiska is famous for both its exhibits and its restaurant. It popularity keeps it open late (it was open until 1:00 am the night we visited).
When we arrived at Fotografiska's restaurant we found it was booked for the entire evening so we tried its less formal cafe. It also turned out to be excellent. There were three major exhibits in place (which is about 1/2 of the museum. A new exhibit "Memoria" by James Nachtway was being set up and would open just a few days after we left. The balance of the museum featured three exhibits. The first we viewed was Mandy Baker's beautiful, yet terrifying, photo essay comprised of ocean artifacts from pollution. She said when she tried to garner interest in increasing pollution in our oceans, interest waned. When she created visually appealing photos of the waste, people were drawn to them. Then they'd read the descriptions and come to appreciate the meaning behind the photos.
With the dignitaries present we had to zig zag through lots of security details on our way to cross the bridge to Kungliga Djurgarden. This is Stockholm's pleasure island. It houses an amusement park, museums (Nordic, Vasa, Viking and Abba), historical monuments and the Skansen open-air museum. Since the rain had stopped we went on to enjoy 40 minutes of riding and circumnavigated the island.
That evening we explored Stockholm's remarkable Fotografiska (photograph) museum. This is one of four Fotografiska's (others are located in London, New York and Talinn).
Stockholm's Fotografiska is famous for both its exhibits and its restaurant. It popularity keeps it open late (it was open until 1:00 am the night we visited).
When we arrived at Fotografiska's restaurant we found it was booked for the entire evening so we tried its less formal cafe. It also turned out to be excellent. There were three major exhibits in place (which is about 1/2 of the museum. A new exhibit "Memoria" by James Nachtway was being set up and would open just a few days after we left. The balance of the museum featured three exhibits. The first we viewed was Mandy Baker's beautiful, yet terrifying, photo essay comprised of ocean artifacts from pollution. She said when she tried to garner interest in increasing pollution in our oceans, interest waned. When she created visually appealing photos of the waste, people were drawn to them. Then they'd read the descriptions and come to appreciate the meaning behind the photos.
Beauty Followed by the Disturbing Reality of the Scene
(Sea Pollution)
The next exhibit was the "Light Within" portraiture of Vincent Peters. I found it dazzling. Peter's photos felt like they allowed the viewer to see into the very soul of his famous subjects.
Charlize Theron
David Beckham
(2001 - before all of his skin art)
The last exhibit "Vanishing Traces" by the Dutch photographer Scarlett Hooft Graafland seemed to seamlessly blend fantasy with reality.
Dunes Like You
After a day of tempestuous weather, the sunset was spectacular.
Sunset Over Djurgarden
Friday was our final day of riding and we began it with an early ferry ride to Lovon Island. The morning had a few lingering overcast skies, but those melted into brilliant sunshine which held for the rest of our visit in Stockholm. On Lovon Island we cycled a 30 mile loop through its villages, lush pastures and idyllic farmlands. We all agreed it was our best day of cycling and a picture perfect way to close the cycling part of our trip.
A Village on Lovon Island
Lovon's Fields Ablaze
Wrapping up the Ride
On the Return Ferry to Stockholm
Friday
night concluded with cyclists in our farewell dinner. Happily, we still had two additional free days to explore Stockholm before departing for
Helsinki. And explore we did.
Saturday's highlights was Stockholm's amazing Vasa Museum. But first, it was off to the Medelhavet Antiquities museum where we had a great lunch (cherkessian chicken stirfry with walnuts - seated among the relics). We walked to Brod and Salt for a cardamon bun and a visit to see the (very ornate) royal coaches.
Saturday's highlights was Stockholm's amazing Vasa Museum. But first, it was off to the Medelhavet Antiquities museum where we had a great lunch (cherkessian chicken stirfry with walnuts - seated among the relics). We walked to Brod and Salt for a cardamon bun and a visit to see the (very ornate) royal coaches.
Cardamon Buns
Symbolic Masts Above the Roof of the Vasa
OK, The Vasa Museum. This museum dramatically chronicles the discovery, research and eventual raising of the Vasa. The ship was launched on its maiden voyage August 10, 1628. It sailed about 1300 m before sanking due to poor design (hill was too narrow and lacking in ballast).
The sunken ship remained in its brackish water grave until the 1950's when it was once again discovered. After an assessment the decision was made to raise it for research. Salvage and raising the ship produced a treasure trove of artifacts as well as the remains of 15 victims from its crew of 450.
This museum is not to be missed.
Inside the Vasa Museum
Next we visited the royal coach display in the palace. We'd hoped to see the royal armoury too, but that was destined to reopen the following Monday after a multi-million dollar renovation.
The Crown Prince's Coach
After a return to the hotel we enjoyed a dinner at waters edge and came to realize our time in Stockholm was just about complete. Sunday, I caught an overnight ferry (enjoying the midnight sun) to Helsinki.
Roadboy's Travels © 2019
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